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Comments
Thanks, Bob
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Not sure if this is related or not but...My A/C was intermittent in my 2003 Envoy. The external temp gauge was reading 50 on 90+ June days. It appears that the 'The ambient air temperature sensor' needed replacing. It mounts near the radiator. I replaced it in 10 mins and the part cost $21. The dealer was going to charge $200.
If you replace it, you need to update the ambient air temperature display on the HVAC control module, perform the following procedure:
1- Turn ON the ignition.
2.-Simultaneously press the MODE, FRONT DEFROST and REAR DEFROST switches.
This process worked a couple of times before I was able to replace the sensor. Hope this helps!!!
and is it possible to do any of this without removing the engine or Rad and fan as there is very little clearance in there I had enough trouble getting the connector apart to put the meter on it.
Thanks in advance.
Has anyone had an issue with the top of the rear lift (the part that holds the rear brake light) coming off? We were driving down the highway and it totally blew off. The rear hatch window is still intact, but will most likely break when they try to straighten the mounts that are attached to the window. Have had no accidents or vandalism to the car.
I would recommend taking the vehicle to the dealer. They will be able to assist in getting the vents operational.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I am surprised to hear the Envoys all having the same problem and GM does not recall to fix the problem. With so many different Envoys having the same problem it's obvious this is a faulty part. After doing some research for my current problem, I have learned other issues I had fixed (my clutch fan replaced and the entire electrical system going out) have happened to many other Envoy owners as well. I realize when a vehicle gets old things start going bad however, if the same issue/problem comes up with so many different Envoys it's pretty obvious there is a problem with the part.
I even found a website stating the problems that have come up with the 2002 Envoys and what to expect if you buy one. The clutch fan and electrical problem were the #1 issues!
A/C Expansion Valve? Ambient Air Temp Sensor? A/C High Pressure Cut-out Switch?
Anyone have any ideas -
Thanks
Steve
An occasional problem on this vehicle is the failure of the A/C Low Pressure Cycling Switch. The cost to replace the A/C Low Pressure Cycling Switch is estimated at $43.19 for parts and $32.50 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
I followed the instructions and jumped the wire (bypassing the low pressure switch) and it totally worked. I could almost twist this part off by hand. I am going to pick the part up at the dealership tomorrow. I had the part off and back on again in about 30 seconds.
Here is the a very good link that i started with. Good picture of the part. Wish I had known this last week when it was 100 degrees! 90's this week though...
http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-128.pdf
The Owner/Mechanic found out that my AC was low. Had 2.1 psi and needed to have 3.0. All checked out ok.
Good luck. Spent 92 dollars.
04 'Voy SLT-- We had the same issue with the AC/heater blower working intermittently and not shutting off. In my 45 years in working in, under, over, etc with cars, I had never experienced any electrical accessory not shutting off when the key was off and out of the car!
However, thank God for these type of Internet forums. If it wasn't for them, we would be at the mercy of the dealership service centers and/or repair manuals. The former will all know rip us off, sometimes not solving/remedying our car woes. The latter do not always explain details about a repair, teardown, and/or re-assembly well enough for first-timers or DIYers.
With the help of you posters, I ordered ACDelco Part #15-80567, Heater & AC Blower Control from Rock Auto for a cost of $73.79, plus $5.65 USPS Priority Mail shipping charges to Southern California. By week's end (Fri., 8/26), I had the part in my hands. Fast shipping, as the part was shipped from Wisconsin.
The install was quite simple.
Remove the plastic kick panel (the one that surrounds the two round "drain tube" ends facing your passenger's feet) under the glove box (two hex screws on each end. There are three socket couplers that are attached to this panel that you will have to work out of their holes. They are quite troublesome (I hate these type of "one way, push in attachers) to take out without damaging them. Once you get the 3 couplers unattached, you simply take out this panel and place it aside.
You will be able to see the switch, which is attached to the blower cavity from below. The switch is visible when you look up toward the windshield from below the glovebox. It will have a 3-wire male socket attached to it's face (the face bears a 3-wire female socket) that bears a white part number label to it. Leading from the switch is a 2-wire (black and violet colored wires) male connector.
There is a spring retainer that holds the glovebox in the open position (so it won't drop on your passengers lap when opened) that you must spring bend up to let the glovebox drop down so you can gain access to the 3-pin connector that is attached to the blower motor itself.
