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A few other thoughts: (1) Thus far, has the same auto glass installation company (maybe one preferred more by your insurance company rather than your Toyota dealer?) installed every one of your replacement windshields which seem to keep cracking? If so, you may want to find another installer. (2) Have all four of these windshields developed cracks at or very near the same location on the windshield? If so, I wonder if some aspect of the vehicle's windshield framework might be warped, out of kilter, out of correct shape, etc. Alternatively, maybe some aspect of the vehicle's upper or lower framework is misaligned, resulting in abnormal and deleterious forces on the windshield such as unusual flexing, torsion (twisting), overtautness, or buckling/bind-up forces on the windshield glass as the truck's body flexes during normal road stresses? While automotive glass is flexible within certain parameters, if the windshield is unduly flexed and overly taut at the time of installation, it may poorly tolerate even modest impacts from road debris, and may develop cracks rather easily. (3) Are you subjecting your windshields to unusual thermal stresses, such as rapid warming or cooling in the face of widely opposing outside temperatures?
Ever since the end of cheap gasoline prices in the late 1970's, most auto manufacturers have been faced with the need to make their vehicles more fuel efficient, and one sure remedy has been to reduce overall vehicle weight, including the weight of automotive glass. In addition, there has been widespread industry pressure to make automotive glass safer, less hard, and less dangerous to occupants in collisions. This in turn has led to the widespread use of automotive glass that is lighter, thinner, weaker, "softer", and more breakable without producing potentially harmful or even deadly shards of broken glass. This newer automotive glass is much more friable and more easily pitted and cracked compared with older automotive glass. Unfortunately, it is more vulnerable to the damages of time and road hazards. For some time now, it's not uncommon for a newer vehicle to require periodic replacement of the windshield at a considerable cost.
.....in case you're still hearing the rattling, I had a similar issue with my 2005 4runner. However, the noise would only occur at higher speeds. It appeared to be coming from the drivers door, but I discovered it was a loose luggage rack fastener. I tightened it up, and the problem was solved.
Thanks
Fueleconomy.gov has some more tips.
Oh, and your transmission probably is like most new ones and adapts to your driving style. If it was demo'd by leadfoots, you may want to ask the dealer how to reset it to relearn your style (probably resets by removing the battery cable, but that may kill your radio, so make sure you have the code if required).
Steve, Host
Polartoy
Tangman
I bought my third Toyota 4Runner, one year ago this month. I payed $32,000.00 (plus tax) for a SR5 with DVD player, then added PIAA headlights, Vent shades on all windows, Window etching of VIN # on all windows, and adding window tint on the front 2 windows. The vehicle is outstandingly clean. There are 12,500 miles on it. I went to trade it in on a Toyota Prius in Toyota of Cherry Hill, NJ, they wanted to give me only $21,600, with an explanation that Convertibles are what people want, not 4WD vehicles, this is driving the value down. Then I want to 4 other dealers in the Metro New York area today, and found out that dealers use the Galves blue book, and a 2004 4Runner is only valued at $22,000.00 plus $900.00 for a DVD player, all the other things on the 4Runner do not matter and are worth nothing!.
So, if you own a newer Toyota 4Runner, it may be worth a lot less today, than you may think. As well as over the next 3 months the price may fall $1000.00 per quarter. Expected to be around $18,000.00 by September.
Good luck to all,
Thanks.
Richard in Atlanta
Just bought new 2005 4Runner Sport with basic audio about 3 weeks ago. Dealer never mentioned this feature and did not give any security codes. I just remembered when I bought Honda CR-V last year for my wife they gave me one. So questions: did anyone receive security code for the basic 4Runner radio/cd/cassette head unit when purchasing the car? Does it have one? Should I be worried disconnecting the battery?
Thanks a lot.
i can not get any more than 14 in the city that too driving like a grand mother and the car rolling along..if i hit the gas just like 4 or 5 times during the tank ful...i get about 12.5..
Using only premium..i got free gas slips so...its on teh dealer....
Check this out though...the tank is 23 gallons right...I filled 23.4 gallons just the other day...58$ NOt Fun when ill pay my self
any help is appreciated.
Thanks
23.5 gal.
gas mileage is more normal now...14-15mpg in the city...i am kind of a lead foot. 21 yrs old...kinda hard to stay off the gas esp with the v8...:)
Thank you guys though....Btw if some one wants to install an after market system.. talk to me..i ran into sum problems
For a V8, I think you are getting good mileage. Those EPA estimates are just that. I suspect their estimates are from continous driving with no stopping. There are other varibles to consider too. If someone else drove your vehicle, the mileage most likely would be differant. I notice on my 2004 V6, that the mileage increased as the weather got warmer by about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 miles per gallon. Now I am getting 14 miles per gallon with a combination of city and highway driving. Most of my driving is of short duration that takes only on average about 10 to 20 minutes to arrive. I feel confident that I would get 17 or more mpg if it was all highway driving at longer distances. Bob.
afaik, EPA _calculates_ the MPG, not throu driving.
