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  • melech37melech37 Member Posts: 18
    OK, good advice and I will get an indy shop estimate. But the question remains: Can i take that estimate, go to the dealer, and fold that estimate into the lease price?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    edited March 2013
    yes. they'll just up the selling price by that amount. no problem for them at all.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • karhill1karhill1 Member Posts: 165
    You can negotiate anything with the dealer. The dealer will, however, be limited to what the lending institution is willing to finance, purchase price or capitalized cost. Any amount over that will have to be made up with cash.

    The dealer does not set financing as that is done solely by the lending institution. The financing institution will tell the dealer the amount it will lend and the rate at which it will lend. The dealer can pad the rate a bit to increase its reserves. That is why you need to research what financing you qualify for before visiting the dealer. Smart buyers do not expect full disclosure from the dealer for financing matters.
  • rlt68rlt68 Member Posts: 2
    I only get to stay 1 year or so here in Honolulu. But I badly need a car. Do I rent (which is expensive)? Or do I buy used and sell it later? Do I buy from owner or dealer?

    What is the best option?

    Thanks.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
    In my opinion, you should find a cheap used car that holds its value well, like an older Civic or Corolla. Buy it from a private party. As long as you continue to maintain it over the year and don't beat the heck out of it mileage-wise, it shouldn't lose much, if any value in a year.

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  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,891
    Kirstie's is the cheapest overall suggestion. but if you don't have the cash to lay out up front for the car, it can complicate things. You also, of course, have to worry about selling in time for your departure. Another possibility is to check swap-a-lease or leasetrader for vehicles in your area that fit your needs and time constraints.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
    True. I'm not sure why a non-cash purchase hadn't crossed my mind, but it didn't! A lease takeover is a really great option if a purchase would need to be financed.

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  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    The seashells could have been kicked up on engine cover when driving over a gravel mixed type of road.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • melech37melech37 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the suggestion about getting an indy shop estimate for some body damage prior to turning in a lease! My original estimate from a dealer was around $1470. Went to a highly rated independent shop here in Tucson, and the estimate was $470 -- 1/3 the dealer proposal. For that price, I can just pay out of pocket, turn it in and lease a new VW, without folding the damage in to the lease for 3 years.
  • boomchekboomchek Member Posts: 5,516
    Buy used that already hit the bottom in depreciation that you might be able to sell for the same amount you bought it for.

    Depending on your price range, my suggestions would be 10+ year old Hondas or Toyotas as was suggested, preferably from a long time owner, or with service records.

    Usually after 10 years, the depreciation starts to level off so chances are you might be able to recoup your purchase price when you sell it. But that's only for saleable Japanese cars.

    If you must have something fancier and buy and older BMW or Mercedes it might nickle and dime you with servicing, so stick to economy imports.

    2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX

  • rlt68rlt68 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to you both for sharing your thoughts. That lease takeover idea would work best for me. Thank you again. :)
  • melech37melech37 Member Posts: 18
    When will this model be available at the dealers?
  • celenacelena Member Posts: 7
    I sent a request for an OTD price for a new Elantra Limited. I got a generic email in reply that only listed and explained all the rebates and gave me the final listed price--the same price on their website, MSRP minus all the rebates. I then responded, asking for an OTD price, not including any rebates on that particular car and one just like it without the tech package. This is where I think I screwed up. I told them that the best offer I had received so far was $23300 with the tech package and $21300 without, but I was still waiting a couple of others. Perhaps I should have withheld that information for the moment, because this is the response I got (after their internet "specialist" forwarded my email to a sales person):

    i see that these are the vehicles of interest but i have noway of knowing if you live in va. or where or if you will be getting new tags or transfering tags so the best way i can respond to your request is if we are the closet dealer to you and you want to buy from us , bring us your best otd quote and and we will try to meet it . feel free to give me a call if you have more questions or cocerns i'm here until 7 today and 9-5 sat. thanks

    This is his follow-up email:

    i am --- ---- and i had sent you an e/m fri. but haven't had a responce so just incase you didnt get it in short it said , if we are the closest dealer to you and you want to deal with us just bring us your best quote and we will meet or beat it . thanks

    I am flabbergasted. I don't even know how or if I should respond to this. I have never bought or negotiated for a new car before, but both his emails seem extremely unprofessional to me. He never asked me what state I live in or if I would be getting new tags--I would have been happy to tell him. And he just keeps saying, "if we are the closest dealer to you and you want to deal with us." Is he insulted that I'm actually shopping around for the best price on a $20000+ vehicle? It just sounds to me like he doesn't even want to be bothered with the sale.

