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Oldsmobile Intrigue Maintenance and Repair

24

Comments

  • billcarsonbillcarson Member Posts: 23
    biglenny45 i just did this job a few weeks ago and used a post from dtownfb to guide me through it.it was the directions for cleaning the ignition switch which comes out with the cylinder so it was very useful.get to it fast by googleing (cleaning the ignition switch on a 2000 intrigue),and it will be the first listing.if you do it don't rush it and take your time removing the plastic dash assemblies carefully.they are flimsy and would be a hassle to replace.my car was in south florida for most of it's life and the pieces got stuck. the hardest part is removing the electrical connectors and the large black cable(shift lock cable),but with a little patience it will come out.also organize each removed assembly and keep it's related screws with it.(i used my picnic table).this will make reassembly easier.i had to perform the relearn procedure 3 times befofe the starter would turn over. good luck. bill
  • billcarsonbillcarson Member Posts: 23
    also very important to perform a relearn proceedure so you can start the car after the cylinder is replaced.you have a passlock system on your car and if you google (passlock relearn proceedure) you will see a pdf file (engine controls and fuel systems).read about how the system works and follow the relearn proceedure,starting on page 2 very carefully.i had to repeate the proceedure the full 3 times before it took.and by the way it disabled the starter on my car not the fuel injectors. go for it and good luck. bill
  • biglenny45biglenny45 Member Posts: 2
  • billcarsonbillcarson Member Posts: 23
    netman55 i've read of many problems on this site for alternator issues.if your mechanic was right about his readings they seem very low for a 125 amp alternator.why would he then say everything was allright?these cars have a tendency to corrode at the positive battery terminal.i've had my car for 3 months now and right off the bat i had noticed a weak battery condition.after cleaning the badly corroded terminal and recharging the battery i have no issues.i hope that that might have been checked on your car during all the testing. good luck and do the read on replacing the alternator.(you won't believe it) bill
  • netman55netman55 Member Posts: 4
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    billcarson has the right idea. Check all of your connections. Also check your ground wire connections as well.
  • golfgirlmdgolfgirlmd Member Posts: 4
    I have been getting the following lights keep appearing when I am driving. Has anyone had this issue and if so how did you fix the problem? golfgirlmd
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Could be a bad ABS sensors which is on the wheel hubs.

    What is the model year and engine in your Intrigue?
  • golfgirlmdgolfgirlmd Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Intrigue. I have the ABS sensor switch replaced a year or so ago. The other odd thing happened a few weeks ago was when I started the car up the A/C did not work, Gas gauge said I had no fuel. So, I turned off the car and restarted with no problems.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    There are four ABS wheel sensors. It's possible another one could have been damaged.

    Now that you mention the funny things at start up, you could have the beginnings of a bad ignition switch. This can cause all kinds of weird behavior like you are describing. The problem is it is often sporadic in the early stages before elevating to numerous cranks to start and stalling.

    Keep monitoring the situation. BTW, have the "Security, Trac off and Service engine soon" lights gone off.
  • golfgirlmdgolfgirlmd Member Posts: 4
  • psweeneypsweeney Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 oldsmobile intrigue, it just started have a problem when I go to start the car. Sometimes I get nothing when I turn the ignition key, no crank, but all the lights and gauges come on fine. I try several times and nothing. Then I try an hour later and it starts right up like normal. It will start 6 or 7 times in a row with no problem then nothing when I turn the key. Any ideas?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Nothing surprises me about this vehicle...

    Judging what you are describing, my first guess is a bad ignition switch. A bad ignition switch can cause very "interesting" problems including intermittent starting and stalling.

    Are you having any other driving issues? Any "check engine" lights on?
  • psweeneypsweeney Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply!

    No other issues, no check engine light..... the change oil light came on a week ago, but I know that has nothing to do with it.

    If it isn't the ignition switch, what else could it be?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    It could be a few things: fuel pressure regulator, beginnings of a bad crankshaft sensor, bad connection at the battery, etc.

    The igniton switch is a very, very common repair on the 1999-2002 3.5L Intrigues. It seems the 2002 fail quicker. Also check the connections at the batteries.

