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Isuzu Rodeo No Start Stall Idle Problems

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Comments

  • maloprmalopr Member Posts: 14
    have you replaced the IAC (idle air control valve) which is located on the throttle body. If you don't know how this part looks like just ">google in image mood isuzu rodeo idle air control valve.
  • morross1morross1 Member Posts: 12
    Yes. Replaced the IAC Motor today, and no change. We cleaned the carbon away and put the new one in, but it still wouldnt start. Going to change fuel fitler tommorrow then the O2 sensor. How does that sound?
  • morross1morross1 Member Posts: 12
    also thinking the crank shaft sensor-
  • ivy96ivy96 Member Posts: 8
    I'm sorry, I thought for sure it was the IAC. after that, I have no clue where to go from there. But, will you let me know what does work, just in case this comes up with mine again? It's always nice to know where to start looking for the fix. LOL. Good luck to you.
  • morross1morross1 Member Posts: 12
    Replaced the fuel filter. No change. It cranked for a few sec then quit.
    We put the old IAC motor back on but now when testing it it isnt working. Above the IAC motor on the ERG Valve (i think) are several wires. 2 sets of them and they are disconnected from the connectors. The wires (2 sets) are taped together and not connected to the terminals. Been this way since I bought it and never had a problem. It runs to the vaccum. Not sure if this is related.

    When we spray starter fluid in the intake, it still wont crank. Its not a fuel issue.
    Stuck now- not sure-
  • ivy96ivy96 Member Posts: 8
    Wow!! Is your Check Engine light on at all? Check your Mass Air Flow sensor, this looks like a square box coming from your air filter, it looks like it's part of the hose itself, but it's not, you'll see hose clamps on either side. Check that, it seems to me that you are having an air intake issue. Also, check all your vacuum hoses and make sure there aren't any holes or rips. Good Luck. I'll look further into it and see if there's anything else that would be causing this problem.
  • morross1morross1 Member Posts: 12
    Thank you so much for helping. I got a buddy of mine helping thats a mechanic- but we are doing all this from my front yard. I had one mechanic tell me I dont have a mass air flow sensor on this vehicle- something else- i cant remember what it was-

    i think it is air intake also- does crankshaft sensor involve that?? or MAP sensor?

    will re- convene tomorrow!

    Thank you so much!!
  • morross1morross1 Member Posts: 12
    Check engine light is not on. occasioanally when i would drive it would come on- very rare- black smoke from the tail pipe- seemed to run a little rough- but then minutes later- it was fine- no smoke- ran like a champ- no check engine light on-
  • ivy96ivy96 Member Posts: 8
    Yeah, now I'm almost sure it's air intake! You do have a Mass Air Flow sensor, sorry, but I had mechanics tell me that I needed a new O2 sensor and Catalytic Converter literally 2 weeks after I had replaced them both! I don't trust them all, lol. No offense to your friend, but your Rodeo and mine are only a year apart (mine's a 96), if you have a Chilton guide, you can see it. and your MAP sensor COULD be the problem! I don't know about the crank shaft. Honestly, I am still learning about Isuzu's too. I've had mine for almost a year, but I've had to fix A LOT! Bought it from a shady used car dealer, but my husband and I love working on cars, so we took on the challenge. We learn as we go.
    Oh, by the way, if your check engine light is coming on, it's a SMOG issue, that's what that particular "dummy" light is for. Which tells me that you have an air issue for sure. Check your EGR valve. It should be on the other side of your throttle body then your IAC was. You should be able to just clean it out, replace the gasket and see if your car starts. And even if your check engine light is going out, there is still a problem, your engine's computer temporarily corrects or compensates for problems, that's why it goes out, but the longer you go without fixing the problem, the longer the light will stay on and the more often it will come on.
  • morross1morross1 Member Posts: 12
    It cranked twice today for a few seconds then died. I smelled exhaust fumes pretty heavy. I am convinced also that it is air intake. It's not fuel, and unless the spark isnt good, I think it is air intake.

