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tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I noticed transmission jerking occasionally since the beginning. Luckily, it has not morphed into a big issue.
I also tried to do a purchase in this dealership. The salesperson did so many number tricks on me (I am not bad in math) that I walked out without any intention to buy any car from this dealership anytime under any circumstance.
Good for you. Please write up your experiences over in Dealer Ratings and Reviews too. Thanks!
I am so thankful for their support becauseI would have had to pay $4000. To bad that the transmissions on the 2006 models seem to be crap because other than that it's a great vehicle,
I have a 2006 I4 Tribute with 73K miles on it, the automatic transmission started bucking and jumping two weeks ago. Six weeks ago the repair shop I use refused to service the transmission at the last oil change because they feared a battle if there was a problem with the transmission. Last night my daughter & I discussed her homework in Economics class. I chose to use the car she drives as example. The shop refuses to service the transmission, they loose $20-$30 income. (the shop knew I would have a problem) Because no service was completed, I am not as likely to bad mouth them as I am if a problem does start to develop. Also, I am less likely to force them to give me a discount IF they have to fix the transmission. The shop lost $30, because the transmission is now showing symptoms of total failure.
Also, this is Rant #66, in nearly three years, that the board has been available. Mazda & Ford will soon release the 2011 models. When you do the math and brake down 66 posted issues over 10 years of production, with three different transmissions...(4cyl & 6cyl have different automatics+ 4cyl manual) That is 66 posted problems VS 30 products. Mazda looks and sees that there is NO specific problem. As consumers, we look at this and see that Mazda & Ford have a long string of problems. Due to their choice of a light duty transmission from their economy vehicles to install in a crossover SUV. A vehicle that weighs more than the economy car. A vehicle that likely will be used to haul a greater load than the economy car. A vehicle that because of its mass will have a greater drag-coefficient than the economy vehicles. All these factors cause more stress on this light duty economy vehicle transmission forced to do more than it was designed to do. As consumers we see and experience the problems, caused by Corporate Economic Decisions. As under-employed software engineer, I can not economically afford to replace my POS. So Mazda's extended warranty will have opportunity Monday to fund the transmission replacement due to Corporate Economic Decisions. Next time, I will do more homework on economics... Mine and theirs... :lemon:
I saw where you said $5-6K to replace your tranny. Yikes! If I eventually experience the same tranny issues I'll have to look at it this way: this vehicle is 7 years old and has been loan-free for over 5 of those years. I saved a lot of money by paying it off in a hurry. If the rest of the vehicle remains in good shape, a $6K tranny is still cheaper than a new car.
So far my biggest repair bill has been for new alternator last summer. Other than that it has been a good vehicle. By the way, I also own a 2005 Honda Civic with manual tranny. The alternator on it crapped out last summer just before the Tribute's did... and it fried my battery in the process. I think cars are a crap shoot no matter what brand you get. Some have better odds but are not totally without risk of failures.
At 80 or 85k there was a intermittent problem with shifting and whining rpm's turned out to be the corroded connection or ground on the CD4E model trans... I hope it's something cheap and simple ... any ideas from what I describe here.. ?
Oh.. almost forgot to add,, the OD light started flashing on the dash at one point later in the problem. All this happened within 45 minutes to one hour. I thought I could limp it along for a while to see if it got better but it got worse. Darn.
~brian
I'll follow up with the cause / fix as soon as I get it done.
Last time was a weird shifting at various rpms and turned out to be a corroded ground that these are well know to exhibit. That was a cheap fix butt he symptoms on this round are entirely different.. might be a big ouchy.
Ever since the clutch replacement (now @ 138K miles), I am experiencing problems with the clutch not catching properly or soon enough when going from idle (neutral) into 1st. The problem occurs when I'm at a dead stop (starting from neutral), so I am entering 1st gear from zero speed. I'll be at a stop with car in neutral & foot on the brake, then let up on brake, depress clutch pedal and apply gas for car to engage into 1st -- when I let out the clutch there is shuddering/shaking as though 1st gear isn't catching soon enough. This doesn't happen when shifting into any other higher gears, only from neutral into 1st. The problem typically occurs once the car is warm. (And I should mention, never happened while I was driving on the original clutch assembly -- problem only began happening once I began driving on replacement clutch).
