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Lately the shuddering has gotten worse and is happening in the 35-40 MPH range, as well as any other range where the gears are shifting. Last week, the engine light came on, it started misfiring at idle and shaking terribly bad as I drove. The engine light began flashing and I took it straight to our regular mechanic (I am steering clear of the Honda dealership - too pricey for a bunch of liars). He replaced the spark plugs which were admittedly in terrible condition (we live in the foothills and have a long, steep, wet, dirt driveway) and said to bring it back if it still wasn't working right. After revisiting this website I think I will have him drain and refill the ATM fluid and use the additive everyone here has been talking about and see how it does.
Right now I'm terrified to go anywhere. I drive to Seattle on a regular basis and am petrified to break down on I-5 during rush hour. Good thing my AAA membership is in full swing.
I also have a friend who has a 2003 Pilot and she mentioned the exact same shuddering between 35-40. Let's start the Facebook page and see if we can get Honda to admit this issue and pay to correct it. If no one else wants to start it, I will but it sounds like some of you have had extensive communication with Honda. I haven't started with them yet but I'm about to.
Thanks again to everyone who has posted. It's awful we are all dealing with this. I wonder what it will take for Honda to realize this is their problem - someone getting killed?
I ended up trading the old pilot in for a 2011 pilot EX-L, which was certified used with 6000 miles. So the power train is covered for 100,000 miles/7 years. That was at no cost, and I normally do not opt for extended warranties, but this time I did, albeit at a discounted price. So basically now the truck is under bumper to bumper warranty for the next seven years or 100,000 miles.
The new truck is ugly, but growing on me.....it sure does drive nice.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/384099154955943
JOIN the group ASAP and we'll get the ball rolling on this matter!
I added a tube of Dr. Tranny's Shudder Fix to see if that would help at all. It does seem to make the transitioning feel a little smoother but hasn't solved the rough riding problem. At this point I am going to keep driving it until it stops. I'm only at 102500 miles but I'm going to schedule the 105K tune up for next week. Maybe our (trustworthy) mechanic will be able to see if there's anything obvious that could be affecting the way it's running. I just don't know what else to do at this point. It's pretty hard to bring the car to the mechanic and tell him "it just isn't driving right" so I made sure our AAA membership is all up to date with towing and will see how it goes.
I will continue to update here as the situation progresses.
https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/384099154955943/
The "shudder" is the torque converter going bad in your Pilots. It's not: Spark plugs, differential fluid, tires, wind, etc.
Also for those that do not know the basics of transmissions, a torque converter requires complete removal of the transmission to access/remove/replace. Also know that it is quite likely that material from the "bad" torque converter has already polluted the same transmission fluid inside the actual transmission. Moral of story: You are looking at a full transmission AND torque converter replacement (parts, R&R, time).
I had a 2003 Pilot. I bought it used with 25,000 on the clock in 2004. I got rid of the disaster of a truck after the following fun fest:
Front door lock actuators no longer function (power locks that is).
Front engine mount (hydraulic) decided to lose fluid.
Leaking coolant "crossover" pipe gaskets.
Ignition/key assembly refusing to turn over at times. This is a "known" issue that has a $800 price tag in parts/labor if you let the dealer handle it (mind amazingly went away over time)
The infamous "shudder" which ultimately lead to 2nd gear being completely gone (NOTE: The "fix" that Honda rigged up to squirt more oil on that area does absoultely nothing in regards to fixing this).
Rear differential temp sensor malfunction.
Starter destroyed due to leaking coolant from aforementioned crossover pipe gasket issue.
"Luckily" I do all my own work on cars and everything short of the transmission (I refused to replace it due to the truck having 160,000 on the clock in the end) was not extremely expensive, however it was extremely time consuming.
If you want the final kick in the southern area, have fun spending over $1000.00 every 105,000 for timing belt, water pump, seals maintenance (or $400 ish if you do it yourself) because Honda hasn't figured out how to make a TIMING CHAIN based engine.
Honda reliability? Think again.
Anyway I have brought it to the dealer and 2 other mechanics and they have replaced the idle control valve twice, MAP sensor, air flow meter, cleaned the egr valve, valve adjustment, new spark plugs, transmission fluid change, new battery, new coolant and thermostat. The car has this problem intermittently.
Finally a local honda mechanic figured it out today. He says that the torque converter is bad and that it would be 1700 to fix it. I'm wondering if this will actually fix the problem. Is it better to get the whole tranny replaced or is the torque converter by itself fine.
This car does have a recall on the transmission and a oil heat shield was put in at 2200 miles. Does anyone one know if the torque converter is related to the recall problem.
Thank You!
Why do you think that Consumer Reports does not bash Honda for this transmission problem - or least they did not when I bought mine a few years ago. You would think this would be something they were all over.
...One more to the list.
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/18-maintenance/27348-diy-replacing-transmission-- pressure-switches.html
Turns out, at about 35mph, the differential is switching between locked and unlocked, hence if the viscosity isn't correct, it can't do what it needs.