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Three questions:
The dealership can't explain the drop in my mileage except for the cold. Can it all be blamed on this reason, or is there something else to look at?
According to them, my tranny and coolant fluids were dirty. I last changed them at 46K. Is this normal to need to do after 30K? Can this (wishfully) explain the mileage problem?
They put a sticker in my car to remind me of 5,000 mile oil change, but I thought the conventional wisdsom was back to 3,000. Any ideas?
Thank you!
can someone offer me a starting place to diagnose what is wrong and how to fix it. I am curious on theories of what caused this. Thanks in advance
stu_johns@hotmail.com
Check your hotmail, sent you a picture that will help. Focus on identifying the items that are working and not working. You may be downstream one fuse from the 100ALT, if you can verify a device on one of the tree limbs off the 100ALT is working okay.
Good luck
A little background: I recently had my engine replace and the car sounds great and is running a-o-k, BUT after an hour of getting the car back my speedometer and RPM gauge stopped working, dash light indicating the gear I'm in is not on and I can no longer open or close any of my power windows (including the sunroof). I have ck'd the window fuses and they are good.
I obviously took the car back in for thinking when they replaced the engine they screwed up something electrical.... they said it's the Neutral Switch causing the relay for the windows to go out, the lights in the dash not to work and the rest of the dash (speedometer and RPMs not to register).
I don't know about cars, but it sounds weird how they are all connected. Could it have been an error on the engine install and now they are trying to get me for more money due to their error??? PLEASE I NEED HELP!
Stacey :confuse:
For your vehicle the 10A Gauge fuse, handles:
ABS and traction control
Backup Light
Charging
Combination Meter (your dash gauge)
Cruise Control
Door Locks
Electronically controlled Transmission and indicator
Engine Control
Headlight w/Daytime running light
Key reminder and seat belt buzzer
Light Auto Turn off
Moon Roof
Power Window
Stop Light
Taillight
Many thanks in advance,
Murad
Again I thank you for your input, glad I found this forum and will spread the word.
Stacey
Toyota dealer including the water pump is asking for 950+.
Do you guys think I should work on the oil seal and water pump now itself? I am planning on owning this car for a while.
The timing belt pricing is about right, but why is the 90K mile maintenance costing $300? Seems high to me, but I guess I've been doing that myself for so long, I've lost touch with current prices.
First of all the shop didn't give me an estimate before they went ahead and fixed the car. They first told me on the phone that it would cost $317. Then after I went to get my car they brought it down to 270. It was $90 for parts, and 3 hr labor totaling of 180. My friends told me I got ripped. Is that the case?
The car is in very good condition; in fact, the interior is virtually excellent. The exterior is in very good condition; no dings or dents with good paint. The car has 81K on it. It is a v6 XLE with leather, sunroof and 5speed manual (fun)
My question is: the car is probably worth $5500-$6000 when running, what is it worth with a seized engine?
Should I consider spending $3k to fix the car to running condition or sell and take my lumps?
I'm not a mechanic and therefore incapable of fixing what is an otherwise very good car.
Any help, thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated!!
-sad in Portland
Otherwise, the choice is yours -- without a working engine, the car is essentially worthless. Good luck!
Thank you.
I appreciate your help.
Toyota Engine Sludge on Edmunds
There are 5000 posts in the sludge discussion on Edmunds. If you search the web you will find lots of discussions where it's talked about, although some have been closed by people who have some reason for not wanting it discussed complaining to get discussions taken off. The discussion on Edmunds got closed by the same tactics.
You can search for sludge on Edmunds using the "Search Forums" and you'll find several different discussions.
At first Toyota blamed the customers. Then there have been valve cover modifications to get more air flow through the motor to remove contaminants which are thought to expedite the sludge formation. There may be more factors in the motor design that expedite the sludge formation. Many car motors are prone to sludging, not just toyota.
If you bought it from a Toyota dealer, they should have checked it for sludging before selling it. You may be able to determine if the previous customer had the once-per-year oil changes required for coverage under warranty fi they had those done at a dealer or you can find the previous owner.
Toyota should step up and help you replace the motor like Honda has with transmission problems.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks, Ryan
Also, does anyone know if you replace the stock head unit with an aftermarket, do you lose the steering wheel audio controls? Thank you!
I know ECT stands for Electronic Controlled Transmission. Most likely an electrical problem eh?
Ive been hesitant to take it to a dealership (financial reasons) just in case there is something I can do to fix the problem.
Any ideas or insight is much appreciated.
Good luck
It starts when I forgot to turn off my head lights. The battery ran out, which is a surprise since it used to turn-off automaticly. The battery is fine after I recharge it and have auto parts people checked it.
After the incident, the mark lights and dash board lights starts blinking whenever I turn on/off engine or slam the door, punch the dashboard, hit a bump on the road, etc...It takes half minutes to stop each time.
I found that one rear mark ligh bulb was burned and replaced it (only one, I haven't replaced the other one and will do it first thing getting off work). I also tried taking the battery off. It still blinks.
I really appreciate it if anyone can offer some advice.
William
a) When I crank the car and it is cold, there is a lot of engine noise. It sounds as though something is lose of something. There is usually a distinct sound when I hit the gas pedal and the car is cold. The sound seems to go away when the car is warmed up.
b) My second problem began the other day. When I'm at highway speeds and hit the gas to pass someone or something a funny noise occurs. Sometimes when the transmission downshifts, I hear a loud vibrating noise that doesn't last for long. I haven't heard this sound but a few times.
Im hoping that I can resolve these issues because I love my camry and want to keep it for many years/miles to come.
Can you give me some very simple and or specific scenarios that you can make it fail, and I'll try to see if that gives me enough clues to figure out which of the components might be a problem.
When the lights are blinking, are you hearing a relay clicking ?
Can you verify that the battery voltage has been charged back up to 13.3 to 14.0 volts?
Relays clicking can be because there isn't enough DC voltage to hold the relay closed.
What should an engines mimimum compression be?
On a deathbed ? At what point should I no longer be nickel and dimed??? :sick: ??
Paul
Paul
Thanks
I would do this with any used car before purchase.
I know at least 3 people that have this generation Camry, that had them in excess of 100,000 miles - no sludge or excess oil consumption
A must read about the so-called sludge problem is in "Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY" message #4829 by Hylyner.