    Gotta tow it to the shop now. Been way to long not running. Any other ideas?

    I will check Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • bigmac7bigmac7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 isuzu rodeo 2wd v-6 that i put a timing belt on and drove it for about a month, One day it decided not to start so I thought fuel pump must be out. To test my theory I had my son crank it while i sprayed starting fluid in it and it started and kept running. I drove it around the block no problem got back to the house killed it and it would not starty again. I sprayed starting fluid in it and it started right up.
    I have replaced the fuel pump. fuel pressure regulator. idle air control. map sensor and the crank sensor. It want start at all now even with starting fluid. I have a Haynes manual and it says that the crank sensor is suppose to produce 2.5 volta ac, The one I have is only producing .3 volts ac and i got another one and it is the same. The brand is a borgwarner. Is it possible that I need to get one from ISUZU?
    Please help.
  • gabekgabek Member Posts: 1
    HAVE A 93 RODEO 3.2 V6 AND IT SEEMED LIKE MY FUEL PUMP WAS GIVING OUT. SO I REPLACED IT AND THE FILTER. IT RUN GOOD FOR A COUPLE DAYS. THEN IT STARTED TO SEEM LIKE THE FUEL PUMP WAS GIVING OUT AGAIN. SO I REPLACED ALL THE SENSORS AND CHECKED ALL THE RELAYS AND THEY ARE ALL GOOD. SO NOW I AM THINKING IT IS THE ECM. MY FUEL PUMP WORKS AWESOME WHEN I BYPASS FOR POWER. BUT EVERYTHING NEEDS TO GO THROUGH THE ECM TO WORK. RIGHT NOW IT SEEMS LIKE IT WANTS TO START BUT IT WON'T. FUEL IS NOT THERE. I CAN TURN THE KEY AND ONCE I HEAR THE FUEL PUMP I KNOW IT WILL START AND IT DOES. BUT THAT IS A HIT AND MISS. NOW THERE IS NO HIT AND MISS. ALL IT DOES IS MISS AND MY RODEO IS OUT. I CHECKED EVERYTHING BUT THE ECM. COULD THIS BE MY PROBLEM??? WANT SOME INPUT BEFORE I BUY A NEW ECM...THANKS
  • kozikowskikozikowski Member Posts: 19
    edited April 2010
    We purchased this car 2 weeks ago with 150K miles and it seemed to run pretty well, but the last two mornings with a cold engine it ran like garbage. A bit tough to start, and when it did there was a rough idle and some visible exhaust with a a strong odor. When I put it into reverse it hesitated and wanted to stall until I gave it some gas, but it was rough. I turned it off, waited a minute before restarting and it was a bit better...a few minutes of driving and it felt normal. Once the engine is warm I don't have any problem with restarts.

    The fuel filter was replaced about 6 months ago, but I was thinking about the MAF or O2 sensors.

