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Jeep Liberty Diesel seeing other problems?

hammerboyonehammerboyone Member Posts: 5
edited August 2014 in Jeep
hello all ... first of all i have read many of your posts. thanks. now to why im here... i have a 2005 crd with 45000ml .. up till now i have been real happy with only the basic trouble and recalls. i have all my work done at my local dealer that has only one jeep crd certifide mechanic. i have an ongoing problem that i have not read anything about..my crd looses all power after a heavy run..it don't happen all the time and only is rectified bye pulling over and shutting the truck off/and restarting it.. this has happend several time over the last year and getting more common.i have had the truck in the shop a few times and have been told differant things each time ..well the last few times ive been in there i have noticed that there is a 2006 crd sport sitting in the same stall each time .. after talking to the mechanic i soon found out that it has just been "bought back" from the owner. it has had many of the troubles that i read about but the transmition shutter and the unexplained loss of power was it's final straw. ive just been told that my turbo is bad and that it will be several weeks before it will be fixed due to three other crd's with bad turbos that are ahead of mine.. all of which have over 30000 ml's and under 65000 mls . "glad i bought an extended warenty. has anyone else had these problems. if so please let me know. thank you
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi hammerboyone,
    Do you come to a full stop after the "long effort"?
    I noticed sometimes by selecting Neutral then Drive again, or just by pushing the brake pedal the converter gets loose again and I don't stay in a creep mode anymore. This normally occurs when I slow down to 20mph without braking: the tranny remains in 2nd gear with the converter locked. It's just a bug in the program :surprise:
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    hammerboyonehammerboyone Member Posts: 5
    :cry: Hello caribou1, I've tried everything from shifting to N. to stopping and letting the truck idle . I was told that some new auto computers have a safe more build into them... not sure if the liberty does but that would make alot of sence to what is happining... The only thing that works with my issue is to completely shut the truck down and restart it..It does sound like a computer issue from what im seeing, shuting it down must reboot the computer im no mechanic but that is what works on my desktop when it crashes...About a month after buying the truck i had an issue were it started running real bad after a trip to the shop and what they said was a loss of the program flash i was on my way. This has been an issue on several differant occations. Then came the trany work (tc) and an "upgrade trans flash" that made the truck drive like a real sissy piese of s***. I took it back right a way .It didn't shift like it did when i bought it.In matter of fact, if it ran like that from day one, i would not have bought it. After four trips back and countless hours on the phone , it was close to the way it was before but because of the tc work and the detune that come as part of it ,the truck didn't have the power it had beforehand. Sence then i have installed several upgrades to the truck .I installed a K&N airfilter that brought the performance back too or mayby alittle more then it was before the TC work.That is when the thing runs. I gained about 2 mpg and the turbo lag wis not as bad. but now with whatever this problem is Now ,there are times im lucky to get 12mpg .
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Assuming your computer still operates as it should, when you get bad mileage and miserable acceleration, it seems the engine doesn't always detect boost pressure. I also used K&N without any success. You can try disconnecting the battery a few hours to reset the tranny and go through "teach mode". It's not my favorite because you reset everything including the radio, but there is no risk with electronics. Winter fuel is also a pain: it's 20% less mileage in my case :sick:

    If you don't mind getting your hands dirty, pull out your boost sensor and turbo vanes actuator filter. When no error code shows up on the console, you need a bit of luck or lots of money to understand what's going on. This is what I called our "Sword of Damocles" a few years ago...
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    hammerboyonehammerboyone Member Posts: 5
    well here is a new twist to the problem... This morning there was another episode and i called my local shop" jeep dealer". and got a true look at what makes them up.. First i told them what happend and told them that there was no check engine light when it happend "same as other times". which there reply was there will be no record of it in the computer, so there is really only one of two courses of action.. 1: drive the truck "easy" until it goes in for the service work on the turbo. which he also told me that the parts may not be in for several weeks..This makes me uneasy ,not because i beat it. but because i drive quite a bit to&fro for work. Driving both highway and city..OR 2:take the truck in now and leave it there until they see the problem happen or they see some sign of something going on.. WOW .. it's only just come back out two days ago to which i was told there is nothing wrong with it.. or at least they have no record of something strange because the computer didn't record it.. this at first didn't seem like a bad way to go until the service manager told me that evan thoe i have a warrenty.. the dealer can't give me a loaner unless i pay for it ... SURE RIGHT...let's see now i told him and made mention to the crd sporyt that is sitting in the same stall now for going on two months.. Well i still have the truck... i also made mention to the fact that i wont stand for what i see as a stalling situation .seeing i have now 45000miles and only a 60000mile warreny.. :mad:
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hammerboyone,
    Ask yourself what the computer cannot see:
    - the cleanliness and efficiency of the individual filters
    (diesel fuel, intake air, turbo vanes vacuum line)
    These 3 items are the cheapest consumables of the lot.

