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thanks for your reply and checked ebay and you are right there are multiple available. My only problem is that I'm looking for a Australian version (i.e right hand drive vehicle) and there are non available as far as I can see.
Any suggestions where I can look for this item
Regards
John
I had the same problem with my 2005 JGC today. All the lights on the dashboard illuminate for about 5 seconds while driving. Then they go away. It happened about 10 times while highway driving for about 90 minutes. The engine NEVER hesitated so it seems electrical just don't know what it could be? Any ideas? Thanks, Joe
The best post on this topic that I have seen is #297: multiple loose grounds behind the dashboard.
Regards,
dj
FYI-My battery is brand new...
Regards,
dj
Good to hear. I hope that continues to work for you. The ground post issue sounds much harder to physical get access to. I haven't had any additional occurences yet, but I do not drive much.
Regards,
dj
Car seems to have a mind of its own. When the car is started, occassionally it will stall out within seconds after starting. Other times it will start right up. However, once it's running the gauges can go crazy, odometer and speedo. The Battery, gas, and oil gauges will die when other electronics are turned on such as the lights, ac, or radio. Or upon turning other things things will turn off. Also, the AC never seems to be kicking on. The lights are dim, sometimes the mileage indicator will turn off. Immobilizer light, Airbag, and other warning lights will turn on. Not sure what the problem is, but I can say the CPS sensor has been replaced, the wires running through the driver door are intact and good. I'm trying to narrow down what the problem could be and any help would be appreciated.
The problem is intermittent. Has been happening every few months for the last two years, but goes away on its own after a few weeks, leading me to believe there is an exposed wire somewhere.
Also, here is a link to a youtube video of my problem, take a look:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdlAHyg25tE
I have the same problem, but no solution. The best post I have read that makes sense to me as an electrical engineer is #297: multiple loose grounds behind the dashboard.
My JGC is '06 with 48k miles. I will sell it before I replace the BCM. These issues happen very infrequently.
dj
do i need to replace the entire lock?
thanks -
car cranks but wont start just change all the sparks wire
out of wich 3 had no continuity, we have power before the coil and
at the entrance of the distributor what should i be checking for
this is my transportation to work any help will be much appriciated
thank
Here's what I did:
Open the driver door. In between the door and the car there is a black flexible "boot" that covers the wires that connect the power windows, locks, mirror to the body of the car. Take that boot off. There are wires of every color. Look for a broken wire. Mine was the black wire, which is the ground wire. If I connect the 2 broken ends, together, the power windows, locks, mirrors work, and the dome light turns off when the door is closed.
I bought a connector, and a wire stripper. Just need to connect the 2 ends of the wire, and all should be good.
Retrieving codes:
Turn the ignition key until the digital odometer displays, repeat three times in succession and then back to "On" (On/Off, On/Off, On/Off, On). At the fourth "On" the odometer will be replaced with codes. If no codes are present then "Done" will appear.
do not turn key far enough on to start jeep, only to on position that lets odometer light.
If no check engine light, probably no code, not every malfunction will leave a code, but when my relay broke it did light light and give me code p1491 which was relay, there are codes on list for sensors, so if you have a check engine light this might help.
I have found a fix for the lights, windows and driver door problems with 1999 - 2004 Grand Cherokees.
Inside of the driver door wiring grommet, there is a large, black ground wire that tends to break due to the door being closed over and over again. Just take a piece of wire (no more than say and inch and a half) and strip the ends of the original wire as well as the new piece of wire. Solder the new wire to the existing, and then wrap it generously in electrical tape. Install the grommet back onto the white wiring harness, and close the door to make sure everything works correctly.
I also have a fix if your air does not come out of the right vents (or is stuck blowing out the defrost vents) and/or if your cruise control does not work.
I am having this same problem with my instrument cluster going on and off intermittently and even some times the ABS braking system engaging. (feels like a wheel coming off the bearings). I am now engaged in a "skirmish leading to a full battle" with the Dealership and may have to resort to the legal system to resolve this issue. It has been going on for now 1-1/2 years or repair history.
Many (expensive) components have been replaced:
some are $400-$500 each
- Ignition Power Module (IPM)
- Front Control Module (FCM)
- Shift Control Module (ShCM)
- Steering Control Module (StCM)
- Ignition Switch (2x)
- Fuse Block
The Jeep Technician reports for example:
a faulty IPM and reported faults in several Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) in multiple modules. Also performed “wiggle tests”. Intermittent loss of Start/Run signal in ignition switch.
and...
“DTC’s B2100 and B212D and “all modules concerning these codes have been replaced. Replaced three circuits from Ignition Switch to Junction Block and two circuits from TIPM to Junction Block. Replaced Ignition Switch. Road Tested.”
Each time the problem was considered road tested and fixed.. but almost every time, after taking car back on the road, it would fail with exact same symptoms, again and again. One time, not ten minutes after leaving Dealership. It took a 10 page letter (10pt single spaced) to describe the full history of this problem. Honestly, 10 pages !! :mad:
Now I am curious after reading the thread on this forum, if after between $1500-$2000 in repair fees, that it could be as simple as a bad/defective battery and low voltage. Note: Jeep headquarters Engineering Support Department has been involved in the diagnosis and troubleshooting from almost the beginning of this ordeal
I am mailing the letter to the Dealership ownership, Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep HQ and cc to attorney. I originally purchased a full factory warranty as I bought the vehicle used but paid extra to get original factory warranty. The warranty expired in the middle of all this and Dealership then shows reluctance to deal with this even though, the very same and original problem, occurs again and again and is never fixed. their argument was that each new component failure represented a ner problem and solution. were this a new purchase and less than two years old then... :lemon:
There is much more to this but trying to keep it brief.
