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I've been told that any change of battery can mean a number of things if not done properly. I assume properly means having a secondary power source so the computer controlled functions do not have to be reset or re- trained.
Also, the shifting of an automatic may have to be re-learned based on some new driving habits being monitored.
Of coarse, this is all hearsay as I'm not a mechanic but I've experienced a few electrical or shifting anomalies that ring true to these characteristics I'd heard of.
In fact, on my last occasion of seriously bad transmission failure, I unhooked the battery thinking it might reset something important and correct a problem. The trans shop my buddie told me to take it to just for a code read told me I had wiped out any codes by unhooking the battery so a diagnostic code read would be a waste of money.
My advice is try driving it very normal and not under undue strain a bit and see if a few days of re learning will get it back in normal order. If not check with a shop familiar with these kinds of things and they may repeat a simulated battery swap starting over using the preferred and safe procedures.
~brian
Pull the F/awd clutch fuse except for times of need, TRUE times of need (KNOWN slippery roadbed), and the drive train life will be indefinite.
thanks
I did have it fix last June, didn’t fix the problem as it keep returning every few months. Turns out there was a bad washer from the rebuild so they took it all apart again and fixed it, It has worked fine ever since. So I had to have 2 rebuilds to fix the problem, lucky for me that the shop offered a warranty so the second rebuild was free to me minus the time I spent taking it in to get fixed. I looked at different websites and found it is common to have problems getting the transmission fixed.
To the person asking about getting a 2009 one, I really enjoy the tribute but wish I had better gas mileage; currently I am debated to invest more money in to getting new tires, more money on up keep or get a new car with better gas mileage. I am now thinking of keeping it and hope it last a few 2 more years without anything major happening to it. I would do a search of mazda tribute 2009 problems and see if anything major comes up as well.
Unless you are looking for an excuse to get something else, I'd say do the math first. Going from 19 mpg to 35 mpg will save you around $30 a month considering 600 miles of driving or commute a month. That does not account for a loss of equity in getting out of the Trib (if that would be the case) or the cost and related finance for a different car and if newer, probable higher insurance rates. One of reasons for the Trib as my choice was the side air bags and the sense of safety with an SUV that sits a bit taller in the case of a crash or tee-bone hit. (Been there).
I think the typical 35 mpg car ( best case highway not apples to apples against the 18 -19 mpg city on the Trib) is not built as solid or safe for a crash rating either.
Just my .02 cents.
~brian
How many miles are on it? Still in waranty?
What will shavings show? I have not had this done, but if I do, should I do it at the dealership or thru another shop?
Thanks for your comments.
Mazda is giving us 8 years watty with no without any cost to us ...or replace the tribute ..... file the lemon law let me know please
You need to send copies of all the services you have had and letters to all of these places mentioned above. Please start this process before the vehicle is 2 years/24 months.
I am in my final process of the solution of this situation and I am getting 4 more years of Warranty or repurchase of another vehicle and pay the difference of the vehicle I chose.
Hope this information can help you.
When you lost drive, and then shortly after lost 1st and 2nd, what exactly was the problem? Where can the parts be purchased from? My friend has had exactly the same thing happen with her 2002 Tribute AWD V6, (besides countless other problems!)
I'm sure I can get someone to pull the transmission out, and there are lots of small mechanics and machine shops that are good that could put it back together if the local transmission shop is being stupid.
All I basically need is where you got your rebuild parts from? Or what exactly they are, so I can look around for them.
Thanks!
~b
The forward drive drum/hub was not easy to source through a dealer and that was the biggest glitch. ebay has rebuilt-refurbished I think.
I had a shift kit added that reduces wear on the parts and I'm told most kits have better parts / components than factory new.
I also went with the advice of using one bottle of Valvoline synthetic then the balance of regular trans fluid by Valvoline. It reduces operating temps just a bit but the synthetic can/will be a problem if you use more or too much in the ratio. I'm sure the rebuild by a qualified shop or mechanic will out perform - outlast the factory original.
How many miles are on that thing anyways ?
http://www.amtrans.nl/CD4E.pdf
She has over 200,000kms on it.
