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Thanks for sharing. In response to your question, I still have the engine knock problem and am going to take it into the dealership for a third time to try to repair the vehicle.
On the first trip to be serviced, the dealership said it was the brake booster connect rattling. While this made absolutely no sense to me, I let them have their chance to repair the problem. As you may expect, this did not fix the engine knock. On the second trip, I decided to be more proactive, and printed out the TSB pertaining to loss of power up steep hills. I had hoped the reprogramming of the codes would help the engine, and if I were lucky, would eliminate the engine knock. Unfortunately, this did not fix the problem either.
As for the noise, it definitely sounds like classic engine knock and occurs every time the throttle is applied when the engine is under load. The knock routinely occurs in two circumstances:
1. Going up a steep hill
2. Trying to accelerate when the automatic transmission has it in too low of a gear.
It also seems to be a little more evident/obvious when the vehicle is cold; however, once the vehicle warms up, the engine knock does still occur. It does NOT occur when driving on level terrain, regardless if the engine is cold or warm (or at least it is not loud enough to hear inside the cabin when driving). Of course when driving on level terrain, the engine is not under much of a load either.
Similar to you, we did not notice the engine knock for the first few months we owned the vehicle. That is something I would have immediately picked up on, particularly when test driving the vehicle. The symptoms did not develop until we had driven the vehicle a few months.
As stated above, I plan to take the vehicle back to the dealership a 3rd time. Thanks to everyone who has replied since I posted my original thread a few weeks ago. As I posted before, all I can offer from my end is that the first time I took it to the dealership they did offer the passing comment that another CX-9 had been taken in to be serviced reporting the same problem. Based on some of these replies, perhaps this problem is on a larger scale than just this thread. Perhaps it only applies for a certain period of vehicles coming off the line.
I will keep everyone updated on my developments. Please do the same.
Also, jeebert2: Thanks for the update. Hopefully the VVT actuator is the fix (a long term fix in particular -- it will be interesting to see if you develop the same symptoms after driving a few months, as I originally experienced in my vehicle). I will pass the VVT actuator information along to my dealership. At $2K per vehicle, that is a hefty repair charge. If this is on a larger scale, Mazda could have some problems with costs being that high to repair vehicles that experience this problem.
Recently, my fan has been going on at full blast as soon as I shut the cx-9 off. It seems to be from the center console housing the rear AC controls/vents. I have not yet taken it in since it occurs sporadically so it's pretty much impossible to replicate at any given moment. I have tried to change settings before turning the cx-9 off so I can try to figure out the cause, but I have been unable to figure out if it's being caused by certain settings. I saw an earlier post where the relay was burned and that was causing the issue. Has anyone else had the issue or any new diagnoses? Will mazda cover the fix?
I also have a lot of wind noise from the driver door. You can hear it from about 30 mph and up. I know there was a recall a while back for a door issue, and I supposedly had that fixed, but I still hear the noise. Any one else have the issue or any thoughts?
I plan on taking it in to the dealer, but I would like to have as much background info as I can before I do go in.
Thanks!!!!!!
The A/C issue (full blasting) has been reported. Some electrical problem for sure. You should take it to dealer. If CX9 is within 36K, there is no reason that dealer won't fix it. Some dealers even give you a loaner for repair works.
John
Thanks Again.
Unfortunatley, we are still having problems with the engine knock / rattle.
(very good recording of engine knock / rattle noise can be found at link below)
I have taken it to our dealership three times with no luck in fixing the problem. On the last trip, the dealership kept it for about a week and a half and concluded they could not hear the problem. They told me they had Mazda reps drive in and could not hear it either. Overall, communication to me from the dealership was very poor, but that is another story for another day. I told them I would record the noise.
So now I have the entire thing on video, as well as a very good recording using a USB microphone fixed under the hood. For those that are interested and think they can help, you can get the recording as an attachment in my post here (noticed Edmunds doesn' t allow attachments beyond an image; otherwise, I would have just uploaded to this message):
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123740592
I contacted Mazda Corporate through their 800 number earlier this week, but I have not heard anything from them since that time. They did mention they would call me to coordinate sending some folks out here to ride in the car. They said to not contact the dealer and to wait for them. I told them I had a perfect recording and video and happy to share to help them diagnose the problem, but again, I haven't heard anything yet.
