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2007 Chevrolet Cobalt

navyyeomannavyyeoman Member Posts: 4
Nice car, however, when I go to accelerate to increase speed or to pass a car, the car hesitates a few times then picks up speed.

Has anyone had this problem? Let me know. Thanks.

Comments

  • 07cobalt07cobalt Member Posts: 2
    I need some assistance in figuring out the best way to change out the headlamp bulbs. I got hid look "9007" bulbs and i cannot fit my hand in the small opening. can it be done without taking the headlamp out?
  • cnwcnw Member Posts: 105
    Check you owner's manual. My experience is that GM usually has pretty good directions for the bulb changing processes. I don't have experience with the Cobalt, but just went thru the process with my Impala. The owner's manual provided the specifics that I needed.
    Clark
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Do you get an RPM bounce out of it? Engine basically goes Rrrr....Rrrr...Rrrr and the tach bounces +/- 500RPM's? My 2007 LS 2.2L Auto has done this since around 3Kmi. It happens when the torque converter tries to lockup under load. I haven't taken mine in because I have no check engine light and the car doesn't do it every time.

    Joel
  • navyyeomannavyyeoman Member Posts: 4
    Brought it in to my dealer. They reprogrammed the computer as it relates to the transmission.

    Appears as though the problem is resolved.
  • jtk152jtk152 Member Posts: 139
    Out of the 3 or so occurrences of this issue I've heard of, your the first where re-flashing of the PCM worked. I'm curious to see if this works long-term,

    Joel
  • cadelesscadeless Member Posts: 4
    The only time mine has cut out, in any way, was when the driving conditions where to much for the car to handle, ex I was gettin off the freeway when it was raining and i just had to make the light, a 90 degree turn and i was doin bout 40 into it, the car had told me low traction, half way into the turn is when it stalled, the car took into account the speed, low traction, and how hard i cranked the wheel, and cut the gas before i lost traction
  • bws10bws10 Member Posts: 4
    you have to take out the headlamps there is no other way.Its not hard though just refer to your owners manual.
  • bws10bws10 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 2006 SS i have the same problem when i accelerat it hesitates for a few seconds then makes a reving sound then the speed picks up dramatically
  • bws10bws10 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 2006 SS i have the same problem when i accelerat it hesitates for a few seconds then makes a reving sound then the speed picks up dramatically
  • navyyeomannavyyeoman Member Posts: 4
    Well it looks as though the dealer knew what he was doing. I have gone thru various scenarios since they did the reprogramming of the computer and she runs like a top. I guess on these newer cars everything is programmed into a computer.

    Might want to try your luck at the dealer. Took less than a hour for me.

    Good luck.
  • cobaltkencobaltken Member Posts: 21
    Yes You do have to take the whole headlamp out it is not very hard.You have to take out the to hex screws and pull out on the front fascia,it takes a little wiggling to pull the headlamp out.This should all be in your owners manual. Hope this helps.
  • 07cobalt07cobalt Member Posts: 2
  • cobaltkencobaltken Member Posts: 21
    Can someone tell me where GM is hidding the turnsignal flasher unit on a 2007 Cobalt SS Supercharged? I put LED taillights on my cobalt and the turnsignals are flashing to fast now.I have read in other forums to change the flasher unit but I cant find it. HELP
  • revolutionaryrevolutionary Member Posts: 1
    There is a panel with all the fuses and flashers located on the passenger side of your shifter console, next to where your feet go. It has two clips on the bottom. Just give each bottom corner a tug and they will unsnap. Once bottom is it will simply slide dowm and away. Not the usual place for fuses and such.

