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I also tested the compressor and it runs with 12 volts to it. I also checked the resistance of the exhaust solenoid and got a constant 24 ohms.
But my compressor does not run. I don't know what to look for to check the Level Sensor at teach wheel - where are these exactly? Thanks.
I have also checked the resistance in the Exhaust Solenoid and have a constant 24 ohms. The Compressor runs with 12 volts put to it. The fuses are good.
I do not know what to look for relative to the Level Sensors at each wheel - where are they and what do they look like? Thanks.
The level sensors are easy to see from the each wheel well while kneeling by the tire, You will spot the bolt that holds them on and the sensors themselves have a linkage. You can disconnect each one and rotate the sensor, you will hear a very faint beep by the compressor if they are working.
I haven't heard a lot of sensors being bad but it's worth the check.
I may before I went through removing each one, just for fun, jumper the blue and white wires from the exhaust selonoid on the truck side of the connector. I may also want to check the continuity of the wires going through the connector just in case one of the wires may not be seated properly in the connector.
See what happens with that.
I am not sure but can photos be posted here I can't seem to do it.
I had another thought if you want to try another couple test.
If you want to try this one first or do the second one first it's up to you, you could jumper the 5 V wire on the pressure switch (orange) directly to the signal wire (green) to see if the compressor kicks on bypassing the pressure switch.
If it does, then..
Inside the exhaust solenoid is a small plunger that when a voltage is applied to the solenoid it activates a magnetic field and moves this plunger. This may be a long shot but the plunger has a small (I think orange) oring and even though you are getting a good ohm reading it's possible that the plunger could be stuck!
This means you would need to cut off the epoxy and get inside the solenoid which only takes a minute if all checks out then put it back together.
Thanks
I purchased new rear shocks and compressor for my 2005 Yukon xl Denali from Arnott. I checked the compressor before I put it on and it checked out fine. I changed out the shocks and compressor and rebuilt the drier unit and plugged everything back in. However, now that it is installed the compressor will not run and could not clear out the error message on the dash. Still says Service ride control. Here is the list that I have done.
Changed relay for the system.
Changed *1 40 amp fuse
Changed 30 amp RTD fuse
unhooked battery for 30 minutes.
Cleared all error with controller.
Rechecked all connections.
Does anyone have any other suggestions?
Thanks
Swearn
As far as "Relay", I have a 2007 Denali it has 3 ALC relays, 2 sitting side-by-side in the fuse box in the engine compartment with the 3rd relay cable-tie to a bundled wires just below and outside of the fuse box. Does your particular year has only 1 replay, or you have identified a bad relay so replaced the one..?
BTW, I believe there is a difference between "Service Suspension System" (compressor and air leak related) and "Service Air Ride Control" (Electronic control function related)... You may check with your local GM Service Department to be sure.
The installation of everything was super easy and the included air dryer rebuild kit was much needed as my original dryer material was very wet. Everything worked fine for about a month and then last week the compressor failed to come on with a heavy load on the the hitch.
When I grounded the light blue wire going to pin 86 of the automatic level control relay (attached to the engine side of the underhood fuse center) the compressor would run. This told me that the problem was that the Suspension Control Module (SCM) was not activating the relay by sending a low (ground) signal from output A10 C2 to pin 86 of the relay coil.
Further investigation discovered the cause which was an open coil circuit (white & blue wires) on the new Arnott exhaust solenoid which is part of the Arnott compressor "kit" assembly. The SCM can detect this open circuit and it will not activate the compressor relay when it detects an open exhaust solenoid coil circuit. However I had no fault messages or indicators displayed on my dashboard.
I read earlier in this thread that the exhaust solenoid coil should normally read about 24 ohms of resistance and that shorting this circuit by temporarily connecting the white and blue wires together would "fool" the SCM into thinking that the exhaust solenoid was functional which would result in the SCM activating the compressor relay.