    I had the same experience as you with my 2000 Intrigue. For months, some mornings it woudl start right away, other times it would take 10 tries. Then I stalled a couple of times while driving and the "security" light came on. Then everytime I started the vehicle, I needed at least 4 tries. This happened over several months so it took a while for me to diagnose the problem.
  • seilogrampseilogramp Member Posts: 2
    2000 Olds Intrigue. Key will not turn in ignition. Car is in park. Can't move it into any other gear. All lights are working. Parking brake is off. Any ideas?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Do you have second key you can try? I'm sure you tried wiggling the steering wheel while the brake is depressed. Can you push in the shift lock button?
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    Make really sure it is in park. Ours was once in reverse and had the same problem you describe, and it was not easy to tell it was in reverse. We had a good laugh afterwards.
  • seilogrampseilogramp Member Posts: 2
  • greendgreend Member Posts: 2
    I am in the process of buying a 3.5L, 6 cylinder engine for a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. I have found several engines but one is notes as a Calif. NC1 emissions engine. Does anyone know what the difference is in the build between a California NC1 versus the Federal emission requirements.

    Thanks.
  • teresam72teresam72 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Intrigue. I have had it for about a year besides new tires and oil changes I also recently had the front tie rods replaced and a new battery. After 1st getting the car I noticed two things my turn signals only seem to work when they want to also my ABS light comes on. Now when my ABS light is on my breaks work fine when its not on I get that stutter feeling when I brake. Again it only does this when the light is not on. What could cause this and the turn signals I have replaced the bulbs and signal switch. More recently I have to turn it over several times for it to start and even pump the gas a little it does start but it takes a few tries. I'm trying to decide if fixing or saving for another car would be better. A few things that I know I need done are the brakes and 1 rotor 1 strut and the motors in 3 windows replaced. Well any ideas or advice would be great... SHOULD IT STAY OR SHOULD IT GO....
  • danman99danman99 Member Posts: 6
    I'm trying to remove a 3.5L engine from a 99 Olds Intrigue. Having trouble separating it from the transmission. ALL bolts are out; and the half-shaft is removed on the passenger side. Am I missing something??
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    http://99intrigue.shutterfly.com/engineremoval

    The factory procedure is to drop it with the subframe. I didn't have a lift so I did a hybrid - dropped the subframe but lifted from above. You have to disconnect the steering to do that. Not for the faint of heart.
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    Ok, I looked again at my pics and forgot one tip. Did you remove the engine to transmission bolt on the backside of the engine? Check out the pics from number 11 to 17.
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    I am not sure but probably has to do with secondary air injection system, which uses an electrically driven air pump to help heat up the catalysts when the engine is cold. If you don't have that on the original system you just block off the ports and switch the 02 sensor. Otherwise, you probably have to swap the front exhaust manifold. I would do some research, get good pics and compare manifolds.
  • greendgreend Member Posts: 2
  • teresam72teresam72 Member Posts: 2
  • jensolds00jensolds00 Member Posts: 5
    I have been having similar issues and have read that it could be caused by a faulty ignition switch. My turn signals work when they want and I have the ABS, Trac off, brake, and service engine lights on on my dash and they have been on since a little before I replaced my tie rod ends. I am not sure what is the cause but I also have issues with the air, my compressor and heat works just the blower seems to work when it wants to work. I need help. I am to the point that I want another car but I love the way this one rides and drives when it's now having problems. Also when I use the cruise control it doesn't stay engaged and usually cuts off after a few mins. I am baffled and am just waiting for it to catch fire with all the electrical issues. The gas hand floats a lot to. Sometimes it seems to work and most of the time it sits on empty or jumps to full. PLEASE HELP!!!! :sick:
  • danman99danman99 Member Posts: 6
    Where do I find the pics?
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    Click the link. Click on the pics and they will get bigger.
  • danman99danman99 Member Posts: 6
    Since we have 4 vehicles, this car has just been sitting until I could figure out what to do. I think you may have pointed me in the right direction!! I think this bolt might have been missed!! Thanks! Are you sure the moror/tranny have to come out together? It appears that there is enough room to slide the engine away from the tranny and up and out.
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    No, not sure at all that engine and transmission need to come out together. In fact, after putting it back in, I resolved to try pulling the motor alone should I ever have to do it again.

    Let us know how it goes, and if it's not too much trouble, try to take some pics - I would be happy to create a page for them on my shutterfly website. I would really like that to be a resource for Intrigue 3.5l owners.

