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Comments
-mike
-Nissan sucks
-Rob
Most likely you had an incompetant dealer who couldn't track your problem down. But don't lump all Nissans together my friend.
Too bad it didn't work out for you, but show me another SUV with 9000lbs towing capacity, there are none except a 2500 series Suburban and if you think Nissan is a Joke, try a GM on for size.
-mike
I know that there is an issue with the brakes, what I want to know is if they extend the warranty? I have an 2004 'mada that needs a new pair of rotors. thanks
I had my brake upgrade done several of them (there are various different ones they came out with) and after the last one, my dealer was able to cut the rotors once, after that I'm on my own for rotor turning/replacement.
-mike
Brake systems are fairly simple systems, and I'd be interested in what was the final result or cause of the "complete" failure.
Simply coming on here and stating things like that are not useful in any way to a solution if someone is having a similar problem.
I guess I should go play the lottery as mine stops w/o issue since having the last brake-update done on it, and I don't drive lightly, I've done several 100mph+ stops down to 40mph, stopped an un-braked 6000lb trailer, and routinely heat up my brakes in NYC traffic.
So do please tell us the details of your problem and what the cause was.
-mike
Yes it is helpfull. I told people to email me if they are having the dreaded 2004 brake failure issue and perhaps I could help them.
They could not find the cause and could not fix the issue. Nissan flew experts in and nobody could figure it out.
Dont get me wrong your Armada sound like all is well. I wish I had one like yours, so do tons of other people. Good luck with it.
I wish nobody have the same issues I did. Somebody will get hurt.
God Bless
There isn't much else that could cause a problem like that, I also find it very hard to believe that there would be NO BRAKES, they aren't brake-by-wire.
Seems odd to me, something isn't straight on this story, sorry I don't buy the brakes completely failed. That's not how brake systems are setup.
-mike
Would you mind sharing what steps you took to get your refund? I won't let my daughter ride in my parent's Armada because I'm concerned about the brake will give out again. Obviously the ideal situation would be for my parents to get a new car. I'd appreciate and insight you can share.
Thanks.
Brake Problems
I think there is some facts missing from these stories that we (or even those posting) are unaware of.
-mike
05+ have not reported any issues.
-mike
-mike
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o183/turbo_talon08/Armada.jpg
A friend of mine, who ownes hummer-1(real military I guess), drove mine in the mountains north of LA, off interstate 5, and after an hour he offered me to pay complete price I paid for my truck(I bought it used, 2006) and also purchase my tickets back to TX
He was really impressed how Armada 4x4 LE handled the off-road anywhere he took to. He is a really off-road guy, so I trust him and now I trust my truck as well for off-roading.
-haro
-mike
I agree, there was lots of mud under the running boards, and because it is not flat under, it took me lots of time just to wash under the running boards.
Why should I take air-dam off? Is it easy, how?
Thanks,
-haro
The 1 time I did some serious offroading with my Armada I was rubbing the running boards and air dam over boulders and rocks the whole way. Luckily I didn't damage them too badly but next time I'll unbolt them before doing any offroading.
-mike
But there is an issue that I need to bring to all Armada owners that are not aware of it and that could cause a fire in the cabin of the vehicle.
problem: The glove compartment was constructed with no light switch to turn the light bulb off at night. The light is hardwired and turns on when the head lights are turned on. I recently took a night trip out of town and noticed that the glove light stayed on throughout my trip. My wife checked the glove compartment temperture and found it to be very hot and had to remove all of the contents inorder to prevent a fire.
I have called Nissan and complained and asked them to recall and install a switch and they have declined. This problem involves all 2004-2007 Nissan Armadas and is an engineering oversight.
This is a serious problem and most owners and dealers are unaware of this issue that could cause the contents in their glove compartment to catch on fire. If you are an owner are know someone that is, contact Nissan and a Nissan dealer about this problem as soon as possible.
I nor any of the dealers nor anyoneelse that I have spoken to about this problem, have ever herd of a car that had no glove compartment turn off switch. Strange Problem, don't you think!
-mike
glove-box. And so I thought something I did wrong while replacing air filters. After that I tried to figure-out what went wrong, but I could not find any switch. I also several times checked the temperature and touched actually the bulb, including sometime on very long trip, and to me it was not hot at all, so I thought it is OK.