My questions are:
What to do next?
Does Mazda back their vehicles and support their customers?
Any ideas on what the noise could be?
Anyone else with this noise (some have chimed in here - thank you - is this the same noise you heard on your vehicle)?
Any and all help / advice VERY much appreciated.
I did have the airbag recall fixed.
Mazda knows about the rear fan going on when the car is shut off. There is a part to fix it but it is on back order.
Also, I did hear from Mazda Corporate today. They are sending out a regional technical specialist on Tuesday to look at the vehicle. I have provided him with a copy of the recording and will provide him with the complete DVD + full recording on his arrival Tuesday.
I will continue to keep everyone updated on my progress.
Could be a few different things... valves, rings, something thats called "piston slap"
I hope it is something that can be resolved without much inconvenience to you. I personally have had my own issues with my vehicle, and to this day continue to have on going issues. I dont know why they cannot be resolved. I do like the vehicle..but I cannot stand the fact that every 2-3 months im in with the same or more issues. I will probably sell it in a few months
good luck keep us informed
Thanks for the thoughts. As for loss of power -- we no longer experience any, yet the engine knock/rattle remains.
On the second submission to the dealership, they uploaded the updated codes with the TSB related to the loss of power. I was hopeful this would remedy the knock / rattle as it occurs when the vehicle is under load, but unfortunately it did not. The recording was taken after the codes were updated in the vehicle.
Wish you the best of luck in finding the cause and fix it. Keep us posted here.
I am betting on the VVT cam.
Mine Odyssey's AT was shot at 80K with all services on schedule w/ Honda dealers. Honda is still learning how to made transmission. 5-Speed? When the whole world is moving to 6-/7-/8-speed.
I am glad you did not choose QX7. Audi is not exactly know for relibility. Check the ConsumerReports. CX9 is rated mostly red with 1 black hollow circle (means average in hardware). On par with most Toyota vehicles.
Mine had a window styrofoam issues. Other than that, perfect after 16000 miles.
The Mazda regional technical specialist came to my house on Tuesday and rode up the hill with me. I used the same setup (video camera inside vehicle + USB Microphone underhood), and we got another clear recording of the engine knock (multiple occurances). He is now comfortable with the problem and is working with Mazda engineering for a solution. He is going to coordinate a trip back to my house with a Mazda engineer to try resolve the issue with my vehicle.
As for the problem, here is a preliminary diagnosis for those that think they may have experienced similar problems:
Turns out the CX-9 has a knock sensor, which is not uncommon in modern engines. However, and based on my understanding, the knock sensor in the CX-9 doesn't activate until the engine is warm. So there is potentially an operation window by which the CX-9 runs without the benefit of a knock sensor controlling the engine knock (window of time being from the moment the vehicle is started until the time the thermostat opens and the operating temperature is reached, denoted by a reading halfway between the C and H on your temperature gage).
If your engine has the same problem as mine and driving on level terrain while the engine is cold, you probably won't notice a problem; however, when the engine is under load, like when going up a hill (can even be a relatively slight hill) and if the engine is cold and has the same problem as mine, there is an opporutnity to hear engine knock. In my case, since my engine is cold when going up a sustained hill, the engine knocks substantially (listen to the recording on my original post above). Once the engine is warm (i.e. turning around and driving up the same hill again once the thermostat is open), the noise is less noticeable as the knock sensor is activated and trying to do its job to reduce engine knock.
As for the second observed failure mechanism (i.e. the brief engine knock noticed when cresting small hills, regardless if warm or not), that could be by design. For better engine efficiency and more power, some vehicles are designed to operate near the detonation limit (limit at which engine knock occurs). Only Mazda knows how much they pushed that limit for the CX-9. If the engine is warm, and in the case of my CX-9, this results in periodic knock throughout any routine drive when under load as the knock sensor kicks in and adjusts (retards) the spark timing slightly to supress / eliminate the engine knock. I found this very surprising. The USB microphone really tells the tale, as there were multilple instances the microphone picked up on engine knock that lasted about a second or two well after the vehicle was warm, just to have the knock go away due to the function / operation of the knock sensor. Again, I was surprised how often the USB microphone picked up on the knock after the engine was warm -- many more instances than I could hear / detect when inside the vehicle driving; however, I was able to detect a few of them, as supported by my verbal acknowledgement of the engine knock recorded on film while driving the vehicle, which coordinated very well with the clear instances of engine knock recorded by the USB microphone. Naturally all of these instances occured when the vehicle was under load.
