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http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/2009/June/gmairsuspPDF.pdf
I haven't been able to figure out my issue yet. Service Ride Control on dash.
Replaced rear OEM air shocks with Arnott shocks
Replaced compressor with Arnott Compressor
Stud 1 is ok.
IGN 3 Fuse is ok.
RTD fuse is ok.
Going to bench test the ALC relay next.
If that isn't it, ALC sensors.
If that isn't it, then I'm off to the dealer to have them diagnose it.
I wanted to also mention, my mechanic has Tech II (Snap-On) and it will not clear the Service Ride Control message on Dash. It says it does, but says if it doesn't clear, try it again. Which also fails.
I'm under the impression from all I've read here that once I solve my underlying issue, I won't need to clear the code, it will clear itself. Can others confirm?
1) compressor ran the first few times after install but hasn't been heard in a while. Ive been told this is good b/c it means no leaks. Thoughts? Ride is still much improved.
2) what are front shock options? Arnott only sold the conversion kits and although the Auto ride system has been troublesome, I was not ready to abandon it just yet. Options on front shocks?
Thanks all. Like all the posts I have seen, I think we all love the look and style of our trucks. But as you all are posting, GM turned out a pretty crappy overall product here. Terrible transmission, brake system, and these darn shocks. We need to stick together!
So, question IS: is the suspension system not able to do the job. Is it weak and needs some help, I don't think I have a leak, or compressor issues. Maybe it's just tired? ... Should I look at another air shock,system?
Or, I've been reading about weight distribution hitches, should distribute the tounge weight better to the frame of both the Denali and the trailer, to get to level..
Or both! Any experience with hauling this weight would be helpful... Thanks.
The problem if the pressure sensor is the culprit then i need to buy a new dryer because dealer sells the sensor with dryer together which is bull.... because arnott as you know supplied a rebuild kit for the dryer ,and not to mention they want around 300 $ Cdn .
Sorry i stretched the story long but i am really mad because all this expense and still not operating as it supposed to , :mad:
Please let me know what was your issue if you got around it already
Thanks
Laszlo
now it's cold outside, and i dont hear the compressor coming on at all, but the trailer is not hooked up, however it used to kick on right away. It looks ok, so Im just waiting to hook up, attach the WDH, and head to florida in the warmth in 3 weeks and hope I have a level ride..
I dont answer your question, but if all goes south then I may have to be looking into replacing the shocks also.. One thing I found out, is both the local CGC and Chevy dealer dont know squat about the system. All they know is it's expensive, and would just replace it if it did nto look right, they have no answers to any of your questions.
do keep looking around on this and other forums like you are, i saw some comments about how to avoid the error message when replacing with aftermarket shocks.
My problem is if starts up only when i start the car how i know while i am on the road i am not loosing the air from the shocks and eventually damaging the new shocks ...?
I think i will change the Dryer (because the pressure sensor ) an then I really emptied my ideas.The only thing left the electronic control module for the auto ride but I doubt that is anything wrong with that particular part.
If you have more than 150K in your shocks probably want to think about replacing them because most likely the compressor will suffer the consequences if they are leaking but again if Alc(Level control sensors) are gone then that could be also the reason for the compressor not coming on.
Here in Mississauga/On the winter salty roads responsible for undercarriage problems.I think getting rid off the error message it is the only way to pinpoint the problem first, because by getting rid of it dos not fix the sytem and as in a previous post mentioned if problem fixed the message will clear itself(hopefully ) Arnott shocks come with sensors to avoid dashboard errors and is only the front what is disabling the front Alc the rear ones are re-manufactured originals.
I ended up punting and going to the dealer and having them scan the system to see why the "service ride control" message persisted after replacing the rear shocks and compressor (Arnott shocks and compressor).
The tech at (Poway GMC in Escondido CA) didn't think too highly of the Arnott compressor* and said the resistance was reading incorrect value and was the problem. The sales guy advised me that they had a replacement compressor and would fix for ~$700. I kindly declined and contacted Arnott. They were awesome and sent me another compressor from Los Angeles, so I got it much quicker than if it were coming from CA.
Took the replacement compressor from Arnott to my mechanic and he swapped it in less than 15 minutes.
Turned on the car and the compressor kicked on and the service ride control message was gone.
However, I've returned to this thread because my service ride control message is back (5 months have passed) and I needed to revisit the troubleshooting steps. I suspect it's the compressor, but I'm not certain. I have continuity across the exhaust solenoid, but it Ohms out at 19 ohms steady not 24.
If I apply power to the compressor, it runs, but I removed the compressor before trying to jumper the blue and white wires. Going to try that next.
Have to say that I really am beginning to dislike this system. Crazy expensive and a PITA to troubleshoot.
I'll report back on what fixes my issue this time. Going to start by contacting Arnott and see what they say.
*EDIT - I thought I'd add that I think the Poway GMC tech's opinion of the Arnott compressor was absurd. Side by side, they look to comparable and why would I pay $600 for an OEM compressor when the Arnott is $179 and has a 1 year warranty?
