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Replaced the pump, lasted two weeks.
Tried starting it everyday for one week No humm). Seventh day it started, why I have no clue.
two days later it was dead again.(no humm)
Got under the truck, unplugged it, checked the plug for hot,(GOOD).
Checked the ground (GOOD), which is on the frame in the middle, remove spare to find it.
Put a paper clip in the plug, from behind while plugged in the pump, so it made a better connection. Push the clip from behind.
Now no problems
You will need to know the manufacturer of the part and their part number. I use AC Delco parts when they are available and the website will sometimes give you a cross-reference from the aftermarket part to the original or replacement GM part number. Other brands may be cheaper and just as good as AC Delco or GM but I try to keep my Blazer "all GM", especially if it is a part that is visable to a critical eye. You can find parts cheaper that those sold by Rock Auto Parts. I only use their website when I want a photo of the part or a part number. Sometimes the photo may be a generic photo so don't consider the photo as as absolute.
For example, the original GM EGR valve and a AC Delco replacement EGR valve for a 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 4-door is black whereas most aftermarket brands are plated.
somestimes idles ok sometime VERY rough, give it some gas it stalls then dies
HELP PLEASE :lemon:
If she dies I just restart and she runs fine for awhile longer. I also believe that my fuel pump is singing way to loud. Like straining. Could this be a vent problem? It seems like once everything is heated up is when I have the problem. On cool days it just take longer for the problem to occur. I replaced the pump/filter and no gauage lights on the dash comes on. Nor does the check engine light come on and nothing ever shows up on the comptuer. I am lost for ideas and so are the mechs can you help? Zack
My late father built and raced jalopys from 1947 to 1952. He gave me some good advice on car repair jobs that are difficult to do. He said..."Replace the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft every time you can see it" That statment definately applies to a in-tank electric fuel pump, wiring harness and screen.l.
Has your Blazer ever run out of gas? Never run a Blazer fuel tank extremely low on fuel or run out of fuel. That unloads the fuel pump and it has been known to ruin them..
Unlike a 1992 and later model, a 1987-1991 S/T-10 Blazer with TBI (Throttle Body Injection) the fuel pressure regulator costs $90.00 and can be replaced without replacing the throttle body.
How do I know if the fuel pump is bad? What do I listen for? Can I remove the line to the fuel filter and see if gas is moving through the line? A mechanic told me to hit its location with a hammer, but how is this done since it is in gas tank? And, I don't know where in the tank it is to hit the location properly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
A good ASE trained mechanic will know how to use fuel pressure guages and will use them to guage to test the out-put pressure of an electric fuel pump. They also can use a TBI fuel injection solenoid harness tester to find electrical or fuel system malfunctions. If the fuel pump tests good, the TBI pressure regulator may be bad. The part that may be bad is a AC Delco TBI pressure regulator...Part no. 217-2903, and costs $54.00.
Find a ASE trained mechanic with the proper equipment. That will be expensive but not as expensive as replacing parts until you find the problem. Local independently owned mechanics cannot afford expensive test equipment, even if they knew how to use it. All those guys can do is keep replacing parts untill they finally find the problem ....at your expense. A good mechanic with the proper tools can go directly to the problem and fix it.
If you buy the parts and do the work yourself, it will cost:
Pump.....................$95.00
Strainer..................$8.00
Wiring harness.......$10.00
Total......................$113.00
If you do the work yourself and buy the parts, there is no guarantee, but the pay is pretty good.
The first thing you will need to do is get the fuel out of your tank, but you cant do it from the fill cap alone. under the blazer is 2 bands that wrap around the fuel tank. Drop them down as far as you can go without taking them off. Next, access your tank through the rear wheel well, remove the fill hose from the fuel tank and open up your nifty walmart siphon pump. Depending upon your level of gas, you might need a couple 5 gal cans. Remove the gas from your tank.
Next,while your tank is lowered, remove the breather tube from the top front of the tank, its a tight squeeze and theres a spring clamp around it but you can usually just pullit off with a good tug by hand. After you do that, you will need to remove the fuel lines from your pump. Break open those new fuel line remover sleeves you bought and go back to the back under the blazer. Find the sleeve that fits around the adapters on your pump and slide the sleeve where it couples with the fuel line, there is a ring in that coupler where you need to slide the sleeve under to unlock it from the pump. The middle one may be tricky so either modify your sleeve, or I just broke the center plastic piece off my pump because it was garbage anyways. Remove the wiring harness on the pump. REMEMBER THE ORDER THESE HOSES GO BACK IN ON.
So now,You should have fuel siphoned out, breather tube disconnected, and your fuel lines removed from the fuel pump. For easier acessability you could also drive your entire driver side up on car ramps, I just jacked up the back but its up to you. Now, lay under the fuel tank and remove the bolds the rest of the way, taking not how the brackets lock back into the chassis. the tank only weighs about 5lbs so drop it down to your chest and slide it out.
Remove the lock ring for the fuel pump. There should be a tab on the tank that holds the ring in place, if the ring is rusty, or doesn't want to spin, use a hammer and a screwdriver in one of the slots and tap it out. Your pump will only fit in there one way because there is a notch. Break out the NEW O-ring and cover it with the lube that comes with it. Put it on the pump and and insert the pump back into the tank. Don't force it in the tank. Your O-ring may not be seated properly and you want to avoid shearing pieces off if you pinch it.
To install just do the steps backwards.
1. Put the tank back on the brackets and get the threads started.
2. Attach your breather tube on the top of tank.
3. Install your fuel lines and electrical back on pump. Did you remember the order?
4. Re-attach your fill hose
5.Tighten your bolts on your mounting bands
I did it twice on mine, first one was a bad pump, but I would estimate the time on this to be an 1hr to 1.5 hours.
Get a tow truck and save your Blazer. The guy is not a mechanic, he's a half-wit parts swapper who doesn't know what he is doing!
For example: Any one armed blind man can replace a ABS control unit on a 1991 Blazer with 4WAL brakes but none of them will tell you they don't know how to bleed it. That job will cost about $1500 on a car that is no worth $1500.
. Don't let the ASE Certified symbol or shoulder patch that all auto mechanics wear fool you, it means absolutly nothing. It is just a "come-on" to get your business. No one can fail the ASE Certification Test.
Learn how to do the auto repair work yourself....because you certainly cannot beat the pay.
That tends to defeat the purpose of Forum. Best to keep the conversation here so everyone benefits.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
AC Delco fuel pump and sender, MU112 (GM-25878731) ...$343
AC Delco Strainer, TS102 (GM-25179682).........$36
Airtex harness WH3006...........$10
Your application may vary.
It is a job that I would not want to do and I have heard from others who have replaced the fuel pump themselves and they said they would not want to do it again. For a person that is unfamiliar with the job, it will take at least 4 to 6 hours.