The problem with engine knock is that it represents abnormal combustion, which can lead to problems ranging from loss of power to a reduction in engine life. For those that are interested, I thought this article explained engine knock and knock sensors fairly well:
http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/PICS/...etonation.html
That is the latest. I will keep everyone updated on my progress.
If knocking is indeed the issue, you can try octane 91 for one tank, and see what will happen. If it goes away or improves dramatically, then knocking can be confirmed. Then comes the question: how come other people don't have it (like me)? I get on highway within 1 mile from my house. Hard acceleration is needed to get on it and the merging is short (i.e. get to 65mph pronto!).
You have may a bad knock sensor in one of the cylinders (or more).
Keep us posted. Thanks.
1/8/09
these were all problems that had many visits to the dealership...........
drivers seat adjusts by itself while driving,
turn off the car the internal fan comes on full blast for 6-7 minutes no matter what time of year it is ....killed my battery twice
loud clicking noise with brakes,
knocking noise front end all of the time
turn off the car the drivers side window goes down
cd player needed to be replaced (2 days after delivery)
front rotors had to be replaced 3 months after delivery
I am not making this up, I guess I got the one that was abused at the assembly line. Hanging on to it until the winter, then I will sell it or trade it for something else. Its a shame, cause I know Mazda make very reliable vehicles, my brother has one and has no problems...... oh well
If I were you I would find another more capable dealer or call Mazda directly.
A spuradic short could cause all kinds of strange problem in the system. :mad:
Very likely than not, it could be one of those port-installed accessories:
auto-dimming mirror, sat radio, iPod interface, remote start, etc. One that relates
to wiring but not installed at Mazda factory. (Actually at port of entry - LA for west coast)
Mine has 17,000 miles on it. Only 1 problem with window refused to roll down (styrofoam got loose inside - easy fix at oil change). Mine was probably made on Monday when the worker was still drunk from Japanese sake. Just kidding.
Any suggestions??
I could use the sake' myself
What I started doing was simply turn off the AC a minute or so before I would shut off the car and just blast the air on High, just to remove the cold air from the vents and minimize the chances of having condensation (leave the windows down, or else you might get condensation inside the cabin). Never had a real issue after that. I also notice that our CX-9 was starting to smell musty like your with the AC, and started doing my old routine and we haven't had an issue yet.
You could argue that it would be better to blast hot air after shutting off the AC in order to really dry out the system, but that's a form of torture if you're sitting in the car on a hot summer day!
My lease is up next year and I was hoping to purchase it thereafter, but I think I too will be trading it in. I don't know where else to look for a reliable 7 seater. I know Toyota just came out with there's, but I'm sure it is big $$$$.
Perhaps not as much but it does happen! My understanding is that satellite reception problems are fairly common and are caused by several factors including variable quality of antennas and receiving equipment, local repeater stations, signal quality and so on.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
the windshield haze does not seem to go.
Used to my toyota...just putting full a/c on windshield removes the haze.
But not working in cx9...any suggestions ?
Thanks!
just came home and had all the windows and moonroof open for breeze (2115 CT approx)...it's a wonderful 80 deg F here in Dallas (FINALLY!) so was taking advantage of it while we can!
had the A/C off, recirc off, to pull fresh/cool air in to the cabin and it was great...BUT, in th rear it was blowing at least 10 degrees hotter than the front vents. Turned the front control (and rear) all the way down as far as they'd go...was reading a setting of 60 deg for the system setting...the air coming in the front vents felt like the outside air BUT, the rear still felt warm...still at least mid 70s if not warmer...if set the system for rear control, it got even hotten...shut off the rear control, and it was cooler but nowhere near what we were feeling in the front.
ideas? suggestions? TIA...Dave
We live in Colorado (not always cooler but lower humidity). We notice that the front vents (with a/c and heat off and temps down to 60) blow air that is never as cool as the outside air. The rear vent system blows air that is slightly warmer than the front vents. We just assumed that the rear vent was not really designed to vent air from outside, but to assist cooling the rear by a/c or heat the rear with active heat ( both of which it does very well).
