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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rad8errad8er Member Posts: 3
    The a/c fan motor of my 03 xle just started 'roaring'. It is running fine, but the increaed volume instead of whisper quiet is annoying. I have changed the interior filter but the noise appears to emanate from the vent above the filter housing. Is it possible that the motor is on its way out? It does not squall as though a bearing is bad.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Are you talking about the fan inside the passenger compartment, or the fan on the radiator?
  • rad8errad8er Member Posts: 3
    Its the passenger compartment fan. In thinking about it, I could not help but notice that the vent does not have a plenum over the vent that would muffle fan noise.
  • aub789aub789 Member Posts: 19
    I have an 01 Camry (165,000 miles) that thankfully just passed emission inspection 10 days ago. Three days later check engine light comes on; a trip to Autozone reveals codes p0440, p0441, p0446, and p0420. I make plans to take it to an indy shop on Monday, but over the weekend the light turns itself off. I take it to the shop anyway, and the mechanic runs the codes again and we find that the first 3 codes still register (even with light off), but the fourth ("catalyst efficiency below threshold") p0420 no longer registers. The car runs fine. I'm now holding off doing anything further; those first 3 codes all have to do with emissions. Am I doing any harm to the vehicle by sitting tight on this? Thanks for your thoughts.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    If the squirrel cage blower motor does not change speed, then check for defective blower motor control (transitorized heat sink device down in the plenum).
  • rad8errad8er Member Posts: 3
    Good news to pass along. I went to Local Dealer and they discovered trash had fallen inside the fan cage when the filter was replaced. Since we also paid for other service, it was N/C for the check and removal of the trash. Its fixed! thanks for offering assistance.
  • fredvhfredvh Member Posts: 857
    Can someone tell me the diameter size (mm) of the Camry 3.3 V6 engine oil filter?
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    :shades: Toyota owners manual states that sparkplugs should be replaced at the 35000 to 40000 mi interval. This seems a bit soon to me but maybe not. Car is driven carefully and has 37000 mi. The gd plugs cost $40. Thanks in advance.
  • sylviahsylviah Member Posts: 7
    We got a 1990 Toyota Camry 4 cyl, replaced the Battery and the Alternator and the Fuel Filter. Car was driving great over the weekend :-) Today took her out for a ride and it was good then she stalled out at light. Restarted after several tries and then drove for another 2 miles. Parked the car and then 30 minutes later tried to restart and she wouldn't - after several tries she finally started and there was a real bad fuel smell. Now we just started her and everything was fine. Any ideas what it could be! Fuel Filter is on tight and there are no visible leaks. Please help!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    When is the last time it had a tune up?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    I thought the spark plugs were good for 120,000 miles. I have a 2004 with almost 78K miles and haven't touched the plugs.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Yes, I sprayed cleaner on my rims and wiped off the dirt and something have gotten to place it was not suppose to on my rear wheels and now the brakes squeal when I hit them. Is this something a non mechanic type like me can lubricate...ie can I spray some lubricant in there and if so where?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Isn't your Camry an LE model older than 2005? If so, these have rear drum brakes, and there's really no way something can get inside the drums.

    Are you sure the front brakes aren't squealing?
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Yes, drums..maybe it from the front...anything I can do....not sure why I assumed rear but I did clean all 4 rims...
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    oh yea, its a 2002...
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Have you ever replaced the front brake pads? Maybe it's time, and you're hearing the warning squeal from the thin metal strip designed for that purpose.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    Yes, pads have been replaced twice in 88K miles and was just recently inspected. This happened as soon as I was done cleaning the rims. I figure the cleaner dried something it it should not have or dirt got in there. So, is there a place to spray some lube, should I got to the car wash and spray soap and water in there...other ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    No, don't go spraying lubricant, or any other thin like cleaner, on your braking system.

    Take it to a mechanic, who can give you a technical assessment as to what might be wrong.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    ok, thanks!
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Member Posts: 934
    When I step on the brake pedal on my 02 camry I hear a squeak. The car need no even be turned on. It sound like it comes from out side the car. Ideas. Is this a problem or just an annoyance?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Have your brakes on all four wheels checked. I would suspect it might be coming from the rear drum brakes.
  • kfields2kfields2 Member Posts: 1
    i have a new radiator, fans work w/no prob, ( at first they didnt but i found out i had a power steeing prob w/ hole in my line and that caused my fans not to work, and was crazy to me cuz iv never heard of radiator fans workin from power steering ) so fans work great, took out thermostat , and water pump works fine , all hoses are ok , what else coud it be....... plz help
  • sandbtwnmytoessandbtwnmytoes Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I have a 2003 Toyota Camry XLE V6 with 130,000 miles. About 1 1/2 weeks ago, I started the car in the morning after it had sat overnight, and when first accelerating, noticed that the engine revved at a much higher pitch. The noise was not out of the ordinary just a higher pitch. The car seemed to want to hesitate, but would go forward with a bit more gas than normal. The tach registered normal as driving.
    I noticed that it took about 5 to 10 minutes for the temperature gauge to warm up to its normal range. Once the temperature was normal, the problems ceased and the car was fine. No CEL, no odd noises, no hesitancy.... Took to first repair shop who didn't see anything out of the ordinary. If I started the car up to go out for lunch or in the evening going home from work, everything was fine. Problem was only in am when car had been sitting overnight.

