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In 2002 Camry got a new seris engine, and you got it, the 2AZ engine. The water leak is a good issue to watch It is hard to see any leaks since you have a big catch pan under the engine
Too bad you don't do your own maintenance but a mechanic should remove this panel in about two minutes and look for trails of Antifreeze on the bottom of the engine. He would be looking at the hoses mentioned in past post as well as the Timing Chain area because this is where the Water Pump is located.
The water pump is much harder to remove. It is under the timing chain. However the trail of or stain of water will be visible under the crankshaft pulley if the Water Pump is leaking. The Antifreeze will collect in the engine under the timing chain cover, and stink up your engine. It will eventually evaporate or leak on to the ground or on to the panel that covers the bottom of the engine, Very hard to catch.You have to be under the car with a light and the bottom panel removed.
Try and impress your mechanic and mention the 2AZ numbers and letters when referring to engine size. This is common jargon when talking about Toyota engines. Oh yea its a 2.4 , as in 2.4 liter, and a straight 4 cylinder engine, 4 spark plugs.It replaced the 2.2 engine much smaller. Now you are viewed as knowledgeable about Toyota's when around the shop.
Chain is lifetime.
You can't tell by looking at the vehicle, it's internal to the engine.
It's the little icon, that looks like a gravy laddle, that is dripping.
For a 2000, the oil is 5w30
It will get you everytime .
It's got to be pushed down and twisted like a child safety cap to get off. It can be trouble to get on sometimes unless you push down hard and twist Then you turn it one time more without pressure and it locks in place.
I have Camry 2000 4 Cyl. The car has been well maintained - Oil change every 3K Miles. Mileage has been about 75K however the timing belt has not been changed.
Today while driving on Freeway at 60MPH, the engine rattled, smoked and then more rattle and more smoke. Engine lost complete power. Managed to Pull over on the side and got it towed. The tow truck driver took a quick look and stated the shaft (rod?) has pierced the oil pan and lots of oil was leaking.
a) What would cause this kind of catastrophic eng. failure? ( the roads were clean, I did not hit anything on the road.) Would timing belt breakage cause this?
b)Would this kind of failure be covered under engine / power train warranty from Toyota?
c) What would be needed to replace the engine?
d) typical cost of engine repair: parts and labor?
e) Would this be covered by insurance?
f) If not repair, then ??
Any inputs are very much appreciated.
We should be a little cautious here of knowing exactly what the problem is. I have no idea what 'shaft' he might be talking about. A 'rod', if it is a connecting rod, is indeed a major problem. A connecting rod connects the piston (which goes up and down), to the crankshaft, (which which turns around and around). If a rod breaks then the one piston stops moving, and the engine trys to run on 3 of the 4 pistons. Depending upon where a connecting rod broke, the piece that is still connected to the crankshaft can spin around (since the crankshaft is still turning), and starts poking things. It can scracth a bunch of stuff up, send metal parts flying around, and poke thru the bottom oil pan draining your oil and causing other engine failure. It's a major heart attack!
This would not be covered under insurance.
This would be covered under warrranty (or extended warranty), if you were withing the mileage and #years, which you are not. If you have had all of the maintenance done at the dealership you might try asking if Toyota would pick up a portion of the cost, it's a very long shot but worth a try to ask. This is (most likely) a multiple thousands of dollars fix (if it really was a connecting rod, and it really did break thru the exterior of the engine).
If the engine continued to try and run after this problem, then your timing belt is not the cause. If the belt broke, then the engine would die immediately. Also if the belt broke, you would potentially bend valves not break a crank. I don't think the timing belt had anything to do with causing your problem.
I think your options will be to junk the vehicle, or pay to have a replacement engine put into it.
Misread the part.
Check the tightness on the oil drain bolt, or see if it is still there before you take it back to the oil change place. The oil could have been slowly leaking out or suddenly drained out, and in that case, engine failure is only minutes away. A disassembling of the engine could reveal more light on the way it failed. The oil filter loose, the oil pump failed.
I think you misread his post. He didn't indicate that he recently had an oil change which caused the engine problem. He indicated that he has always had oil changes done on scheduled time.
Thanks for reply. This is was not recent oil change issue. hi Kiawah, I could not believe it either, but during the tow when the car was lifted up what appeared to me was something like end of the piston , however I am no engine expert.
I am wondering If it is worth fixing - replacing the engine or would I need to junk the car? I am not sure what else could have been damaged with the engine block with this kind of a damage - transmission, electronics?
Do you have any ideas on how replacing the motor mounts could cause the car to stall when putting it in drive? My son says the engine shakes after it stalls.
Thanks.
