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Comments
... weight savings perhaps or a pricing target? :sick:
I love the active headrests. For me, they are quite perfect and help make long drives quite a pleasure.
I actually don't care how "active" the headrests are.... I just like the new shape of the headrests. They come to a point on the front of the top, and so will support the head in a perfectly upright position as opposed to the slightly (or significantly, depending on the vehicle) reclined position of the "old style" head rests.
That means I can rest my head while looking straight forward as opposed to "looking down" with the old style. I hope that makes sense....
The sound happens when the vehicle is traveling over rough road, especially when the roughness is on the passenger side. It is not tied to the suspension, but is affected by the size of the "bumping" as I drive. It becomes frequent at speeds of 15-30 but I think this is just because you pass over more "bumps" faster at those speeds. It IS there at slow speed and at high speed. It is driving me nuts. I don't mind little rattles or buzzes, but this is way more. HELP!
I have an appointment on 12/23 to address my door rattles (I hope!), but I just know the dealership is going to say they didn't hear anything, even though this rattle is so consistent I could set my watch by it. I also have started hearing a rattle in the back.... it is quite loud and almost drowns out the door rattles! My initial suspicion is the latch on the rear seat-back behind the driver's seat.
the worst noises however are coming from the top of the armrest when I rest my elbow on it. naturally, the service manager took the car for a drive and said all was quiet except he did observe the armrest rattle and said their was nothing he could do about it. I tried explaining to him that all these rattles are subject to both road smoothness, speed travel and even more importantly the temperature The rattle in the sunroof header is worse since being replaced.
I will monitor the rattles a bit longer and then go to the next level with my dissatisfaction.Any suggestions are welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
Here is a photo running mine at 68 mph:
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2010.html
The XT is geared tallest. It has the taller final drive ratio of the 2.5x manual, combined with the tallest overdrive gear of the 2.5 automatic.
If you want UBER-tall gearing get an Outback CVT. At 80mph it's barely idling along at a hair over 2000rpm. :surprise:
Best among non-hybrid SUVs by a wide margin.
Enjoy the day, folks!
Undecide between the Forester and the Outback. Two things stopping us from getting the Forester are the low passenger seat and the unavailability of electric passenger seats(Canada).
We enjoy road trips and am concerned that the above complaints will make these trips less enjoyable.
Your thoughts would be much appreciated.
Happy Thanksgiving!
I modded my Miata's seat track. It wasn't hard at all.
I just gotta find the motivation. Shouldn't be hard, a few washers on the seat bolt mounts. How high you can go will depend on the length of the bolts. On my Miata I bought larger bolts from NAPA and raised 'em 3/8".
I also got the dead pedal back about the same amount, 3/8" or so.
The passenger seat track isn't bolted down, it's riveted down, looks like 5 pretty heavy-duty rivets. The rear center mount has 2, each other corner has just 1. Like these but a lot thicker:
All 5 are accessible from above. They could be drilled out from the top, and replaced with bolts of the similar size and thickness. The tops of the bolts would have to be rounded off as to not interfere with the sliding seat track. There is *plenty* of clearance below all 5 mounting points, so no problem with clearance from below.
So all it would take it drilling out those 5 rivets, replacing them with 5 nuts and bolts, and putting washers or some other spacer (boxed steel?) inbetween. Don't go too crazy so as not to modify the design of the seat from a safety standpoint.
The only fit/finish issue is the rear of the seat tracks has some plastic gray covers that match the interior. You could cut them and then glue the tops back on the now-higher seat track, but you'll have a gap the same size as your lift.
To be honest this doesn't seem like too difficult a project. You'll need a strong drill that can drill through the metal rivets, and maybe a ratchet set, but that's about all the tools you'd need.
Unfortunately it's cold outside, but this just may be a project for a warm day.
Are you in the Mid-Atlantic region? If so maybe we could team up on this project. It's always easier with an extra set of hands.
- I've not yet had a chance to test drive the new '10 Outback, but typically you are going to find a higher quality interior with the Outback versus the Forester.
- I think both are equally good as far as their safety and ability to handle inclement weather (deep snow, etc).
- The Forester probably has a bit more cargo space (with more vertical height), while the Outback is more "station-wagon" like.
- If you want manual xmission, few (maybe none as of '10?) Outbacks offer this.
- The moonroof is much larger in the Forester (though some models of Outback offer dual, smaller, sunroofs).
Good luck with your decision (FYI - I have an '09 Forester X w/ manual xmission, and overall I am very pleased it)
I was told by another Subaru owner to check heatshield. I did last night and cant see/feel anything loose. Lets hope I have some aggressive problem seeking service people willing to take the time to address this.
I have already experienced the buzz sound from the front doors (tied to speakers playing at first, then just from driving) I can live with it, but the rattle in the back is more like knocking of two pieces, which in Vermont happens everywhere you go due to rough roads.
Also, the dual moonroofs are gone. Last model year for those was 2009.
http://www.iihs.org/ratings/
I will say this. Don't know if they tried very hard, but they treated me with a lot of respect. I can only imagine how it sounds to the guys on the other side of the counter when you come in with "rattles and clunks".
I owned 5 chrysler vehicles, and I NEVER took one in for a clunk or rattle and put 100K on 4 of them. I am hoping that the rattle can be corrected because it is very annoying. Other than that, I have been very happy with the vehicle. If they can remedy that, I think it will be all thumbs up.
I did have the service person tell me to be careful of the moonroof if you live in cold weather conditions. He said the design is flawed and will leak. Not sure if this is universal to moonroofs or a problem with Subaru...but of course I have the moonroof.
I hope you get your rattle fixed. I really think it is coming from the rear of the vehicle on mine...or the passenger rear quarter panel side. I was thinking of a cable up against the sheet metal, like the one that opens the gas door, or maybe the latch of the hatchback, although it seems solid when I shut it, I am wondering if it is an up-down motion that causes the rattle. I am driving with the hatch up to see.
Lance
Well, that's me through and through. I have not experienced any external leaks yet, but I have had it drip on me when we had a brief warm spell (warmed up to around freezing) last week. There was a heavy layer of frost on it that melted during the warm weather, causing it to drip heavily. I have started carrying a small towel in the car with me to keep it in check. This may, however, prove to be the greatest annoyance during my ownership of the vehicle.
While doing research on water leaks I found SB-12-108-09, which addresses water leaks on passenger side footwell. Not sure if this is the problem with my car, though, since the leak accumulates in panel under glove box then drips down.
Cabin Air filter replacement link
If dealers are charging $90 to do the job they are certainly taking advantage of consumer ignorance. Sheese!
When I had my '98 Forester I had the time and energy and documented nearly everything you could possibly do.
Here is the link.
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f77/diy-2009-forester-cabin-filter-repla- cement-59650/
Is the 2010 model significantly more quiet than previous versions?
Thanks.
Not sure if what Subaru is saying is true about debris from w/s replacement causing evap drain to backup and leak. Anyone know if this might be true and if evap drain is hard to clear yourself? I know for sure window company broke washer fluid lines.
I think the framed doors reduce wind noise, so there's your biggest improvement.
Generally, though, compact SUVs are tall and upright, and not exactly shaped to cheat the wind, so it's no hushed Lexus.
Did you get an OE filter replacement, or does Purolator or some aftermarket manufacturer make them as well?
Just curious.
The one in the photos sure did work, look at the used vs. new filter. We have asthma in our family so it's nice to see that stuff didn't end up in anyone's lungs! :surprise: