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If you can get that filter off without removing the plate, you are definitely more flexible than this old dog!
That "gasket" that Hyundai uses just keeps you from gauling the oil pan surface around the drain hole. I don't get down -too- much on the factory for those tight oil filters. More than once I have put one on to "contact plus one turn", only to have to bust a gut to get it off. I have seen Ford's with the original filter on so tight you would crush it with a band wrench trying to get it off. Crushing a filter is a lot more common with aftermarket filters than with OEM. Thinner steel walls.
Thanks for any feedback
Any suggestions?
FM is not affected much by a bad ground, but AM definitely is affected.
Anyone out there compare the Elantra Touring against the Tucson? is it me, or does the ET have more rear cargo room than the Tucson. Although the Tucson certainly has a more powerful four-banger.
I really like this car but stuff like this really gets me angry. Absolutely no excuse for them to have a dealer-only part like a wiper blade. What were they thinking (or not thinking)???
Was it the wiper arm that the auto supply store carried that would not fit, or the rubber insert?
Also I don't think this is an auto supply store issue. The blade manufacturers are not making one that fits the ET. As I said, it's not like a 12" rear wiper blade is an uncommon thing -- Trico makes 2 different models. No excuse for the engineers at Hyundai not making the car compatible with one of those.
Also, it's neither the arm (which I think of as the metal piece) nor the insert. It's the replacement plastic blade. Does anyone bother replacing the insert anymore? That would be an option if it were doable.
daughter thinks I am nuts too. My husband is upset with me since he has
always kept his cars for at least ten years. My touring cost me only $2,500
after trading in a 2004 Toyota Sienna Ltd ($75 a week to fill that tank).
In the earlier days I needed a large van as I was often hauling five or more
kids to swim practice and swim meets. When the touring came out I was one
of the first to buy it. Now I'm almost a senior citizen with no need to
haul kids, and except for a few more trips to and from college, I doubt I
would be hauling anything I can't fit in the back seat or trunk. The
Touring has been paid up since I bought it. I'm figuring with a trade on
the Touring I should be able to get the 2011 sedan for less than $5,000
inclusive of taxes and tags, which would cost me about $90 a month for 60
months. That's just two dinners out a month. As soon as we stop having
snow storms, I've got to go test drive it before I make a final decision.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I wish I had the money others do, and be able to buy new cars every 4 years. Like you, I try to keep mine well over 10 years. I had a Corolla wagon for 13 years; a 626 that a deer took car of; a Malibu Maxx that GM tried to make my personal coffin; and now two Vibes (Corollas) and a Hyundai. Right now, I won't buy anything other than Kia/Hyundai. They are rising very quickly and deserve all they are getting. I am done with Toyotas and GMs since they don't build anything I want (wagons) and are too pompous to correct their mistakes. My next car will either be a used Elantra (previous version) or a used ET, or a new Sonata wagon should they send it to our shores in 2012.
I'll be keeping my car for about 10 years & we're trying to get her Mazda 3 to 100k miles, a 1st for us. Makes financial sense at this stage in our lives as I've recently retired & due to health issues, I'm not really wanting to go back to any kind of part time work if we can swing it. So keeping our cars as long as possible is a good 1st step.
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
I checked on Advance Auto Parts and they show a Trico Exact Fit 14-A fits the Accent, so obviously that model has a normal connection. Sadly, they did not choose to do the same for the ET, and it requires a Hyundai-specific part
- This happens only when it is relatively cold outside (approximately below 35)
- This happens only when the car is relatively "warm" from the previous run (like if I run out to a grocery store and come back in 5 - 20 min)
- If I choose to start driving with that sound, it does not seem to go away on its own (at least not within 15-20 min that I kept motor running)
- The sound always goes away if I re-start the car
- I checked: the sound is not from a back window wiper nor washer motors. And it seems to come from the vehicle's underside
- I bought my Touring new in summer 2009. During first winter this sound came up maybe only few times. This winter it is almost every other time when starting "warm".
