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engine serial numbers

broakie56broakie56 Member Posts: 2
edited March 2014 in Ford
Can someone tell me where I can locate the engine serial number on a 1967 Ford 289? Thanx

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    On a brass tag attached to the ignition coil. If the tag is missing, there is no really sure way to identify a Ford engine of that era. You can get date codes and some casting numbers but not a serial #. So without the brass tag + the build sheet, you can never establish a matching # car on a Ford of that type. But you can probably ascertain that it's the correct year of motor at least, by a lot of digging. Ford engines are a nightmare for collectors in this regard.
  • broakie56broakie56 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks a lot!!! Was driving myself crazy looking for this on the block everywhere to no avail. Thanks for shedding light on this for me.......your time and help is VERY MUCH APPRECIAYED
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think some Mustang guru can figure this out, and perhaps tell you more than you ever wanted to know about cryptic Ford numbers stamped in odd places--much more than I can--but as for basic engine ID, the brass tag is all you got back then.

    You can easily identify the engine as a 289 vs. a 302 by looking at the casting numbers at the rear of the right cylinder bank. But guessing the exact year of the engine, that takes some research and reading. And mating it to the exact car you have----well good luck.
  • mr2fanmr2fan Member Posts: 2
    We have a recently bought Toyota 4AGE engine, supposedly low mileage from Japan. We have the serial number. Is there a way to look up when and where it was built?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Scroll down in this website to:

    ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
  • mr2fanmr2fan Member Posts: 2
    Thanks! This is great information and also gives us a lot of links to more good stuff. However, the chart you mention, while very useful, does not actually address specific serial numbers, i.e., when was our actual engine built? With this unique number, is there a record of when and where built? If you have any other suggestions, I would appreciate hearing them. Also, I would like to say thanks for your AMAZINGLY quick answer. I saw a similar question at another site--posted in May 2007 and still not answered!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if you read carefully (in a place I didn't direct you to) it tells you how to get a date off the inside of the cam cover---and of course, one can assume that the cam over and engine block were created more or less within a few weeks of each other.
  • forrestl2forrestl2 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at a GM motor, 350 most likely and the numbers on the upper right side of the bell housing is 1024388c or 0 for the last digit. Is that enough info to find out what car it was in or what kind of car it was in?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Another message board says:

    "10243880, 350CID, 95-00, 4B Main, Gen.I crate motor, roller cam, one piece rear seal, 330HP"

    ZZ4 engine -- this is a crate motor sold by General Motors, so it was never installed in a car at the factory.
  • papasam1papasam1 Member Posts: 84
    You correct on where to fine the engine ID, on the 289 it will say 289 in the intake valley and if it is a 67 it will read C7OE and the first 302 was put out in the end of 1967 in the late production and 1968 on will read C80E, C9=1969, D0 0E=1970, D is for the 70's,E for the 80's
  • ihtruckguyihtruckguy Member Posts: 2
    My brother-in-law recently purchsed a ground up restored '55 2DR Belair, with a crate 350 under the lid. He did not receive any info on the restoration and has asked me to inquire about the engine. Serial numbers are: B0803UTK-2316366K.
    Any help would be appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    probably late 70s, early 80s engine. Do you have a casting #?
  • ihtruckguyihtruckguy Member Posts: 2
    I do not but I will be seeing him this week and I will get that. Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    that would help. I can't find any cross-reference to the other numbers--close but nothing with that 3-letter suffix. Maybe he copied it down wrong?

    Anyway, casting numbers are quite large, at back of engine, driver's side, just where block meets the bell housing. You may have to get a flashlight and lay down on the fender.
  • obi3iceobi3ice Member Posts: 16
  • obi3iceobi3ice Member Posts: 16
    Hi can someone please tell me where i can locate the engine serial number for a 2003 honda accord.
    I know it's embedded somewhere in the engine but where, and how many letters/digits
    It's urgent.
    Thanks
    TL
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It would help if you told people whether it was a 4 or 6 cylinder. Not sure about the 6 cylinders, but on the 4 cylinders, if I'm remembering correctly, it's stamped on a little pad where the engine meets the transmission.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    4 cylinder hondas usually have a tag near the timing belt cover too.
  • dlwinndlwinn Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1950 Chevy 3100 Thriftmaster 1/2 ton, which is supposed to have a 216. I looked at the Old Car Manual Project web site - http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/models/engine.htm

    but couldn't identify the engine serial number. The engine I have has a serial number next to the distributor that says "DR140622CAL", which is different from the serial number layout on the above web site. Is there any other sources engine serial number searches?

    The other interesting fact, is that everyone, including the old timers, has told me that the 1950 216 has babbitt bearings, which I understand to mean that the bearings are integrated into the piston rods and crankshaft main bearings and are adjusted with shims. When I pulled one of the rod bearing caps off it had a bearing insert. One of the old timers came over and verified that the engine had insert bearings. I also under stand that the 1950 216 engine was a light blue color like the engine compartment, but the engine is orange. I'm wondering if the engine is a different year? Like I said above, I'd like to track down this engine serial number
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Go by Block Casting Numbers then:

    http://www.inliners.org/becks/BCN2.html

    There is also a 235 babbitt engine in some early heavy duty Chevy trucks. Old timers don't always know what they're talking about.