    Unrelated...but we replaced the OEM shocks with Monroe SensaTrack on Saturday...amazing upgrade in ride quality and handling.
  • derving2010derving2010 Member Posts: 3
    Hey there Im new on here and not a mechanic, but I've seem so solve my 99 Isuzu Rodeo stall and idle problems( so far). First off, after months of my 99 Rodeo stalling while driving and cutting off I was fed up. I noticed the RPM drops when the car stalls. ( When it stalls, it doesnt even rev up, fells like Im in a dead car just press the gas pedal, then it picks up speed for a second the BOOM, stalls again :( I did the carb spray on intake manifold test-no vaccum leaks, I cleaned the pcv valve, cleaned the throttle, new air filter with no results. Next, I cleaned the IAC (idle air control) with carb cleaner and it ran fine for about a day. Last I replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator and then viola!!! its running fine for about 2 weeks. now. It took me about a day to replace it hence im not a mechanic and its located on the fuel at the drivers side firewall. I had to literally remove the whole whole fuel rail( for the 99+ models) which was a real bytch taking off, but easier putting back on. Sorry for the paragraph but I feel I had to tell someone of my triumph lol. I hope this helps.
  • sgt_halkasgt_halka Member Posts: 4
    My '94 Rodeo 3.2L has this exact same problem. I cannot figure it out. Looking for more info please. Thx
  • sgt_halkasgt_halka Member Posts: 4
    Does/will a bad temperature switch affect fuel injection on 1994 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L? There appears to be 2, one larger sending unit with a 2 wire connection (plug) and a smaller one with a single wire (blade type) connection. I believe the smaller one controls the temp gage at the dash, which has not been working. I found the tang (connection blade) broken off of the sensor switch. The vehicle has been bogging down and blowing black smoke intermittently after the engine is warm and I am wondering if the temp switch may be the problem. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
  • selrahcbaileyselrahcbailey Member Posts: 1
    So my '95 Rodeo is having starting issues. I believe it has to do something with the fuel pump.
    Right now I can start it and it runs fine, but in the past, I have had it die on me while I was driving on the highway. I have replaced the fuel pump with another one from a '96 or a '97 rodeo and when i turn the key to the start position or to the position where it doesn't start the car but turns everything on, the check engine light comes on and I can hear the fuel pump pumping. Once i start it up, the check engine light turns off and it runs fine.
    But every so often, when i turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump wont pump. And it will stay like that for a while. It is quite unreliable and I would like to find out more. I was thinking of just rewiring the fuel pump cause it might be a bad connection but I don't want to have to pull off the fuel tank for the third time.
    Please help. Thanks.
  • derving2010derving2010 Member Posts: 3
  • rudodrumsrudodrums Member Posts: 2
  • dray2ndray2n Member Posts: 1
    derving2010: I've had all of your problems with my 1999 Rodeo and can not find a solution. I was wondering if yours is still doing good after replacing the fuel pressure regulator?
    Thanks
  • rudodrumsrudodrums Member Posts: 2
    I changed the pcv valve (2.99) and more importantly, the rubber grommet it sits in..buy seperately.. the rubber piece was rotted and not making a good seal. My car has been idling even and not stalling for several days so far so good.. cost me 5 bucks. I am crossing my fingers...
  • derving2010derving2010 Member Posts: 3
    Yes. Its been working fine
  • benjammin8807benjammin8807 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. Just recently my 1995 Rodeo 4WD has started to sputter pretty bad while trying to get up to speed. I changed the plugs/wires, air filter, and fuel filter, but still no change. It seems to happen the worst right around 45 mph. There is a big hole in the exhaust... don't know if that would contribute or not, but please any help would be appreciated.
    Thank You!
  • mecs_ordie08mecs_ordie08 Member Posts: 1
    Having the same issue with 96 Rodeo, 4cyl 2wd. We have tried almost everything including taking it to a transmission shop to see if that could be the issue. They thought that it might be electrical but couldn't find anything, we even changed the computer and everything but the Cadillac converter, PCV valve, and last thing fuel pressure regulator. Have you had any luck finding a solution?
  • sgt_halkasgt_halka Member Posts: 4
    I have the exact same problem with my '94 Rodeo, 3.2L 2WD Auto. I have done everything that Ben had mentioned + I changed the O2 sensor, which DID help a little bit. Also, you may want to disconnect both battery leads and leave them off for 10 minutes, then reconnect. Sometimes that will reset the computer. Both seemed to help, but only a little. It is still sputtering, just not as bad. Not much help, I know... But take it for what it's worth.
  • bc0135bc0135 Member Posts: 2
    I have read all of the messages in this forum, and I may have a bad IAC from what I have read. I just bought this Rodeo 4X4 w/V-6. All lights work, and it seems to be getting fuel, but sometimes, hit-and-miss it won't start. At idle it also runs rough (intermittently) as well. It first happened to my wife when she started to take it to get inspected. I came home from work and it started right up. I tried starting it every few days with no problems. I let my step-son use it while his car was in the shop, and yesterday he calls me saying the Rodeo will not start. I drove across town and turned it over. It turns over fine, but acts like it's not getting fire. I pulled the plug wire from the coil pack going to the distributor cap center plug, and just set it next to the coil pack. Had my wife turn it over, and it cranked right up. Coincidence? It still is idling rough, but so far it is starting and running. This weekend I'm going to dig deeper into the problem but I am hoping someone on here may have had this problem with their Rodeo and can steer me in the right direction. I'm a shade-tree mechanic so I know my way around vehicle mechanics, but I don't know much about the foreign cars. Any advice will be appreciated!
  • mrglimmmrglimm Member Posts: 3
    I just completed changing the Intake Manifold Gaskets, and now it's running like the timing is off... Shuttering/choppy acceleration etc. It seems to have curbed the idle issue, but it's missing somewhere or something. I dont have acccess to the CEL reader until tomorrow. Any ideas?
  • mrglimmmrglimm Member Posts: 3
    ...nevermind, this was a loose cable to one of the spark plugs.
    IMG replacement and cleaning and it's running like a new truck. It has a little desire to stall when I put it in Park, maybe the EGR valve. I hope this doubles or close to, my fuel mileage, was only getting 200 miles to a tank.
  • asta1asta1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo. Love the vehicle, but the engine has begun to shut down (no sputtering) at random speeds or idling. The dashboard code is: cruise control/check transmition. I've taken it to three mechanics, none of whom could find the problem (the computer apparently is wiping the codes when the engine shuts down.) Transmission has been changed with no effect to the problem.