    Practically all the other elements are electrically controlled. If you had EGR problems you would generate lots of black smoke in one condition and a Lambda sensor error in the other. If I were in your case, I would change these filters first. This can cost you less than driving back and forth to the dealership.
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    hammerboyonehammerboyone Member Posts: 5
    all filters were just changed,less then 500 mile ago..and as for the ERG. has been replaced twice and the air pump once.
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Try another CRD :confuse:

    When I reached 60,000 miles the maintenance cost me far too much money. Since then I have an enormous rattle, mushy performance, air in the brake line, damaged a/c plumbing, and no more limited slip differential because the dealership used a friction additive in the rear differential. They got everything wrong this time and it's a pain to end up fixing the truck myself.

    Some manufacturers offer 5 years warranty, so customers must go to the dealership during these 5 years otherwise they loose their warranty. This is their latest trick to grab our money.
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    cornbread1cornbread1 Member Posts: 3
    :lemon: Hammerboyone I had the ezact same problem with my 06 CRD an Jeep dealership could never figure it out. I would reconmend that you notify DaimlerChrysler by registered or express mail about your jeep.You can find a form in your OWNER'S RIGHTS UNDER STATE LEMON LAWS hand book. By doing so Jeep's main office will have to get involved to resolve the problem. Research the lemon law for your state so they can't pull the wool over your eyes and trust me they will try. On my CRD the missing,lack of power,and sometimes stalling started just every now and then but over time it got worse. This is very dangerous to drive because you never know when it will happen. What will happen if pull out infront of traffic and mash the throttle to the floor and instead of putting 295 foot pounds of torque to the ground you don't have enough power to get out your on way. This happend to me and I about got hit.I hope this was helpfull and I wish you the best of luck in getting your problem resloved.
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    tclufftcluff Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    I have a 2005 liberty CRD and it 90,000 miles on it. recently I have experienced smoking from the exhaust at idle. I replaced the pressure relief valve for the crankcase which is connected to the intake (preturbo). That did not solve my problem. I either have a turbo with bad seals or the engine is losing ring compression. After reading your message I am leaning more towards bad turbo. I have no warranty left so have gone on line to find a replacement turbo. The turbo is made by Garrett and I found one for $795.00 exchange. this is about 1200.00 less than the list at the dealer. What I am wondering is if anyone has experienced this oil burning smoke prior to finding out the turbo is bad or if I might have a larger problem in the engine.
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    caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Worn piston rings affect general engine performance, worn exhaust valve guides will let oil in the combustion chamber mainly during deceleration and leaking turbo seals should give you an engine malfunction error via the Lambda sensor. When turbo seals are worn, the higher the oil pressure (or engine RPM) the more smoke you should produce.
    The first test is to check your engine compressions (4) taken through the glow-plug holes. Then monitor the engine oil pressure with a manometer instead of using the digital information; a good technician will evaluate the condition of the engine by observing the oil pressure variations. Perhaps your oil is not thick enough? Some turbos only last 100,000 miles :sick:
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    winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I have had one turbo car previously, a 1985 Dodge 2.2L turbo and it never gave me a lick of trouble (the turbo) in 125K miles. I have nearly 65K miles on my 2005 CRD and the turbo runs fine. What I have learned about turbos from my Dodge pretty much applies to the CRD.

    1. Be gentle with the engine and turbo for the first three to five miles of driving this is in spite of the fact we all use (hopefully) synthetic oil in the engine.

    2. After driving any length of time or speed, it is good to let the turbo cool down before engine shutdown. The user's guide tells you how long and then add 50% more time.

    3. Change oil and filter more frequently than called for by the manufacturer. It may seem like a waste of money and time but it is cheaper than replacing major engine components.

    4. If you are using Mobil 1 0W-40, then you are asking for trouble. Several Jeep dealers I know of, including the one I use, do not use Mobil 1 any longer in any of the diesels or the spark ignition engines. The dealer I use gets RedLine 5W-40 diesel oil. I use it and I have been happy with it for some time.

    5. Smoke at idle is as I see it not a turbo issue. Are you having oil consumption issues? You do not tell us what kind or color the smoke is so it makes it hard to diagnose the issue.
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    troyster1troyster1 Member Posts: 1
    tcluff,

    My turbo is starting to leak oil and I have experienced the loss of power and restarting the vehicle twice within the last 4 months and increasing black smoke at higher RPMs. Also have an EGR engine code. I currently have oaver 140K miles, so I guess it's about time. I was wondering where you found the Garrett turbo for $795 and what model is it?
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