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-escalade-ext-esv-forum-1999/142916- - -answer-1million-question-where-air-ride.html
Page 10 of the thread photos of exhaust solenoid and broken wire... (Props to poster SK7 of the Cadillac Forum who posted these photos.)
I learned from this other thread better way to remove the compressor is avoiding the torx bolts that get crazy rusted (mine were) and just loosen the 3 13mm bolts and move the entire compressor assembly cage up and out.
But....thinking more about it...the shock is a normal shock along with the air bladder, right? Can they really rebuild the shock part? Or are they just putting a new air bladder on and old shock?
What does everyone do for the front shocks? Monroe?
Do I do Arnott for rear (warranty) and Monroe for front (price)?
Have 2004 Yukon Denali Xl.
Compressor was changed at dealer a couple years ago.
The car suspension has been working correctly, had a dead battery the other day.
Fully charged, all works good, after sitting overnight dead again. Installed new battery same thing.
Dead battery after sitting overnight.
Took to our regular dealer spent 2 days chasing what is still running on the car, no luck.
Took to Gm dealer and spent $ 200.00 same result they want more $$$$ to keep searching.
I spent an hour yesterday, battery was dead, hooked up charger and can hear notice pulsing under car, this cycles over and over about every 5 to 10 seconds and battery charger needle flickers at the same time. Measure about 4v at the negative battery cable at this time.
The first thing is there is a click at the air compressor behind the left rear wheel, then there is a pulse from the round cylinder under drivers seat that has multiple hydraulic lines connected then the relay on the wheel well next to the fuse box clicks. If I disconnect the electrical junction under the round cylinder under drivers seat this all stops, but all the warning lights on the dash are on when you start the car.
All this is happening which the ignition off.
Help!
Is there a way to manual jump the rear air motor to confirm it's working ok? and relays that i need to check, if they are bad?
Thank you.
Aside of that I like my 05 Denali, but my airbag light is on, sounds like more money.. I have 95,000 miles on it.
Anyone know if I should get a compressor from Arnott.
Many times when the compressor will not run it is actually caused by the exhaust solenoid coil being open. The computer looks at the resistance of the exhaust solenoid coil and if it sees an open circuit it will not energize the compressor relay.
Look at post #216 for pictures.
from Arnott for my 2005 Denali, went in smoothly.. but since the compressor
was not working, did little good or change.. Just purchased the compressor
from them, had my mechanic install, and all good now.. (i think, have to
test out, but looks lto be finally working) the compressor was just under
$200, I'm impressed, compared to the dealer replacement cost I was quoted..
(2/3 less after all said and done) no error messages, that were present
before replacement of the compressor. I have 100k on my rig.. And I pull a
14' 7500lb rated trailer, loaded.. like this truck. I'm replacing only the
back shocks and compressor.
You say the rear shocks have ripped bladders? Call Arnott to replace. Or go to their website. Easy Easy Easy to swap them out and half the price of dealer.
If the rear shocks have ripped bladders and the compressor wasn't disconnected, I'd bet it is also toast. It will just run and run and run and burn itself up if the system leaks.
Arnott sell the rear shocks and compressor in a kit on eBay. That's what I bought.
OH, I forgot to mention - I HATE THIS SYSTEM
I've wasted so much time and money troubleshooting it. I got mine working and the wiring harness grounded out, which I've fixed, but it still won't come one. Back to the dealer I go.
I wanted to chime in and share my recent experience with the dreaded “service Auto ride” warning on my 2001 Denali. My apologies in advance for the long story but hopefully it will help someone out
The light started intermittently coming on last week and then finally stayed on. When I turned the key the compressor would start up for a few seconds and then stop. After inspecting the rear shocks I found that the Driver’s side shock air bladder had a leak. This explained why I was always hearing the compressor intermittently kick on for the last few months. I ended up installing Monroe 40034 shocks which are direct replacements. Found the best price at Amazon Installed the new rear shocks and powered up the truck. Compressor kicked on / filled the shocks. Cool! Problem fixed! Next startup the light was back on. Crap!!! Pulled the compressor and powered it up on the bench. Checked the exhaust solenoid which was working but the pressure switch was questionable. Searched all over the internet for just the pressure switch but was unable to find one. Figured I might as well replace the compressor as it looked pretty hammered (Denali is @ 117K). Plus it had been working overtime for the past few months due to the leaking shock. Ended up going with the Dorman 949-000 (ordered from Amazon). Installed the new compressor and powered up. Compressor kicked on / shocks filled / no auto ride light. Cool! Issue fixed!!! Not so fast Two startups later the light was back on. So now I’m about ready to call in a priest to perform an exorcism!!! Seriously though Now It’s time to head to the dealer to pull the codes (sure wish I could afford a Tec II scanner) Luckily the service tech was willing to hook up their scanner and give me the codes at no charge. Code history showed C0711 (Level control air pressure sensor circuit) and C0660 (Level Control Valve circuit) exhaust solenoid). The new compressor had fixed those issues Current active code was C0575 (left front Sol. Circuit). Got the truck back home and took a good look at the connector on the front left shock. I found that the grounding contacts were corroded. Cleaned them up and reseated the connector. Powered up and no Auto ride light! So far it has not returned!!! If it does I will order the new AC Delco PT 1594 connectors from Amazon.
