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2009 Toyota Corolla Problems and Repairs



  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,689
    I don't think the 64mm is correct, because the Toyota part # 09228-06500-02 is made by SPX Corp. and is listed as a 65mm.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    Yes you are correct. I apologize for the misinformation. You need the cap wrench that fits 65mm only. The 65mm-67mm wrench is the one that slips. I bought my 65mm cap wrench at Advance Auto Parts for $4.00 I hope I didn't confuse anybody. I repeat, you need the cap wrench that fits 65mm only.
    Disregard my post number #564
  • I made some progress on the disassembly of the 1.8L engine.

    All the valve train components have been removed and
    disassembled including: both camshafts, valves, springs and
    timing chain, head and gasket. Nothing really impressive
    except the cam gears assembly that allows for the VVT (variable
    valve timing).

    I found it interesting that this teardown engine was also
    missing the oil filter plastic cap......people might be having
    to replace these if they use improper means/tools for service.
  • I owe Corolla S 2009 since April 2008. All this time I have being monitoring oil consumption in my car.
    My Corolla's engine is burning the oil. Between the oil changes(every 8 000 km) I have to add 2 L .
    Besides, it is kind of difficult to read the oil mark on my Corolla after 20-30 min of turning the engine off. To see it clear(like in all cars I drove before) I have to wate 1-2 hrs, but the best is in the morning, after car is resting for 8-10 hrs.

    Does anybody mention this ubnormality.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,689
    There is a TSB out for this problem - just involves a simple ECM (engine control module) reprogramming. Just take it to your dealer and the problem should be solved.
  • Thanks for your advice. I took the car to the dealership and they had a difficulties with reprogramming, so they ordered a new computer and two days later installed in my car.
    I will continue monitoring the oil level and let you know if it helps.
    By the way, the TSB for Canada is: #TSB3046.
  • Just received my new oil filter wrench and I'm happy to report
    it fits the filter cap perfectly.....not loose, not too tight, and goes
    completely on.

    It's made by Assenmacher Specialty Tools model # TOY 640.

    And the big surprise..... it's marked as 64mm.

    Previously I did all my oil changes at the base hobby shop
    utilyzing all their specialty tools and nice drive-on lifts, but
    it's now closed so they can build a new facility so I'll be
    using my garage for awhile.
  • I agree with Backy. I just had my 09 Corolla into the dealership last night for the brake recall as some Canadian cars were affected.
    I would contact Toyota head office if you don't get anywhere with your dealer
  • Where did you buy it?
  • I feel your pain! Here's my story...I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla as well. I had my brakes done 3 times since I bought my car in May of 2008. The first time they replaced them, no problem. The second time they replaced them they said they resurfaced the rotors and that's all it needed. Then when they were grinding once again they said no we are not going to cover this repair. I fought with the dealer and Toyota and finally they resurfaced the rotors and the brakes once again. Personally I think they should replace them the right way. NEW BRAKES AND NEW ROTORS like any other mechanical repair shop. They were cutting corners and jeopardizing my family's safety by not doing it right. Seriously, who has brakes that go out every 3 months? No one I know. Does Toyota care? NOT AT ALL!!! They also stated on my last repair slip that there would be no more "covered" brake repairs by Toyota from that day forward. Period! Then while talking to them, they started drilling me on my driving saying that it is the driver that causes the brakes to fail so quickly, and it's not the car so they should not be liable for the repair! OMG! This customer service sucks and so do the brakes! I told them that my family has possession of all the repair slips for the brakes and if anyone gets hurt or dies as a result of the brakes failing, they would be sued for murder, knowing that this car has brake problems and they are unwilling to work with me "the customer". I guess customer safety and health is no longer an issue with Toyota! Next time I buy a car it will not be Toyota. My money will be spent elsewhere.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    A couple of things. First of all you don't state if your car was part of the recall or was it just a wear and tear problem on your end? If your car was recalled then yes you are correct, they should have replaced both rotors and brake pads if they were part of the recall. If it was just wear and tear on your end then they did you a favor by fixing your car for free. Wear and tear is clearly not covered in the warranty for almost any type of car. Another note, grinding rotors down instead of replacement is a very common and acceptable means to put a new, flat surface on your discs for the pads to push against. But, here again, if it was a recall new rotors should have been used. I hope you don't have any further problems with your car.
  • Got to and do a search for: avalon oil filter wrench.

    Cost about $18 shipped.

