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Honda Odyssey Alignment Problems

zuraxuszuraxus Posts: 14
Since the first day that I picked up my new '07 Odyssey I felt that van is pulling to the left a little. I did address this issue to the dealer right a way and after little hesitation they put did the alignment. Results were Ok, they told me that everything was within manufacturer's specifications, butt hey made a little touch to make perfect. When I picked the van up from the dealer I ttok the car on highway and I felt the same "pull" again. I tried different roads, change the lines, considering road profiles, but even the road was profiled to the right, van is still pulling to the left at high speed (50-60 m/h and over). I already put about 8k miles on the van and mainly highway miles and I know that is not right. 2 weeks ego I made the appointment with local dealer to pay for the alignment from my packet, I just want to get over with, after service was done I noticed that there is $ 0.00 balance on my bill, I asked why??????? my answer was: " Sir, Your alignment is so perfect that we didn't even touched, everything is right on mark"
An body know what could be the problem, what I should do in this case, van is still pulling to the side and is very frustrating on the highway, when I can't just have wheel freely in my hands only I have to apply constant force to counterbalance the pull. Thank you for advise.
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Comments

  • dvhagandvhagan Posts: 14
    My new 2008 Ody Touring pulled to the left and the steering wheel was also be too far counter-clockwise when the car was going straight ahead. The dealer corrected the steering wheel position and changed the toe back to original factory specks and it now does not pull left. Compared to my 2001 T & C, more effort is required to keep the vehicle going straight. Seems as if more force is required to activate the steering mechanism. The Honda service technician said that most '08s seemed to wander a slight bit in the center and just required more input from the driver. Other problems encountered was a rattle in the passenger sliding door (loose bolt corrected) and headlight aiming off. They will need to be set lower as just the slightest load in the rear drops the vehicle enough that you get constant reminders from oncoming vehicles. Any other '08 problems people have encountered?
    Thanks, dvhagan
  • gotribegotribe Posts: 101
    Honda vehicles track very straight unless there is a problem. Service techs that say pulling right or left is "normal" on a reasonably flat road are just flat out wrong. The first thing to confirm is that the tire pressures are set correctly--I'm assuming someone's already done this. As far as alignment is concerned, I've owned 8 Hondas and have never had factory alignment be set wrong. Very unlikely. Most likely IMO is a tire with a slipped belt or some other defect. Try switching the tires front to rear to see if that corrects the problem.
  • dvhagandvhagan Posts: 14
    Tire pressure has been checked many times cold. The dealer did cross (X rotation) front to rear at the time they changed the toe. Again it does not pull left or right now that it was changed to the factory spec. The showed me the before and after readings and it was out. What they said appeared to be normal is a very slight "wandering" straight ahead with no road crown present. The front end mechanic said I was not the first to ask about the "wandering" and increased steering pressure feel. He said something has changed in '08. He had talked to some technical people at a higher level with Honda about the problem. Tire problems were also discussed and one of the alignment persons suggested checking again after the tires had worn after perhaps 8,000 miles.
    Thanks for your input.
    dvhagan
  • I just bought Odyssey EX. I have the exact similar problem. I have the same increased steering pressure. It has got around 300 miles. The dealer said they will check the steering and rotate the tires. I have the appt. next week. Will keep you posted.
  • zuraxuszuraxus Posts: 14
    thx. just to let u know, I had alignment checked twice, there was no improvement, finally I did tire rotation and that took care of the problem, that means is a bad tire that is cosing this problem, if u still have a chance try to claim the tire via your local dealer were u got your car from, if not let them bring this case to Michelin for you ( new car warranty cover everything except tires). good luck. Let me know...
  • dvhagandvhagan Posts: 14
    Thanks for the reply concerning your bad tire. My dealer did suggest putting around 8,000 miles on the tires and then re-evaluate. Honda evidently just requires more steering wheel pressure to initiate a turn- I have a Lexus RX350 loaner today while my older Lexus is being serviced. The RX350 has a nice "light" steering feel and shows no tendency to wander while going straight down the road. The only other thing that I have noticed is the awareness of when the engine goes from running on all six cylinders down to fewer in the ECO mode.
  • zurazus,