    Anyone had the same issue? Any advice?

    Thanks.
  • jess2687jess2687 Member Posts: 1
    im having a prob with my 04 rodeo, it shuts off every time i stop at a stop sign or light or stop in general, could anyone give me any insight on what might me the problem. im suspecting fuel pump, its not my spark plugs just changed them.
    thx
    Jess
  • jig200jig200 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem as you above, Check Trans/Cruise light. It s been doing this since a month and now my car won't even start. I tryt starting i would have to raise accelerator and once i let it go it would shut down and the Trans/cruise light and check engine will be flickering.It is pointing that there is problem and 3 mechanics could not find the problem.
    The transmission shifts fine and everything. Don;t know what is the electronic problem. I changed spark plugs, computer and some fuses, but nothing changed.
    pls help with this problem.
    thanks
    jim
  • tico7tico7 Member Posts: 1
    CHECK YOUR FUSE CONECTION AFTER TIME IT WILL BE LOOSE HAVE SOME ONE MOVE THE FUSE BACK AND FOWARD WILE CRANKIN THE RODEO . THE CLIPS THAT HOLDS THE FUSE BECOME DIRTY AND DAMAGE AFTER TIME, # 2 THERE IS A WIRE FROM THE ALTERNADOR THAT POWERS THE FUEL PUMP WHEN YOU FIRST START THE INGINE (1995 RODEO) CHECK ALTERNATOR. BUT IT IS PROBABLY A BAD CONECTION WITH THE FUSE HOLDER AND INGINE CONPARMENT FUSE BOX.. :shades:
  • asta1asta1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, will do!
  • jbennejbenne Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Isuzu Rodeo Sport won't start. Sometimes I can pull the starter relay out and stick a paper clip in it place and turn the key and it will start. other times it won't even work when I do that. Also sometime it takes a jump and the paper clip trick to get it to start. The battery checked out good and I put a new starter on. Please help!
  • steve_hsteve_h Member Posts: 2
    I have a 92 Rodeo 3.1, auto, 2wd. Many times, it won't start cold. Cranks over fine. All lights, radio, etc work.
    If I pour a little gas in the throttle body, it will start right up and keeps running. However, it will usually stall just around the transition to normal running temperature. Sometimes it will restart and sometimes I have to pour a little gas in then it immediately starts and runs. I might go through this 7 or 8 times sometimes before getting it to run. During this time, if I put it in gear, it will normally stall. Eventually, it will restart without the assistance of having gas poured in. When it does this, it will run with no more problems. When it finally, fully reaches operating temp, it's perfectly fine. No problem with stalls, restarts, strange idle, surges, nothing. It runs great. I have never gotten a check engine light and according to a friend of mine with a code scanner, there are no codes stored.