    Couple of days later, CEL came on, and car started to hesitate. Repair shop #2 reported a trans error code, but said it was unusual for # miles and age of car. Tran fluid was clear and they said otherwise car was in good shape (well maintained).
    While driving to dealer for opinion #3, car suddenly would not go in to gear, and now not driveable.
    Any ideas on issue, is it failure of transmission, or something else that lead to tran problem?
    Appreciate any reccos on fixing vs. getting new car. I bought Toyota with high expectations of getting to at least 150k.
    Thanks!
  • shortstack1825shortstack1825 Member Posts: 1
    a few weeks ago my car stopped blowing air out of the vents. I was told it was the blower motor. It was not replaced. About a week later it started working again. It would work off and on. It would work when I first started the car, but would crap out once the car warmed up. It did that for a few days. I was told it was the blower motor resistor. I replaced it and it wasn't the problem. I can't find a mechanic that can tell me what the problem is. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited August 2011
    Put a voltmeter on the blower motor, and then the resistor bank, under the different dash switch positions to figure out whether the problem is blower motor, resistor bank, dash switches, one of the fuses, or main power.

    You can't guess over the internet, a mechanic with hands on meter should diagnose the problem very quickly.

    When the mechanic told you a blower motor before, did he diagnose the problem or was that only a guess? If he diagnosed it, why wasn't it replaced...and you are still messing around with this problem?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
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  • askn4urhelpaskn4urhelp Member Posts: 1
    I had the 3rd spark plug, from the left if facing engine pop out. I have a 94' camry, 4 cylinder engine w/ 204,000 miles. I know nothing about cars and have not a clue how or what caused this. I am hoping it vibrated loose over time? I purchased a spar plug wire set. While screwing in the first new spark plug I noticed I wouldn't seem to get the spark plug to fully tighten. It definitely screwed in, just never got it to a lock tight position. The little rubber washer in the spark plug socket popped out before I tried to insert it. I put it back in but don't know if I did that correctly. So, when I went to pull the socket wrench/ attachment, I noticed the socket part stayed on the spark plug. I can't just pull it off because its recessed down into the engine in this model. Could the internal threads be stripped or did I not install the plug the correct way? How do I remove this socket? Could I use a strong magnet on the end of the socket wrench or is that ridiculous? Lastly, am I supposed to unhook one of the battery terminals prior to this?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited September 2011
    The battery does not have to be disconnected when working on the spark plugs. It is not uncommon for an extension bar to disconnect from a spark plug socket while pulling out the tools. The solution is to use a strong pair of needle nose pliers to reach in and grab the socket. I say "strong pair" because needle nose pliers come in a variety of configurations; ranging from delicate and precise, to beefy and tough. The best quality needle nose pliers are made by Crescent, Proto, Craftsman, Stanley, S&K, and Snap On. But a well made off brand tool will also work. It is also possible to find extra long nose needle nose pliers; which are typically stronger and work even better for this particular task. They are not as common; but they are available. Once the pliers grip the socket (with one leg inserted into the square opening in the socket, and the other leg on the outside of the socket); the socket can then be pulled off the plug. But it might require a bit of rocking to persuade it to come loose.

    If the rubber insert was not inserted all the way into the socket; it could have prevented the socket from sliding far enough down onto the plug to engage with the matching hexagonal male part on the spark plug. When this happens; the plug will only be turned by the friction of the rubber insert against the porcelain insulator; and that friction is not strong enough to transfer the force needed to tighten the plug. So when the plug gets to the point where it just begins to tighten; the socket will start to slip. If you just pull the socket off the plug at that point, and do not tighten it fully; the plug will eventually pop out.

    Once you get the socket out; look at the open end of the socket and find the hexagonal recess. Then look at a plug and find the male hexagonal part. Now slide the socket onto a plug while it is in front of you, and watch how far on the socket must be moved before the two hexagons mate. There is a subtly different feel to turning a plug on which the hexes are meshed, compared to one which is not meshed and is just being turned by friction of the insert. In time; this will become second nature.