    Your post states my experience so well I could of written it. I picked up my Odyssey in August and complained after 300 miles. Along with the van pulling to the left, when moving around 5 mph the steering wheel will twist back and forth in my hand if there is any bumps in the road. Sometimes it will dart left or right while moving at a moderate speeds. After a alignment and with no improvement I was told that the problem was "lot rot" and to put 4 to 5 k miles on it and see if the problem went away. Well after 7k miles I took it back and they rotated the tires and it helped quite a lot but still not close to the way the demos felt. Today I called the dealer and told them that they had convinced me that the problem was in the tires and that I expected them to replace them with four new tires. As of now I am waiting to hear back from the service manager to see what he can do about it. Will post the outcome later.
  • As to the tires- My service department in Des Moines told me that they put three different sets of tires on one Odyssey before it was correct. As for the increased steering pressure, one of the mechanics told me that there were problems a "few years back" and he had worked on over 40 vehicles making changes, I assumed in the steering gear components. Another said that the pressure component is now all electronic and he did not know of any way to change that. I still feel the odd steering when I am making minor changes on a curvy road. It is like the vehicle has a mind of it's own as to steering direction. As to the feel of the vehicle in the ECO mode when it drops cylinders- The Wall Street Journal had a review of an '08 Accord (compared to a Malibu), and he said the ECO mode feel bothered him because his being aware when it was "dropping" cylinders. After my alignment to correct toe at 800 miles, it will go straight on a perfectly level road with no apparent crown. When there is a crown, you have to keep at the wheel to correct the pull. Thanks for your input.
  • Had problem with my 07 Odyssey pulling to the right. Dealer checked out, said it was in specs and still pulled to right. He then ordered concentric bolts and installed to bring camber adjustment to perfect, that did the trick, now drives straight. Honda says everything is OK if unless it completely changes lanes in 5 seconds when letting go of wheel.....wrong in my opinion.
  • crazyloucrazylou Posts: 1
    Same problem: Odyssey 2007, pulls to left. Had it aligned twice, no help. Honda says it is normal, I say it is not. The car will follow the crown of the road too much. Considering calling for Honda representative to look at car. My other cars have never done this. Dpon't let hands off wheel even for a second.
  • mikesingmikesing Posts: 7
    I have the same problem with my 07 honda, with the pulling to the left my wife says she has to always put pressure to keep it straight.At my last inspection the dealership told me everything is ok...but if
    you let go of the steering it will go acrosss 3 lanes.When i drive the car i always feel i clicking & slight vibration in the steering wheel like something isn't right from time to time .My 99 ford taurus doesn't do any of these things and has a smoother ride i feel everybit of the road with my honda..HAS ANYONE HEARD OF AS RECALL ON THIS STEARING ISSUE!!!!!
  • cr40cr40 Posts: 57
    I am having the same experience as all of you who posted in this forum. I purchased an 08 Odyssey EX-L approx. 1 month ago. I initially noticed that the steering wheel was a little off center, cocked slightly to the left in rest position (when driving straight) and vehicle was pulling to the right. I took it into the dealer and they straightened the steering wheel (still seems a hair off but closer to straight) and they said I did not need an alignment. I took the car on a trip and upon returning, went back to the dealer and told them it was still pulling to the right. When I got the vehicle back, they said it did not need an alignment, but instead, they rotated the tires from front to back and that the problem was due to the vehicle sitting on the lot, that the tires get flat in spots. I left the dealership with the vehicle and drove right back after testing for 20 minutes on various roads and the highway. When I returned to the dealership, they put it on the alignment machine and printed out specs showing it was within normal limits. I told them it was still pulling. They told me to come back to the dealership once they got advice from Honda on what to do next. I returned and left the vehicle there all day (got loaner car.) The service manager advised Honda told them to take the rims and tires off another new Odyssey of the same model and try that. The service manager advised that they tried two different vehicles out before removing the rims and tires and they both pulled even worse than mine. They went ahead and put those on mine anyway and that and it did not help. They put my rims and tires back on (according to them) and now the alignment and pulling issues are even worse. They then did something called "road force" that tells them at what degree to mount the tire onto the rim. This made the vehicle even worse. Now, the steering wheel is slightly off to the left, the car pulls to the right mostly, sometimes pulls to the left, requires much pressure to keep the vehicle straight on the road, etc. It does not feel safe and does not feel right. I told the service manager that I feel fatigued from having to constantly compensate for the steering issues. I have owned Hondas and Acuras in the past, so I know this is not normal for Honda. I have also owned Lexus, Toyota, Volvo, etc. and know this is not proper or safe for any vehicle. Throughout this process, the service advisor and service manager claim that this is normal behavior for the Odyssey, but I know there is a problem. At one point on a test drive after repair, they told me that Honda's rule is that a vehicle pull is normal as long as it doesn't completely change lanes within 6 seconds. Now I have an appointment to meet with someone else within Honda that is coming down. I believe the service manager said he oversees all Honda service within my state. I have mentioned to the dealer that I am considering filing lemon law.
  • zuraxuszuraxus Posts: 14
    wow, you went thru a lot...sorry. I had my car twice at the different dealer ships and all the time I been showed the print out from the alignment machine and explanation that everything is according to the Honda's specifications. When I rotated the wheels on my own i noticed that the pulling is gone...the van acted very normal on the road, of course pulled to the side if the road wasn't even but comper to the pilling that I had before it was acceptable...
    But couple weeks ego I noticed that the pulling is coming back again...I have about 12k on my van already and I don't want to wast more time with dealer ships and theirs mechanics...I think I will leave it the way it is unless Honda will admit to some kind of defect on make a recall. Thx. again for sharing this with us.
  • giantmangiantman Posts: 7
    I have 10K on my 2007 Odyssey EX. Very similar to the above posts, I have taken mine to the dealership now 3 times. I have noticed my car pulling to the left mainly with freeway driving mostly in the center and left lanes. The center lane being the crown point of the road, I was unable to accept the dealerships response that the car was following the slope of the road. The last time, they came to the conclusion that the car must be designed to pull hard to the left while on the freeway. They had me drive another Odyssey and sure enough that car was just as bad on the freeway. I have still not accepted this explanation and have requested the Honda Rep for the dealership to contact me. No contact as of yet, so I think I will have to formalize this in a letter. I don't think that this pulling at high speeds can be safe. :lemon:
  • hondaman35hondaman35 Posts: 3
    They key thing is you need to get these guys to drive your vehicle and see what is occuring. In the last 5 months, I have taken my vehicle 4 times two 2 diff dealers and each time was charged alignment, rotation and sent on my merry way. I was about to give up, looking to purchase another vehicle, but before I made this costly move, I called the Service Manager at my dealer and who was nice enough to look at my vehicle.