    Hope it goes well.
  • gilgameshgilgamesh Member Posts: 2
  • samantha_josamantha_jo Member Posts: 5
  • ramon7ramon7 Member Posts: 6
    Hey my name is ramon and I just bought a 1998 oldsmobile intrigue and since its been getting colder out I realize I have a problem.....

    When I turn my heater on the driver side gets super cold but the passenger side stays warm.... I tried turning the temp up and down and nothing works...

    All the passenger side will do is blow the same hot air temperature.



    Can someone please tell me what could the problem be??? I would love to have heat for the winter :confuse:
  • ramon7ramon7 Member Posts: 6
    Hey my name is ramon and I just bought a 1998 oldsmobile intrigue and since its been getting colder out I realize I have a problem.....

    When I turn my heater on the driver side gets super cold but the passenger side stays warm.... I tried turning the temp up and down and nothing works...

    All the passenger side will do is blow the same hot air temperature.



    Can someone please tell me what could the problem be??? I would love to have heat for the winter
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    Could be lots of stuff. Coolant level might be low. Cooling system may not be properly bled. Actuators for the HVAC might not be working. Vacuum hoses under the dash might be disconnected. Ignition switch might be bad. Anything in the electrical system not working? Where is the coolant temp gauge needle?
  • ramon7ramon7 Member Posts: 6
    coolant is fine. just changed the themastat, electrical is good
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    Try to be a little more descriptive with what has been going on with the car. Did you change the thermostat to fix the heater or for some other reason? Did you properly bleed the cooling system?
  • ramon7ramon7 Member Posts: 6
    the only way get heat in the car is when i turn on the defrost and the heat only comes out on the passenger side vents while only cold air comes out of the driver side.. i changed the thermostat to try to fix the heater thinking that was the problem. it wasnt. how do you bleed the cooling system? :confuse:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Ramon, is the coolant temperature gauge showing the car is heating up properly? Also do you have a manual or automatic climate control system?

    Unforutnately, I don't know the correct way to bleed the 3.8L engine. Maybe someone can chime in.

    If that checks out, you could have an issue with the HVAC actuators which 99intrigue00 mentioned.
  • 99intrigue0099intrigue00 Member Posts: 15
    Why do you think he has a 3.8?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I read another post of his under another topic:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.f1d195c/5
  • ramon7ramon7 Member Posts: 6
  • pauldog05pauldog05 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe and thier is no air flow from the front heater/defrost and ac. The rear workes just great. I have checked all the fuses and took the blower motor out and they looked and worked just fine. The guages also look like they are working. Would anybody know what else it could be and how would it get fixed. Thank you for your time and help!
    Paul
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    where you park -and the batt is dead, is it flat-or on a hill? if so,try pulling the bulb on your trunk light and engine light..it's a mercury switch,and when you park on a steep driveway,the switch might be turning on that light..draining the batt..
    --also,those short hops in the car are worse on it ..you need to drive it at highway speed for 20/30 minutes to charge the battery. a slow charge-at the lower setting is beetter than the "quick charge-80 amp" setting..
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    back when mom was shopping for her new-01 intriuge-just after 9/11,found the LAST res one-base model G L -in the service department's "well get to it later" row.
    -found out the sensor that is in the key wasn't talking to the switch-or something..they replaced the switch-before she even test drove it,but haven't had any trouble since!
    -so,may be a weak point in a otherwise great car! it's now getting near 100k on her,and still drives great!
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    mom's intriuge has been serving her well..with it getting near 100k on it,am conceerned about -is there a belt on the 3.5? i know the 3.8,that came in the pre 200 models doesn't.
    -didn't the 3.5 have overhead cams?,and if so,what about the belt?
  • swingfirstswingfirst Member Posts: 3
    I have had an Intrigue for a long time. I noticed early on that there was some kind of tube (maybe aluminum) hanging down below the front bumper almost. it forms a loop, going from the passenger side, to the driver side, and back again before disapearing up into the engine. I tied it up a few times but it always managed to get loose again. now it has gotten a hole in it and it drains my steering fluid out. I am trying to fix this but I dont even know what this part is called, so I can't order it or find out how hard it will be to replace.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
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