Any thoughts/advice/ideas are appreciated
Thanks,
Architect
The intermittent coming off/on of the instrument cluster bus provides a diagnostic ode that in most cases, does not indicate what the actual problem is. For example, on my 2000 JGC, the diagnostic code indicates that the issue was with the instrument cluster bus. I had a REAL MECHANIC test some if not most of the wires and didn't find a problem. He even replaced the instrument cluster, which didn't solve the problem.
What many on these boards are finding is that corrosion forms on the contacts of the BCM. On the 2000 JGC, the BCM within the interior of the vehicle, under the dash near the glove comparment. Apparently the fix was to spray the contacts of the BCM with contact cleaner, get the contacts corrosion free, and the re-plug in the module.
Unfortunately, dealerships seem to be about more replacing expensive electronic parts, and less about finding the problem. One thing to keep in mind: when the power source (i.e. battery) is disconnected, the electronic system in the vehicle essentially resets itself (similar to a computer re-booting). Once the battery is reconnected, you'll get anywhere from a few hours up to 10 days without problems. However, as you've discovered, the instrument cluster issue ALWAYS RETURNS. Try disconnecting the battery yourself for a few hours and check the results.
When the dealership replaces one of the parts that you've listed, the first thing that they do is DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. After the expensive part has been installed, the battery is then reconnected. The electronic system is then reset and the ICB appears to be functioning normally.
As I mentioned, check/clean the contacts on the BCM. Next, you may wish to check the rubber boot that runs between the driver side door and the interior. The rubber boot protects wires; Sometimes, a wire becomes broken that may affect the ICB.
Finally, it was recommended to me after much work and investigation, to attempt to find a reputable, experienced Jeep mechanic (one that doesn't work at a dealership). Good luck.
Did you ever resolve the Electrical problem? I posted entry #346 in this thread. Seems like very same problem i am having now with my '06 Jeep G.C. Laredo.
Thanks,
Keith
ArchitectKMP
Do you know if the BCM is "easily" accessible to the average user?
thanks
ArchitectKMP
Yes, the ABS problem is the most perplexing, as it is seemingly unrelated to the problem, but it keeps occurring . There are a few BUS circuits and mine is the BUS "C" circuit. It effects the modules I originally listed. The other threads list info about headlights and other eqpt like wipers "failing safe" and turning on or flashing. But I am to understand that my symptoms do not effect headlights etc.
Note: There is a good forum called "Jeep Garage dot org" that has some interesting info.
I am off to the post office now to send my letter (10 pages) to the Dealership to ask them to fix this problem or refund the over $2000 (incl rentals) that I have spent on this [back to square one] electrical repair/nightmare.
An attorney advised to follow that plan as a matter of proper procedure in building a case. The letter also goes to Chrysler Group, L.L.C. in Auburn Hills, MI
Where is the Jeep Engineer's pride up at the factory. They should be all over this stuff to solve and try at least to uphold the name and integrity of JEEP. But I digress...
For a while anyway i could survive without the gauges but the A?C goes out too and it is not exactly cold outside these days. 105 degs now wit the Heat Index.
:shades:
thanks again,
Keith
ArchitecKMP
Update on the ongoing saga with my dash cluster malfunction...
A user suggested that Jeeps are prone to problems relating to low voltage being delivered to the electrical system. it was stated that voltages less than approx. 13.5v could be a cause of problems. So... i went to Sears where I had purchased a DieHard battery (Jeep GC requires a special (truck) battery, not a typical car battery). They tested the battery and it delivered 13.9v to 14.0v consistently.
I am still trying to solve this problem, as the dealer after 7 visits has not fixed it as considerable cost. ($1500-$2100 so far).
Another supposition is that it may be a bad connector or loose contact behind the firewall (interior) and is the BCM Body Control Module. Anyone familiar with this component? and where to locate it?
components replaced so far
* Front Control Module
* Steering Control Module
* Shift Control Module
* Ignition Power Module
* Ignition Switch (2x)
* Fuse Block
One of the symptoms, is that the problem occurs when the vehicle experiences bumps in the road or general vibration, but that it is also now happening more frequently at idle. And occasionally the ABS initiates.
Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated.
Keith
ArchitectKMP
feeling like i have a :lemon: (but know law does not apply to my Jeep)
***
Have you gotten any answers to the problem???
Have you checked/replaced your pcm. I am having similar problems and looking at several posting sites the pcm keeps coming up as a common problem. It receives and sends signals to many other modules, often resulting in misdiagnoses of other modules being bad when it is really the pcm. It appears that as the pcm ages the potting compound starts to break down and shorting can occur from the assembly screws. Some people have reported fixing the problem by replacing the 1/2" factory screws with 1/4 or 3/8" screws.
Good luck.
Doug