    So, I just picked up my Odyssy after 2 full days in the shop. They tried everything, including swapping the wheels, alignment, rotation, you name it. The dealer actually dealt with the Honda tech line as they could not figure it out.

    Turns out that it was in the strut area. They disassembled the struts and found springs seats were not aligned and bearings were tight. They aligned the caps and seats and replaced the bearings. All this under warrantly and now problem is solved. I was told that this was actually put into a "national database" where technicians can share this information.

    I think this is a common issue as I think my sister-in-law has the similar van and is having similar issues. Good luck and don't give up!
  • Hey, thanks for your posting Hondaman35. Took copy of posting to my dealer's service manager. He asked me for the following:
    1. What year is your Odyssey.
    2. What is the name and location of the dealer that fixed the problem.
    3. What is your VIN if you would be so kind.
    Thanks, any or all will be appreciated.
  • kids_vankids_van Posts: 2
    Thank you all for the posting!

    I have the same problem with my 08 EXL (we bought it 04/11/08) and up to this time it was not yet resolved. I went to the dealer twice. First, they told me that there’s no problem. On second time I did a test drive with the technician and he was convinced that there was a pulling issue and wobbles whenever it hits a bump specially the front left tire. We drove the car last weekend and the pull was still noticeable everytime I’m in the leftmost/fast lane (asphalt surface). The wobble is obvious when it hits a bump specially going in/out of our drive way though there’s no pull when in a flat cemented surface.

    I’ll going to show this posting to the service advisor/manager and let see what they will do next.

    More power!
  • giantmangiantman Posts: 7
    What happened to post 18? I wanted to share that with my dealer. Honda Man, can you at least re-post the dealership?
  • The pulling fix is message #16, there is an option that will take you to it.
  • giantmangiantman Posts: 7
    But post 18 had the dealership name. I am meeting with the regional Honda Rep next week and wanted to give him the dealership to contact. I think it was Georgia, and a guy named Mike. If the name violates the blog policy, can I get just the dealership name?
  • Since can't show names here's the fix:
    "Turns out it was in the strut area. They disassembled the struts and found spring seats were not aligned and bearings were tight. They aligned the caps and seats and replaced the bearings. All this under warranty and now problem is solved. I was told that this was actually put into a 'national database' where technicians can share this information"
  • Honda Carland, Roswell GA
  • cr40cr40 Posts: 57
    Update on my Odyssey:

    Since my previous post, I inflated the tires evenly. The vehicle still has pulling issues. It occasionaly pulls to the right, depending on the road but now predominantly pulls to the left. Additionally, my steering still is very odd. The wheel jerks back and forth in my hands, feels like there is more resistance and requires more pressure to turn it to the right and more play and less resistance to turn it to the left. The dealership never returned my calls or emails to confirm my appointment with the Honda rep, so I didn't get to see him. Now I am scheduled to meet him later this month. I gave my service manager the information from the post of the fix in Georgia. He looked the information up and said nothing has been posted in the database and nothing was pending posting. I asked him to call the previously mentioned service advisor in Georgia for more information. I am gathering all my documentation in case they cannot fix this problem, preparing to consider filing lemon law. I really like everything else about the vehicle, but it is not safe and is very uncomfortable to drive with the steering and alignment issues. I also called my salesman today to let him know of the issues.
  • Apparently you haven't had the 'soft brake pedal problem' that I have had. It's a great vehicle otherwise.
  • kids_vankids_van Posts: 2
    Please checkout this website 'http://www.aa1car.com/library/steerpul.htm' this will help you identify what type of pull you're experiencing and may want to discuss it with the service dept. Mine I believe is a bump steer problem.
  • dvhagandvhagan Posts: 14
    I had the #2 post. On my trip from AZ to Colorado today, I still notice pulling to the left, even with a very strong side wind coming from the left. Is pulling to the left a trend in all the above posts? My dealer in Des Moines suggested that more miles on the tires might make some difference- I am at 5000 miles now and still feeling the pull to the left even after an alignment at 500 miles. I am taking print outs of all the above posts to my service department next week. Is there anything in the Honda database about the "strut issue" that the above posts reference to?
  • Dealers just love to blame tires and in my experience Michelins just don't have many problems. Let me us know what your dealer finds out about the strut issue. I haven't got back to my service manager on the strut thing yet but gave him the info.
    What do you think of the brakes, I've had an 07 now this 08 and find them abnormally soft and have got an open case on this with Honda in Torrance, CA. They give me a scare each time used in an emergency stop.
  • cr40cr40 Posts: 57
    It's interesting that you mention the brakes. I was driving several days ago, still testing my steering and pulling issues and I was thinking...wow, my van doesn't feel new anymore, the brakes already feel lower. I dismissed the thought since I was focused on the other issues. My brakes are still working good, but I will certainly monitor this. Thanks for the info.
  • dvhagandvhagan Posts: 14
    I have noticed the brakes issue. They are much better than my 01 T & C. I like everything about the 08 except my arm gets tired keeping the steering wheel pulling to the right. The service person at my Des Moines dealership said that "the 08's just seem to require being more involved with the steering wheel as compared to the '07's". I did drive friend's 06's and they seemed to steer straight with no pull.
  • See the 117 posts on Odyssey brakes, mostly on soft pedal problem.
  • cr40cr40 Posts: 57
    Thanks so much for posting that website. It is very informative. It has really helped me to clarify the specifics of my steering/pulling issues (which are several on the list).
  • giantmangiantman Posts: 7
    4th time to dealer last week and met with Regional Honda Rep with full intentions of droping a few "lemon law" references. Went for a long ride and they were trying to tell me that the car was running as designed. Once back in the shop, they looked at the alignment and found it was out of alignment with respect to the "toe". Although steering wheel now points to 11:00 the car seems to drive straight. I am waiting to see if the alignment will hold before completely determining that the issue is resolved. But for now, it appears to be better.
  • cr40cr40 Posts: 57
    Hi Giantman,