    You might also look for "235" stamped on the right side of the engine, way down low near the front, where the block meets the oil pan.
  • dlwinndlwinn Member Posts: 7
    Just went out and found the numbers, and then checked them on line;

    216 inline head casting #: 1950-53 3835517 All 216

    216 inline block casting #: 1952-53 3835849 216 Passenger, Truck

    52 AKCA. AKCM, BKCA, BKCM, KAA, KAM, KAC, KAP, KBA, KBM, KCA, KCM, KCD, KCQ 3835849

    53 ALCC. ALCP, BLCC, BLCP, LAG, LAT, LAJ, LAV, LBA, LBM, LCA, LCM, LCC, LCP, LCD, LCQ, LCH, LCU 3835849

    Makes me think it's a 52/53 engine. Where do the prefix letters come into play? Still baffled by the DR140622CAL serial number.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    I remember hearing of a few 216's being replaced by GMC 270 straight sixes.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited May 2010
    Dunno. Over the years, I've come to realize that there are all kinds of mysterious numbering quirks that are not well documented.

    Here's some info on GMC casting numbers and even some Canadian engine #s.

    http://home.znet.com/c1937/Cast.htm
  • dlwinndlwinn Member Posts: 7
    Here's a reply I received concerning the serial number, which I received from another forum where I asked this same question.

    Yes your "DR " number is a asigned ID number. Many years ago many states used both engine and chassis ID numbers on titles. So you got a GM new replacement or reman engine you had to go down to the DMV and get it inspected and the title corrected. Dad replaced the engine in our 41 Chevy in 51 and down to DMV we went. Most car makers stopped using engine IDs towards the late 50s and states started using just the chassis ID on title.

    I'm pretty well convinced that the the 50 truck has a 52/53 216 engine. When getting parts I'll probably treat it as a 52 or 53 engine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    that makes no sense. DMV is not going to stamp an engine with a new number. You said the DR number was an engine number, right?

    Yes your engine and your trucks' title could have the same VIN.

    So what did your *casting* number tell you? That's what you go by.
  • dlwinndlwinn Member Posts: 7
    It sounds like DMV maybe required new replacement engines or rebuilt engines to have different serial numbers. Not sure, buy my serial number is not a standard Chevy/GM serial number. As for the casting numbers, which make me think the engine is a 52/53 216, here's the info:

    216 inline head casting #: 1950-53 3835517 All 216

    216 inline block casting #: 1952-53 3835849 216 Passenger, Truck
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay. What I meant was, what is YOUR engine's casting #?

    No, DMV doesn't mess with engine serial numbers. If you truck had a VIN # on the title that was the same as the engine number (this often happened back then, even though your truck has a perfectly good chassis # which SHOULD be on the title), and then if you changed the engine, your truck would still carry the old engine # on the title.

    If your truck has a CHASSIS # on a plate somewhere, I would make THAT the VIN on the title.

    As for which engine you have, that's important for ordering parts, as you say, but you don't necessarily have to know the YEAR of the engine, just the type.

    If you have a 216, then you don't have insert bearings. One tip off is if you drop the pan, you'll see little "dippers" attached to the crankshaft to splash oil on the bearings.

    It's a very primitive engine and if you are ambitious, it would be nice to put a 235 in there someday.
  • dlwinndlwinn Member Posts: 7
    The previous post to your reply has the casting numbers I found, which are for 1952/53 engines (if my search was correct). I also noticed that above the block casting it say "GM 3". On another forum someone said there should be a cast date somewhere on the right side of the block. I wonder if the GM 3 is the year? As for the vehicle serial number (VIN), the tag in the door frame says "20HPC3181", but the engine says "DR140622CAL". Very frustrating trying to figure exactly what engine I have.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not clear here. The engine can't have two casting numbers. Which casting number is stamped on your engine?

    The chassis number is correct. This is a 1950 3100 series built in Van Nuys California in March 1950, and unless changes, the engine would be a 216 of course.
  • dlwinndlwinn Member Posts: 7
    Sorry if I'm confusing things. The casting numbers I found are:

    head casting #: 3835517 (Research says this is for 1950-53 All 216)

    block casting #: 1952-53 3835849 (Research says this is for 1952-1953 216 Passenger, Truck)

    My friend, that was a fleet mechanic for the railroad (long, long ago), says my egine definitely has insert bearings, not babbitt. Maybe I should pull the rod bearing and post a picture.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you could buy a bearing insert back then that worked in the babbitt rod, if you modified it somewhat.

    So okay, you have a 216 with modified bearing inserts and rods. I still think, if you are going to keep and restore this truck, that putting in a 235 would be a good idea.
  • dlwinndlwinn Member Posts: 7
    I would seriously consider a 235, and probably would have gone that route if I'd had know better, but we already invested in a complete rebuild of the 216 head. So for now I'll probably fix up the 216 (have a few other issues to deal with on it) and then look at swapping it out if it ever dies. The truck has been in my wife's family since purchased, so I was trying to keep it stock for senimental reasons. Thanks for all the input.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited May 2010
    The 216 is fine as long as you don't try to run it on a freeway. It's perfectly suited to putting around town or on the farm.
This discussion has been closed.