    Does he think this is the best way to actually get me on the lot and in a car? Or should I just cross him off my list? I would really rather not deal with this person, but am I overreacting? There aren't all that many Hyundai dealerships close by and I would hate to have to cross one off the list, but this guy sounds like a total jerk to me.

    Any help and opinions would be greatly appreciated!!!

    Thanks!
    Celena
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    I think you are over reacting. The internet makes it easy for people to send hundreds e-mail inquiries to dealers hundreds/thousands of miles away. Although sales do occur over e-mail, the vast majority still happen face to face. The sales person is just trying to get a sense where you are located and if you are a serious buyer. He doesn't want to waste time with a tire kicker.

    IMHO, research the car you want and the typical pricing. Then go and visit some dealers and work with them directly. It's not a pair of shoes from Zappo's - it's probably the second most expensive item you'll buy.
  • celenacelena Member Posts: 7
    The dealership is near the state border and tax is lower there, which is why he was asking me about what state I am in. All Virginia businesses along the state line get a lot of bordering state shoppers.

    My biggest problem with his "if we are the closest dealer and you want to buy from us" is that it sounds like he thinks the privilege to buy from them is mine, not the other way around. I realize I'm new to this, but I'm pretty sure he should be trying to get me to buy the car from him, not deigning to allow me the grand privilege of purchasing from them. All the other dealerships have sent prompt and courteous replies have given me exactly the information I've asked for.

    I have researched the car I want and am aware of the typical pricing, which is why I'm negotiating. I've done a lot of reading and from what I can tell, the general consensus is that negotiating online is faster, easier and generally far more successful than doing it in person. Plus, I'm an easily intimidated person and I hate pushy salespeople, so I really think it's the best option for me.

    Thank you so much for the feedback!!!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,221
    I agree with robr2... might be reading too much into a writing style (or lack of one)..

    In my experience, most dealerships don't really do the internet... they just respond asking you to come in... this dealership seems typical. That doesn't mean they don't make good deals or have a good sales experience... it's just one facet of the business that they don't participate in.. (online negotiation)..

    Not that it should matter to you... but, some dealers just don't want to spend the time with the internet, when it results in so few sales for the time expended..

    Just my $0.02... :)

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  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
    Frankly, I'd just pass on working with that person & dealership. His communication style does seem a bit harsh, and there's no real reason to believe you'd click any better with him in person... and, you'll eventually have to go to the dealership. Why initiate a process with a salesperson who seems like he'll make it painful for you?

    There seems to be a pretty big disparity in the quality and experience of internet sales managers at dealerships. Some take a seasoned car salesperson and promote them to that position - it's obviously something they want to focus on. Other times, they just throw any old body into that position, just because they feel they need to have an "internet sales" presence. One of my friend's daughters was given an internet sales manager job at a decent-sized dealership as her first full-time job. Previously, she'd only ever worked as a waitress - no experience in car sales at all. (in fact, I don't think she's ever even bought a car by herself!)

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  • celenacelena Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the reply! I think you are right--this dealership clearly does not want to spend time on internet sales. In which case, I don't understand why they even bother with internet sales features on their website, like "request a quote." That's a bit misleading. I would have been much more willing to show up there to see what they could offer me if there was no way to do so on the internet than I am now, after having dealt with their lack of customer service online. One dealership is being so attentive online, I'm not sure that I wouldn't pay a little more for the car just for the pleasure of dealing with them over ones like this one.
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    The dealership is near the state border and tax is lower there, which is why he was asking me about what state I am in. All Virginia businesses along the state line get a lot of bordering state shoppers.

    Does that really matter? Wouldn't sales tax be based on where you register the vehicle?

    IMHO, he is asking you the questions so he can qualify you - that's part of sales. I don't think he's acting like it's your privilege to buy from him. If you don't like his style, then move on.

    Got one question though - if he gives you the best price, would you still buy from him even though you don't like his methods?
  • celenacelena Member Posts: 7
    Thanks kirstie h! I may pass on them. Maybe I am overreacting, but it's like you said, the more I think about it, it doesn't seem very likely that I would connect any better in person, particularly since I already have a bad first impression. I actually considered contacting their "internet specialist" again to see if she could direct me to another sales person, but I'm not sure it's worth it. Plus, I would probably just be labeled as a problem customer and get nowhere with that person also.