    Keep us posted...I want my car to drive straight and I want my steering wheel to be straight. There must be something very wrong if the steering wheel has to be crooked to have the car drive straight. My appointment with the Regional Honda Rep was pushed back a few days. I will post the results of that visit when it is done.
  • mikesingmikesing Posts: 7
    Hi ...

    Im still having pulling & steering issues and are afraid of being jerked around by my dealership but 100% agree with you that for 26000 dollars i should have a van that drives straight.my 2007 odyssey has less than 10000 miles and i cannot believe this is happening to so many odyssey owners... how did you make out with the reg rep...have you any advice for me before i go to the dealer and become annoyed and what area's of the lemon law does this cover??
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Some Tire Defective, example CONICITY, can't be detached by regular tire balance. The problem can start as soon as new car or right after first tire rotation when the defective one was at rear and put to the front.

    Find the tire company equipped with HUNTER GSP9700 machine. This machine can detect this problem by perform a test called "Road Force"
    http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/images/flash/gsp9710/allmovies.cfm
    Locate GSP9700 http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm

    Below is detailed explanation

    CONICITY

    When the belts are positioned as a tire is being built, they must be almost perfectly centered. According to some sources, if the belts are off center by more than one millimeter, it may be enough to cause a steering pull in some applications (some tires and/or vehicles are more sensitive to this kind of problem than others). The position of the outermost belt is the most important because it has the greatest effect on the directional stability of the tire.

    A tire with an off-center belt will lead to one side because the location of the belt shifts more weight to one side of the tread than the other. This condition is known as a "conicity" problem, and occurs because the tire behaves as it if were cone-shaped. A cone always rolls in a circular path towards the pointed end. A conicity pull will therefore always be directional (either to the left or right), and can be reversed by switching the front tires from side to side, or by mounting the offending tire backwards on the rim.

    Conicity problems can also arise when the beads are not in the same plane. The resulting difference in sidewall height and loading will create the same unbalanced steering forces that make the tire want to roll towards the shorter side.

    Conicity problems are usually most noticeable on the front wheels, but may affect tracking and induce some rear axle steer on vehicles with independent rear suspensions. Vehicles with less caster also seem to be more sensitive to conicity probably because high caster angles have a stabilizing effect on the steering.

    If you're trying to diagnose a steering pull and suspect a tire may have a conicity problem, rule out the other possibilities first. Check inflation pressure in both front tires and make sure it is equal on both sides. Low pressure can cause a pull towards the side with less pressure. Compare tire sizes and tread wear on both sides. Measure tread wear, too, because the steering will pull towards the side with the "shorter" tire (the one with the most tread wear). Also, check ride height and make sure it is within specs and is equal on both sides. The steering will usually pull towards the low side. Check for brake drag. A frozen or sticky caliper can cause a pull towards the side that's dragging.

    Next, switch the left and right front tires to see what effect it has on the steering. If the steering still pulls in the same direction, the problem isn't the tires. Check for camber or caster misalignment, or the presence of a rear axle thrust angle. If the direction of the pull is now reversed, one or both front tires may have a conicity problem.

