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Comments
I have a friend with a 1998 (or 96) that has the same problem. They've replaced the fuel pump 3 times but it (the CEL) still happens.
I've replaced the gas cap and the purge valve but the codes keep coming back.
If it's happened to 2 vehicles, it's probably happened to more. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
Thanks, Rick
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
After I shut it off, it will restart if I try within 10 minutes. After that, it won't restart without using the starting fluid.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge. When I turn the key and the engine is cold, it reads around 48-50 PSI. At this point it won't start. When I start it with the fluid and it's running, the pressure goes up to around 55 psi. When I shut it off and turn the key back on the pressure reads around 58psi. But if I leave it off for about 10 minutes that pressure drops back down to below 50 PSI again and it won't start again.
Is this problem my fuel pump? I have already replaced my fuel filter.
Any suggestions?
ANY IDEAS?? Can i add a secondary pump to bypass the factory setup to rule out the pump all together?
All ideas welcome and appreciated.
Replace the ICM (Ignition Control Module) and heat sink. Use new mounting screws.
Replace the fuel pump relay.
Replace the fuel line filter.
Always check the fuel pump pressure after a fuel pump is replaced,. If the fuel pump pressure is not to spec the engine may not start when it reaches ooperating temperature. You should always replace the fuel pump wiring harness and fuel pump screen when the fuel pump is replaced. The better fuel pump kits include a new harness and pump screen.
Replace the fuel pump regulator.
In the end the fix was to drop my gas tank and rinse it out with gas. then i vacuumed up the old rust that was in the tank. put it back together and no more problems. better gas mileage and power. hope this works. gl
AC Delco fuel pressure regulator #217-2251...$45
If the fuel pressure is good, the ICM (Ignition Control Module) may be breaking down when the engine get hot.
Poor hot engine operation indicates the ICM is bad.
ACDelco ICM, #D579....$97
ACDelco ICM mounting bracket, #10457979....$21
I had a fuel problem and after changeing many parts
I studied the wireing diagram ,and found chevy has a emergency shutdown of the circut of the fuel wireing , The brales and oil preasur sender are wired to the fuel pump hot wire
A long story short
THE fuel pump wireing includes a internal ground
If the ground to the BODY is lost ,the brakes and rear tail lights draw there ground thru the fuel pump
To fix thids problem I have done what chevy should do
I attached a ground wire dirrectly from the battery to the frame of the truck
NO MORE PROBLEMS
to try a quick check and see if this will help
simply attach a jumper cable from the NEGATIVE side of the battery , and the other end firmly grounded to the frome
Get in step on the brake first then start your engine !!
have fun! SAVE SOME MONEY!
However, by 1995, Dorman Products saw a market for producing a fuel pressure regulator that is separate from the entire CPI spider assembly. The CPI fuel pressure regulator is Dorman part #55162 and costs $37. It will require about 5 hours for a competent auto repair technician to replace a fuel pressure regulator or about $325 to $400 in labor cost. I suggest that a person go to an auto repair shop in a small town of less than 15,000 population and you can get it done for half that cost. It may even be cost effective to have your Blazer towed a small town to get major repairs.
The "W" code CPI systems are failure prone and is why they were only used from 1992 through 1995. I am fortunate to have a 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4, 4.3L "Z" code engine with a TBI (Throttle Body Injection.) The TBI system was uised from 1986 through 1995. The TBI is simple enough that I can even rebuild and replace it in an afternoon.. I prefer certain 1992 - 1995 CPI "W" cylinder heads and I therefore installed a pair of 1993 CPI "W" engine cylinder heads on my 1991 S10 Blazer LT.
IMO, the 1986-1995 TBI system is fool proof.
Thanks for any advise i get
thanks
RON STURGIS
Fuel Pressure Relay: ACDelco D1786C (GM 19116657)
$8.10
$15.80 MSRP
Fuel Pressure Regulator: ACDelco 21-72251 (GM 19106768)
$66.00
$126.00 MSRP
First am I right in my diagnosis and second - what is entalied in replacement. I find no clear instruction.
Thanks!
seem like the exactly problem i am having, once i get it started, it will restart with in a few minutes i let it set for over an hour.. no dice..
was it the fuel pump?
You should be near 61 lbs (key on - not started) for proper starting. 55 - 61 lbs for starting, the higher the better.
A plugged fuel filter will cause the fuel pump to work harder and eventual damage it. Cheap and reasonable replaceable part.
A fuel pressure tester is a easy way to figure out if your pump is working when key is turned on., I noticed the new pump has a new wiring design. They changed the way it connects because the connection were failing either shorting out or ground would break. So its a good idea to change it out if you have over 150,000 miles on it anyhow.
or shorting in the connection...
please help me !!!
what i did.
i got the tank out, and with a free junkyard aftermarket fuel pump (from a friend owns the junkyard w his promise he knew it worked [for how long is another story]) i busted the vapor valve on the tank and two of the three fuel line nipples on the old pump getting it out. so i have no idea what order these return to. + the pump had a different 4pin connector then the orig, so i had to splice the 4 wires into the new switch. grey,purple,2blacks*
we replaced the pump with the junkyard one and went key on pump on makes sound turn over bamb starts up and dies everytime until the batt drained. if nothing else directly was problem prior to this the day before im concerned its only one of three things...
1. junkyard part!!!!!. but the pump does work!!!
2. fuel ~ possible reverse of the fuel lines. the new pump has 0 labels for the vent the out and the in. but the old one has vent in the middle f on the right (forward/fuel?) and r on the left (reverse/return) assuming i might have switched these i removed again and they seemed to only go on one way... the right one seems to be bigger so i assume its for getting the fuel to motor. that one fits perfectly on the new pump. the other two also seem to only fit back one way but idk? can they be on backwards?
3. the electrical connection. spliced the 4 wires together with the new connector. 1)grey to grey 2)purple to purple and the 3&4) black wires. could i have made a mistake and reversed a ground to something else? i do get power when key on. is that enough indicator to my electrical being correct? could the pump in anyway run backwards? i really doubt it but idk? my assumption is the fuel lines backwards and or electrical backwards> ?
so i do not know what else the pump needs to work if its humming? it does humm a lot longer than 5 -10 seconds once in a while... tank seemed clean inside as well. i assume the last thing i did is the first place to suspect but i am not eliminating other issues but i have huge gut feeling its something stupid...
always is with me.
i did notice the old pump had a oring on top of cap under connectors and nipples and i did not use that one on the new pump. is there a potential vacuum leak issue? i cant see honestly what the top oring could actually do if anything but prevent spillage. there is no openings and no vents it seems like an extra spare oring. any help would help but i dont have the right volt meter i only have amp meter and no pressure gauge yet. if someone could eliminate or confirm my gut feelings it would help narrow it down thanks.
However, if I jump the car (attach a battery charger boost to the positive, negative grounded on the body) it jumps up to ~60 psi when the key is turned. Crank it and starts fine.
Initially I believed the starting issues were either a low battery, old starter motor, or poor grounds. So, I just put in a nice strong CCA rated battery and starter motor. I also cleaned the grounds near the battery (found two there).
So, my question is: do I need a new fuel pump, or is there a specific place in the electric system that I should check for poor grounds, etc.? Conversely, could I somehow can the circuit to runt the pump longer or at higher power?
Thanks for any advice.
Mine runs fine right now, once it starts getting these issues, it is going to the junk yard. For the money you folks put in you can finance/lease or buy a better beater vehicle. So why bother? There are many more issues. To come!