    This is the way to become skilled at this craft; by closely examining the parts which are involved, and learning what issues could arise and how to deal with them.

    Of course; the other thing you could do, without buying any more tools, would be to re-insert the extension bar into the socket, unscrew the plug, remove the socket from the plug and press the insert into the socket until it is in as far as it can go, place the socket correctly on the plug, and then install the plug again.

    But a loosely fitting extension bar and/or a loosely machined socket will repeatedly disconnect when removing the tools. The professional way to install spark plugs is to use a high quality extension bar, and a spark plug socket with a magnetic insert. These sockets are sold by SnapOn tool dealers (listed in the white pages of your phone book); and might also be available from Mac tool dealers or from a parts store like NAPA, which sells to professional mechanics. They cost substantially more than the sockets with rubber inserts; but they are far less likely to cause the hassles you experienced. However; the magnetic inserts are vulnerable to breaking if the sockets have force put on them when they are not straight on the plug; and they are not always strong enough to hold a plug in place. But once you become used to them, they are much easier to work with. And SnapOn tools are guaranteed for life.

    Spark plugs can vibrate loose and blow out, if they are not properly tightened when installed. This usually does not damage the threads; but in some cases it might. However; there is a balance which must be struck in tightening spark plugs: Your Camry (along with most other recent imports and many domestic cars) has aluminum cylinder heads. The spark plug threads in aluminum heads can be damaged by over-tightening spark plugs. So plugs that are not tightened firmly enough; or plugs that are tightened too vigorously will BOTH cause problems.

    It is not that difficult to learn to tighten plugs properly. New plugs for this motor come with a metal gasket on the threaded part. (Autolite plugs used to have the gaskets fall off when the plug was turned with the threads pointing down; so care must be exercised with that brand; but many recent Autolites have their gaskets held in place by the threads; like every other brand.) Plugs with a new gasket will compress the gasket when the plug begins to tighten; this will create a "squeezing" sensation when tightening; in which the plug will turn the last 1/2 to 3/4 turn with a slightly stronger pressure required, but there will be little change in pressure needed during that period. There will be a sudden increase in resistance when the plug actually reaches bottom. That is when to stop turning.

    When reinstalling a used plug; the gasket will not compress during tightening; so the stopping point will be reached more abruptly.

    People who work at oil change places, and new mechanics, often seem to be overly fearful of damaging threads; so they don't fully tighten oil drain plugs or spark plugs. Unfortunately; the consequences of not tightening an oil drain plug often result in the plug vibrating out and the oil all running out on the ground; which frequently destroys the engine. If a spark plug pops out due to not being properly tightened; it can cause a fire if it happens while the motor is running. So the exaggerated fear of damaging threads; along with similarly exaggerated fears of foreigners and terrorism, are ruining people's cars and also ruining our political system.

    The solution to both of these problems is not to become tyrannized by or obsessed with fears; but rather to develop common sense and learn how to work skillfully, become educated about how to do things right, develop balance between extremes, learn to trust your intuition, and make objective decisions.

    There are two different types of spark plugs in use today; some have a flat seat and a gasket on the threads; but others have a tapered seat and do not come with a gasket. These two types of plugs are not interchangeable; they are designed for different types of engines. But sometimes people put the wrong type of plug in an engine; which often leads to the plug coming loose. It is very important to use the right spark plug in an engine. There are literally dozens of different plug variations which all look pretty much the same; but which would not be thermally suitable for your engine. So do not select spark plugs without looking up the recommendation for your car in the catalog published by the manufacturer of the brand you intend to use. It is not uncommon that the plug now in your motor is the wrong one; so don't risk blindly repeating someone else's mistake.
  • miggy2muchmiggy2much Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2011
    remove plug and socket ,separate the two ,remove rubber inside socket ,,use a lite duty magnet to drop plug back in.use rubber to remove the plug
    as far as plug popping out must be that ur using wrong plug but if ur striped out go wit some Teflon ??
  • topgun88topgun88 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    im having this problem with my camry where it will crank but not turn on. I noticed yesterday when i would accelerate car, it felt like it was stalling a bit it kind of felt like it was missfiring actually. And this morning it turned on fine and when i was at a light i pressed gas to take off on green, and the car felt like it ran out of gas and shut off on me. I cranked and cranked and nothing. i did notice the smell of gas when i was cranking coming from the exhaust.
    I did have a similar problem over a year ago and i couldnt find no solution to it. i just left car in drive way for over 2 weeks then i tried it and it turned on and worked fine till this morning. has anyone had this problem? or does anyone know what the problem could be?
  • topgun88topgun88 Member Posts: 2
  • seattletwodogsseattletwodogs Member Posts: 15
    2001 Camry XLE with 11,000 miles.