    The next step would be to swap the front and rear wheels on one side (right or left) to see if it eliminates the pull. No change would tell you it's the other front tire that's causing the problem. Swapping the other front tire to the rear should eliminate the problem as long as the offending tire remains in the rear. But if somebody rotates the tires later on and the bad tire ends up back in the front again, the steering pull will return. Replacing the offending tire will get rid of the problem altogether, and may be necessary if the tire causes problems in the rear, too.

    Another way to reduce the effects of a conicity problem is to increase the inflation pressure of the tire. But the tradeoff may be a harsher ride and increased center wear in the tread.

    VIBRATIONS

    Though vibrations are usually caused by an out-of-balance wheel and tire assembly, it's important to remember that vibrations can also be caused by excessive radial (vertical) and lateral (sideways) runout in the tire, wheel or hub. Loose, worn or damaged wheel bearings as well as certain kinds of tread wear can also cause annoying vibrations.

    When troubleshooting the cause of a vibration problem, start by inspecting the wheels. Look for evidence of missing weights, mud or dirt packed in the back of the rim or debris embedded in the tread that could create an imbalance. Also, rotate and wiggle each wheel by hand to check for excessive play or noise from the wheel bearings.

    If a vehicle has alloy rims (particularly a performance or sports type vehicle), tire slippage on the rim may have thrown the assembly out of balance. This can happen if a long-lasting lubricant such as silicone is applied to the rim or tire bead when the tires are mounted. Under hard acceleration or braking, the tire may actually rotate slightly on the rim. The cure? Remove the wheels, put the wheel and tire on your tire machine and break loose both beads. Thoroughly clean both mating surfaces, then reinflate the tire to reseat the beads and rebalance the assembly.

    If the radial cords in the sidewalls of a tire are not spaced evenly or are damaged, it can create a "waddle" or vibration due to force variations in the stiffness of the sidewall as the tire rotates. This condition, which is referred to as "loaded runout," is most noticeable at low speed (5 to 30 mph), and may also appear as ride roughness at highway speeds (50 to 70 mph). A Tire Problem Detector may help you diagnose this kind of problem. This device has a roller that can be positioned under a tire so you can check for spindle movement while rotating the tire slowly with the weight of the vehicle pressing down on it.

    Another source of vibration can be uneven tread wear. Run your hand across the tread in both directions. If one way feels rougher than the other (like toe wear), lack of rotation may have caused a heel-and-toe or sawtooth wear pattern to develop on the tread blocks. This kind of wear is most often found on the rear tires of front-wheel drive cars. The wear may be barely perceptible to the naked eye, but is rough enough to produce an annoying vibration at medium to high speeds that feels like a bad wheel bearing. Rotating the tires once this kind of wear has developed is a waste of time because it takes too many miles to scrub off the uneven wear. New tires would be recommended.

    Scalloped wear on a tire would tell you the tire is bouncing as it rolls along because it is out-of-balance, out-of-round or the shocks are weak.

    Be sure to measure tread depth, too. Measuring tread depth at several points around the circumference of the tire will tell you if the tread is wearing evenly and if the depth is equal. A difference of more than about 1/16th inch (.0625 inches) would indicate an out-of-round condition. Most tires should probably
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Most tires should probably have less than .050 inch of radial run-out, and some even less depending on how sensitive the vehicle's steering and suspension (and driver) is to vibration.

    TIRE RUNOUT
    An out-of-round condition can be confirmed by measuring radial runout on the vehicle with a dial indicator. Position the tip of the pointer against the center of the tread and slowly rotate the tire until you've found the high and low points. If the difference is more than .050 inches, you've found the problem.

    If you don't have a dial indicator, the "poor man's" alternative is to use a piece of chalk and a block of wood. Use the wood to support the chalk. Spin the tire by hand and move the chalk closer until it just touches the tire. This will mark the high spot. If the mark extends less than half way around the tire and you see an air gap between the tire and chalk that's as wide or wider than a nickel at its widest point, the tire has too much runout.

    You can attempt to correct runout by repositioning the tire on the rim to match the tire's high spot with the rim's low spot. By the same token, you can minimize potential runout problems when mounting new tires by aligning these two spots if the tire manufacturer provides a mark that shows you where the high spot is on the tire.

    On some vehicles, the low spot on the rim may be marked with a paint dot inside the rim dropwell. Ford and Chrysler do this on their steel rims. Most steel replacement rims are similarly marked. General Motors and most Japanese vehicle manufacturers use the valve hole to mark the low spot. This is also the case on most aluminum and polycast rims as well as unmarked rims. Medium truck (20 inch or larger) steel tubeless disc wheels have a dimple or small indentation to mark the low spot on the same side of the rim as the valve hole.

    Of course, you can always find the low spot on a rim by mounting it on a balancer and using a dial indicator on the bead on the rim.

    Once the tire high spot and rim low spot have been found, rotate the tire so the two line up. Or, if you suspect runout but don't know where the high and low sports are and don't have a dial indicator to find them, try rotating the tire 180 degrees on the rim to see if that reduces runout. If runout is now less than specs, or the vibration has ceased, congratulate yourself because you've solved the problem. But if it still exceed specs or still shakes at speed, you have to make a decision.