Incidentally, the cars with ATC take the 3-pin connector switch, while the manual control AC cars will take the 7-pin switch.
After dropping down the glovebox, you will see the 2-wire (black and violet) switch connector. Again, this connector type can be quite difficult to separate without damaging it, so be careful. Once you separate this connector, you should then close the glovebox and look for how the switch is attached to the blower cavity.
The switch is attached with two hex screws. A 1/4" ratchet drive/socket set is a must for this whole project.
Once the two screws are out, the switch will drop down and it is a simple matter reassembly in reverse order.
It took me about 30 total minutes for this whole operation and the AC works as good as new!
No comment on why this part failed so early in this 'Voy's life, it only has 54,000 miles on it). My Honda CRV has 190,000 and hasn't had any electronic issues (or otherwise) other than a factory recall/replacement of the ignition switch).
Is it true that Japanese cars are more reliable and error-free than Detroit products?
I do have pic's of the switch and part number on the ACDelco box in case anyone is interested. But I do not know how to post pic's on this web site.
My first car was a 1955 Chevy Bel-Aire V8. My second was a 1966 Pontiac GTO... And I've had various other Detroit products in my garage over the years. The sixties and previous were the days during which the Big Three were riding high. Oh, of course, there are those divisions within each of the Big Three that have consistently produced good products (Cadillac and GMC Truck Division are just two examples).
Detroit, in general, would gleam with pride when airliners full of Japanese executives, engineers, and technicians would fly to Motown to see how Detroit built cars. The Japanese teams would then fly back to Tokyo and improve on what they saw in Detroit. The rest is history. All that those old fogies that ruled the Big Three were interested in is fattening up their bank accounts. We eventually lost the war.
I currently own six autos. Two are Japanese, one German, and three American (all classic era cars). The Japanese cars (Honda CRV and Toyota Tundra) are by far the most reliable, followed by the German car (a classic 1986 VW Cabriolet). The three American cars ( a 1990 Komfort motorhome on a GMC P-30 chassis, a 1968 Dodge Charger RT, and a 1965 Pontiac GTO) are all from classic eras during which Detroit built cars well and reliable.
Obviously, we all know what kind of cars Detroit was building in the 70's and 80's. And, we all know that Detroit found themselves at a crossroads demanding that they build reliable cars near equal to products out of Tokyo, Munich, Berlin, and Seoul in order to survive in today's marketplace. Detroit is nearer equal, but still has a lot to makeup, if it ever will to ward off the competition over the globe.
The issues with the AC in Trailblazers/Envoys listed in this thread all point to what GM is still building AND THERE APPARENT LACK OF INTEREST IN SOLUTIONS FOR CURRENT OWNERS! Do they honestly think that people who are having these issues will ever buy these products again? Have they forgotten how badly Tokyo, Seoul, Munich, and Berlin buried them. Chrysler, GM, and Ford are but shells of what they used to be.
And, those old fogies that used to run the Big Three? Well, they laughed all the way to the bank. They are now in their mansions, on their ranches, and/or on their yachts enjoying their millions--which, quite frankly, all they really cared about...
Were you planning on having the vehicle fixed by a GM dealership? Please keep me posted.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Yesterday as I was driving I noticed that the AC blower speed was not changing as I pressed the buttons to change speed. If you shut the entire climate control unit off, the fans continue to blow through the defroster. This happens even after you shut the vehicle off and pulled the key out of the ignition.
The only way I found to shut the blower off is to remove the fuse under the hood.
Is this a blower issue or is it in control unit itself? What can I do to narrow down the possible causes and/or solutions? Thank you for your help.
I would love to see the pictures that you have so that I know what I'm looking at as I diagnose this issue. It sounds like I may have to order the same part.
Thanks for everything.
Matt
I just did the resistor on my minivan - part from RockAuto.com was around $35 with shipping.
Is this normal? Could it be a faulty part?
After reading these posts, I really starting to regret buying my 06 Envoy!
Sarah
GM Customer Service
:confuse:
The AC starts off cooling and then quits, the blower works but no cold air. We have replaced the ambient the sensor which worked several months last summer but not this year, replaced it again, replaced high and low pressure switches and the fan clutch this year but still no AC. this week they will test the compressor and the heads. Anyone have any more suggestions.
I am not too happy with GM at the moment and am planning to trade my vehicle in sometime this year but I don't think it will be another GM product.