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By the way, I have had a Japan-built Rav that had rattles. I got it fixed under warranty (there was a TSB out for it). Just saying that you can't say that Japan built = perfection. It is mainly in the original design.
I just pulled out the electrical schematics for the heated seats. There is no timer circuitry or anything like that, which would turn them off. The regular illuminated seat heater switch is to turn them on and off. There are two little unmarked things that look like a mini-switch which is in the seat cushion (two on the passenger seat, two on the drivers seat), which aren't clear what they are. They may be pressure switches, or thermal switches. For instance if it was a pressure switch, perhaps it won't turn on unless someone is sitting in the seat. If it was a thermal switch, it could make connection only when it's cold, and when it heats up it opens up to keep the seat from overheating.
I'd take it back to the dealership, they'll fix it for you.
These days most seat heaters either have a thermistor for controlling the seat heating level or they have two thermostatic switches. The heating elements get MAXIMUM power only until the desired/designed surface temperature is reached. In the case of the thermostatic switches once the design temperature is reached the system goes into 1/4 power mode and even that will be shut off if the seat surface temperature rises above the temperature setpoint of the second switch.
With the thermistor once the design temperature is reached the power is simply switched on and off electronically to hold the seat at the design temperature.
The remote starter "feature" is perfectly understandable.
I've never owner a car wherein the radio didn't shut off when I turned the ignition completely off, didn't leave it in the accessory position.
Charger = power to the cigarette lighter plug...SOP.
Thermostatic switches, when the design temperature is reached one of these opens to put the heating element into 1/4 power mode. The second switch has an "overtemp" (discomforting) setpoint and therefore depowers the heater altogether. If/as the seat cools the switch will turn the power will come back on.
Lots of cars have this feature where a lot of the power is available for up to about 10 min. after turning the car off and goes off when a door is opened. You need to brooden your horizens as I had a number of cars with this feature.
The point is that the window power delay and the headlight delay seem to be the same, turn the ignition off, the power stays on...open the driver's door, power off.
Some vehicles have a "like" system but if you open the driver's door first and then turn off the ignition the headlights remain on.
i haven't talked to my dealership yet. i just wanted to know if there's any reliable DIY scratch removal stuff that anyone ever used?
thanks in advance
I can't seem to program the door lock/unlock using instructions on page 45 of the owners manual. I wanted to set the doors to lock at 12+ mph and couldn't do it. Neither could my sales rep or the service consultant. The guys in the garage had to use "Scan Tool" to set the option. Now, the doors still lock when I shift out of park, and again at 12+ mph (if I unlock the door manually). How do I turn off the "shift out of park" option? Are the instructions in the owners manual wrong?
Hope this helps.
how much does a new windshield cost ? i know my insurance covers windshield but i don't know if that increases my premium
As for affecting your premiums.......probably not......unless you did this once already in the past three years.
Here's what to do: phone three autoglass guys in the yellowpages; tell them you're shopping for a glass replacement guy who'll pay the biggest portion of your deductible on your insurance (that's the 3-500 YOU pay out of pocket, no matter WHAT the total is.)
You MAY find a guy who'll pay the whole thing, in which case your new windshield costs you nothing.
Good luck!
Mike
"How much does it cost to paint a car" is another one of those "How long is a piece of string"-type questions.
Depends who you ask....and who does the job. You could probably get quotes from$100 to $1000 depending on whether they a) are good, b) are hungry, c) "see you coming".
Ask a couple of local car dealers (any brand) "Who does your touch-up work?"
Drive the car to three local paint shops and let them have a look at it. Get quotes....pick the one that fits your budget.....AND the one that makes you comfortable about their work. (Ask to see some samples while you're at their shop.)
You probably DON'T want to put this through your insurance, since the cost will probably be about equal to your deductible anyway.
I was on vacation and somebody has deliberately scratched my car on one side. Has anybody put the side moldings to avoid scratches on the car? is it necessary to go to a dealership itself?
And the scratches are around 1 feet long. any idea how much would be the cost to get it repaired? they just repaint it or do a lot of stuff? there is not dent.. just scratches.
The clips may cost a dollar or so each (at most), so it's still pocket change. (Granted, Toyota probably paid 2 cents each for their manufacture.)
See you there!
The car has been to the dealership 2 other times getting these panels replaced. We are now going back the third time for more spots appearing.
Has anyone else had a problem with the interior plastic pieces?
~Chris
With alloys, though, you have to be extra-careful when parallel parking -- you don't want to scrape those expensive wheels against a curb. Replacing hub caps is much cheaper.
There's very little extra maintenance involved with "mags", compared to the beauty you'll add and the pride and enjoyment you'll feel by having a great looking set of wheels on your car.
The main advice I have for you today, is to check around with a few car accessory shops to see what is available from sources other than Toyota, or your dealer. You might be pleasantly surprised at the great variety of terrific looking wheels that are available from "aftermarket" manufacturers.
A commonly used strategy is to order the car with the crappy stock wheels, then have a "wheel shop" put on the new wheels (and possibly even a new/different) set of tires.....and put the stock wheels back on in Winter (if you HAVE Winter where you are)....and/or when you sell the car eventually.
Also, think about putting a larger diameter wheel on the car which, when combined with a lower profile tire, will really make your new car look sexy. Talk to the wheel/tire specialty guys about this. They'll know exactly what will 'clear' your fenders/wheel wells.
Have fun shopping.......enjoy your new wheels (both kinds!).....and don't sweat the cleaning chores; you'll love fondling your new, sexy wheels!
Cheers,
Michael
All of these finishes are no more maintenance-intensive than your box-stock Camry wheels.
Even if you did go with uncoated alloys, the fact that you might have to take them off and get the tire/wheel contact portion buffed and lubed or siliconed would not be a bad thing. Can't imagine too many tires lasting more than five years under many conditions anyway, so you'd have the wheels and tires off the car for this process in any event........therefore, no real increase in "maintenance costs".
Mike
I respectfully disagree. About 2 years after I had new tires put on, one of the alloys had corrosion again and needed to be removed, cleaned, and remounted. It happened again around a year later - not sure if it was the same wheel or not. My tire guy said this is common with older alloys in the north (salted roads in the winter). This is a 10 year old car. It definitely is more maintenance cost vs. my steel wheels that have never had to be remounted. One of these was 12 years old, the other 9. Granted, it is not much more, but it is more.
I use one of those foam "horse collar" cushions designed to go around your neck while riding in planes (or cars) and just put the whole thing behind the lower half of my back while driving our 07 SE.
Works great!
Mike
I'm trying to buy 2009 Toyota Camary LE 6cyl it gives me a MSRP of $24,215 and an Invoice price of $21,793. Now I know I qualify for two of their incentive programs which are the $1,500 and a $1,000 for new graduate.
Can anyone please tell me how would I start the negotiations? Can I start from the Invoice price and ask for them to give me both of the Incentives (21,793 - 2500) would that be possible?
I live in Los Angeles
Thanks in advance
I don't know about Corolla's.