    A tire with too much runout can be buffed or shaved on a tire truing machine. But removing tread obviously reduces the remaining service life of the tire, so this approach would not be recommended unless the runout can be eliminated with minimal tread removal.

    Lateral runout on the tire should also be checked. If more than .050 inches, measure lateral runout in the wheel and compare the two to determine which one has the problem. If the wheel is within specifications but the tire is not, the tire has too much runout and needs to be replaced.

    With wheels, the amount of lateral and radial runout that's acceptable will vary according to the application. Alloy wheels on small cars with MacPherson strut suspensions are much more sensitive to both kinds of runout than steel wheels on larger rear-wheel drive vehicles. If lateral (sideways) or radial (vertical) runout exceed specifications, the wheel should be replaced.

    As a rule, a wheel with more than .050 inches of radial runout or is more than .025 to .035 inch out-of-round can cause problems. Lateral runout may be excessive if it exceeds .035 inches on a steel rim, or .020 inches on an alloy rim. Some vehicles are so sensitive to lateral runout that a difference of only .008 to .010 inches side-to-side can cause a noticeable vibration in the steering.

    The only cure for a wheel with too much lateral runout is replacement (though there are aftermarket services that can straighten and repair expensive alloy wheels).

    Radial runout on a vehicle can sometimes be reduced be reindexing the wheel on the hub. If moving the wheel one or two lug positions fails to reduce runout, hub runout may be the problem. As a rule, hub runout as measured at the lugs should not vary more than .030 inch.
  • We bought our 2008 Touring Odysses in March 08. Started hearing noises, took to the dealership(I thought the steering belt was making noises), so they looked at the van and asked me to come back because the struts are BAD. So on my next trip both left and right struts were changed but then I was told that the two rods that connect the frame of the van with the body are missing bolts and it is too dangerous to drive(had been dangerous since we bought the van). So, we got the van back after 5 days, now with bolts that help connect the body with the frame. I have noticed pulling also but did not pay too much attention to the pulling until now. Will test it out and take back to the dealer, on my 5th trip. Asked Honda for guarantee for security and extended warranty which they refused. Now I am also expeiencing that the 3rd row seat belts do not lock properly that are used for child car seat. Anyone with that experience?
    Thanks.
  • walczakwalczak Posts: 5
    I am so glad to see others posting about this problem. I originally started noticing this problem back in October but couldn't find any other prople having the same issue. I just now checked again and I'm glad I did. I am not alone. I have had the car in the shop several times with a couple different dealers. They've replaced the struts and the strut mounts, the steering rack and one other thing that has to do with camber. They tried a set of wheels from a 2008 oddysey. They did a couple of alignments and everything was dead-on. Nothing worked. Even honda ran out of suggestions. After that they started telling me that it was a "characteristic" of the van. They said they drove 3 other 2007s and that they all did the same thing to varying degrees. I asked to drive them and they said they just sold all 3 of them. I put in a customer care complaint, so they sent a district service guy out to drive it. I showed him the problem. He didn't say anything. He drove, but never took his hands off the wheel. He just said it was a "characteristic" and that all cars "drift". He refused to use the word "pull". He also said that he did not consider the van to have a "problem". I asked why they were trying to repair it for me if it wasn't broken. He said that they wanted to make my driving experience more enjoyable.

    I have had the car in 4-5 times, once for almost 2 weeks. I've spent countless hours of my time on this problem and it is no better than when I started. I feel like after spending $27000 for a car it should not pull and they act like its no big deal. I bought a Honda because of the supposed quality. The Odyssey in particular is supposed to be highly rated. This was my first import. I got fed up with GM. I also read alot of user opinions saying how Honda stood behind their product. Some were getting warranty repairs after their warranty was up. I was impressed. Well Honda is not standing behind their product in this case. They have told me that there's no more they can do for me and that this is just a characteristic of the van. I am convinced that this is a manufacturing defect in the van and that they know it and its too expensive to acknowledge it.

    Here are the particulars of my problem. They have started referring to it as "memory steer". If you go to a parking lot and crank the wheel all the way to the left to drive in a circle and then let the wheel go, it never comes back to center. It makes it back to about 9 or 10 o'clock. If you do the same to the right it comes almost perfectly back to 12'oclock all on its own. On the road, this means that when I make left turns, it pulls left from that point on. When I make right hand turns, it drives true for a while, but eventually starts pulling left again. At high speeds the pull is really noticeable. If I drive in the left (passing) lane on a highway, the crown adds to it and it pulls off the road within 1-2 seconds. This makes highway driving really uncomfortable. On long drives, my hands start to cramp after a while from holding the wheel to stop it from pulling. If I drive in the right hand lane, it still pulls, just slower and will eventually fight its way over the crown of the road. Once it makes it over, it really starts to pull fast. ON a flat surface street, it pulls out of its lane in a few seconds.

    I started this process back in october when it had 10000 miles (it took me a while to figure out the whole memory steer and what was happening), but I suspect it was doing it from day one. Now I have over 17000 miles on it and still no resolution.