    The problem seems to be a little more prevalent in colder weather, but does happen in all weather. It will also occasionally give a check trans light. When this happens, as soon as I slow to about 10 mph, it stalls and will not restart without having the gas poured in. This also normally occurs before reaching normal operating temp but has happened at normal temps.

    This vehicle has 230,000 on the clock. I have replaced the rear end once, probably looking at replacing or new bearings if the pin bolt isn't broken, again pretty soon. It has all the normal stuff for a 20 year old car, rust in a couple spots on the body, normal rattles, most bearings in the engine rattle, uses a little oil, leaks a little oil (not much), driver's seat is beginning to wear out.

    The only real problem I have is this starting issue. I haven't found a posting anywhere that really covers this issue. So, I am hoping that someone has an idea where I need to go from here to solve the problem. It's a pain to sometimes have to take 10 to 15 minutes to get out of the yard.

    I have replaced the fuel filter, plugs, rotor, dist cap, wires, checked vacuum hoses, MAP sensor seems fine, tried gas from different stations.

    Thanks for any help anyone might be able to give.
    Steve
  • f_and_m_rodeof_and_m_rodeo Member Posts: 4
    Our 97 rodeo has over 250000 miles on it. It stalls when we put it into park, and has a mildly erratic idle while in gear. I have fixed one vacuum line that comes from the EVAP solenoid to the throttle body. There is another vacuum port that has no line connected to it, so I capped it off. As you look at the engine, the port is on the left side of the manifold, towards the front. I replaced the plugs, fuel filter and air filter. This does have the individual coil packs. I'm thinking it might be the EGR valve, but no code for it. Also thinking that it might be the IAC, but not sure. Any ideas?
  • ivy96ivy96 Member Posts: 8
    When I had this issue, I found, when I took off my IAC, it was black and disgusting inside. I cleaned it with contact cleaner, put it back on, and my truck started beautifully. Every once in a whilen it starts acting up again or the check engine light will come on, and that is the first thing i do, it never fails me. I supose replacing it would be a good idea, but if you're low on funds, just clean it up.
    As for that vacuum line with no hose, did it make a difference when you capped it? That darn line has baffled me for years and my Chilton Guide doesn't seem to say anything about it. I am just curious.
  • f_and_m_rodeof_and_m_rodeo Member Posts: 4
    I capped the line because it was direct access into the intake. It made a little difference, but not much. On the older Rodeos (96 and older), it was used with a check valve that connected to a steel vacuum line that ran along the frame rail on the drivers side back towards the tank.
    The fuel and vacuum lines for the tank run on the passenger side of the 97 rodeo. Our manual nor the vacuum diagram show that line. I just capped it.
    The only thing I can think of is that it goes to the transmission vent that sits in the corner of the engine compartment on the passenger side, but I highly doubt it.
  • steve_hsteve_h Member Posts: 2
    Update: Problem fixed. It was a bad ignition module supplying bad information to the computer. Changed module and everything works fine now.
  • chavo21chavo21 Member Posts: 5
    steve-h...
    your car sould start.. then run for a few min.. then stall again...????? mine will do this and then after 2 tries will not restart again for about 4 hours...

    ANY GOT ANY ANSWERS???????
  • mikie11mikie11 Member Posts: 2
    2001 Trooper-eng light on and will just die while driving. Sometimes reduced power light comes on and engine barely runs. changed points plugs cleaned egr replaced throttle position sensor. Still stalls=
  • griffimegriffime Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 trooper that will only start when jumped but has new battery any suggestions?
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