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Comments
The concern is once the engine is reflashed, can it be _reflashed _back to factory stock without any consequences?
The other concern is whether or not the drivetrain is up to the additional power.
The tuner shops say yes, but I am not sure. I'm loathe to blow my warranty away.
Call me a cynic, but the old truism comes to mind, "There's no free lunch". :P
Mileage may suffer, but some people actually report improved economy in sedate driving - most manufacters tune their vehicles to run a little rich because it builds in more safety room for reliability. BUT, if you are driving to take advantage of that new power, FE drops like a stone.
For those who want less leaning, Cobb tuning apparently now has stiffer sway bars for the '09 Forester.
As for flashing, I assume that if you took a reflashed engine in for warranty service, the reflash if detected would also void the warranty. Audi and some other manufacturers specifically state flashing ("chipping") is grounds for warranty denial.
Then again, perhaps Subaru itself will over time determine a better ECU map and offer it to previous same model purchasers either as a TSB or a paid upgrade.
Also got scratches on the glove box area, in part when someone put a foot up there to tie their shoes. Not excessive wear.
When I read about the cheap interior before I bought my Forester, I wrongly assumed that it must be from such as animals or excessive abuse. I was wrong.
Word to the wise who are buying, you will scratch the interior no matter how careful you are. Just something people need to know before making a decision.
I think I found the price for that lunch, though.
Keep in mind Subaru recommends premium fuel but doesn't require it.
Cobb states that the 265hp happens with 91 octane, and I think it's safe to say that octane would now be required.
They also say it made 270hp with 93 octane.
I've seen similar statements from other tuners - you chip a turbo and premium is absolutely mandatory.
In Japan, the octane is much higher, adding another challenge to Subaru engine programmers as they adapt their engines to American fuel.
The '07, after four months, already had some scuffs, etc., that were a permanent addition, and you can imagine that I treated the car with extra care due to its newness. For the '08, it was purchased as temporary transportation, so I treated it as though I did intend to sell it in the near future. I covered all the seats with sheets, fussed over unnecessary cabin touching, etc. Considering the light-colored interior, I must say that it was essentially as good as new after the 7500 miles I clocked, but there were two small scuffs on the passenger side dash that I could not remove. Not bad, I guess, considering a 3.5 year old boy rode there for 3,000 miles over five days.
I think the '96 would have been absolutely perfect in those conditions.
I suspect the chipped setup would actually cause engine damage in those situations.
Any how, it was a nice theory.
But I always go back to my motherhood statement. Don't buy a vehicle which requires/recommends premium if you aren't going to pay at the pump.
Stock timing is 10 degrees BTDC, but you can advance it to 14 and still use 87 octane. It's peppier that way. If you're willing to use premium fuel you can advance as far as 18 degrees. On regular fuel you will actually hear it ping as you adjust too far.
When a shop replaced my timing belt I knew the timing was off when I felt a *substantial* loss of power, as soon as I got it back I knew they had screwed up. Got my timing gun, and sure enough, they had set it to 8 degrees, more conservative than even the stock setting.
I advanced it back to 14 degrees, and she's running great again.
This is a 1993 model, I doubt there are any new models where you can set the timing manually any more.
I think it's safe to say you would be losing power on the cheap stuff with an XT turbo.
1. The engine can overheat (especially cylinder #3),
2. The CHECK ENGINE light will probably come on.
When resetting the light / ECU, the service tech can read what caused the problem.
New to the Subaru Forrester 2009 and to this forum.
I agree with all posters that report an interior that can be scuffed/scratched quite easily. This is a weak point with the car, not the fault of users or their dogs.
After driving the car for about 30 days, these are in my views about the car weak points (mine is a 2.5 X manual, non-turbo):
- Tires are cheapo, low resistance, extra fast wear type that
most manufacturers now put on their cars. To replace A.S.A.P.
- Lack of a full size spare tire.
- Interior is cheap, seats are 'hard'.
- Side mirrors are too narrow, making them less than effective.
- The steering feels too light, great for parking maneuvers, but not so at high speed.
- Poor instrument cluster lighting, and no correct adjustment at night.
- Lack of a coolant temperature gauge.
- Aux port for IPOD and MP3 is hard to reach (located inside the center armrest).
These are minor annoyances one has to accept (after all you went for a test drive before buying?). They are well overtaken by the qualities of the car such as:
- Latest safety features (VDC, side curtain airbags, etc.)
- Fantastic power starting as low as 1,500 rpm. I can't beleive it.
- Good handling, agility, and wonderful turning radius.
- Good proportions, room, and cargo space.
- Plenty of visibility.
- Good fuel economy (20+ mpg in city, with car warming up daily for 5 minutes)
- Four wheel drive with good clearance.
- Excellent price.
- Can tow up to 2,400 lbs..
- Spare tire is in the car, not under the body
- Etc.
At purchase time I allocated $2,000 for customizations, which included a full spare wheel and five General Tire Grabber AT2 (done!) and a few more mods to come.
I would certainly buy the car again.
Just my $.02
or hanging on the rear door, thus requiring a side-hinged door, which is a PITA compared to a hatch.
Like you, I feel the AWD, VDC, safety, makes it a keeper.
I, also, felt at first that the steering was too light -- now that I am used to it, it seems just right.
Bill
I'm not sure why the XT feels light on its feet. High driving position? Relatively light steering?
