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http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A06-068.PDF
I am done, I will be filing a Lemon Law complaint with the State of Ohio. :lemon:
This week I noticed a vibration at 60 mph. As a result he dealer replaced both Michelin front tires due to belt separation. Too soon for me to evaluate how the new tires relate to the other steering issues that I have experienced.
The dealer evaluates the tire condition by spinning them as you would do with balancing. I asked about the two rear- he said they appeared normal. Interesting that the two front would be bad and not the rear two.
Any others with Michelin problems, or the tire relationship to the steering issues?
Take a look to understand Road Force Test by Hunter GSP7900, then locate a tire dealer has this machine near you. It won't cost much for this test. Less than $100 might kick the nightmare away.
http://www.gsp9700.com/
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/how.cfm
If you moved/rotated the 2 back ones to the front might have solved the problem, thus save you some money on buying 2 new tires.
I have 02 aligment pulling issues since the day I got my ody.
Taken it back to dealer the first week I got it. I got a new set of rim and tires with month. Problem is the tires. The problem still persist today.
The aligment problem is like a second job to me.
I get in the van and work to keep it going straight and not slam into the wall or other cars. I am thinking could be a brake caliper problem. But the two rotors have the same temperture. Can figure out where the problem is.
I hope somebody start a class action law suit for this problem.
Odymare. :sick:
yes getting new tires will help your problem with pulling from what it sounds like to the left but it WILL NEVER BE FIXED! It is caused by what is called in the automotive world as torque steer. the drive shaft that goes to the front left and right tires is what is causing the problem. on the right side (dont quote me on the side) is shorter than the other. causing that side of the car to start moving forward faster and causing the pull. this is also common but not so much in BMW (you dont notice it because of how high of quality of the car)
i have done many alignments on the honda ody and they come back almost very time even if the specs are exactly how the honda factory wants them.
sorry but it is just something that will never be fixed and you will have to deal with it.
and a little side note if your tires have a run flat technology in the tire and you need a new tire most dealerships A) dont know how to change them or dont want to deal with it. they are a huge pain the the butt
What in the heck is wrong with these things? It's not road crown...never had that problem in any vehicle I've had, including my '79 Volare. I can go down the same road if my last turn was left and the vehicle drives like it's on rails, BUT if my last turn onto the same road was a right turn I will be in the shoulder in less than three seconds...extremely annoying.
So, seems like from all the reading here we've done about everything...addressed struts and rack. Any other suggestions? Is it possible I have a bad tie rod end on one side that when it's torqued on right turns it is not holding true or something??? What about the ball joints???
Any suggestions are appreciated. Air pressures are alwasy good, we've rotated tires and all tires have consistent wear. Drives just perfect after a left hand turn, but not a right.
Just put 250 miles on today, all highway. Everytime I turned right (as I was traveling south) it pulled, but when I turned left (to travel east) just fine. Same coming home but going north and west.
Only does it when the wheel is cranked more than 90 degrees. For example, if the vehicle is going straight (after my last turn was a left of course) and I have a normal highway speed corner to the right it's OK after I come out of the corner as I only turned the wheel probably 20-40 degrees. Same is true if it's pulling to the right (after my last turn was a right hand turn)...if I have a gradual left turn in the road it's not enough to offset the problem and let the van drive true...continues pulling right.
Funny how one try's things to compensate. As example, when I was traveling south on the interstate (that had a severe road crown), I drove in the fast lane (left) and even though my last turn was a right it seemed OK, but this is because the severe road crown was offsetting the pull to the right enough, BUT when I went into the slow lane (right), WATCH OUT! If I let go of the wheel, before a two count I was almost in the gravel.
My next van will be a Sienna. My mother has one with 30K and hasn't had any problems...I mean nothing; I've drove it several times and the steering is sooooooo much more comfortable. My luck though, I'll get one and it'll have a problem.
This is what happens though when one's on a budget and needed a newer vehicle. I didn't rush, but saw all the wonderful reviews of the Odyssey and for the features ours has compared to a comparable used Sienna it seemed the Odyssey was about $1,000-$1,500 less always...now I know why. Wish I would have seen this post prior to purchase.
I'll post what they say next as this will be my fifth trip in less than six months. I'm going to ask that all steering components be replaced, otherwise if they keep doing one at a time they risk me bringing it back each and every time.
I've had two loaners, one and '08 and the other an '07...neither did what this one does.
Although used, mine is certified so it's under full warranty as though it's new until I turn 48K miles or October of '10, whichever comes first.
Have any of you experienced this per say:
My 08 has now 9k and two weeks ago the tires were rotated for the first time. Quickly I picked up on the steering wheel beginning to wobble or shake at intervals (lasting only 30 secs or so) on the highway going above 50mph. I thought it could be surface related but on new paved lanes (regardless if it is center or not) it keeps on doing this. I had brought it back to the dealer twice. 1st time they rebalanced it and the second they did a "road force" one which honestly I never heard of such a thing before. Honestly, I have my reservations if anyone knows anything. Nevertheless, anyone can relate to this subtle wobbling?
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/how.cfm
The jury is still out until I bring it back for further look at. Honestly, I doubt that they themselves (techs at the Honda dealership) have a clue.
To go back to my issue with the memory steer. They put new lower control arms in as Honda said it must be the ball joints. To replace the ball joints they needed to put in new control arms. I couldn't believe it, it fixed the problem. Too good to be true...I guess.