Any ideas?
While moving into the shift motion, there seems to be a hesitation at different intervals going (hard shifting) and when down shifting, it seems to shake, and at other times, really double shakes, like the car is going to fall apart. This is a definite strong feeling. I live in the car, and I know every sound and have never had this before.
Has anyone had this similar problem. Dealer states this is normal, and I cannot agree.
PLEASE - PLEASE - I NEED IMMEDIATE HELP AND DIRECTION. THANK YOU.
has been sitting for 3.5 months and the trans is on his work bench. I had a surprise of expensive hard to get part of $320 - forward drive hub but the rest of the parts and trans kit was pretty cheap. I'm in for $1050 now and that more than covers parts by a little. Wish I"d have thought of canceling the insurance to have saved a few hundred though. Hopefully will have it put in and working good soon and will update this. I have a 2600 mile road trip set for mid October so i hope to get some miles on it around town before the big trip. Mechanic says these are always better built after the factory parts fail and the kit parts go in. He wants me to refill it with 9 qts factory fluid and 1 qt synthetic. That special part is nearly impossible to get through dealer. They want it as in house work and limit dealers to 1 hub a week. I got around some of that through a friend or
we'd be scabbing used or rebuilt off ebay for $170 to $220. I hope to post again within 2-3 weeks.
-Hoot noise which was kinda fixed but still hear it.
-Leaking back window
-Seatbelt fell apart
-Windows which make strange noises when closing
-Air conditionner blowing out white crap all over me and dash...(they cleaned it a few times)
- *******And most importantly the strange noise coming from under me or the engine when I go foward. Its almost like a rumbling noise...sometimes I hear metal in metal and it also happens when I'm going normal slow speed (50km) and with low rpm's. (going over a small hill) Its sounds like a RRRRrrrrrrrrrahhhh and its annoying! I noticed it did it more often when I had the air on. They changed the catalitic comverter and did some adjustments to the catalitic and front pipe and donut but it seems to be doing it even more. The service agent told me if they could hear it and not normal, they could fix it. I had 3 mecanics hear the noise. They all told me it wasnt normal. Now they told me all Tribute's make that bizar noise and there's nothing to be done.
I'm bringing it one last time to maybe check the manifold and replace everything to stock parts and hopefully the noise will stop or be less noticable. I already spoke to a lawyer and someone at the automotive arbitration plan. I will proceed if not resolved.
Anybody have this problem? ggrrrrrrrrRRRRarRRR noise!
I also noticed when I start moving that there's like a loss of power and not constant? Is that a transmission issue? I think it does it more when i have the air on aswell. Like a small jolt....i give gaz and it starts, i lose power, then it goes but annoying since my whole body swings cause there's not a constant flow....does that make sense?
thanks
Historically, I have towed the 'truck' behind an rv, following their instructions. Now I'm afraid to do that again. Flat towing was one of the reasons I got that 'truck' rather than another Saturn.
Obviously they are trying to put lightweight fancy trannies in vehicles most folks want to use as trucks.
It now awaits a bunch of electrical hookups, some coolant and airbox stuff and the wheels/ tires/new brakes /rotors. I'm told that the first phases will be some special electrical steps then the trans re training and special shifting sequences, speeds, rpm's etc... It has an SK brand ? shift kit added to it and the good DR is wanting Valvoline Mercon ATF with 1 quart -only- of Synthetic. I should be able to add a post with first impressions within the next week or so. I want to get some drive time on it before we go out to Michigan in three weeks for our 3000 mile test drive !! .
- The rebuild and shift kit both comment heavily on the weaknesses and traits known to be problematic and I"m now convinced I had both problems or one problem leading to the other. The ground strap is known to be a faulty connection often times and can trigger problems with the forward drive hub getting energized directly. In my case, a few years ago (and just prior to another Michigan road trip) it was shifting weird and holding back at times with rpms beyond then norm for shift points. That turned out to be a ground problem , a quick and minor fix I attribute to my friend coaching me on the ground strap possibility and my pleading with the dealer to check it first before going to the book on other stuff. These kits also point out that potential and even paint or loc-tite on the strap as being a gremlin. Get the paint off the strap and make sure all connections are good!!