Thanks for taking the time to read this!
Now I have not actually gone and picked up my car yet. I've only talked with the desk girl who relays the messages. I found this page from skimming over posts here https://www.arnottindustries.com/part_GMC_yid15_pid96.html.
I do not know a thing about air ride suspension. I don't even know what I have on this truck because I've never had reason to look. Do these things wear out over time? I know regular shocks get replaced sometimes.
The only thing I've ever noticed about the suspension is that going over a speed bump is rough. You come down on the other side of that speed bump like the rear is filled with cement. I think it rides fine. My husband thinks it's a bumpy ride, but I tell him he is too used to driving those low sporty high dollar cars work gives him lol.
any advice on the suspension/shocks for this truck would be great. thanks.
If you jump the relay contacts and the compressor runs then something is keeping the relay from being energized by the computer.
My guess is that it is an open exhaust solenoid coil circuit. This is a common cause.
Hi... I recently purchased a 2004 Yukon Denali. After purchasing the truck I noticed the rear Air-ride shocks where shot and the compressor didn't seem to run. I researched online and ran upon a Monroe 90012 conversion kit. Figuring I didn't have anything to loose so I purchased the kit. The kit was easy to install even with the Autoride interface modules. That's right NO service suspension displayed on the dash anymore. I tested the factory compressor and found the main power fuse was shot. After replacing the fuse the compressor worked great. The rear shocks even had the same fittings a the factory shocks so connecting them was a dream. The vehicle drives great and levels when loaded. This was a very inexpensive fix at less than $150.00 with new shocks on all 4 corners.
Monroe link:
http://catalog.monroe.com/catalogPart/monroePartSearchFromECatalog.do?partKey=832527&partNumber=90012&catalogKey=580&methodName=initialiseMonroe&catalogCode=monroe&locale=EN&loadStatus=ACTIVE
Tested Relay by jumping 85w/86, 87 to ground & 30 to 12V
sounds so wrong. 30 to 87 is the open circuit that closes when 12v is applied across 85 & 86! hense the click sound!
Here is my story.
Bought a 2004 Denali xl with 115K miles, in dec 2011. A few months the compressor stopped working. Replaced the compressor and the suspension message started and compressor still not working.
Too it to the dealer who said the dryer was clogged and total bill would be $1100. I then took it to a junk yard and a mechanic there found the problem under my fuse box. Cost $200.
Worked for two years (now 150K miles) and again, the check message is on. There is a leak and the compressor died from running constantly. Replaced with a working used compressor. Nothing works. Meanwhile my rear two bags have been damaged. I will replace with Arnotts but first I want to make sure the compressor comes on and then I will remove the fuse until the new shocks arrive.
Compressor bench OK
All three fuses are OK
The Relay clicks when 12v applied to 85 & 86
Questions are as follows?
TO check the solenoid, the compressor has to be connected and power has to be on?
Test the cables on the vehicle side or the compressor side?
Honestly, with so many people having the same issues, can't someone please make a YouTube video showing just what to test and how.
Thanks in advance! Wow I am the first poster on this thread in 2014!
.
I have a 2002 Denali (the original owner) that I changed the shocks out on in July of 2010 with a set of Arnott's. I don't have the part number any longer but it included the device that you attached to the frame next to the shock to fool the auto dampening system. The description from my original receipt is "GMC Air Suspension Parts - Yukon XL 1500 - 2000-2006 (All models w/ Autoride *including Denali*) - New Bilstein/Arnott Rear Air Shock Kit (pair)". Anyway, a couple months ago the "service ride control" light started coming on intermittently and steadily began to stay on all the time. I finally took the truck into the local dealer who told me I needed to replace the right rear shock as it had gone bad. Knowing that the original shocks were no longer on the vehicle, I doubted the shock was bad and just took the truck home. Today I got on Arnott's web site and had a live chat session describing my issue, and asked if it was possible that device could have gone bad. The Arnott agent took my phone number and had a tech call me within a few minutes. After reiterating my story, the tech asked for my original receipt, which happened to be in my email so I gave him the order number. The only other thing he needed was the code received by the dealership when testing the system (which was a C0590), evidently indicating that the right rear shock wasn't talking back to the auto-ride system. Once given that code, the tech confirmed my address and said the only other thing he needed was a picture of the device harness, because there were actually 3 different ones. I'll be sending that to him in an email tonight and he will in turn be sending me a replacement, free of charge! I'll definitely be doing with business with Arnott again the next time I need anything they can provide. A note: the lifetime warranty is only good for the original purchaser, which was the reason I'm sure for needing the original order information.
Hope someone finds this early in their search for a way to fix the same type of issue they may be having.