    And just from what little bit I have seen, you are definitely right about the differences between internet sales managers among dealerships. One has yet to respond, one gave me the run around, one gave me exactly what I asked for, and another gave me what I asked for and more. Like I said in my previous reply, there is one dealership that is offering me exceptional internet sales service, so much so, that I may be willing to pay a little more just to deal with them. I realize they are doing it all to make the sale and that it may not bespeak of the entire dealership, but compared to others, indications are that they more customer-service oriented than most.
  • celenacelena Member Posts: 7
    edited March 2013
    Thanks for the reply! I have no idea about the tax. So many people around here buy cars from Virginia because they say it's cheaper--I just assumed it was because of the sales tax. But I am guessing that he also needed to know what state it would be registered in, as that would make a difference in costs.

    You may be right, but why does he keep saying "if we are the closest dealer"? Why does that matter? If it's because people buy the cars there and then take it somewhere else for service (which I would not), then shouldn't their customer service be better to encourage people to come back? Or maybe their customer service is awful and that's why people do that to them.

    That's why I was asking other people's opinion on the matter. I wasn't sure what to make of his methods, as I am so new to this. But from his email, it sounds like he will most likely only match it, and I would have to go down there for him just to do that. I don't know that it's worth the trouble. If he did quote a price significantly lower than anyone else, I would consider it. Otherwise, I'm not so sure. If it were marginally lower, it would depend on how I felt about dealing with him outside of the emails.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    From what I've seen, that salesperson just might have the best writing skills of anyone in that store.

    Seriously.. Stores are losing good people.

    I was with my son last summer when he was shopping for a new Jeep Wrangler and one store was like a third world country.

    A lot of places turn over their staff constantly.
  • boomchekboomchek Member Posts: 5,516
    I don't understand why they even bother with internet sales features on their website, like "request a quote." That's a bit misleading.

    But you did get a quote, just not one you were hoping for.

    I will agree that the response you received lacked basic grammar and courtesy, but having done the internet sales manager position, from experience, sending out rock bottom quotes to someone unknown rarely results in sales. The price is taken and then shopped in person at a local dealer. Hence most dealers use the net as a communication tool to get people to come in. After all, after you get your quotes you'll still have to come in to the dealership in person to get the car.

    2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    It's hard to win. If you are foolish enough to give out a number, that number will be shopped. If you don't give out hard numbers this will anger some shoppers and you'll never see them.

    The internet attracts flakes, non buyers and non serious shoppers.

    It's frustrating to dig through a pile of garbage "leads" hoping to find a good one. This is where phone and writing skills come into play.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
    Well, some of those "skills" should come from the serious consumer, too. Having been around here for awhile, when I requested an internet quote I did my best to show the dealership that I was a serious consumer. I stated in my email that:
    1. I am very interested in specific vehicle x in your inventory.
    2. I am 100% going to be purchasing a vehicle this week.
    3. I want this year, make, model and options. Color not critical, but everything else is.
    4. Please send me a good faith price on this vehicle and I will follow up with an appointment to meet and test drive.

    While I still could be a tire-kicker, I feel like adding more specifics so it didn't look like a "blast" email would at least give the impression that I'm a serious buyer and ready to talk.
    (in the end, specific vehicle x was sold before they responded, but at least they took the time to tell me that.)

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  • billy3554billy3554 Member Posts: 148
    Having bought many, many vehicles I think I know a thing or two about the process. The internet is a great way to identify those dealers who will sell at a fair price without much pain and those who prefer to grind the buyer into submission. My advice is to avoid any dealer who sends a generic email response.

    The simple fact is some dealers have embraced the internet and some have not. Experience has shown me the dealers who have embraced the internet, those you give a personalized response complete with a price, represent the best choice for the buyer. A smart dealer will respond to an email inquiry with the exact information the emailer requested. Any dealer who does not provide the exact information requested simply wants the buyer to visit at which time the dealer can resort to the grind process.

    Since you live in Virginia, you should to to the Fitzgerald Auto web site. They sell Hyundai and post a no haggle price on line. If you have not already, you should go to True Car and see their price. The thing to remember is both Fitzgerald and True Car prices are not the lowest. They will however give you a maximum you would have to pay.

    To price the vehicle, I have found this process works well. All information is available at the Edmund's site. First, get the invoice price. Then reduce that price by any incentive, both to the buyer and to the dealer. Then futher reduce the price by the holdback. Add a few hundred to the invoice less incentive and less holdback.