    You may need a resistor for each taillight to slow down the flashing, instead of a flasher.
  • rabradirabradi Member Posts: 2
    i have had my cobalt for 3 years now and since day one the fuel consumption has been horrible. I fill up alot i get 160 to 170 miles per tank which breaks down to 14 to 15 mpg. I have had it at the dealer so many times i just hate going anymore they have replaced fuel pump, fuel tank, evap lines, gas cap. I only have 35k on the car and at first they told me it was normal you get better down the line but still is real bad mpg i do hwy and city driving and i do feel a slight hesitation while sitting at red lights and a few times the car stalled. I bought 2 cobalts the same day and the other one got around 300 miles a tank with about 27 mpg and my brother beats his car. Is there any one else that has had this problem or no a real fix maybe im tired of putting $90+ a week in gas in my car.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Rabradi,
    I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you are experiencing and issue with your vehicle. Can you please email me with more information about your situation so that I can look into your situation further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • ecorlissecorliss Member Posts: 4
    IN ADDITION THE GAS MILAGE WASNT EVEN 22 PER GALLON NOW ITS DOWN TO ABOUT 19 PER GALLON.. SO MUCH FOR 35 MILES TO THE GALLON!!!
  • newyorksebringnewyorksebring Member Posts: 18
    Another possibility is that the computers in the car are messed up for some reason and your mixture is off. That's definitely what it may be. That can be a number of things, though, so idk. I would test injectors, replace plugs and wires, and ohm/volt the different connections to wiring harnesses.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Ecorliss,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern on your vehicle. Have you taken the vehicle to another GM dealership for a second opinion? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • 07_cobalt07_cobalt Member Posts: 4
    I have an intermittent issue with my Cobalt. It's become more permanent than intermittent recently. The turn signal used to click, like any car, when it is activated but that annoying click click click to let you know it's on does not happen anymore. The turn signals still function perfectly aside from this. After this had gone on for a few days off and on, I noticed that the speaker in my driver side door did not work. Now, I listen to music pretty loud so I thought I blew the speaker. After a couple days of trying to figure out why it was working sometimes and others not, I realized the speaker is dead at the same time the signal doesn't click. Also, when this is happening, the ding that lets you know your keys are in the ignition when you open the door does not ding. I think it may be wiring but I'm really not sure and really don't know where to start. It seems like if it were a fuse that it would just blow and none of it would work til I change it, instead of sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't.

    So, to summarize:
    annoying turn signal click doesn't click
    ding when the keys are in the ignition when the door opens doesn't ding
    driver's door speaker does not work
    this intermittent although it is becoming more permanent

    Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

    Josh
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Josh,
    I apologize that you are experiencing concerns with your vehicle. Have you taken the vehicle in to be diagnosed? How long has the concerns been present? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • 07_cobalt07_cobalt Member Posts: 4
    I have not taken it in to get looked at as I do not have the $$ for a diagnostic fee. It may be something very simple or it could be something very complicated. I'd like some suggestions on where to look, really. I just can't afford to take it to the dealership to spend $100 or something to have them tell me what's wrong and how much more it will cost to fix that. It's been going on for around a month

    This is what I've gathered so far. The signal makes noise, the door makes noise and the speaker makes noise. Now when the signal and the door do not make noise the speaker is also silent which leads me to believe that all of the noise could possible come from the driver side speaker. There may just be a loose wire on the speaker inside the dash. I will check there for now and I look forward to any other suggestions.
  • mountainboy1mountainboy1 Member Posts: 15
    Hi there, believe it or not I own a 2008 Colbalt LT and the exact same thing is happening to my car. I have looked at all the fuses and even looked for any exposed wire that may be hitting against something and making it short out. I am baffled also and any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This issue just started 1 week ago. It is driving me crazy especially when trying to listen to the radio. :confuse:
  • 07_cobalt07_cobalt Member Posts: 4
    I ended up fixing the issue! I replaced the speaker and all is well. It looked like when washing my car I had gotten some water inside the door from the pressure washer at the DIY car wash. It's hard to spray all the soap out of the window seal and get it clean!

    Anyway, replaced the speaker with one I got from the dealership and all is well. 1st I suggest swapping the speaker with the one on the passenger side to make sure the speaker itself is actually the issue. I swapped them and the speaker was definitely dead. Hope this helps you out.
  • mountainboy1mountainboy1 Member Posts: 15
    I am soooooo glad to hear your reply. I have thought the worse about the wiring and electrical system. In my area the weather has been very bad and it has rained quite a bit. Possible that this rain has somehow effected that speaker also. I will do what you suggest and will let you know if it works for me also. I do thank you again and I am thankful I found your post with the same issue. Again, Thank You and I will post back to let you know. :)
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    mountainboy1,

    Have you had the chance to take your vehicle to the dealership to be diagnosed?