    Cheaper ones are available at some auto parts stores but
    be warned many slip especially the plastic ones or those
    that fit multiple sizes....such as those marked 64-67mm.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    Autozone and Advance Auto have the metal 65mm size for less than $10.00. If you buy the 65mm only, it won't slip. Buy the combo. 64-67 and it will slip.
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 5,167
    Had owned 2 Corolla's & 2 Camry's in the past and the brakes really sucked...very low pedal with grinding noises. Toyota repaired all four cars under warranty but the problems eventually came back. We decided to ditch Toyota for that reason alone and have never looked back. The current Mazda3 in our fleet emits a lot of brake dust but pedal modulation is very good actually...have seen many other Mazda3's & Volvo S40's with the same rear brake dust we live with the issue. My Civic has great brakes but I tend to be hard on them, just replaced the front pads at 23k miles/3 years ownership. No brake dust issues either.

    Am very impressed with my kids Accent & Versa's brakes also...both have the abs option and no brake dust issues. Hopefully the next ride wifey chooses won't have the brake dust issues but she plans to keep it another year or two...which is good as the car has shown almost perfect reliability. I now she'll check out the new generation Mazda3 first when she's ready. She absolutely loves the ease of driving her 3 and I'd be quite happy for another 3S next time.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2)

  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,689
    My '99 Corolla (8th generation) still had the original rear brakes at 115,000 miles and the front pads were replaced and rotors turned once at around 70,000 miles. Most of this time was about 65% 2 lane highway with traffic lights, 35% city. I've had nothing but good experiences with Toyota brakes starting with the 7th generation Corolla (93-97). The 6th generation (88-92) - not as good.

    Other people I've known with 7th generation or newer Corollas tell me similar stories about how pleased they are with the brakes.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    My 2009 XLE is my fourth Corolla. All of my Corolla's brakes always lasted very long for me before needing replacement. Making this more remarkable is the fact that 90 % of my driving is city driving. Of course I am not hard on brakes like some are. I don't speed up to red lights or stop signs and then jam on the brakes.
  • I've had my 09 Corolla LE for about 18 months and don't have
    any complaints about the brakes....although I am very easy on
    the brakes coasting to most stops, anticipating slowdowns
    and using light pressure most of the time so my front pads
    should last for many years.
    In 1986 I bought a new Toyota pickup that I had for 10 years
    and about 140K miles and NEVER had to replace the brakes.
    And yes, it still had material left on the shoes ( back then front
    and rear was shoes) it passed state inspection each year. In
    fact that truck was so reliable the only items I ever replaced other
    normal maintenance was the fan belt and 1 tire.

    My previous Malibu had awful brakes that felt spongy
    and even when the car was new the pedal would slowly go
    almost to the floor by the time you were stopped. Dealer
    told me this was normal and sure enough when I had the
    occassion to drive another NEW Malibu they operated the same.

    So the Corolla brakes to me are just fine.
  • Can someone explain to me why a 15,000 mile maintenance costs so much. I have been quoted by two dealerships, one quote was for $290.00 and the other for $238.50. This quote excludes tire rotation and oil change as I had those done not very long ago. Is this price a rip off or what? This is in Miami, Florida.
  • cpu8900cpu8900 Posts: 53
    To answer that question you first have to understand
    how a typical dealership makes money. Most make
    higher profits from the repair/body/parts shop than selling
    Additionally, realize that the shop labor rate is about $90/HR.
    Of course the tech. doesn't make that much but shares
    with the dealer.
    So the price you quoted is probably for about 2.5 hrs. of labor
    since you didn't mention any parts/consumables.
    Whether or not it's a ripoff can only be answered by those
    that feel the service keeps their car safe, reliable, and within
    the guidelines established to keep the factory WARRANTY
    in place.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    To answer you very plainly, yes it is a BIG RIPOFF! My 2009 XLE is my fourth Toyota Corolla. Never have I taken any of my Corollas for any of the specified mileage check-ups/maintenance. All I ever did was changed my oil every 3000 miles and rotate my tires at 7000 miles all myself. My Corollas have never left me down and yet and my oldest Corolla has 152,000 miles on it. Should I ever need warranty service I save all oil and filter receipts or any receipts I accumulate pertaining to my cars and I'm covered. You can do the same thing. I'm not saying do it yourself like I do but go to a private garage and have them only do the required service and you will also save a lot of money and yet keep your warranty in full force.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,689
    True. These 15, 30, 45, etc maintenance things that the dealerships put out are a big rip-off.

    Just do what your maintenance schedule with the owner's manual tells you to do, which, I think at 15,000, is change the oil and rotate the tires. It might tell you to change the cabin air filter also - that's a 2 minute job that anyone can do, but the dealer will charge you $50, the part is only $15 (Toyota part cost).
  • Hi Guys..

    I have Corolla 2009 LE, the RPM stays very high. I am not sure is it a problem or the engine is designed like that. The engine roars at 70 mph as if it is running at 90 mph... I have taken few readings ..