    When you negotiate work up from that number not down from the MSRP, which is what the dealer wants you to do.
  • tommister2tommister2 Member Posts: 393
    I'm a big fan of Fitzgerald. They were one of the first on the Internet and they have their no haggle price. The Wall Street Journal did a big write up on them, probably back in 1999. I think it's a great business model. Could you get a better price somewhere else? Probably, but if you just want an easy deal at a fair price Fitzgerald is a great place to start.

    (I don't work for them or any dealer, I'm just a big fan and a chronic car buyer)
    2011 Toyota Camry, 2014 Jeep Wrangler, 2017 Honda Civic Coupe, 2019 Toyota Rav4 Hybrid XSE, 2021 Toyota Tundra, 2022 Toyota 4Runner, 2022 Tesla Model 3
  • karhill1karhill1 Member Posts: 165
    Also, it is always good to remember:

    The sales person is not your friend, regardless of how freindly he or she may seem. Not your enemy but not your freind.The sales person has one objective which is to sell you a vehicle at the highest possible price. Diametrically opposite or your goal which is to buy the vehicle at the lowest possible cost.

    You, the buyer, are in control of the process not the sales person. Your best asset in negotiation is your feet. You can always leave and there is always another dealer ready to sell you the vehicle. The sales person knows this and you can use it to your advantage.

    Do not believe anything a sales person tells you. A healthy skepticism is always best.

    If you have done your research, you know approximately how much the dealer paid for the vehicle. Though in reality, the dealer probably paid less. Keeping that in mind, you should always be able to achieve a fair price.

    And finally, just say NO to anything offered in the dealer's F&I office. Every product is vastly overpriced and most are essentially useless. For example, that $2,000 extended warranty they offer might have cost them $800. Do you think giving the dealer $1,200 makes financial sense?
  • boomchekboomchek Member Posts: 5,516
    Although you have some good points, an extended warranty is not always a bad bet as long as you can negotiate a price you're happy with and think you'll actually use it especially when it comes to European luxury cars.

    Regardless of how much a $2000 warranty cost the dealer, if it can cover your $5000 transmission repair that's out of factory warranty then you're ahead.

    2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    The only trouble is, the more troublesome the car is, the more expensive the extended warranty will be.

    On a Honda Civic or a Toyota Corolla those warranties aren't expensive and will more than likely never be used.

    Buy one for an Audi or a Volvo and the cost will be through the roof and for good reason.

    Heck, the biggest warranty company in the country wont even sell one on Land Rovers after getting burned so many times.

    Still, some people need the peace of mind and there is nothing better than having that 5000.00 transmission rebuild cost nothing.

    The question is...How risk adverse are you?
  • verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,286
    Although you have some good points, an extended warranty is not always a bad bet as long as you can negotiate a price you're happy with

    Another point is that you don't have to buy the warranty at the dealership when buying the car.

    You can buy it at anytime before the original warranty period is over. You can shop around the internet.

    (This is only for the brand's own warranty. Never get a 3rd party warranty)
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    There are some excellent third party warranty companies such as Universal Underwriters that have a proven track recorn and have been in business for many years.

    Most are flaky and they come and go.

    Find out how long they have been around and what their track record is.
  • ken117ken117 Member Posts: 249
    Certainly with a $5,000 bill for a covered repair, paying $2,000 for an extended service contract would be a good deal. However, the small print on the contract can be designed to minimize the repairs covered. Additionally, the contracts are priced for profit, to both the dealer and company providing the contract. Therefore, most who buy such a contract will not come out ahead.

    If a person believes an extended service contract is needed, I think it best to only buy from the OEM. And only buy after the sale. During the sale the dealer is counting on the fact the buyer having just said yes will spend too much. For the contract.
  • verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,286
    Most are flaky and they come and go.

    Find out how long they have been around and what their track record is.


    Why take the chance? Stick to the manufacturer's warranty.
  • boomchekboomchek Member Posts: 5,516
    Whether you buy during or after the sale is irrelevant. If you buy it after the fact, most likely you will have to get you vehicle inspected at your cost to make sure there are no current issues with it. As long as you negotiate a price you're happy is all that matters.

    I bought an extended 3rd party warranty from the place I worked at where I bought my BMW. The warranty paid for itself within 1 year.

    When that expired I bought another one. If I'd be driving a Corolla or Camry I probably wouldn't. But since my car is past the 4 year factory coverage I just don't want to take the chance.