My brother will be pleased to hear of the fuel economy as he is considering an X-Limited. Competition, though, is the Escape Hybrid, which does far better on fuel.
I agree about the smallish mirrors, though. There used to be two sizes - small on the L/X and larger on the S/XS. Now it seems they went with one size and it's definitely not as big as the old one on the S/XS models, but it is bigger (taller mostly) than the one in my sister's 2003 X model.
My van has sofa-like soft seats, better on short drives but they lose support on longer ones. And the side mirrors are enormous. So it's pretty much the opposite on both counts.
I'd pick the Forester's seats but the Sienna's side mirrors.
Yes the interior trim has the tinsel strength of a Pringle, but it's the getting through the snow that sold us on Subaru.
A Family member is interested in both.
Our drive in '09 LT Escape Hybrid suggested it was pretty decent. Responsiveness was somewhere between XT and X. Ride, handling, and road noise weren't bad. Interior seemed a little nicer than XT's.
But at $36 K (leaving out the $3 K dealer markup), it's pricey :surprise:
I think that if you can get a bargain on one it could make sense. I looked at a loaded up model with leather, and it really fell short of expectations for the price. It was $30k and change, no-haggle price after discounts, and I took one look at the shiny leather and said "no way". Another concern is the windows were chopped and that compromised visibility somewhat, not to mention the platform dates to MY2000 (which is really my biggest qualm with it).
Having said that, I think I would not have the same objections if it were priced a lot lower. Also, the new 2.5l engine is a big improvement over the old 2.3l.
$36k *GASP* they MUST be kidding?! :surprise:
Still, though, while I consider fuel economy important, I'm not willing to take the interior that goes along with it. Ford builds those for rental fleets and stripped 4 cylinder models sell in the high teens, and you can tell.
Basically I think the Forester is just a much better platform to begin with. The Ford hybrid is worth $26k, but not $36k, no way no how.
time to remake the cost of the hybrid given a particular cost of gasoline;
Assume 10000 miles per year; gas cost $4.00 per gallon
Best case driving habits:
Subaru uses 501 gallons of fuel per year
$2,004.83 total cost per year
Escape uses 356 gallons of fuel per year
$1,425.29 total cost per year
Worst case driving habits:
Subaru uses 662 gallons of fuel per year
$2,646.38 total cost per year
Escape uses 470 gallons of fuel per year
$1,881.38 total cost per year
Difference in yearly cost, worst case:
(additional figures based on adjusting yearly mileage):
$579.54 for 10,000 miles yearly
$289.77 for 5,000 miles yearly
Difference in the price of the cars:
$36,000 Escape Hybrid (top of line limited model)
$26,000 Forester X-Limited (top of line conventional engine model)
$10,000 price difference.
Time to make back the Escape purchase price difference with gas savings from worst case driving:
20,000 miles per year; 8.5 years
10,000 miles per year; 17 years
5,000 miles per year; 34 years
The rating applies to the X series only. The XT's have insufficient data.
CU charts are strange beasts. They can appear to say one thing (the '09's have many better than average marks) but end up meaning something else ("used car reliability" is the overall ranking).
Disappointing, but not unexpected for a first year car.
The XT holds its own wrt road noise (a big surprise), handling and acceleration. It also has a little more usable cargo space.
XT looses big against the Lexus wrt interior finish, sound system and engine quietness.
But...surprise, surprise, I saw some of the same switchgear on both cars, and the door lock systems are very similar, right down to the tones the cars make when opening/locking doors.
Thanks.
Bill
This was before and after replacing stock Geolanders with Nokians.
year now, and just clicked over 11,000 miles.
I have never noticed any vibrations in the steering wheel. I've also been fortunate
to not have experienced any of the interior squeak/rattle/scuff issues that others have posted about. My vehicle rides solid.
Like most of the Forester owners who post here - I remain satisfied overall with my decision to buy the Forester (I'm a 1st time subie owner). I especially love the M/T, adequate engine power, big sunroof, very good fuel economy, integrated IPOD i/f, and AMAZING performance in snow & incremental weather. I have no complaints with the quality of the interior (except the factory stereo needing upgraded speakers to sound decent).
My largest concern lies with the quality of the exterior paint and sheet metal...it seems thin and easy to dent/scratch. Only time will tell whether the exterior wears well as the miles rack up... so far, I've gotten a few fairly minor dings/scratches.
Hope this helps in your new vehicle selection...good luck!
Did it happen to you on the same stretch of road? At which speed?
Which version of the 2009 where you test driving (turbo/non-turbo?, etc.?
I think that the front is made to crumble on purpose on most new cars.
The idea here is that if you hit a pedestrian (e.g. kid jumping out of nowhere), you don't kill him as the car absorbs the impact (maybe others can confirm?).
So, repair cost is a stinker, but better that than having nightmares killing a kid...
I wonder if it's one or both of these that might develop flat spots if parked for a long time in cold.
I've not seen this flatspotting problem with Nokians.
....and as a sidenote, the folks in S. California are enjoying a closed I-5 because snow fell over roughly 50 miles of it.
A lot of cars down there can't cope with rain. In snow, it would be a regular bumper car fest.
-Frank
Nice thought but not accurate. Crumple zones are almost exclusively intended to protect just the vehicle's occupants.
-Frank