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I've also had more than a few times where the car just will not start, no lights on the panel, no indicator bell from the key being in the ignition, nothing, after a few times from trying, the panel will slowly light up, the indicator bell will ding the clock flashes 12:00 and it starts.
Below are a list of forum I've read as to other Jeep owners having the same issue
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2008/03/nhtsa_jeep.html
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2008/10/jeep_stalls.html
http://www.lemonauto.com/complaints/daimler_chrysler/jeep_grand_cherokee.htm
http://www.safetyforum.com/cgi-bin/cginews.pl?search=chrysler&method=Exact&field- =all
http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7811_102-0.html?threadID=311804
http://forums.overthehillcarpeople.com/viewtopic.php?t=2999&sid=7dbeabe84d05ec0c- 19de5c08a8c922e9
Now the 2003 Grand Cherokee is another story- cut out on highway and had no power no anything.. zero crank.. towed it home - still zero crank.. turn the key gauges come on and...nothing... zero crank... hooked up a tester to flash the computer has zero readings... 3 shops have told me they have no clue what it is..
I found a lot of other forums that state its the PCM telling the ASD to shut off due to the PCM having weak wire connections or just going bad..???
Does any agree- should I just buy a new PCM... Last Jeep I will buy just cant deal with the headaches between the window motors/heating act switched power sterring lines that end up being a re-configured pump and line ($400+)... i done
No, I lose total power.
2) When your Jeep "dies" while driving, does it stall for a matter of seconds and then start going again, or is it finish and you have to get it towed?
It stalls for a matter of 2 to 3 minutes and then starts going again.
Thanks
Again, PLEASE if anyone can help me with my post #205, I would be grateful.
dj
Thanx
Moffatt
Help!!!!!!!!!!! anyone have any ideas please email me at
leone1333@msn.com thanks
First time poster. My daughters 1997 grand cherokee's battery has been draining and will only hold a charge for about 36-48 hours. We replaced the battery 6 months ago and just had it checked out and it is good.
It's been awhile since I've got into this sort of stuff but I whipped out my trusty multimeter and did some checking. I disconnected the postive cable, connected my multimeter to the post and cable and sure enough it was reading 188 milliamps of pull. I believe about 30 milliamps is normal for the clock, etc. I then proceeded to pull each fuse one at a time and when I pulled the 50A fuse, it dropped down to near 0.
According to my fuse box legend, this fuse (position 11 in the fuse box panel) is in line for the memory functions, power window, power door locks,power mirrors, remote keyless entry and the trailer tow package which we do not have.
My daughter told me that a few months ago the power door lock would not open the passenger side door which had to be opened by the internal latch of with the key from the outside. With this said, I definately see a connection between the battery drain (related to the power locks) and the door not opening when the power door lock switch is hit.
Any ideas on where to start would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Any ideas???
funguns, "Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair" #1460, 25 Jun 2005 5:27 pm
look around the upper part of the panel should see 2 3 screews or covers bout size of dime covering heads remove screws and pry door pannel off start at the bottom
Perhaps you are having the same confusion I had. Just a guess. When I went to the owners manual for our 1997 JGC, it shows a fuse box located by the inside passenger "kick box" just below and to the right of the glove box. Nothing there!!!! When you go a couple of pages further in the manual, it shows the "power distribution center" which is the fuse box located right behind the battery toward the firewall. Not sure if that's what you mean. 3+amps is a huge draw!
Thanks again
Can anyone tell me where the neutral position sensor harness is? I need to check out an odd reverse light/blower motor malfunction on my son's 04 Grand Cherokee Laredo.
I appreciate any help.
I'm not really confused about the locations. The fuse panel is inside on the passenger side kick panel. The Power Distribution Center is under the hood. I would like to see the block diagram for the PDC. The one in the Manual must be for a different year. The part number on the cover is 56018905. Thanks for the reply, though.
I found the problem in the wiring between the drivers door and the fuse panel.
2 of the thick wires that run from the interior fuse panel to the door panel had broken. I had to split the rubber gaitor that sits in the door jam and gently pull at all of the wires one at a time and eventually 2 wires came through.
It was quite a fiddly job to reconnect but eventually used 2 small con blocks and about 6 inches of extra wire to do it........now all working OK.
I recently asked another grand cherokee owner if he had any problems of this nature and to my surprise he had THE VERY SAME problem about 6 months ago.
Suggest you look there first as this sounds very similar.
I live in England and the fuse for the power windows is 50amp J12 in the PDC under the bonnet but might not be the same on your spec.......This fuse was OK when i had my problem.
Hope this helps
Sounds like the crankcase sensor is faulty. It's a simple fix, and very common among JGC owners. Vehicle will run fine for awhile, and suddenly stall with no warning. Sometimes, the vehicle will start back up; other times, the vehicle will have great difficulty to re-start.
I actually purchased a new MOPAR crank sensor on Ebay for $19.00; had a mechanic install it for $60. Been fine for over a year.
Where is the electrical control panel/unit located? How did you come upon that resolution?
Vehicle has usually been garage kept. However, in October 2009, I left on vacation, and left the vehicle outside for two weeks. Upon my return, I found the gauges not working, all dashboard lights lit up, windows not working. Occasionally, overhead console and power locks don't work. Seems to run fine, and in driving vehicle for last three months, gauges will intermittently come on and off. FYI: When airbag light turns off, speedometer and tach come back on; no other gauges come to life.
Vehicle has been left with an electrical mechanic; in 7 days, he's found little. Diagnostics trace the issue to the instrument cluster bus, but the ICB seems to be fine; no corrosion, no bent pins, all wires appear to be fine.
I know that many of you have experienced the issue of non-functioning gauges. Has anyone found a resolution for the problem? Or...any suggestion for things to check? Any help would be appreciated.
problem.They do not fully retract. Park the car and they will retract, This is only the
front. Backs are ok. Vehicle has 103,000 miles, Stops straight line, no lights and ABS lite lights when car strarts and then goes out as it should. Changed master cyl
-did not correct problem. Power booster seems ok per book tests. The pedal gets
very hard and very little travel when this happens. Any ideas?