    I just find it irresponsible when people make a blanket statement telling car buyers not to buy "anything" in the finance office. They're not the ones that will be stuck with an expensive repair bill should something go wrong. The carbuyer will. And sometimes the cheapest plan found on the net may not cover everything, may have a cap on repair amounts, or company may not be around when it's time to make a claim.

    Case in point. I sold an out of warranty 5 year old Mercedes S Class to a family. We had the car on the lot for a month, with the manager driving it almost daily. No issues. A family buys it, declines extended warranty, and after a few months the car starts to develop stalling and electronic problems. Our shop could not replicate the issue, and no codes popped up.

    We sent it to MB and they found the car needs a torque converter and possibly a new transmission at a cost of between $5000-$10000. Although the car was past our used car guarantee period, our management decided to help out somehow and cover some of the costs.

    As cars get more complicated these days, it's just good to have that protection in case you need it.

    2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    " Why take the chance?"To save a lot of money in most cases BUT you have to go with a long established trusted warranty company!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I kinda agree with you.

    All you are buying is an expensive insurance policy. If you end up using it you will thank your lucky stars that you bought it.

    People with limited resources are often the same people who buy cars they really shouldn't buy such as that Mercedes. They just HAVE to drive a fancy
    european car when they should be buying something that makes more sense.

    They pay top dollar for these extended warranties and they are expensive for a very good reason.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Extended warranties are nothing more than a bet.

    The insurance/warranty company is betting that your car won't break down, and you're betting that it will.

    It's ironic, in a way---it's like when you have good medical insurance and you get diagnosed with a horrible disease---you get to jump up and down with joy and say "Hurray! I'm covered!" :P

    Or, just buy a Toyota.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Yes, a bet with the odds heavilly weighted against the people who buy extended warranties.

    Back when I was a manager for Sears, we really pushed the salespeople to sell what they called Maintenance Agreements. Sometimes we made more profit on these than on the actual product!
  • verdugoverdugo Member Posts: 2,286
    To save a lot of money in most cases BUT you have to go with a long established trusted warranty company!

    If you shop around, you can (should?) get a the manufacturer's warranty for a very good price.

    Maybe it will be a bit more, but that's the cost of piece of mind.

    Again, it's up to each buyer to determine what is a priority for them.

    With my last Jeep, I looked at buying a Jeep warranty from a dealer via the internet. Price was very similar to what 3rd party ones cost.

    I decided not to buy one after all.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    If the price was close I would probably go with the manufacturer.

    My only point is the fact that there are some solid companies out there that sell the warranties.

    With an aftermarket warranty you can take your car anywhere instead of to a dealer. Helpful when you are not near a dealer.

    But, I never buy them anyway so it doesn't matter for me.
  • ken117ken117 Member Posts: 249
    Nothing more than a bet, exactly. And most likely a losing bet.

    As has been stated, people concerned about the reliability of their vehicle should buy a vehicle that has a stellar reliability record. With today's vehicles there are many to choose.

    An extended service contract probably costs an additional $40 or so on a monthly payment. People concerned about possible repairs after the OEM warranty expires should take that extra $40 each month and put it in an interest bearing account. If a repair is later needed, the cash is available. Of course, if there are no repairs the cash is still available for other things.

    Why anyone would choose to pay the dealer and service contract provider a huge profit for an overpriced extended service contract is a mystery.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I feel the same, but there may be one or two cars where it could be a decent bet to make. Of course, if you buy a car that has a reputation for trouble, the insurance company offering the warranty is going to make the wager on the bet all the larger.
  • brettlottbrettlott Member Posts: 1
    my hyundai isnt shifting into over drive i found 2 broken wires by the shifter and reconnected them drove it down the road it tried to shift then just reved up what else can be wrong im asking you cause the car originally came from your dealership
  • billy3554billy3554 Member Posts: 148
    Advising folks not to buy anything in the dealer's F&I office, The Box, is certainly not irresponsible. The simple fact is almost every product sold in The Box is overpriced, usually by at least 100 percent over cost and those products can almost always be purchased elsewhere for a much, much lower cost.

    Products sold in The Box which might have some value to some buyers may include GAP, dent coverage, and perhaps a maintenace contract. However, to be of value these products must be purchased at a fair price, which is rarely the price set by the dealer.

    An extended service contract may cost the dealer $900. The dealer may offer such that contract at $2,500 and negotiate down to $1,800. An unsuspecting buyer might think they got a great deal. However, a savy buyer could easily find the same contract from a dealer on line, after the sale, for perhaps $1,200. Now really, isn't a thirty-three percent profit for the dealer more than fair?