Sandy
Have been told it could be crank sensor or the "module". Tested crank sensor & module - both test good. Any other suggestions/testing/troubleshooting anyone can suggest would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Dave
Is this really all one piece or can you buy the seal separately?
Thanks!
Is yours a four cylinder? Four's are easy to change, The mount on the front on the block, comes right out. Also there is another mount on the topside, but easy to change. It's like changing your Air Filter. The mechanic would only need to remove the mount itself.
At any rate the Toyotal engine swap for that car would be the easiest way to get it back on the road. First I would find out if this engine has some bad history the 2002 Camry has a different engine design better design but gonna be harder to find at a salvage yard.
I swapped another Corolla engine into my 87 Corolla. I never took any parts off the "new" block, I just bolted the engine in and put on new water pump and the old manifolds. I didn't buy one gasket. The new engine had 79K miles compared to my old engine with 250K.
A good Toyota shop will keep the parts off your old engine to make sure it works with a new engine. This engine could be a re-manufactured block with cylinder head attached, and no valve cover, or simply one pulled out of a wrecked, or older Camry.
Your four cylinder is a 5S used in 1996-2001. Plenty of these in salvage yards. I paid $150 for my salvage engine. It was stripped of everything and only included the block, heads, valve cover, flywheel, and crankshaft pulley.
Your coil should be on the fender well, it needs to have some volts on the small wires. Leave the key on for a few seconds and check the voltage there. The ignitor is under the coil, and it could be bad.They go bad if key is left on for 20 minutes or so.
Distributor has some circuits but I would have to check a wire diagram to see how it is wired.
I have replaced the clutch relay under the hood on the drivers side but that has not fixed the problem. Is there another realy somewhere that I should be checking or change?
The only way I can get the A/C to work again is to pull over and turn the car off and on again.
You should look at it beforehand, to understand the difference. Run the engine with the a/c turned off to see how it looks, and then have someone turn the a/c on so you see the clutch engage and the compressor turns.
Can you also indicate whether the a/c compressor cycles on and off by itself, when the engine is running at about 2K rpm.
It should be cycling on and off.
Things we know/suspect at this point....
- Your system is cycling at 2K, which tells me that the compressor is able to pull down a vacuum low enough that it turns the compressor off (so low pressure switch is working, compressor is working, compressor relay is working), and it also tells me that the freon level is not overcharged. You also indicate it's cold when running, so freon level seems like it's not to much, and not too little, so that's goodness.
- The fans are turning on, so that tells me the temp switch appears to be working, the relays and fans themselves are working.
- You indicated that when idling and the compressor kicks in, the idle speed increases, so we know the idle up VSV is working and EFI main relay are working.
There's a couple things left which would be hard to figure out are working or not via the internet. There is a revolution detecting sensor on the compressor, which is used to verify that the compressor is turning and how fast it is turning (so it doesn't overspin). This sensor might be bad, or the wiring to the sensor is bad. There is also an A/C amplifier used for control, and the ECM computer.
The symptom that you mention that when you have this problem, you turn the engine off, and then back on and it works correctly, points me to an electronic control issue, which may be intermittent. Some error condition is getting set after a while of running, which turns on the error light and turns the system off. You turn off the vehicle, error condition is reset, and doesn't immediately return.
Other than the compressor sensor, I think you're going to need to get this to the dealer to trouble shoot further. Having a dependable failure is most helpful for the dealer to actually see the failing condition.
I just have not had much luck at dealerships and sometimes they are not trust worthy. It could be something as simplistic as a sensor and they might want to charge me to redo the entire system.
Thanks again for your help.
You'd probably be hit or miss at a general A/C shop as to whether they know the Camry specifics.
Good luck.
I just purchased a 2006 Camry LE and came from a 200 Olds Intrigue. One of the issues that many Intrigue owners complained about was the A/C cycling on and off. it was caused by a bad control unit. replacing the unit fixed the problem. Since all else seems to be working with regarding to the AC system, maybe the control unit itself is the problem.
The coolant in the radiator is boiling and filled up the reservoir which then causes an overflow when the engine is hot. Is this really normal?
Kenny
I'd suspect your cooling fans first though.
Any opinions? What should I be looking for the cost on an engine with less than 100k miles vs oil for life.
I love my car, bought it with 9 miles on the odometer, kept up on all scheduled maintenance.
Thanks for any and all advice
Is the engine running okay, but just burning oil and smoking out the back? Or are you running on 3 of the 4 cylinders and the engine is making a clacking racket?
Is taking the engine apart going to cost as much as a used engine with low miles?
Thanks for your help.
Can you check to see if your brake light bulbs in the rear are operating correctly. You may have a bulb out.
Thanks,
Chris