    I had no choice but to open up a claim with the BBB autoline. They asked me to send one more request for repair via certified mail before filing which I did. Honda setup one final repair attempt and it failed. I'm supposed to have my hearing sometime next week. Wish me luck.
  • zuraxuszuraxus Posts: 14
    Haw did you dou with your hearing. I started this thread as soon as i bought the car and I didn't know that so many Odyssey drivers will have these problems with pulling.
    I give up on this subject and just waiting for this day when Honda will admit that there is the mistake on there side, that's constructors mistake...but so far they trying so hard to keep this quiet. I hope that they will post it on national bulletin and I could go to the dealer and fix the problem right a way. I drive with the van a lot , since sept. of 2007 when I bought the van I have already 18k miles and still putting up with this annoying problem. I hope this day is coming soon. thx. and good luck.
  • See #23 above, this may be your fix if you can get a dealer to do it.
  • walczakwalczak Posts: 5
    The hearing seemed to go OK. But those (BBB) guys have good poker faces, so I have no idea which way he was leaning. The hearing was tuesday, he said he makes a decision (written) in 3 days which was friday. So I could receive something as early as today.

    P.S. I'm glad you started this thread, I was starting to think I was the only one having this problem. I really think Honda has a major design flaw (that is too expensive to correct) in its steering and they're trying to hide it. They went from really trying to work with me and correct the problem to pretending there was no problem at all and using alot of CYA/Legal type speak.
  • zuraxuszuraxus Posts: 14
    Thx. for your respond. I called my local Honda dealer this morning, I insisted to speak to the shop manager, told him about my problem, informed him that there is a problem with this cars allover the country and all the Honda's forums talking about it. Of course he denied about any problems, there is nothing in the national bulletin about this issue. I made appointment for this Thursday and let's what happens. I'll notify you on this forum.
  • Well, after 3 alignments my car still pulls to the left. When I got the car originally from the dealer, the steering wheel was a bit off. You had to have it tilted to the right for the car to go straight. The mechanics ride with me and insists that it is within Honda tolerances. That guide that they say that if the car does not completely change lanes in 6 seconds, it is fine. I told them that I do not believe that. They showed me a paper where it says it. I am 48 and I have had all brands of cars since I was 15 and I have never had this problem before. Anyway, supposedly the Honda rep saw my car here in Miami and they took it to another dealer that had a newer alignment machine, but the problem is still there for me, even though they insist that it is not.
    I sent them what was posted as the fix for it and they say that nothing is posted in the National Database. Whoever did get the problem fix, could you please call your service manager and find out if he indeed posted it to the national database and if so, could you get me a copy?

    It is so frustrating that you buy a NEW HONDA and find out that you have problems like any other brand. On top of things, my DVD player stopped working (this si the second time it happens). Two days later it started working again. I definitely believe that Honda has been dropping the ball. I guess in tough times evrybody has cuts, even if they sacrifice quality. Even if the car is under warranty, it is a pain to go to the dealer so often to fix little problems. I am also upset at the gas mileage that this car gives. So far I am at about 16.5 mpg. I will most definitely do more research next time I buy a car. And to all of you that have taken their time to share their problems here.......THANKS!!!!!
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    A tire that has conicity due to a manufacturing error will be apparent right after installation or immediately following the first time the tires are rotated...

    The easiest way is to find a tire company has Hunter GSP9700 machine to find the deflective one(s) quick by performaing 'road force' on each tire. http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/4159T/index.htm

    Below is article from tirerack.com

    Diagnosing Tire Pull

    Tires are manufactured by assembling components made of rubber, fabric cord and steel wire that are cured together in a mold. Under intense heat and pressure during the curing process, the rubber reaches a near liquid state before vulcanization takes place finalizing the tire's exact size, structure and shape.

    If a tire's internal components are misaligned as it cures, it is possible that unequal internal forces may cause the vehicle to pull to the side, even when it is steered straight ahead. When this occurs with a brand new tire it is typically due to conicity, a manufacturing glitch where a tire's tread has cured slightly cone shaped rather than in the desirable uniform cylinder shape.

    A tire that has conicity due to a manufacturing error will be apparent right after installation or immediately following the first time the tires are rotated. Because of this, tire manufacturers warranties only cover this condition early in the tire's life.

    If tire pull first becomes noticeable after many miles of driving on a tire, it is typically due to driving conditions or vehicle misalignment that has caused the tire's tread to wear on an angle (with one side wearing faster than the other), or allowed the tire on the left side of the axle to wear faster than the tire on the right side of the same axle.

    If a vehicle has a pulling problem, the alignment should be checked (including cross camber, cross caster and thrust angle settings). If the alignment is at the manufacturer's preferred settings or appropriately within the range, the following procedure can be used to confirm which tire is causing the pull.

    The following steps must be used to isolate a pulling tire. Click here for a downloadable version of these instructions.

