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Problems with my Isuzu Rodeo
alright i bought it about a year and a half ago and theres a few problems that bother me. first is that my dash lights or and lights that were to go on when the trucks lights go on dont work. now the 4WD doesnt want to engage when i shift it but it occasionally do but it makes a loud clicking or knocking and jumps around alot. and i have a problem with city gas mileage the highway is fine i get 15-20 but in city it seems like 5-10 and i know its not the way i drive because i normally do the speed limit. any help to any of the problems would be greatly appriciated thank you
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does the window have to open first, then the door??? does the key have to be held in, and why does it work sometimes and not others????
Mass or circuit range performance problem and then it was no longer intermittent but refused to idle without foot on accelerator pedal, would hunt and stall.
I replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor and aircleaner element. Checked the connector and cable to the loom for bad connections, (visual for brecks etc.) could find no obvious problems. Unplugging MAF sensor makes no difference in helping poor performance.
Did notice something odd when engine is shut down a destinctive hissing is heard between the back of the engine and the firewall. It does not sound like intake leak as the noise is high on the firewall like its coming from one of the solenoids or vacuum lines on the upper plenum and only after you shut the engine off.
I do not believe it is intake gaskets (again) as I have had them replaced twice a year apart just a year ago. The code for the intake leak was P0300 and another that indicated a lean condition on one bank of cylinders.
It does not sound like the MAF signal is getting to the PCM or the ECM. Does the 3.2 V6 Rodeo have a MAF relay?
If any body has any ideas I sure could use some help. My diagnostic equipment consists of digital multimeters and other assorted continuity testers. Nothing exotic like laptop diagnostics. Thanks
it was about 45.00 dollars and also get the injector o ring kit if you have no place in town to get one. it took me about 4 hours to replace but mine runs great now.
I had the intake manifold gaskets replaced exactly a year ago and i was getting a code P0300 and another that indicated a lean condition on one bank at that time.
That was the second time I had the intake gaskets replaced.
The code now is P0101 and P0102, MAF problems, although I replaced the MAF and it made no difference.
This time I get no lean condition codes or missing cylinders. I can't believe the intake gaskets would go a third time in two years.
It appears the MAF is not able to read the volume because air is entering somewhere along the intake path. When I first start it up I get lots of black smoke from tail pipe but it disappear after a few minutes of run time. I drove it again last night and it seems to run pretty good at driving rpms and under load and is not down on power and the temperature is normal, it just won't ide and hunts in neutral under 1000 RPMs (it will hunt and fluctuate up to two thaousand when you are
holding the throttle to keep it from stalling.
I sure hope you are wrong about the intake gaskets as it would be the third time in less than 5000 miles they needed to be replaced. It cost me over $400. each time. If it is gaskets again then the engine's is junk or the so called reputible mechanics are morons that worked on it.
Thanks for your help I do appreciate your input.
Jim
Lowell
But it really sounds as though you trans oil cooler and/or lines are plugged.
That will definitely cause the transmission to overheat and destroy it.
I would pull the lines and check them for either bring crushed or plugged and the same for the cooler and replace it with and aftermarket cooler kit if necessary.
Jimb
Faulty Idle Air Control Motor. Not only was there some carbon on the valve seat but the motor itself (it looks like a worm and sector drive that pulls the valve back and forth) needed to be lubricated with some WD-40.
I cleaned the carbon out of it first and that helped but it was still stalling, hunting and racing intermittently. I pulled it off and sprayed the WD-40 on the shaft where it enters the housing, reassembled and presto-chango! ran like a clock and has since then. The idle air control is a very precision valve so to speak and the air (and
exhaust gas) has to be measured in very precise amounts or it will cause the problems that I was experiencing
The AIC costs around fifty bucks to replace but I had just dropped $165.00 on a Mass Airflow Sensor and lots of time looking for intake leaks etc.( P-0101. P-0102) and was glad to save fifty bucks by cleaning/lubricating the old one.
Jimb
The last time I had it serviced I asked about checking trans fluid and they told me they couldn't or didn't know how. The transfer case levels can be checked during routine service. The manual says the dealer is supposed to check transmission fluid levels when leaking and make repairs when required. I have no leakage but on two separate occasions I had what was slippage when shifting from reverse to D. It returned to normal in a few moments which made me suspect low transmission fluid levels even though I can see no leaks. Is it a sealed system or should it be checked and or topped off?
JimsRodeo.
And yes, you must open the window before opening the door.
There are two plugs in the tranny pan. One is the drain plug and the other higher one is the fill/check level plug. The AFT is filled until it overflows the higher plug. If you want to check the level, remove the upper plug while the vehicle is on level ground. If a bit drips out, it is properly full.
The French made GM 4L30E tranny is partial to very clean ATF. It will last longer if the ATF is changed very 30K miles (50k kms) or so.
If the fluid has not been changed frequently, especially if it is dirty, a pan off flush and refill is recommended.
Remove the pan and inspect for metal particles. You will need to remove the rear tranny support cross-member to remove the rear bolts. Support the transfer case to remove the cross-member.
If there is more than fine metal fibers on the magnet, your tranny is showing wear leading to the need for a rebuild soon. If it is just dirty and/or thick, clean the pan, especially the layer of thick muck in the pan bottom. Remove the filter and clean and back flush it. I use dishwashing liquid and hot water for both. Be sure to thoroughly dry it. Water and ATF do not mix well. Remove, drain, clean and reinstall the front smaller pan under the overdrive unit.
