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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair



  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Have you ever replaced your spark plug wires? This could be the problem.
  • xusmeexusmee Posts: 2
    Toyota camry 1995. Never give me problem before.

    It starts when I forgot to turn off my head lights. The battery ran out, which is a surprise since it used to turn-off automaticly. The battery is fine after I recharge it and have auto parts people checked it.

    After the incident, the mark lights and dash board lights starts blinking whenever I turn on/off engine or slam the door, punch the dashboard, hit a bump on the road, etc...It takes half minutes to stop each time.

    I found that one rear mark ligh bulb was burned and replaced it (only one, I haven't replaced the other one and will do it first thing getting off work). I also tried taking the battery off. It still blinks.

    I really appreciate it if anyone can offer some advice.

  • I have a 2005 with about 82000 miles on it. It has been a great car with no problems to speak of. The only problem is two things that might be related.
    a) When I crank the car and it is cold, there is a lot of engine noise. It sounds as though something is lose of something. There is usually a distinct sound when I hit the gas pedal and the car is cold. The sound seems to go away when the car is warmed up.
    b) My second problem began the other day. When I'm at highway speeds and hit the gas to pass someone or something a funny noise occurs. Sometimes when the transmission downshifts, I hear a loud vibrating noise that doesn't last for long. I haven't heard this sound but a few times.

    Im hoping that I can resolve these issues because I love my camry and want to keep it for many years/miles to come.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There's a bunch of things in that circuitry, including the ignition switch, the integration relay, headlight /taillight/DRL relays, and about 4 or 5 fuses.

    Can you give me some very simple and or specific scenarios that you can make it fail, and I'll try to see if that gives me enough clues to figure out which of the components might be a problem.

    When the lights are blinking, are you hearing a relay clicking ?

    Can you verify that the battery voltage has been charged back up to 13.3 to 14.0 volts?
    Relays clicking can be because there isn't enough DC voltage to hold the relay closed.
  • reeterreeter Posts: 1
    What should a new engine's compression be ?

    What should an engines mimimum compression be?

    On a deathbed ? At what point should I no longer be nickel and dimed??? :sick: ??
  • The driver's side seat does not work-doesn't go back or forward. Passenger side does tho. Any Ideas???
  • Yes it is the same car---But sometimes I have troubles navigating these things since I don't -or have not got all that much experience navigating thru these things-but I do write down most or all the info so I know what is going on.......If you want my e-mail address- will give it to you.............
  • I am looking at a 2001 camry with the 4cylinder engine and 80000. I am aware of the sludge problems with these engines but they seller has changes the oil every 3000(documented). Should I be concerned? How can you check for sludge?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,680
    If the oil was changed regularly, it will be fine. To be sure it was done regularly, all you have to do is pull the valve cover off and you will be able to see if there is any sludge.

    I would do this with any used car before purchase.

    I know at least 3 people that have this generation Camry, that had them in excess of 100,000 miles - no sludge or excess oil consumption

    A must read about the so-called sludge problem is in "Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY" message #4829 by Hylyner.
  • ryan99ryan99 Posts: 46
    Hi all, I have received great advice here before and thought i would go to the well again. We have a 99 Camry 2.2 automatic with 175k. Has always run like a champ and has been pretty well maintained. For the past few months we have had an intermittent start/stall problem. At first it was when the motor was warm but now does it on cold start up to. It will start and stall immediately maybe three time before it may catch and run at around 400 rpm real rough. you have to hold your foot on the gas for a minute before it will keep running on its own. I have searched this forum and the old one and have found a few people had these exact symptoms and the prob was the Idle Air control valve. My mechanic says he tested it electronically and it was fine, I took the throttle off and took the little access plate off of the IAC and found the valve to be moving freely. So far three different mechanics have replaced the o2sensor, valve seals, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, and have had a couple of expensive fuel injection services done. Also the spark plugs and wires were new about 10k ago. I'm at a loss here and am really getting frustrated with this. My question is can it still be the IAC even though it tested fine? I have a gut feeling thats it because of what i have found on these forums. I really don't want to drop a few hundred more on this problem and be wrong, I have already invested $900 in this problem. I am wondering if the next time it does it, if I unplug the IAC and try to start it will that tell me anything? Thanks, Ryan
  • pawleeppawleep Posts: 8
    have similar problem with my 96 camry
    however my sunroof, rear defog and a/c will not work at all either
    what could problem be
    i checked all fuses and relays
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666

    Can you verify that your taillights do NOT work either, thanks.