    Step 1
    Action to be Taken
    Rotate the two front tires from side-to-side. Directional tires can be moved from side-to-side for testing purposes. The short time that they are on the vehicle backwards will not harm the tire.
    Results
    1. If the vehicle pulls in the opposite direction, the defective tire is one of the front tires. (GO TO STEP 2)
    2. If the vehicle pulls in the same direction the problem is either with one of the rear tires or is not a tire-related problem. (GO TO STEP 3)


    Step 2
    Action to be Taken
    Rotate the front tire on the side of the car that is in the direction of the pull, to the rear of the car.
    Results
    1. If the pull no longer exists or diminishes greatly, the tire that was moved to the rear of the car is the defective tire.
    2. If the pulling does not change, the defective tire is isolated to the front tire that was not moved in Step 2.


    Step 3
    Action to be Taken
    Rotate the two rear tires from side to side.
    Results
    1. If the vehicle pulls in the opposite direction, the defective tire is one of the rear tires. (GO TO STEP 4)
    2. If the pulling tire does not change, the problem is not tire related. The car should be checked for possible misalignment or suspension wear.


    Step 4 Action to be Taken
    Rotate the rear tire on the side of the car that is in the direction of the pull to the front of the car.
    Results
    1. If the vehicle pull becomes more severe, the defective tire is isolated to the tire that was rotated to the front of the car.
    2. If the pulling does not change, the defective tire is isolated to the rear tire that was not rotated.


    A tire diagnosed as a pulling tire is a manufacturer's defect. The tire is covered under warranty only during the first 25% of tread wear. The defect is caused by the belts being incorrectly aligned during manufacture.
  • Hi, thanks for the information, but can so many tires be defective? I am sure that there must be hundreds of other people who do not even realize that they have a pulling problem.
  • walczakwalczak Posts: 5
    It's not a tire problem. In my case its definitely a steering issue. You can rotate the tires and even change them (which they did, with a van that exhibited no problems) and the pull on mine is to the left. It's memory steer in my case. If you go into a parking lot and make large circles and let go of the wheel it does not come back to center on left turns, but it comes back perfectly on right circles. This is what's causing the pull in my case. Honda cannot fix this. It's either a design flaw or a bad batch. In either case, Honda is too cheap to issue a recall.
  • Michelins are one of the best tires. See thread #23.
  • a4ka4k Posts: 3
    Bought an 08 EXL-Res few days ago. (last Thursday).

    I too am having the same pulling issue. First thing I notice when I drove off the lot was the van was pulling to the left. I called my salesman immediately and I was told it could just be the tires pressure. I waited till 9 PM to adjust the pressures knowing the tires were already cold. There were differences in pressure, -+4 or so. Hmmm.. so I said maybe that could just be the problem. Drove the van the next morning, however the pulling to the left was still there. This van drives differently. My 05 Odyssey that i traded drove better and firmer where this new van drives like it has softer struts, very annoying to drive. So I called my salesman again, he told me to bring it in today for the alignment and other issue . I dropped the van off this morning and got a call from him late in the afternoon saying they could not find anything wrong other than pressure was at 40 psi. I set it at 36.5 (35 recommended) same tire gauge I have been using in my old Ody that rides fine. They left some air out, test drove the van and said they found nothing wrong with it. Oh yeah they did not even bother to do alignment check. I have to see tomorrow. I googled odyssey alignment issue that is how i got to this forum.
  • I had an 07 Odyssey that had this problem and somehow the dealer's alignment guy fixed it. Now have an 08 and at 300 miles it started pulling to the left, took to same dealer and Service Manager suggested switching tires, LF to RF and RF to LF and drive it for a while....somehow this immediately cured the problem and at about 1500 miles dealer moved tires back to their original positions and it still drives straight???
    SEE THREAD #23, THIS IS A FIX THAT DEALER IN GEORGIA CAME UP WITH THAT FIXED AN ODYSSEY PULL...it appears that the Honda factories may be having some problems in assembling the struts and my guess is that my on my 08 when they were switching tires they may have somehow jogged a strut part into proper position. On my 07 the dealer originally diagnosed the problem as a Michelin tire problem (Michelin just don't have many of these problems), sent me to a Michelin tire dealer who replaced the tire AND IT STILL PULLED...that's when I took back to dealer and they corrected by doing something to the front suspension which may have just been a 'jury rig'. Lot's of luck.
  • Also you may want to check out the soft brake pedal threads here on Edmunds. I had a case open with Honda on this on my 07 and now one on the 08, my frist letter to them last December, received phone call January 2 from I believe the zone office with words to the effect that they are working on a fix for this. Have just sent a tracer letter to Honda in Torrance, CA this month. One of the last threads on this in Edmunds is scary. I've been driving Hondas for 21 years and have never had or heard of such unresolved problems, are they getting GMitis maybe. However, other than these two issues, these Odys are very fine vehicles. The dealers don't seem to be getting help from Honda Tech Line they seem to be stonewalling on this and the pulling issue, could be a lawyer or bean counter issue.
    And when I purchased my 08 I tested the brakes and they seemed solid. It takes about 1000 to 2000 miles for the softness to show up. I've had one emergency stop with the 08 and it did stop OK but it gave me a scare as with the soft pedal it felt like it wasn't going to stop in time. Watch for this.
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