    Seems the only folks suggesting a buyer purchase an extended service contract at the dealer at the time the vehicle is purchased are the dealer and the dealer's top sales people who occupay the F&I office. In other words, the same people who make the huge profits from those F&I prodcut sales.

    Anyone can, as mentioned in your post, find a situation where someone benefited from an extended service contract. The F&I office is full of such examples. F&I folks use those examples to instill fear into the minds of the buyer as they know such fear is a powerful sellng tool.

    Extended service contracts are priced to allow the dealer and contract provider to make a healthy profit. Such profit will not be realized and the service contract provider will not remain in business unless the majority of service contracts ultimately provide no net cost benefit to the buyer.

    Smart car buyers research the cost of the vehicle they intend to purchase. They go into the dealership with a confident pricing goal. However, fewer buyers truly understand the profit margins and actual values of the products sold in The Box.

    A buyer might purchase a $30K vehicle at a cost which results in a profit of 2-3 percent to the dealer. Those same buyers might spend $3,000 for various products bought in The Box without realizing that $3,000 resulted in a 100 percent or more profit for the dealer.

    Truly, a buyer's best bet is to say no to everything in the F&I office. The word no is the only way to maintain the integrity of the vehicle purchase.
  • aca20031aca20031 Member Posts: 1
    I will be moving from Florida to Washington state in June to start a new job, and I had wanted to get preapproved for a loan so I could go to Washington state and purchase a car almost immediately - cabs and rentals are very expensive and I'm under 25 so rentals are even worse.

    I got approved through a bank for a 2.3% interest rate and was excited about it, but it wasn't until I called the loan agent back that someone told me: I can't apply for a loan with a Florida address and buy a car in Washington, because the car has to be registered in the state I purchase it and that has to match the loan information. Worse, she explained that I can't buy and register a car -at all- until I have a Washington license and an address there.

    Is there any way I can go about this and buy a car when I touch down in Washington state so I don't have to pay over $1000 for a rental car while I search for an apartment? Do I really need the Washington state license to register a car there? Is there anything I'm missing?

    Thanks for any help
  • houdini1houdini1 Member Posts: 8,327
    edited April 2013
    I am no expert on the State of Washington, but that doesn't sound right to me. Maybe you got some bad information or something was lost in the translation. It should not be that difficult. You could try calling a dealer in the area you are moving to and ask them.

    Hopefully, someone who knows for sure will chime in.

    2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited April 2013
    You were given the right info.

    What you need to do is establish residence in Washington apply for new states license then you could register car in that state. not what your doing.. unless you want to travel back across country to register where you use to live. that would be crazy..

    What does seem funny to me is if you are approved for a loan it should have no bearing on what state your buying a car. your approved on a specific amount.
    Call bank or credit union back and tell them you will be buying in Washington state and living there at time of vehicle purchase..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • salesguyjaysalesguyjay Member Posts: 22
    Its true - Have to have a valid license you're registering the car in ... I sell here in MD ... and MD will allow you to register here and give you a temporary license number, but you need to convert it into a real license within a set period of time. Perhaps you should contact Washington's DMV to see if thats possible.

    The reason why the bank is saying that - Banks typically do not want to fund the loan if the vehicle is being titled or registered to an address/state where the buyer isn't living OR doesn't have any history at that address. It raises a red flag - and they will sometimes consider it a "straw" purchase and deny the loan that originally had been approved.

    Good luck - Contact the DMV there for help - Because you're better off paying $1000 for a rental, rather than buying in Florida and paying tax there and then re-registering in WA and perhaps having to pay an additional tax or fees!
  • blxblx Member Posts: 2
    Im looking at purchasing a new 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit. The car was broken into after it was produced before it was delivered and the factory repaired the vehicle. The dealer than bought the vehicle from a Chysler auction. The car has less than 10 miles. The wheels were stolen and some damage was done to the door. Most importantly the radio/information system was ripped out of the dash. Everything was repaired and the dealer supplied me with an itemized list of what was repaired. Total cost of factory repairs was between 4 and 5 thousand. It has full factory warranty on it. The estimated fair price of this vehicle now, is approx 46000, the dealer wants to sell it for 42000. I am in process of doing a check on the VIN to make sure its clean.
    My questions...
    Is this a fair discount for a vehicle damaged like this?
    What was the estimated discount the dealer bought this vehicle for?
    Is there anything else i need to be aware when buying a repaired new vehicle like this i need to be aware of?

    Thanks for any informed Input
    BLX
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