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Towing hitch, the V6 and V8 models use different hitch, 5000 # vs 7000 # equalizing .
www.autoleatherinc.com sells a kit for $385, and they are extremely highly rated by customers who have purchased and installed their own. Any responses would be much appreciated. Before I go ahead and buy I want to know what im getting myself into.
That does help some.......... thanks!
seats don't rock either.
I do have a transmission oil dipstick in my highly prized, extremely rare and valuable, much sought by collectors, Titanium Silver, genuine gray plastic clad 2003 Sport V-8. ;-)
My advice is to be proactive with the dealer prior to delivery. For example, tell your sales person that you are aware that some 4Runner's seat bottoms are a bit loose. If yours is like that, tell him/her that you want it taken care of PRIOR to delivery.
My 4Runner has the sulfer smell, but I only notice it with the rear window down under slightly harder acceleration. If I ever have to take my 2003 in for warranty work (knock on wood), I'll ask them to address the TSB on the exhaust.
The good:
No engine noise.
No sulfur smell.
No leaks.
No sunroof rattles.
No seat problems.
Gas Mileage! According to trip computer 21.7 mpg. Reality. 20.3mpg. I'll take that any day in a truck based SUV.
The "wish it was better."
1. Stereo system. Just very average.
2. A/C doesn't cool down very quickly.
3. Cargo system. Wish it wasn't even there. I've found nothing that will fit underneath it. Too small for my fly rods.
Other things you might consider:
(1) Have the vehicle "tuned up" (i.e., changing out spark plugs, PCV valve, fuel filter, timing belt, etc.) every 30,000 miles, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends or claims. Also, have the dealer check the vehicle's oxygen sensors, etc. [Even if a manufacturer may claim that no tune-up or spark plug change is needed during the first 100,000 miles or more, it is often very unwise and lazy to wait this long. Doing so may result in spark plugs that have essentially become heat-welded or corroded into their sockets; extracting those plugs after such a long time may prove very troublesome and costly. If you refuse to pay for a spark plug change at 30,000 miles or even 45,000 miles, you should at least have the old plugs removed and reseated; or at the very least have them loosened and retightened. But if you're willing to go that far, why not just do the right thing and have them replaced?].
(2) Every 2500-3000 miles, add a 20 oz. bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate (fuel system cleaner) to a tank of fuel (put the Techron in first, then fill the tank), and then wait until that tank is nearly gone before refueling.
(3) Get in the habit of using one or two brands of high quality fuel such as Sunoco, Chevron, or Shell. Avoid off-brand, generic, inexpensive fuels whenever possible.
(4) During the coldest months of the year, get in the habit of refueling when the tank reaches half empty, since doing so minimizes the possibility of water condensation in the fuel tank. However, even though this practice will progressively dilute older fuel with fresh fuel, some amount of older fuel always remains in the tank. And, because gasoline actually ages and begins to form varnishes and other deleterious products over time, it is a good idea to run the fuel tank to near empty after every 4th or 5th "half tank" cold weather fill-up, in order to better rid the tank of aging fuel. A great time to do this is during a more extended drive or trip.
(5) When you fuel up, avoid the habit of further "topping off" the fuel tank after the gasoline pump clicks off and stops pumping. Overfilling may lead to a variety of problems such as interfering with emission sensors, oxygen sensors, EGR sensors, etc. In addition, the fuel cap of many modern vehicles performs several important functions which may be related to the above mentioned sensors; overfilling can damage the fuel cap, possibly leading to erroneous sensor readings and the "check engine" light coming on.
(6) If your vehicle is predominantly subjected to short, around-town, stop-and-go miles (which are the harshest miles for a vehicle); it is a good idea to periodically take it out on a freeway (freeway outerbelts are often a good bet) in order to give the engine a good workout. By doing so, the engine, catalytic convertor, etc. will be more likely to reach and sustain temperatures high enough to begin loosening, dislodging, and burning-off carbon deposits, etc.
nonetheless you could go to the TRD website to find out about it. I believe you can link there from the Toyota site or just search for TRD
Thanks.
Can you provide a more detailed description of the vibration. On my 2004 Sport V8, I only notice a vibration through the steering wheel part of the time. It is very difficult to describe. But I would say that only the steering column has the vibration sensation. I am trying to get more information before I take it to the dealer for service. Mine has less than 3000 miles on it. How many others out there have the problem, and can you provide a more precise description. In my case, it does not feel like an unbalance tires, since the wheel does not vibrate differently at different speeds.
My vehicle came with the Dunlops, then I tried a set of Goodyear tires, still no fix. Now I'm onto the Michelin Cross Terrains. The Cross Terrains felt pretty good at first, but after a few hundered miles they too demonstrate the problem.
My conclusion is that there is no fix at this point.
This seems like a potential class action suite to me.
-Eric
In brief, neither tires nor wheels (rims) are ever "perfectly" round. Instead, they often have very subtle high and low spots, and these imperfections in roundness can occasionally cause vexing vibrations at higher speeds. Spin balancing does nothing to remedy this problem, but road-force balancing can often greatly reduce or elminate the problem. How?
Basically, road-force balancing is a method for identifying the high or low spots on both the tire and its wheel. A given tire and wheel are placed on the machine and the tire is then subjected to a pressure or weight load which simulates "road forces". By monitoring tire pressure changes as the tire/wheel rotate on the machine, any significant irregularities in the shape of the tire/wheel can be identified and marked. Once this is done, the technician will basically remove the tire and then remount it on the rim, only this time they match the tire's high spot to the rim's low spot (or vise versa) in a complementary fashion. The end result tends to be a relative "cancellation" of any previous shape irregularities, resulting in a smoother ride.
Expect to pay around $70.00-$130.00 for road- force balancing of a set of 4 tires. If your dealer doesn't have a road-force balancer, try calling other dealerships (Toyota and others) and tire shops in your area. Also, note that if a tire must be remounted or replaced at a later time, it will need to be re-balanced on a road- force balancer.
I had my 4Runner's Michelin Cross Terrains road-force balanced shortly after I bought the vehicle, not because of a problem, but rather as a matter of routine.
Thank you,
Joaquin
Sweet lord almighty.
-Jared
The S/C 4Runner does about 5.9 sec. in a quater mile.
BTW that stock option retails for about $4500.00 and right now Toyota has them on hold and hasn't released any S/C's for months now. There must be a problem with them right now.
And it still isn't the quickest on the market. What about the cayenne twin turbo and the FX45
Is this information on the web somewhere?
I don't think you mean quarter mile times. The times you gave look to me like they are 0-60 times.
I don't think the new engine will improve acceleration drastically but I'm sure it will make some difference. I think the best part about it will be the improved gas mileage which I can tell you is not that great with the current V8 but I'm not complaining because I love this truck and its' V8.
Steve, Host
I've been shopping looms and many of them are buyer pickup only, fwiw.
Steve, Host
Second, to get into 4hi just make sure you are under the recommended speed and shift the lever to 4hi (I'm almost positive that the '01 4runners could be shifted on-the-fly)
To go into 4lo, which would only be needed in HEAVY snow, deep mud or serious 4 wheeling, you will need to stop and then shift the lever to 4 lo.