    I'm suspecting that your Alt-H 100 Amp fuse is bad. It's up in the engine compartment, inside front left driver side fender wall. May also be an ignition switch, there's two circuits that go thru that switch. One of them is fed by the 100Amp fuse.
  • pawleeppawleep Posts: 8
    was 10 amp gauge/backup light fuse
  • I have a 2002 Camry with about 66K miles on it. Its oil is changed faithfully four times a year, mostly at a delaer but at times at my local tire shop. I thought I noticed a few times over the past month that when starting in the garage in the morning, blue smoke coming out the back that lasts for a few seconds? Is this normal? Could I have just never noticed it before. The car is still under my platinum warranty. Ideas?
  • pawleeppawleep Posts: 8
    you probably didn't change your fluids (IE: trans, pwr. steering brk., drain and fill on all these plus yearly drain and fill on coolant as well) often enough and possibly cause excessive heat to harden valve seals
    if they will fix it. even though your lack of preventative maintenance probably contributed towards problem then let them fix it
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,497
    If post #108 is in reply to #107, changing those fluids has absolutely nothing to do with a known problem in valve seals in the Toyota. They fail and will get worse. Trying to blame the owner is what Toyota did with their sludging/gel problems.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • you sort of sound like one of those 'Toyota can do no wrong' folks. I have those others fluids changes at 30K intervals. I just had the trany and anti-freeze flushed by the dealer a few months ago. Sadly, I am beginning to find out that Toyota has as many gasket problems as Chrysler.
  • pawleeppawleep Posts: 8
    you may be right
    had a 1986 that used to smoke for a while at start up
    owever that one was severly neglected before i bought
    maybe they do use substandard material in their valve seals on some or all models
    sorry for the negative speculation, paul
  • we have an 03 camry Automatic, well maintained and having maybe 40K miles on it. Recently we have observed that when the car first accelerates from slow speeds it makes a low droning sound (drrrrrr).When it reaches higher speeds the droning sound disappears. We took the car for its regular servicing at which point we were told the center didn't exactly know what was causing it but it MIGHT be the intake manifold. We took it to a Midas for a second opinion, and the guy there was not convinced it was the manifold and could not identify what might be causing the sound. Any ideas? have you come across this with other camrys orin your own car and what was the diagnosis? Much thanks for advice.
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    i have the same problem,fitted new plugs cleaned up dizzi contacts and rotor ,it has spark,winds but will not stated on another post i cannot hear the fuel pump start and stop like it used to ,so i took it out of the tank and tested it ,it i tested power to it with the key in the on position,its not getting power,all the fues are ok ,but i have not tested the relays does anyone have any ideas.what relay powers the fuel pump,and what cuts the fuel pump off after it has pressurized the system
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Ignition switch turns on 10A gauge, and the primary of the EFI Relay. EFI relay when powered, provides power from the 15A EFI fuse to the Circuit Opening Relay secondary points. That COR relay's primary is controlled by the ECM computer. ECM turns on the COR, the secondary points close providing power to the fuel pump.

    Edit.....actually in looking at the schematics, this might vary depending upon which engine you have, which transmission you have, and whether it is a california vehicle or not. Can you indicate what you have...thanks.
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    its a 8 /95 csi camry sedan, 5 speed manual with the 2.2 litre, 4 cyl,vin 6t153sk1009063663.i have located the 2fuses you talk of ,they are ok,i am about to check the efi relay as i have located it by bridging it out to see if the fuel pump fires up,if i do no good there i will go to the cor relay (any idea where the c.o.r relay is located on the car) and bridge it,hopefully we dont have to go to the ecm
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Up behind the glove box.

    The primary (which is controlled by the ECM) are on pin 3&6.
    The secondarys (which when primary solenoid is powered and contact is made) are on pins 1&2, and provides power to the fuel pump.

    Good luck.
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    where do i start ,i found the cor relay after a lot of exploring.fairly sure the efi relay is ok ,but not sure about the cor relay, not sure how it works really.i removed the relay and with key on found power on one pole,so with a fused jumper wire set about bridging a few poles to hear the fuel pump run,no luck.the blue / black stripe wire is the wire + that goes to the fuel pump so with the relay out bridged the power wire found with the key on to the blue fuel pump wire,you guess it nothing i run a wire from the bridged wires to the pump and with the fuel pump running gave the engine a turn, and it started............ all good. so i removed both the bridged wires and replaced the cor relay.the does click when the car is cranking so i tested for power with a test pencil .the pump does receive power while it is being wound but there is no power in the key on position , no power no 2 or 3 second fuel prime and it wont start where do i go from here i,m at a loss
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    after just reading your post on the operation of the cor relay, it may well be faulty if it does have a dual purpose so the bridging i did didnt have mutch of an effect
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'll try to give you an analogy to explain the operation of a relay. The overall purpose of a relay, is to allow a weak trigger (or signal), to control something that requires a lot of power. It also provides isolation between the two circuits.