Now the vehicle, although not as bad, is again pulling to the right after right hand turns after putting about 500 miles on it. I would call it a drift instead of a pull but still annoying.
Honda said they've replaced everything the can, but they haven't replaced tie rod ends. Couldn't this be the problem? A bad tie rod end would cause memory steer based on how it's torgued during a turn, correct?
I can't believe all the problems people have with these things.
I'm concerned, cause this one is hard to replicate. Fully loaded touring, black on black, and was the only one around for hundreds of miles. I looked for months.
I have never experienced any pulling, except on one old country road with a huge crown and it wanted to go right (with the slant in the road), but it tracks true on normal roads.
As for feel, I usually drive with just a couple fingers in the part of the well near the "talk/phone/nav" button. The feel is taut and responsive and gives a good feeling for the road. I also have an Avalon Limited (Toyota) bought new and that has always felt loose and too isolated from the road but I got used to it.
My dealer provides a shuttle service to the city and uses older Odyssey's for the service and the one has 125,000 miles and the other over 150,000, and all ride great and are tight, no rattles, which is why I decided to buy my Odyssey.
Maybe it's the Dealer/Service Dept that makes the difference, but other than the initial delivery prep, the only time they touched the van was at the oil change. I drove 1600 miles 1 month after delivery on vacation and it was great, no driving fatigue, and no stiff back or legs.
Too bad your experiences are not as positive as mine has been, I did have a pull in the Avalon, but took it back after about 500 miles and they made an adjustment and it's been fine ever sense (55,000 miles). Both dealerships are part of the same family of dealers (they also have Chevy, Cadillac, Acura, Subaru, Buick and Kia) and they seem to pay close attention to their service departments (for instance the Honda, Acura and Toyota dealers combine to provide the free shuttle service).
Yesterday I bought a 2007 EXL-RES with 44K miles for $22,000....Thought I got a good deal. 12 hours I had it at honda with alignment issues. The Service guy printed me records of the prior owner "fixes"
1 Drive shaft
2. Steering column
3. tourqe converter
4. 2 sets of tires
5. 6 alignments
6. Rotors and calipers. Etc....WTF I bought this Used from Carmax 10pm last night.
I have the extended warranty plan from carmax so I guess this is covered. I have 4 days to take the car back. I think I will.
Is there any other info out there to help me fix this?
Recently I had 4 tires put on at the dealership and they talked me into another alignment which put the vehicle back to factory specs. Wrong move.
Well I always thought it was an assembly problem when built and went back to the independent shop and told him about the last 5 years with this problem.
I was told that using the adjustments built within the suspension that I was still about 2 degrees beyond what is acceptable and said that the sub frame which mounts the drivetrain to the rest of the chassis is likely out of alignment. This was a common problem with earlier Citation, Pontiac 6000's or others using that body type.
Well he loosened the sub frame mounting bolts and used a hydraulic ram to push the left side slightly forward. He said it would have to be a guess as there are no markings but he only moved it maybe an 8th of an inch and tightened everything back up.
I thought I was driving a different vehicle and can't believe I had wrestled with this thing the last 5 years. Wish I'd known how to fix the problem back then. Too bad the dealerships can't fix it but I guess they are reluctant to admit there is an alignment problem that sometimes comes down the assembly line.
I saw the markings where the bolts had moved slightly from its previous position on the sub frame. It didn't take much to make a huge difference in the way it drives. He also showed me the holes in the frame and sub frame which the factory use to line up for assembly. If anything is out just a bit then these vans don't seem to tolerate it well. I can understand why problems occur but they should be dealt with. It was a 100 dollar fix.
When I pulled my off my van none of them were lined up correctly. It appears that the person who assembled it lined up the end of the coil spring with the rubber mount, then lined up the steel spring retaining plate with the strut direction and then lined up the upper mount mark to that. This resulted in the spring being incorrectly angled in the strut assembly according to the Honda service manual. I've taken picture of the before and after of the left strut assembly. I'm going to check the right one tomorrow.
The strut mounts were not broken, the upper bearings were ok too. No physical damage seen. I'll report later when I finish the right one and get it aligned again.
thanks,
amber
I will post pictures that I took while I was doing it. I also took a short video explaining what I was doing.
There is a VERY fast way you can tell if your struts are assembled correctly with just your van jacked up and the front wheel removed with a flashlight if you know what you're looking for. I'll post more later. I've got to head out for a couple hours.
I want to help anyone who has this frustrating problem. I think Honda should face the music and recall this issue. There are no new parts needed to fix it, but it would take about 2 hours per van to take the parts off, clean them, align them, reinstall, and do a 4 wheel alignment. The change happened after 2005 when the suspension was made softer from what I gather. I had no problems with my 05 steering.
The above picture was taken of my LEFT strut off of my 2007 Honda Odyssey right when I took it out.
The top arrow is pointing is pointing to the correctly aligned strut mount. The next arrow is pointing to the correctly aligned steel spring plate. The next arrow is pointing to the spring rubber mount (which is NOT aligned correctly). The bottom arrow says that all the above marks should be aligned to the middle of the two flanges. To fix this I compressed the spring, took it off, rotated the rubber portion to line up with the other marks, aligned all the marks to match the spaced directly in the middle of the lower bolt flanges, and at the same time made sure the bottom of the spring would sit correctly in the lower portion of the strut.
I also wiped down all the components and checked the plastic strut bearing for wear (looks like a flat plastic disk, can't see it in the picture).
I've got more pictures and a video I'm thinking of posting on youtube of what I found.