    Speed (mph) ----------- RPM

    55 --------------------------- 3.1
    65 --------------------------- 3.7
    75 --------------------------- 4.7
    85 --------------------------- 5.2

    Idle at .8, is it normal to have that high RPM.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,689
    Are you sure you don't have it accidently in 3rd gear? I bet you do. Please check your owner's manual. Idle at 800 is normal.
  • @msdawgg : Thanks for replying... Its automatic transmission and I drive it it in 3-D stick position... is that correct ??
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,689
    That's the problem - please check your owner's manual. 3 position means it won't let it shift up to 4th, so the RPMs will be really high. I don't have an automatic, but I think you should be in just plain "D". Again, please check the owner's manual, or you can wait for someone here with an automatic to reply.
  • Thanks a lot mcdawwg... Yes i was driving in 3... u saved my engine and transmission... i used to drive manual earlier and then bought this automatic transmission...I wasn't sure of the difference between 3 and D until today ( already drove 7k miles in 3rd gear).. hope my engine is fine.... after reading your reply I checked my owners manual and test drove my car in D is much quieter now and rpm stays below 3000 even in 70 mph.. thanks again for ur help....
  • loncliplonclip Posts: 13
    When I test drove my 09 Corolla it was in 3rd instead of 4th until I noticed that the stick was in that position. I felt like a dunce but the other cars I had driven always went down the clicks not across ! As can be seen from my previous posts about brakes, you can tell I am not a fan of Toyota or its way of making cars.

    I wouldn`t think there will be any problem with undue wear as autos used to drive in 3rd all the time before overdrive came along. I`ll bet mileage will improve dramatically though. That is the one bright spot of owning a Corolla. I am getting great mileage and will miss it when I go to a mid-sized Ford.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    not only that, but mcdawwg will save you a lot of money on gas now that you're in D. :P
  • cpu8900cpu8900 Posts: 53
    Recently completed another 1k mile trip in the LE. Car ran just
    fine and the computer said avg. mileage was 40.3 mpg.

    Now to complete the remaining disassembly of the 1.8L
    teardown engine.
  • My 2009 Toyota Corolla (@ 4500 km) is recently making a hissing noise. Is this a common problem? What should I do to resolve this problem?
  • loncliplonclip Posts: 13
    I`ve noticed no hissing in my 09 Corolla so I would say this is not normal and should be checked by the dealer service department. I would guess the hiss probably comes from a vacuum leak somewhere though I can`t imagine how a car that new would have a loose or broken/split vacuum line......oh right, it`s a Toyota!! :lemon:
  • jsol20jsol20 Posts: 1
    i took my toyota corolla srx 2009 in, it was making a odd clicking noise and then a hiss like noise. they short block went out at 4000 miles! i was told that the balancing shift is out! this is a big bummer i recommend you take it in ASAP!
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    Received my recall notice yesterday for the "09"/"10" Corolla brake vacuum port freezing problem. Trying to decide if I want to take my car in for this repair. I don't live in one of the 19 colder states listed, but still eligible for the repair if I decide to. This recall affects Corollas with the 2ZR-FE (1.8 liter) engines. Any other feelings about this 2009/2010 recall?
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    I take it your not happy with your purchase ?????
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,689
    Well, you don't have to do it right away, so take your time and do it when you have a chance. Of course, if you have to go to the dealer anytime for something else, just do it then. I'm not sure, but they might have to change the brake fluid as part of the repair, so you'd get a free brake fluid replacement!!
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    They don't have to change the brake fluid at all.

    The recall involves a new part added to the intake manifold to relocate the vacuum draw line for the booster from the bottom to the top.

    Apparently, water condensate was blocking the draw line and preventing the booster from working properly in the old design. In really bad cases the intake manifold itself, which is plastic, was being split by the accumulation of freezing water condensate.