    There are two pieces to it, the 'primary' side, and the 'secondary' side. The 'primary' side is the trigger, or in an analogy a very small child's finger on a light switch. The child can walk up to a light switch, and flip the switch on. Inside the relay is an electromagnetic coil. When it is energized with electricity, it creates a magnetic field, and that magnetic field pulls down a lever. In this case in the car, the trigger is controlled by the engine computer. The computer powers the primary side of the relay. Putting 13v power onto pins 3&6, will cause the coil to energize, and pull down the lever.

    On the 'secondary' side, when the lever pulls down it pulls two higher amperage contacts together. Those contacts are connected to pins 1&2. When the relay primary is un-energized, you should find infinite resistance between these two pins. When the relay is energized, you should find a short between these two pins.

    So a child walks up to a switch, and with very little pressure is able to turn on a switch and power up anything that is connected to the swtich.

    When a relay fails, it fails in a couple of different ways with different symptoms
    - First problem could be that the primary solenoid wire burns, and it doesn't create a magnetic field anymore. The symptom is that the relay doesn't turn anything on (the childs finger is broke)
    - Second problem is that the secondary relay points burn/fuse together (like they weld together), and the fuel pump never turns off, Doesn't matter what happens on the primary side either on or off, the secondary is always shorted and turned on.
    - Thrid problem is that the secondary relay points burn and deform, and instead of providing a dead short (allowing full power to flow thru the points), it provides a high resistance. This high resistance ends up dropping voltage across the points as there is current flow (V=iR) V-voltage, i-current, R-resistance.
    - Fourth problem that occurs much less often, is that there is a physical bind in the lever moving, causing sporadic operation.

    I re-read your last post. Are you indicating you are getting fuel pump turning on and working when the key is in the 'start' position, but not on in the 'run' position?
  • rovin1rovin1 Posts: 3
    hi,i suggest you have it checked out by an ase master technician,be shure to talk to himself not the owner of the business and explain the noise sometimes it can be the flex pipe on the exhaust may develop a slight leakage ,when the vehicle is in drive the pipe moves fort and back ,or it can also cause by an air filter but if it is an air filter causing to the point to make a noise that you is trying to explain this would of cause a service light to come on i do not think is the air filter my best sugession is to let a technician inspect the problem for you if you need to locate a technicial there is this sight you can enter you postal code and locate one let us know if this info help you thank you Rovin.
  • I need to know how much oil can fit in the oil reserve tank on my 99 camry. The engine size is the smaller of the two options (I forget what the options are).

    When I change my own oil the dipstick comes out at a different place each time. The dipstick has to be spun in order to go in all the way, and I am not getting a consistent reading. I've been using 4 qts but don't know how much oil I should be putting in.

  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    yes, there appears to be power to the pump when in the start position or while cranking the motor(thats when i tested it)but not in the on positiion,which i think is needed for fuel system prime prior to stated i did get the motor to run by powering the pump by an alternate power source and just cranking it,something i havent mentioned is the air intake tube between the air box and the engine was split badly and had to be replaced,
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If your pump turns on when the ignition is in start position, then most likely that relay is good (since it turns the pump on, and off). Your problem must be further 'upstream' of the fuel pump.

    I'd suggest checking to make sure your ignition switch is working. There are two separate circuits that go thru the ignition switch. The first is fed from the 40Amp fuse called AM1, which then goes to one of the circuits in the ignition switch. Make sure that fuse is good. The output of the ignition switch then feeds the 7.5Amp IGN fuse, which then feeds the distributor igniter and ECM. Make sure the 7.5A IGN fuse is good.

    The second circuit is fed from a 30Amp fuse calle AM2. Check to make sure that fuse is good, and you can verify this circuit by turning on the windshield wipers....while the switch is in the 'ignition' (or ON) position. AM2 to the 2nd circuit thru the ignition switch, then to a couple fuses including the 20Amp Wiper fuse, then to the wiper switch and motor.
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