    Inside passenger door handle suddenly wouldn't open door which can be opened from outside.

    Door locks are fine.

    Would appreciate thoughts about cause of problem and potential repair cost.
  • adamw812adamw812 Member Posts: 32
    Check the Child Proof rear door lock switch should be located near the latch on the door
  • seattletwodogsseattletwodogs Member Posts: 15
    The rear door lock switch is working. I can hear it and watch all door locks move as I flick the switch on the driver's arm rest.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    take it apart. Most likely internal door handle piece made from plastic got cracked because someone applied excessive force opening the door.
  • adamw812adamw812 Member Posts: 32
    Check in your owner's manual for child proof rear door lock switch, I was not speaking of the door lock plunger but a switch near the latch assemble in the door frame itself
  • seattletwodogsseattletwodogs Member Posts: 15
    Repair completed for $50 at local body shop.

    Toyota dealership and Firestone both wanted around $200 for parts and labor.
  • luckysevenluckyseven Member Posts: 134
    what did they fix?
  • seattletwodogsseattletwodogs Member Posts: 15
    It was not the handle that was broken. The body shop owner removed the inside door panel and where there should have been two metal rods attached to two pieces of plastic, he found that one of the plastic pieces was broken and the rod was hanging down loose. Somehow he fashioned a piece of plastic and along with a plastic tie reattached the rod.

    He commented that usually it's the door handle itself that breaks. I now have a spare handle should I ever need it and am quite satisfied, especially after getting two quotes in the $200 range.
  • gmable42gmable42 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Camry I bought a new starter for it I've been having problem with I changed the battery, posts, and then the starter. It started fine after I replaced it but the next day I got a tick tick sound like it makes when the starter goes out. I don't know what else to do I was sure it was the starter the original one did the same thing I tapped it with a hammer and it worked, it didn't work with the new one. HELP!!!!!!
  • cochran1981cochran1981 Member Posts: 1
    Just in case someone needs to do this: kiawah is correct. the flasher is a black square box located amongst a bunch of wires in a white plastic reservoir behind the left kickpanel. once you have located the piece, use a flathead screwdriver to wedge into the center reservoir for leverage and feel around til you find a groove. the groove on the plastic flasher is on the bottom. pull it downwards and wiggle the piece til it comes out. replace with new flasher. i would also recommend disconnecting the negative terminal of your battery for safety purposes.
  • er12883er12883 Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys, I have a 1998 Camry LE V6 coming up on 130k miles. I bought it with 60k miles on it abt 5yrs ago. It still runs great, and has received regular oil changes and had normal minor issues for an older car (rack and pinion replacement, and a false positive intermittent check engine light are the only notable things). I regularly get 28+ mpg on my regular commute (mixed hwy/city with more going and less stopping). I've been weighing the options of holding onto it vs getting rid of it before things break down, and have decided to take the time to do a thorough tune up and maintain it and see how long it will last. I feel confident doing the work, I have the proper tools, garage space, manuals, and in my previous cars I kept an old Chevy Corsica running past 200k miles, and rebuilt an old ford four-banger. I'm going to have time this summer and a backup car, so that won't be an issue.

    My question for you guys is while I have everything apart, what else should I do at the same time? On my to do list so far are:
    Oil and filter change
    Timing belt
    Water pump
    Tensioner and pulleys if needed
    Possibly oil seals
    Air filter
    Sparks and wires
    Belts and radiator hoses
    Flush/fill radiator

    While I've got it up, I'm checking brakes, inspect brake lines, get new tires put on the wheels, and I might get a second set of wheels with snow tires on them (in Colorado), not sure if I want to drop the cash for that though. The things I have not dorked with in the past are anything to do with suspension or tranny. I feel fine changing out the tranny fluid which I might do.

    Things I've never done before:
    Steering and suspension or anything tranny related. Is there anything I should be looking out for here? I am okay doing the work myself if I know what to look out for. Anything I missed on here or anything that would be weird on this car or pitfalls I might run into? Thanks!
  • erikap1012erikap1012 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone....yesterday my 97 Camry with 184,000 miles just completely died while sitting in traffic ....all lights came on. Could not get restarted. When trying to restart, engine cranks but no spark. It's not the battery as it will turn over several time. I had no problems prior to this and no indication while driving that anything was wrong. Kinda came out of nowhere. I had it towed as I was forced to get out of the traffic! Any ideas before I take it somewhere for diagnosis?