I tried this with the load on the hitch and just like someone else posted earlier, the compressor would come on only for just a couple of seconds and then stop. Each subsequent off and on cycle of the ignition circuit would trigger another very short activation of the compressor relay.
I am wondering if the non functional exhaust port operation causes some other issue perhaps with the pressure switch that prevents the system from running longer. Does anybody have an opinion on this? I guess that when I get the warranty replacement Arnott compressor / exhaust solenoid valve assembly later this week I will find out.
Thanks to all of you for educating me on the autoride system. Despite the premature failure of the Arnott exhaust solenoid I still highly recommend this company because of the great pricing compared to GM and because of their excellent customer service.
Dave B.
In my case it was a bad (open circuit) exhaust solenoid coil that was causing the computer to not start the compressor.
I would check your exhaust solenoid coil resistance. You should read somewhere around 24 ohms.
Dave
After several months, I started hearing a hollow sound every time I would go over a bump. I did start noticing that my ride was a little bumpier so I took it back to my mechanic.
For the past week, he has been unable to locate the problem. He has check all four shocks which he stated were still good. After reading these posts on the air ride suspension, I realized that I no longer hear the noise the compressor usually makes. Do you think that this is causing the hollow sound noise?
Please help
Mark
It is easy enough to test the system. Simply put a load on the rear of your truck with the ignition on and within a few seconds you should hear the compressor and see the rear of the truck raise.
If the compressor does not run with a load on the rear of the truck you will know how to troubleshoot it by reading the previous pages of this very helpful thread.
Dave
I would recommend speaking with your dealer of choice. If they are unable to find the concerns I would recommend asking them to involve Technical Assistance. I hope this helps.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I used to own a Citreone Xantia when I lived in the UK and they had mineral oil suspension system (Auto leveling) the dampers were Spheres with Nitrogen filled bladders, £100 each back then stupid money... anyway I found a small engineering shop that dismantled them, refilled the Nitrogen bladder (or replaced it ) and re fit the mineral oil and bingo! so I gots to wondering if anyone is looking at re-engineering the original OEM shocks for these big trucks... being this is my only wheels for a long time it has to keep running
Many thanks for the info I'll post if I have any issues
the-doc
They are actually better than new because they use better rubber for the bladders and they have a lifetime warranty. If you need to replace your shocks, going with Arnott is a no brainer.
They also have new (not remanufactured) replacement compressors with a one year warranty for a fraction of the cost from GM. Here is a link to their website.
http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_GMC_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid15_pid96.html
Just called them again directly. Explained scenario again and was given an attitude by the Customer Service rep "Marvin". When I asked for a his boss he claimed he was the boss that makes that decision. I am guessing Adam Arnott might take issue with that. We will see.
I actually needed another suspension replaced on a 2007 Escalade but was waiting to get this one right first. Instead of buying two full suspensions, I will be returning this one.
Very unhappy with whole experience.
Did you have a Service Request number? We can look further into this for you. Please send us an email with that and any other information and we'll assist as best we can.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Another side note, my speedo will randomly stop working and lock on like 140 MPH or on 0 for a whole trip, then work perfect the next day. Annoying...
I bought a new Arnott Compressor OEM, Will repalcing the compressor and air dryer parts associated with the Arnott kit solve my air leak? Or do I have to buy the exhaust solenoid seperately. The bags are not leaking nor is air escaping from the hose. It is just getting dumped overboard. I cant find a parts diagram and the dealer is no help. There is definately an air port (looks like a check valve) that the air is escaping from.
Thanks
Al
Since you purchased yours last summer just call Arnott and ask for a replacement compresser with a new exhaust solenoid since it has a 1 year warranty.
I am fairly sure that this is not a shock or compressor or a ride height sensor issue since the shocks share a common air line so there is no way for one shock to have more air pressure in it than the other one does. Correct?
I am thinking that I simply have a weak spring on the drivers side. Any other ideas?