We don't know for sure but have guessed or assumed that Mazda's design is flawed. The front vents are probably influenced by the heat from the engine and the rear vent has an additional distance to transmit the air; therefore, allowing it to warm even more. We have learned to live with it. It does help a lot to open the roof. But we run the a/c almost all the time. If your rear vent does not cool with a/c then there is a problem. Our grandchildren frequently turn the rear off when I run the a/c because it is too cold for them.
We have owned many vehicles and never noticed a problem with the outside air until the CX9.
I assume that you're talking about the lower one. I don't know what you meant by "broken", but mine (supposedly not "broken") is merely hooked on to the round head on the door so that it holds on to it. It is quite loose (wiggling) but it does the job it is supposed to. There is no "damping effect" as far as I can feel.
Anyway, if indeed it was broken, the dealer would know if there is a separate part number for the linkage arm. If not, you will need to buy the entire ensemble. That would cost you $$$.
http://www.carspace.com/ceric/Albums/2008%20Mazda%20CX9/011.JPG/page/photo.html#- pic
My previous 06 Mazda5 had the same noise and was fixed via a very well known TSB for Mazda5's about the noise in the fromt or rear suspension. The culprit was the sway bar bushings. Mine were replaced and I never hear another noise out of them. I wonder if the same applies here to our CX9's??? If that is the case, is Mazda contracting the same vendor to make its sway bar bushings for its entire line-up???
Any help?
If the rotors needs resurfacing, the problem will show on any road surface, not just down hills. It could also be the tires getting bold. The OE tires (if still on your CX9 - Dueller H/L 400) are so-so tires (to put it mildly). It has wear index of 260, which means it lasts about 26K miles in my book.
The bottom line is
- check the tires if the problem only happens on down hills
- check the rotors (need resurfacing - so-called warped rotors, a misleading term)
if the problem shows on any surfaces.
Any help on this issue???
Thanks
Hand-brake would have been better/easier, but most SUV/CUV don't use hand-brake (occupy center console space)
My 2007 CX-9 2WD Touring makes a crunch/squeek noise that seems to come from front suspension area. It seems to make it only when traveling at slow speeds over speed bumps and going in and out of driveways. The noise may be there all the time but it is only noticable when driving slow under the circumstances mentioned. My 2006 Mazda5 had this similar noise and Mazda had a TSB for sway bar bushings which remedied the problem, but I cannot find any TSB relating to this concern on my CX-9.
Does anyone know what the problem is or the solution to it? Is anyone else experiencing this noise/sound?
I lubricated every seat bolt in the back of the car yesterday and finally narrowed it down to somewhere below where the sub-woofer sits in the trunk. When I bang on the cargo mat above the speaker, I heard the squeek!
Ceric, do you have the instructions for removing the plastic cover over the sub-woofer?
The mechanic told me "its the car trying to (auto cool) itself" ....note to mechanic there is no such feature on this vehicle...and if it did why do it when its 31 degrees outside ?
I could go on and on, but I am not here to badmouth mazda.... I just wanted the things fixed... :-( (C)ar (X)perimental 9
I guess we will continue in the search for the mysterious squeek/crunch noise resolution, but to help you out on your blower fans coming on after turning off your vehicle here is what I posted on the ventilation forum:
"My CX9 is out of warranty so I asked my buddy that works at Riverside Mazda to hook me up with a copy of TSB 07-008/09. I read through it and was very simple and straight forward. I bought the relay that the TSB said to replace (part# G115-67-730) replaced it (under hood relay box closest to the driver's side fender) and up to right now no more occurences"
There are three fuse/relay boxes under the hood. 1) small slim one on the very front attached by the radiator. 2) Main fuse box on driver's side (the biggest of the three). and 3) Relay box right next to the main fuse box closest to the driver's side fender.
Relay box #3 is where the two relays for the front and rear blowers are. They are the biggest realys in there and they are probably black in color. Both relays are the same number, so be sure to buy 2 of the part number I provided and replace them both. The new relay should be a light blue color. Hope this helps you.
Now lets get back to trying to figure out our suspension noise...Ceric? Mazdatechie?
HELP!