    Thanks!
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Can't belive no response, by now I'm sure the mechanic told you the timing belt broke.

    Just my guess, I hope you can follow up with the problem. I'm interested in learning more when folks get on here with some car problems.

    This is a good site to get good info if folks follow up with the solutions.

    Thanks
  • lookingnewcarlookingnewcar Member Posts: 7
    We have a 98 with 133,000 miles, it's been a great car.

    This past week it started overheating out of the blue early one a.m. Pulled over and stopped immediately and had it towed into a Toyota dealer.

    They're saying it needs a new water pump/timing belt - what we expected, at $845ish BUT also needs a heater core replacement $855 as well as a few other things that can wait, we were told these two repairs were necessary to get the car running again.

    Anyone have any info on the heater core replacement? We're not sure if it's time to look into a new Camry vs. putting more money into this one.
  • c5t4rc5t4r Member Posts: 13
    edited May 2012
    We have a '97 CaMry 4 cyl with 170K on it. Yes, assuming the car is otherwise sound, its worth fixing..

    What is the actual problem? I doubt you suffered a catastrophic failure of the pump and core at the same time. Is your carpet wet? Do you smell the sweet smell of antifreeze? If not, the core probably doesn't have to be changed to get back on the road.

    I would suggest getting a 2nd opinion on pricing for a car this old because, IMO, the dealer is best used when the car is under warranty and you don't want to void it. Just call around as both prices seem a bit high.

    The heater core on these models are among the easiest to change out. Don't let them tell you they have to tear the dash apart. The core sits behind a little panel on the drivers side near the accelerator. You'll have to pull the carpet back. For an experienced person its a 2-3 hr job at most. They will already have drained the coolant to do the water pump. $855 is way out of line. I paid $400 a couple years ago when I was traveling and time was an issue. I also helped my neighbor change out his garage in a couple hours. His cost was about $125 and a few beverages.

    Take a look at a haynes or chilton manual to get an idea of what they have to do. But again, I'd be getting another estimate or three.

    Let me also say the heater core can easily be bypassed temporarily under the hood by removing the hoses from the pipes that go to the core and joining them with a couple of hose clamps. This time of year that should not be a problem and will buy you some time to get an estimate elsewhere.
  • ledzepplinledzepplin Member Posts: 41
    Remember: The dealer is a stealer. If you aren't a diy price it around. These responders are right on the money. Try utube for some possible info.
  • steven76steven76 Member Posts: 1
    So I have a 95 Camry and I have a weird issue. I can not find any answer on google or these forums.

    Basically, my car will lock and unlock itself. I was under the impression that there may be a loose wire or something so I took the door apart and could not find anything (though I could have missed something). I removed the switches on both the driver and passenger door to see if the problem was there, but it did not help. I also took off the door on the driver side and could not see any problems in the circuitry.

    Some things I have noticed:
    Happens more often when it is damp, and fixes itself when it gets dryer.
    When I hit bumps in the road it is more likely to happen.
    Generally it does not do this when the car is not on (when the key is out), though it still happens, just not nearly as often (so I disconnect the battery many times when I park my car).
    It will either strictly want to lock, or strictly unlock (mostly unlocks, but sometimes it changes). It will fight me if I use the automatic lock switch. It will not fight me if I manually lock each door.

    These all lead me to believe it is an electrical problem, yet I can not find the issue. I'd prefer not to take it to a mechanic and try to fix it myself (I'm an engineering student and would love to learn to fix problems like this on my own).

    Thank you to anyone that can help me.
  • c5t4rc5t4r Member Posts: 13
    edited July 2012
    I have a '97 Camry with 170K+ miles on it. Driving home from work today the CEL came on. I went straight to an O'Reilly Auto and had the code pulled. The result was a P1133. There were no other codes.

    Initial quotes for the sensor were in the $120 range for both the upstream and downstream sensors ($220 total). I then realized, my car has a California emission. The price jumped to over $200 for the front one alone.

    I've done some searching around, and found some much better prices for aftermarket sensors (in the $70 range) at places like RockAuto.

    My question is, is it recommended to replace both sensors at the same time? What are your thoughts on the aftermarket sensors? What's the harm in letting it go like this for a couple of weeks - driving about 20 miles a day? I figure it'll take at least a week to get the parts.

    The front sensor seems easy enough, the rear seems like it might be a bit challenging. Any thoughts or recommendations / tips are appreciated.
  • 92camry_le92camry_le Member Posts: 4
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