-haro
Cheryl
Here is a brief synopsys of the systems. What you were experiencing if you were doing this on "dry" pavement was driveline bind and it's completely normal if you had it in 4-hi or 4-lo.
2wd- Great for dry pavement, and gas savings. This mode can be activated in any conditions (wet, slippery, dirt road, snow, etc)
Auto- This is the AWD mode, great for use in rain, snow, or any conditions that might throw a slippery condition at you but also includes dry roads. I use this during "spirited" dry driving, all rain situations, and snow situations. It will shift the torque Front to Back up to 50/50 split with it normally applyinga about 20/80 split.
4-Hi- For use only in Snowy/Muddy/Off-road situations where the wheels will not have traction. This mode locks the front/rear torque split at 50/50 and thus on dry pavement can cause damage to the system when turning as it tries to turn all the wheels at the same speed, but on dry pavement turning the front wheels will want to turn faster than the rears when you enter the turn, and you will get binding, which is what you were experiencing. I use this mode when offroading, or in snowy conditions where I have to get through deep snow.
4-Lo - Same as 4-hi, except that it effectively doubles your torque at any given engine RPM which means that the wheels will turn slower (about 1/2 as fast) for any given RPM than in 4-hi, this gives you power to break through let's say a snow-bank created by a snow plow or in extremely deep snow. In this mode VDC is turned off and you can effectively spin your wheels out of deep snow or mud. I rarely use this mode execpt offroading and on steep boat ramps pulling the boat out of the water where I need the extra power to pull it out of the water.
I hope this helps!
-Mike
Thanks for a very clear breakdown of the transmission system. I have an '06 Armada and am out here in the middle east..lots of desert to play in. I've been here a year and only just last week managed to get out and 'play'. Before here, I was in Dubai for 5 years so have had quite a lot of experience in the dunes...and actually rarley got stuck. I had a Pajero which had a rear differential lock..helped a lot. OK that's the background...now the question.
In the desert I usually have the Armada in Auto, but something you said in your note may explain an observation I had a couple of times. When pulling away in relatively soft sand, the rear wheels would tend to dig in, and I'd almost get stuck. From your note, I'm now attributing this to the 20:80 split of torque to the back wheels when in 'auto'. Correct? If so, I should drive in 4 Hi/Lo to get the 50:50 split and prevent the digging in.
I also got the chance to implement the suggestion of another 'poster' who told me to switch off the VDC that caused a grinding noise everytime I put a bit of stress on the front drive train when in the sand. Turned it off..grinding gone completely.
That's it. Again, thanks for the clear breakdown, and I look forward to hearing from you.
Regards,
Pete Delaney (Doha, Qatar)
Got any jobs over there for me? I'm looking to bail on the Wall-street Comodity trading job and head back to Computer Support...
-mike
1. window rattles when half way down
2. all door panel squeak as well as the dash board
3. banging noise when putting in gear
4. past month chech engine light has been coming on vehicle runs rough , dealers cant fit
5. paint is pealing off
6. service manager dont return my call
7. nissan n/a dont even want to hear it ,
8. nav computer is lost half of the time
9. when you you go over bums feels front end is loose and feels like is going to drop.
10. brake problems , been replaced ones and tern 2 times.
11. nave screen panel rattleling/ fix was to drill 2 washers and re install on holding screews .
over all the truck sucks, the dealers suck , nissan na suck , well you get my point ,
I almost bought an bmw x5, the only reason i bought the armada. is that it was bigger that x5, now i kick my self in the [non-permissible content removed]
bmw has a better warranty, bumper to bumper for 4 years 50,000 miles. istead of geting the 545, get the 530, you dont need the v8 , good luck in getting the vehicle
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
-mike
DOug
On the Armada, "4-Hi" is a part-time 4WD mode, meant for slippery surfaces—only! On dry pavement, in tight turns you will get that "crow-hopping" that you experienced. That's normal, and that's why it's a "part-time 4WD" mode.
I would leave it in the "Auto" mode, as that will (automatically) kick in and out of 4WD as needed. Think of it as sort of a full-time 4WD, in that you can leave it in "Auto" year-round. You may use a bit more gas, but you won't risk damaging the vehicle.
Bob
I'm hoping that since the first year Nissan has worked the bugs out.
Nissan said dealer had instaled some of the old design parts. Tall to the technician. He said BS. :lemon:
-mike
I didn't know if it was just me being hyper-sensitive, but I was curious to hear if this is common to Armadas, or Nissans in general.