Reinstall the pan. Be sure the gasket is clean and the surfaces are dry. I wipe a very thin film of RTF silicone on both surfaces and let it dry. This helps prevent wicking of ATF.
Fill the tranny to the overfill point. Disconnect a cooler line. Put a one foot length of fuel line on the metal tube. Now put both ends in a bucket. (1)Have someone start the vehicle in Park and watch the level in the bucket. When about a gallon has pumped into the bucket, shut down the engine. Top off the tranny with new ATF. If the fluid flowing into the bucket (the last drops) is still dirty, repeat from (1). You should now have clean ATF good for another 20 to 30k miles.
The 4L30E uses 9+ quarts of Dextron II ATF.
I used this process on a 2000 Rodeo tranny with 127k miles without an ATF change. The ATF was black and thick as molasses. Within 50 miles, the tranny was shifting smooth. My 92 Rodeo needed a rebuild at 95k due to it eating the planetary gear due to debris in the ATF. It had the problematic dip stick.
btw, I bought both Rodeos in this unmaintained condition.
I HOPE SOMEONE CAN HELP TIRED OF SPENDING MONEY ON IT.
I would work on the misfire until it is solved. Then the O2 sensor may correct itself.
If you suspect a coil is bad, swap just one from the Bank 1 to Bank 2 until the CEL code says Bank 2. That should be the bad coil. They are pricey new but available at junk yards.
Problem with a intermittent problem is the mechanic can not find it on his equipment. It takes time driving with minor changes (Bank 1 to Bank 2 swaps) for the computer to show it. I have an OBD-II code reader so I can do code reads myself. It is well worth the investment.
Swapping one coil at a time is an easy side of the road process. It takes a 10 mm socket if my memory serves me right. The coil harness plug has a release button. Pull the coil up and out. Check it for grime on the outside of the boot to the plug. I mark the coils with a white paint pen to keep track of the swapping.
You will need to clear the codes each time you do a swap. The OBD-II code reader has a code clear function.
Or, you could take it to your mechanic for him to do a parking lot swap. Three swaps should tell if the coil is the problem.
Question, How soon does the Bank 1 misfire code show up after a code clear?
Over three days of driving to work and to the auto parts store after work, you could have this process completed doing just one coil per day.
Or, just buy a cheap OBD-II code reader. I paid about $40 for mine. I keep it in the car when we go on any trips.
Maybe the coil needs to get warm before it starts failing.
So the shop diagnosed it at internal sensors in the throttle body which couldn't be replaced. And replacing the Throttle Body is a heavy price tag. Not wanting to throw money away, I skiped it and the car ran great for 3 months, then after a while it was back to its old problems.
I knew I couldn't throw money away like that until I checked all the sensors first. So I borrowed a computer from Autozone(everyone should do this) and found all the malfunction codes and their probable cause, and the computer came back with a few different codes, one was a bad EGR sensor, another was the the TPS (throttle position sensor), and failed APS(which is an electrical connection issue somewhere).
Now the current symptoms: the car will start and run, but the engines idles irratically sometimes like its not getting fuel, but most of all... when I hit a big bump in the road especially going downhill the Reduced Power Light comes on and I lose my engine power.
So I put on a used EGR sensor, which didn't fix the issue. Then I took off and examined the TPS, real dirty and dusting inside the TPS housing, I guess the gasket keeps out he moisture but not dust. But the spring and throttle by wire looked and operated good. Cleaned it up and put it back on....still it didn't fix the issue.
I'm wondering now if I have a lose wiring harness or connection someplace that gets jared when I hit a bump and throws the computer off???
Is anyone out there with similar issues???
thanks,
Brent
if anyone has had this issue and knows how to resolve it please let me know i am just beginning to learn this vehicle any thoughts would help!
thank you!
Rodeos are prone to alternator failure. My guess is the alternators fail due to their position where any valve cover oil leaks leak right into the alternator. At least, this is the impression I get from mine. I recently switched alternators. The junk yard alternator was filthy with dirt. I soaked it with engine cleaner and power washed it. I installed it and the problems were over. The alternator I removed was plugged up with greasy grime.
You may have a weak engine mount that causes strain on the alternator cable under load or some such Murphy condition.
The whole alternator system is crammed into a tight space against the right wheel well. It is reachable from under the vehicle. First, Remove the oil filter brush guard. I had to remove one end of the automatic transmission cooling hoses to get to it. Then, remove the complete bottom adjustable alternator bracket then the top bolt (10 mm for the adjuster, 12 mm for the adjuster nut and the 2 adjuster bracket bolts , 14 mm for the top bolt) The alternator will drop down and move forward. Then, you can remove the battery cable (10 mm) and the harness plug. Try to clean it with degreaser/engine cleaner and a good wash/rinse in water. The whole alternator should be able to tolerate a soak in a bucket of degreaser. Then, you might want to flush it with electrical parts or brake cleaner. Take it to an auto parts store for a bench test before reinstalling it.
When you reinstall the adjuster bracket, thread the adjusting nut bolt to the bottom alternator mount before you tighten the 2 bracket bolts to the engine block.
With the alternator out, I cleaned the harness plug and battery cable too. They were caked with grime.