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    mountainboy1,

    I would encourage you to have the vehicle diagnosed by your local GM dealership. Please keep us posted on any information from the diagnosis.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • cobaltkencobaltken Member Posts: 21
  • tedlangley64vtedlangley64v Member Posts: 8
    A new flasher control will not solve the problem because it's made for filament bulbs. Your LEDs draw much less current than the standard filament bulbs so the thermo-electric flasher doesn't heat up enough to flash slowly. The solution is explained very well at www.superbrightleds.com from which I recently received LED turn signals. The solution is to install a load resistor across one of the bulb sockets so the control unit will flash at its normal rate. I think this load resistor is 12 ohms, but go to their site to be sure. If you try to get a load resistor from Radio Shack, make sure it can handle the current. A 1 watt resistor will burn up. The safest is to order it from the above company. Some newer cars will flash "bulb out" when LEDs are installed and some disable the cruise control because they sense much less than standard load when LEDs are used. God bless America and Chevy Cobalts. I have a beautiful 2007 red coupe with red wheel covers and I get 38- 41 PMG highway consistently with the 2.2 liter engine and automatic. I attribute this high MPG to my carefully breaking it in for 1200 miles (instead of the standard 500) by varying the engine RPMs every mile or two. It's tedious, but if we treat a Cobalt well, it will treat us well in return.
  • rabradirabradi Member Posts: 2
  • owens56owens56 Member Posts: 1
    Ya Im having the exact same issue with my 07 cobalt ls. I havent taken it in mainly because I dont think I should have to on a newer vehicle. I tried changing speakers, but no hope yet. It seems like GM got a little sloppy with this portion of the the assembly for the cobalt lines. If anyone knows which wires are the ones that went bad, then please let me know. Thanks!
  • 07_cobalt07_cobalt Member Posts: 4
  • mountainboy1mountainboy1 Member Posts: 15
    Hi There,
    I believe it will be the driver side speaker. Dampness may have gotten in the speaker or the cone on the speaker has gone bad. I replaced the speaker and have not had any issue since. If you have any other issue just let me know. I have had some great help with this site and had all issues fixed to date. :shades:
  • justus3justus3 Member Posts: 21
    edited June 2013
    My Cobalt has sprung a leak!!! I have a 2-door and recently have noticed when it rains the back seat floor board on the driver's side gets soaked. We have torn the car apart three times trying to figure out where the water is coming in at. Checked the sunroof drains and they are fine. The trunk is completely dry. Tore out the back seat and there is no water pooling under it either. The only spot where there is water is in the rubber seal on the bottom of the door frame towards the rear part of the door. It looks like water is draining down through the door onto the rubber seal and then makes a trail down the plastic trim and onto the carpet. When it rains, only a small part of the seal is wet right at the spot where it trails down to the floor. The rest of the rubber seal around the door is completely dry. I am thoroughly confused as to where the source of this leak is. We have attempted to spray the car to simulate rain but see nothing. Today we removed the door panel. We poured water around the door to check for leaks in the door and around the seals but see nothing there either. Very frustrating.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Since you've isolated the source to be the door panel and it sounds like the seeps in the H-body cars, I'll suggest what they have.

    The door panel has a heavy plastic sheet between it and the metal door. That sheet is glued to the metal with a heavy black mastic. IT ages and doesn't seal well in spots or it has been pulled away for service and then put back when it has aged and lost its tackiness.

    The glue lines are shaped at the bottom so that water on the metal side is directed into 3 holes that let it drain back through the metal and then out the drain holes in the bottom of the door. Usually the water is seeping past the mastic at the V-point.

    The solution is fresh black goopy sticky stuff from a supply place for auto shops and a new line of mastic on the plastic.

    Here's a link to a write up with pictures about the H-body door setup. Good luck finding your source.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • horsey55horsey55 Member Posts: 15
    My 2008 LS Coupe started exhibiting these same symptoms about a month ago.It has been operating normally the last few days,but then the issue with the left speaker,turn signal and door chime will arise for awhile.
    I have not had the time to really check into this matter,but glad I found this post.Has been a pretty good car for the most part.
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