Has anyone tried the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo yet? If so, how do you like them.
Also, has anyone stepped up to a 265/70R17? I have the V6 and I'm a little reluctant to decrease the final drive ratio, but I might just have to do so to get a decent selection of tires. If you've done this, did you notice much of a drop in acceleration?
I don't know if this problem is already fixed or not. I'm a master tech (independent),and I have fixed this problem on few Toyotas- the dealer failed on it. The problem is the TPS (throttle position sensor) .There is a glitch on the variable resistor inside the sensor. Will not set the CEL (check engine light) and it can be detected only with a labscope -the dealer must have one- it must be set on a slow time, and the throttle must be fully open and close to see the glitch on the scope. CAN'T be detected with voltmeter. An average signal is : about 0.5 volt with closed throttle and about 4.5 volts with WOT (wide open throttle) What happens is, during the opening the signal voltage drops to 0 for few milisecond, that what makes the ECM nuts. The test wont take more than 20 minutes, however I like to test it when it's cold and warm. I don't usually run the engine but warm up the sensor with a heat gun or a good hair dryer. I hope this will help.
Good luck!
Zee
I am sure glad someone else is having this question. My display (HUD) or is it head down, says I am getting 21.7 mpg!!. My log book says, depending on trip, is 13.99 to 18.3.
The 13.9 is city driving, including freeways if that is what you want to call them, and the 18.3 was a trip to Seattle WA from the San Francisco bay area. The car 4-runner sport edition (V8) was at 1500 miles, so the speed was kept under 70.
Anyway I have 2 other vehicles to drive, so don't drive it that much, as I have only 8,500 miles total on it. Purchased 2/15/04
Still and all what is wrong with the display?.
I have the 04 sport V-8 model. I asked myself the same qurestion. All the old aftermarket books do not come into the 20th century. Dealer books go for a "hun"
and more. Vol 2 is the edition, according to my dealer, for the shadetree mechanic. The manual that came with my 04 tells me a lot of " changing various lamps, but nothing of oil changes, and where the filtter and plug are located.
On the V-8 I had to remove the skidplate to get to the filter, and a plastic plate further back for the oilplug. Oil plug is tougfh to get to, and drain the oil. You will need a small diameter filer to squeeze up to capture the oil. By the way, I am not sure if you can use a larger capacity filter. That was what prompted me to get under the vehicle. Besides when all was said and done, the cost of the filter at the dealer was the same as my cost elsewhere. Nuts cant save a nickle nowadays.
Fram has a gadget to replace the oil plug, and a screw on brass gadget to a 3-5 inch hose to drain in to a pan. My size is #3 for the V-8. Look ast the automotive stores to get a clearer picture. I don't plan to change again myself for a acouple of years. My dealer say he will do it instead.
As for the computer mileage display, mine is optimistic by several MPG. That was true of my previous car, a 2000 VW GTI, as well.
First the switch next to the steering with the X in the middle whats that for?...
Secondly..everytime like i go up some thing a curb or on a hill...the car first makes this KRRRRR sound like some metal grinding together...seems like its comming from the area where the race and brake pedals are??? any idea?
Thirdle i backed up down an incline and the damn muffler fell of its clip...went to the toyota dealer...YOU wont beleive what the guy said..Firstly he said...that you should off road in that its more like a 4 wheel drive grocery getter...then he says if some one rests their foot on this it would fall off the clip...so bring it in on monday..
Basically im posting to say be carefull with inclines..and please please tell me what the switch is...and what the metal clunking is ???
Thanks
center differential lock. don't engage it under normal driving conditions.
when on, it locks the front and rear axle so they spin at the same rate.
tihs may cause binding etc on roads with good traction.
EPA mileage tests (pdf file) are done on a dynamometer supposedly taking into account "real world driving conditions."
tidester, host
I have the Bridgestone 265/65/R17's. Had the 4Runner on the highway for the first time this weekend. I was surprised to find the 2005 V8 engine running at 3000 rpms at 70 mph. Can you confirm that this is normal for the 2005 V8 engine from your experience?
Thanks,
GBL
I did notice that the Revos in 265/70R17 are less expensive than the 265/65R17. I wish Toyota had picked a more common size. After the vehicle gets a little older and I start using in mainly for backcountry skiing and climbing approaches, I'll definately step up in size and get the BF Goodriches or something similar.
Thanks,
GBL
BTW, don't listen to your dealer... I've offroaded in this thing many times. Works fine for me. If it was just a grocery getter, it wouldn't be a ladder frame.
There are so many grocery getters that are available that it discusts me to see that serious truck lovers have little option anymore. I have an '03 sport and I'm so happy that I got it before the painted fenders and the stupid hack they call a third row seat. Get an explorer or a pilot if you want a third row. Sorry for the rant.