She is still weighing her options. Something about girls not liking to "wing it" with cars, or "experiment" I guess. Personally, if it's at all possible to fix, I would rather do that. She apparently has an offer by someone to replace it with a low-km transmission from a wrecker for $1600 CAD, with a 90 day warranty, and then she'll probably try selling it and getting something smaller. She's moving soon anyways. If she does get her tranny replaced though, I'm definitely going to try to get my hands on the broken one and see what I can get done, or do myself, with it. Apparently rebuilt ones are in high demand.
The diagram is for a 4sp-FWD. Do you think it's similar enough to the AWD?
I haven't been working with cars much until this year, but I'm starting to enjoy it. I just wish you could work on them without the urgency of needing them to work before your life falls apart. haha.
$2000 sounds about right, maybe even low from $2500 - $2800 depending on the damage. Understand that with a factory fix and parts, you may be set up for the same problem 70k to 100k miles out again. Factory parts and design (Ford transmission) is what it is.
I'd be more inclined to find or stick with a mechanic or shop that is off the trail from a dealership and make sure they can and will use a tranny rebuild kit that fixes the glitches of a factory design. Say it just that way and when you get a bite from a shop or mech that understands what you are saying, get an estimate from them. Trans get too hot often due to poor design. For some in the older days, it just meant drilling a pilot hole in a part of the valve body to let fluid get to parts it was not getting to as well. Ford could have easily fixed or modified it on the assembly line on the older cars but never did.
Get it fixed right and keep it forever b/c it'll be better than new. If you get it fixed via factory parts, drive for another 20 - 30k miles and sell it. Tell us how it works out though !! Good luck -
~brian
I suggest that the longevity of the driveline could be seriously extended if you add a switch such that the rear drive clutch could be disabled unless the driver is aware or suspicious of slippery roadbed conditions.
I also had the leaking rear window problem as you did. The dealer replaced the rear window and seal and it helped some but still has a small leak.
Picked up a 2010 and had no problems until at 33k I had to accelerate quickly at a left turn and the tranny failed, wouldn't get power to the wheels. I nearly cause a major 5 vehicle collision at an intersection that could have killed people.
The vehicle showed no signs of any issues prior to this incident. Dealer replaced the transmission under warranty but the new one is now having problems too. It is shifting very roughly.. I will be taking it in again soon.
I apparently didn't research enough because I had thought any issues were worked out prior to the 2010 model year.
There was someone who posted earlier in this thread that described what happened with my 2010 the same as his, a terrible shuttering that would shake the vehicle. I know this because the dealer advised me to bring it in.
I wonder if I had caused a horrific accident and killed people and the investigators found a faulty transmission on a new vehcile if Mazda would have had to deal with it then?
Thanks,
After running at 60-65 mph, the engine is loud and sounds like an airplane motor. RPM doesn't go above 2, and have to push accelerator to the floor to keep speed up.
Worried I'm gonna burn my trans out, but not much $$ to afford a major fix.
My problem started after having the alternator replaced - coincidence?
thanks!
Thank you!
By any chance was it Londonderry, NH. I bought my 2003 mazda tribute from a small dealer also, back in November, now my tranny is acting up and almost got me killed on the highway yesterday. Today engine reving upon start-up and tranny just isn't the same. **
Ok all you Tribute owners, this is an update on my tranny giving out on the highway 2 weeks ago.
I was on the highway and went to pass someone and as I was speeding up my 2003 tribute just lost power, engine was still running but no shifting. I went from 70mph down to 30mph in seconds, almost got me killed. Since then rough idle, stalling, high reving rpm. End result this is what I did: Disconnected the Battery, Took out the entire air cleaner box, MAF Sensor and Air Idle Control valve. Cleaned all the duct work and air cleaner box in kitchen sink-after taking the MAF Sensor off of course. Bought Some MAF spray cleaner at Autozone and cleaned as directed. Cleaned Air Idle Control with Trottle body cleaner from Autozone and cleaned as directed. I manually opened up the throttle body on the intake and sprayed inside and wiped clean. My Air filter was only a month old so I cleaned out any debri and vaccumed it. Re-installed everything back in place. Connected the Battery.
Got in Turned the key and efter a little Hesitaion started right up with no high reving. Let it run to normal operating temp then put AC on full blast for about 5 min. Now driving it at least 15 miles to reset computer. END RESULT- My Tribute is running better than ever, smooth idle, shifting is perfect and I,m actually getting better gas mileage. Not to mention-this 3.0 v6 takes off like a fricken rocket. Hope this helps. Any question or pics, info, feel free to send me a shout. Steve : )