In my recent case, I lost all forward drive eventually over a few miles. First is was Drive then low and 2nd quit. All I had was reverse.
The other items worth noting IMO are the forward drive hub was damaged and it was a booger to get through a dealer as over the counter... $310 new with a discount. At that point I had between $300 - $400 in parts cost so this nearly doubled it. I ended up with about $800 or a bit more in it as parts not including labor for the work. I'll guess at a total of $1450.
My mech prefers I use Valvoline Mercon ATF with the exception of 1 qt Mercon V (synthetic). Note that I find 10qts as capacity on some sources and 13.4 in the O/M. The thing to know here is the stick has the high mark for cold and this trans has a trap door where more fluid will go to reduce foaming. This happens when it gets hot so I may still be reading a false high on the stick. I'll keep a close watch on it and get it on the highway later today. From my reading, the level will drop about 3/8 of an inch and be in the middle of the cross-hatch after it warms up.
I have 70 to 80 miles on it as now. It is working perfectly and this shift kit isn't as aggressive as I expected ... it shifts smoother than the factory trans did previously. I'm pretty thrilled to have saved big money and feel I have a better trans than a factory new in the box gizmo. I really credit these aftermarket engineers knowing the fixes and weaknesses AND correcting them with quality parts whereas the mfg just keeps pumping out the same stuff off the assembly line or out-sourcing to the lowest bidder.
Good luck to all of you that are in for some down time if you have to get a fix done!
~brian
I have had so many problems, starting with the Abs, then the electronic system, the airbag had issues, the heat went on the car in the middle of February, I live in CANADA, it was cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My entire drivers seat had to be replaced, the frame of the seat popped through the fabric and cushion! These are just a few issues - never in my life have I had these kinds of problems with a vehicle - I am going back to toyota! I will never buy a Mazda again - as soon as the transmission gets fixed I am getting rid of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyone else have these kinds of problems????
The most consistant advice I've seen that does often work is being reasonably tempered BUT persistant. Do not let them think you'll take NO for an answer. If you've went up the chain to the 'ZONE' mgr you might be as far as you can go. With the number of problems you have had it sounds like a lemon. There are laws about that as well. Document everything including the first problem you had no matter that it is or is not related to the major trans meltdown. Mileage - dates etc... If I were in your shoes, I'd learn the laws about harassment so I did not over step that line. Then, I'd be on the phone or in the store daily (not yelling and screaming but persistently pursuing a win-win solution. I'd also tell those folks that my family history shows I'll probably live to be 111 years old and that is about the time I'll hand off a still unresolved issue to my family members to take over the regular visits until satisfied. Most anybody w/i the miles of warranty would have new vehicle as per the lemon law (at least here in the States). That should give them incentive to at least do the repairs or split some costs , worst case. If you have already reamed them, they may not want to help you at all. So go back and start over to be friendly / persistant. Also ... Let them know you will share your success if they work with you or you will share the nightmare of problems they left you with so your community knows how they treat customers. Update when you can and good luck.
** I know it's an investment in time but tell them if it takes 20 visits or 315 , you are there until it is resolved (at least let them think that). You are talking about a vehicle that is worth zero now. I could not afford to NOT take them to task if it were me.
~brian
~brian
I hope I am wrong but it sounds more serious. My grounding problem from a few years ago seemed to cause hiccups at erroneous shift points. I considered it a mild problem and annoyance but it did worry me it could be more serious/costly. Still, I would ask the dealer to look at the the simple things such as that for starters. Might be a simple code check will tell them exactly what it is but beware. I was careful not to pay for more than one diagnosis fee because they should get it right the first time. If not, watch they don't charge you for other stuff as collateral fixing before actually getting to the correct source of trouble. I might sound paranoid and untrusting but I'm just cheap and lacking gobs of money that these things can entail. I try to listen closely, repeat what they say back to them so I'm clear and take notes or save all paperwork as per good documentation. Good luck and let us know what you find.
~brian
~brian
As per the advice, it really wasn't tailored to warranty work, just in general services because I have found instances where I don't want to pay for anything twice nor a mis-diagnosis. Those are things you can get caught up into before you know it and it's easier to clarify what they promise and what you expect up front.
I believe my (most) trans rebuild kits have better than factory parts so I'm driving that Tribute of mine until the end of time.
~brian