Anyone has similar experience? Will appreciate your comments.
Thank you!
One tip we were given - don't let the vehicle sit around with low fuel levels (under 1/4 tank) regularly. Apparently, the fuel pumps don't take well to drying out. I can't verify that this is correct, but it was something a mechanic mentioned.
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The sounds is precisely whining with pitch somewhat cyclically chaning over time...
The car is still under warranty (30k miles) so I want to bring it to the dealer.
But the question is, what should I expect from the dealer?
My first concern is that I'm not sure if I'd be able to replicate a whining mode when I go to the dealer. Another thing is that even if I can make it whine, will that be a sufficient symptom for a dealership mechanic to prompt diagnostics/repairs (since functionally the car is working fine).
From your experience, would you please recommend how should I talk this issue to the dealership.
Thank you very much.
I should add that a reputable shop will take care of something like this out of warranty if the issue was reported beforehand. I had a GM product that suffered and expensive failure just out of warranty, and I approached the dealer in a courteous manner, after which they contacted GM, and GM picked up the tab. It happened to be one of those things that should never have failed in 100K miles, much less 14months and 30K miles.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110633906482
I have no relationship to the company other than a (hopefully) happy buyer. I exchanged email with them and the guy told me that it does fit the ET (they have you send the VIN so they can verify).
HYUNDAI ELANTRA TOURING NAMED BEST CAR FOR THE MONEY BY U.S. NEWS AND WORLD REPORT
Of course, we all knew this already, but it just shows how smart we are!
The mechanic at the dealership was able to replicate whining sound, confirmed it was a fuel pump and had it replaced (warranty).
Thank you again for your expertise and helpful advice.
:shades:
Not a chance. I went to Canadian Tire and checked out other read blades. If you go to any auto parts place and look at the actual blade, not the mechanism, you will see that they are pretty well all the same.
I removed the blade from the holder mechanism on the arm (why replace the who arm when onlyl the blade is bad? either bade design, lack of thought or greed) by pulling up on the blade while pushing it through. did the same on the replacement blade ($11.50) and then replaced it on the holding mechanism. I found it easier to work from the bottom , pulling it out past the end of the holder, then doing the top portion.
I looked at the Mazda 3 and the Nissan Versa and a few others. What is my biggest complaint about the ET, is the poor gas mileage due to lack of a high enough gear. I first looked at Elantra in the early 90's but even at 80 km/hr i wanted to shift into a higher gear. my 2010 ET is quite quiet, but it revs at 2300 at 90 km/hr. If it drive like I did my previous car, 2000 Saturn LS1, I would get about 12l/100 km not the 7.5 I got with my saturn. My other complaint is the amount of road noise: this is mostly a problem when driving in lots of rain, or even worse, snow and slush.
But then again, I got a good price: bought it with a set of spare rims and top quality winter tires; rear cargo area cover (should be a standard item), mud flaps, bug hood deflector and something else.. with taxes, it was $22,300 with zero financing costs for 5 years.
Coming back, little or no wind, 75-80mph, 30.4 per the trip computer, calculated about the same.
The engine does rev quite high at those speeds (5spd, has lower ratio final drive) so ~3600 RPM seems to be what I recall. But that is also in the sweet spot for the 2.0L, so it runs there with little effort.
In a remote area with no traffic I have buzzed up to 100mph. Did so with what seemed to be little effort. I had read somewhere that these little beasts are capable of just above 120, but I have never pushed it there.
sheesh.
:sick:
My ET has done this several times: with cruise control on I press in clutch to put car in neutral to coast off freeway and the engine goes to 6500 redline and stays there.
I thought it was supposed to go off when doing these things: pressing on/off button on steering wheel, putting in the clutch and pressing the brake pedal. It freaks me out, because you don't notice what the noise is until it has been doing it for a little while. Then you have to get it to go off.
Am I missing something? Anybody have this happen to them?