    The new design relocates that line port above the potential water condensate level and thus solves the potential problem.
  • Took my corolla in for my 30K service, I had them do that and also the recall. I do not live in one of the 19 states but in MA it gets cold so I wanted it done and they did all the work, 30k service, alignment and recall all in under 2 hrs. So I think the recall is a fast repair.
  • Is is true that with this yr. model vehicle that the car is slower to switch into overdrive if the temperature is cold. I was told this would happen, because the oil is cold and needs to warm.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    In any car, regardless of make or model, the transmission can be slow in shifting in very cold temperatures until the fluids warm up to operating temperature. On a related note, this is why they always recommend to avoid over revving your engine on a cold day also when first starting it up. Because motor oil has a tendency to thicken when cold the engine oil is slow to reach those vital engine components for lubrication which can result in premature frictional wear. Remember the phrase "as cold as molasses in January" think of that on a much milder scale.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,689
    See your owner's manual. It will tell you that it will not shift into overdrive until the engine is warm. Basically, the reason is for emissions - all the automakers have to get the engine warm quickly to reduce pollution.
  • I don't know if you have a warranty but I would think if you qualify for the recall, you should take it. They will be responsible for any further issues that could come from that recall so what is the loss? Brakes are pretty important if you ask me. Why not? Do it when it is convenient for you.
  • Have read through the discussions and thought I'd throw my 2 cents in. Just bought a 2009 GMC Savana van that had the same symptoms WITH HYDRAULIC STEERING. Took it to the only alignment shop I trust and the caster and camber were both out on the right side. Corrected, and now the steering is great. My brother works at the Honda plant in Marysville, and he states that NO car manufacturer actually does a "true" alignment when a car is made. It's all done by robot, and if the robot is ever so slightly "off", then the entire series of cars made will be off. And 1 degree on an alignment makes all the difference in the world. I own a 2003 corolla with 156,000 miles on it and have had no problems other than wear and tear items (brake pads at 90,000 miles and an a/c recharge this year). This car was built after the "tweaking" done by Toyota on the initial series of "the first year of a re-design". Maybe that makes it a "2003 1/2"? In short, before trashing the entire model's design, or giving up, have the alignment checked by a shop you trust, if not a dealer. If you take the printout to the dealer, they should handle it under warranty. I'm not ready to say that the electric steering may not have problems, but would have the alignment checked to at least rule out this possiblity ----.
  • ee27 and bakka -- i'm having this same engine noise and dealing with the dealer. They're out there. But finally I got a tech in the car to hear one of two noises -- a rubbing-oscillating sound that is a harmonic vibration in the engine compartment but not in the engine. I haven't taken it in to be fixed just yet. Let's see what they have say about it. I'm waiting now in order to shoot some video/audio of a second and as yet unidentified ticking/tapping/clicking in the engine. The sound is intermittent, usually soft but often medium volume. Once or twice the engine was quite loud. My wife called it Irish delivery truck sound. post back if you get more info; i;ll do the same. M
  • BakkaBakka Posts: 12
    Mine turned out to be in the suspension on the left side for whatever reason. It was not in the engine or the steering.
  • I purchased a 2009 Corolla S in Nov '08. I started having problems with the brakes slipping to the floor two weeks after purchasing the vehicle. I live in Vt., and I had many near collisions related to this. The dealership checked the brakes several times and could find no problems with the car. It always happened sporatically. It happpened when slowing down or coming to a complete stop (I suddenly had no brakes).
    I did go in for the recall in September, but it did not fix the problem. This past week it started up again. Twice within a 12 hour period the brakes went completely and I almost had a bad collision at an intersection with another vehicle. Again Toyota looked at the vehicle and could find nothing wrong. I told them the car is unsafe to be on the road, it needs to be replaced. I also said other Toyota owners need to be warned about the brake failures and they ignored me. I even spoke to Toyota headquarters in California.
    When I asked if other Corolla owners have complained about the brakes slipping since the recall, Toyota's response to me was "mine is the only case on file at this time with corporate". I find this hard to believe.
    If anyone has a similar situation with their brakes please respond.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You mean the brake pedal literally goes right to the floor, or do you mean that the brake pedal suddenly gets very hard and won't stop the car?

    do the brakes come right back when you pump the pedal, and return to normal, or when they fail, do they stay failed?
  • My Corolla has about 40k on it and when I start the car I get a very raspy almost rubbing noise from inside the engine compartment area. It lasts for only a second or two as I turn the engine over and then goes away. Typically I only hear it if the car is cold and not been started for several hours. Any thoughts?

    Also have experienced a starting problem where the engine turns over but the car will not start or when it does start the engine bobbles on for a while before clearing up and running smoothly. This happens after the car sits for several days without being started. Any thoughts

  • Hi, I am having the same starting problem with my Corolla 2009 LE, but the problem happens after the car was sited just one day or so (outside temperature ~ 32-37 F). Additionally, right after it starts the CHECK ENGINE light start blinking, then I need to shut off the car and restart it, then every thing gets "NORMAL". If you smell the smoke coming out of the muffler you will see that it smells a lot to non-ignited gasoline, this means that we have gas but we do not have ignition, so I think that it is an electrical problem. Additionally I checked the charge in the battery and it was right.

    Fortunately the car still is under warranty, so I suggest to take the car to the dealer to have a deep checking.


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'll take a guess that it might be a leaking injector (or two) , which might drip gasoline into the cylinder over the course of a day or two, momentarily fouling that spark plug.

    A momentary check engine light would also indicate a possible temporary misfire, especially if the light then goes off (meaning the problem "fixed" itself by the plug finally cleaning itself off).
  • Thanks. I just dropped the car to the dealer. Tomorrow I will post whatever they told me.

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