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I hope this helps you?
Sarah
GM Customer Service
We were driving down the interstate last night and the truck seemed to jerk a little like it was out of gas (had over a half a tank) then died. pulled over to the side of the road tried to start it a couple times with no luck. Put the Hazards on and in less than 25 minutes the battery was completely dead. We had it towed to the town we were going.......woke up this morning jump started the truck, it started, then died. HELP! Heres to hoping this is an easy fix.....need to get home.
Thanks Heather/Mark
This problem started when we got it back from the AC repair.
We have changed the Fuel Filter but that has had no benefit. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I have an 04 Denali xl. starter cranks but fails to start engine, turn key off then on and it starts with no problem. Any ideas?
So I jump to the obvious conclusion that it must be the alternator, Shop tested and says the alternator is fine. Fuel Filter was changed 6 months ago. Wires and Plugs 6 months ago.
This truck has been one electrical gremlin after another, Maybe this is not electrical but I have had all 4 power window units fail, 3 power window switches failed, Radio Failed , Two Engine Control Modules, door locks on three of the front doors and the rear split doors, wiper motor failed, wiper fluid pump failed, auto 4wd failed, Power Seat Switches have failed, seat heater failed, Power Mirror failed, Power Mirror Control Switch on Drivers door failed, Auto Level control unit failed, Level control pump failed, moon roof motor failed, Home Link System Failed, Onstar went "Obsolete" after a few years, Headlight Wiring Harnesses wore through and killed all the lights, Both Rear Taillights have crumbled and fallen out while driving
Never again will I buy a vehicle in its first year of production let alone in the first moth as I did this one.
I also have modified the muffler and have separated 2.5" stainless steel pipes from the cat back going into a x-cross magnaflow muffler to over the axle and that's it. Didn't have enough money to bring the tail pipes out near the bumpers but that's ok. I don't have any issues like yours though?
So get a OBD-II code reader and start from there and get a GM code book to explain what the codes mean and get them repaired or replaced.
I hope this helps?
We're sorry to hear that your Yukon is having this problem. Have you been able to get it somewhere since your last post? If you are working with a GM dealership on getting this resolved, please let us know as we're happy to check into the progress there (we can be reached by email at socialmedia@gm.com).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
I have an aftermarket remote start, but I have been able to isolate with about 95% certainty that this is not the issue...
I was able to kill the vehicle by disconnecting a fuse, but when I re-start it the issue is still there...
Anybody ever seen this before?
Thanks in advance for any advice...
1st time in dealership: they said it needed a computer update and new spark plug on the engine. So they did that. Mention hybrid battery needed to be replaced and engine wasn't firing. They could not duplicate the stalling issue so they would not fix the battery and told us to bring it back when it happens again.
2nd time dealership: About 4 days later it does it again but this time it wont stop. Jerking the high RPMs and stalling constantly. Take it back to the dealership and they cannot seem to duplicate again. GM tells us we will not authorize any fixes on the car until the car computer spits out an authorized code for the problem.
I am at a loss as to what to do. We paid a lot of money for this piece of junk and all we want is a working car. We are almost up on our warranty and I believe GM is doing their best to make sure we wear it out so we would have to cover the costs.
Read on other forums it is the battery system that is causing the problem, also read GM does their best not to fix it since it is costly! Figures another greedy company that wont cover its own flaws
any advice
Driving a 400 mile trip our 2001 yukon service engine light popped on. Continued driving it for 60 miles (middle of no where, middle of night), nothing. Started it up fine the next day, 40 miles into drive it began 'chugging', as though it were a fuel filter. Fast forward to today, ran the code, emission code - reset that and didn't come back on. Added fuel additive, seemed great. I go to pull out of the driveway and it died. Wouldn't start - would do the initial turn over but wouldn't fire. Hubby had me turn the key without turning it on and decided it was a fuel pump. Borrowed a vehicle, went and bought one, he replaced it...now...
NOTHING! still won't start adn the fuel gauge won't move...it is though it is still out of gas?! Anyone have any suggestions? Please? Let's start with the easiest/cheapest first cause let me tell you, I can not take any more 'kick you when your down' blows this evening!
Thank you~
YEAH!!! fuse was blown!
replaced it, turned key and gas gauge jumped up and instantly could hear the fuel pump working.
CHECK THE ECM-B FUSE!!!
But, every now and then, instead of leaking fuel, the 'Spider' Fuel Injector Assembly won't spray any Fuel into the Engine Cylinders.
When this happens, you'll see one of the following:
One or two (at the most) Cylinders are affected.
This leads to a Misfire Condition and usually specific Cylinder Misfire Trouble Codes.
The entire 'Spider' assembly stops injecting fuel.
When this happens, the vehicle Cranks but doesn't Start.
I think I might be able to help some of you. I bought a used 2002 Denali with 130k miles.I started having the stalling issue within the first couple weeks of owning it. It would stall about every 2 weeks when approaching a stop light, stop sign or sitting idle. It would always restart within a minute. Problem was that it always happened while my wife was driving it. The last time it would not restart. I had to meet her and push it to the side of the road. I had it be towed to the dealership and they called me the next day and told me that it was the fuel pump and it was going to be $1300+. I got them to drop it down to $1250 if they didn't replace the fuel pump which I had already done. I was shocked at the price. I just replaced the fuel pump on my '69 cougar for $20. That's not progress. Anyways, I had to have the work done after they promised me that this would cure my stalling issue. We'll a few weeks later I was driving it and it stalled in a drive-thru. I had to have the staff help push me out of line. While sitting there I noticed that the dummy light was on for low fuel even though I knew I had 3/4 of a tank. I also noticed that all my gauges were dead. So I knew it was something electrical. I removed the key so I didn't kill the battery. After a few minutes I put the key back in and all the gauges came back and it started. I was about 5 minutes from the dealership so I headed there. It died about 4-5 times on the way there and each time I stopped, removed the key, put the key back and it would restart.I was leaving town so I told the dealership they would have it for a week. Well a week went by and they could not reproduce the problem and they were hinting to me that they wanted me to take it back. That's when I started doing my research and found this webpage. I forwarded it to them, I asked them if they did some of the things that were mentioned here. I had to tell them to just leave it running until it occurred. They seemed to care less. Finally after a week and a half before they finally got it to happen again. A few days after that they diagnosed the problem. They said it was the PCM board. They said they were getting faulty readings from it when it stalled. So I spent another $600 for a replacement. This was with a discount for their charging me $1300 for a fuel pump that might not of needed to be replaced. The good news if that it has not stalled since. It has been about 3 months w/o stalling. Boy do I miss my Expedition.
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SO, I verified the fuel pump worked (by removing then shorting where the relay normally closes & turns it on). I then swapped the fuel pump relay with the hi beam relay in the fuse block under the hood. Viola! It finally worked! And confirmed the bad relay by attempting to turn on the hi beams and, guess what, they didn't work. Problem confirmed. $20 relay, 10 months, $2G in parts.
These forums are very helpful to find folks with the same car / truck problems as one has. Unfortunately, people are quick to ask for help and then abandon the community without following up with the solution to their problem(s). PLEASE, if you post QUESTIONS on the forums, post ANSWERS on the forums. Be a contributing member to your communities!