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Comments
-Paul
This is easier to do with the top down or off. The seat is not easy to handle by yourself, try to get someone to help.
Terry
Tried to start the Jeep and it won't fire. It turns over but won't fire. First thought is the battery is dead so tried to jump it and still won't fire. Replaced the battery with a fully charged one and it still won't fire. I have a check engine light on so I check the OBD code...P0340 Camshaft position sensor error. Disconnected the battery for about 20min, pulled the sensor blew dry it, thinking I got it wet when spraying under the Jeep. Put it back in connected the battery, cranked up the Jeep and it still won’t fire. No engine light now...ran the diag, no error code now. Replaced the camshaft sensor with a working one and still no fire.
Reading up in other forums it looks like the Crankshaft position sensor maybe bad as well. Replaced that one and same issue. Checked fuses, relays and voltages...everything looks good. up. Fuel pump is working. Checked coil rail and I'm not getting a spark. Checked the voltage on the coil connector and I'm getting the necessary 12v but it only lasts for about a second before it disappears. This leads me to the PCM not working. Tested my PCM and it works...how did I test it, my neighbor has a 2003 Jeep, plugged it into his jeep and it fired right up. Guess its back to the sensors. Still have a few more to tests out like the: ECT IAT MAP TPS.
Any help would much appreciate. Not at a mechanic at all other then able to change the oil/plugs/and filters. Thanks in advance for any help!
1. Mud
2. Water
3. Rough run/won't start.
Had problems like that too. Replaced the Throttle position sensor in 10 minutes after buying one at Autozone for 53.00. Non-issue since.
-Paul
That was next on the list as well. Gonna give it a shot and let u know. Thanks!
I just bought another jeep wrangler after having sold my 98 wrangler a year ago...guess i couldn't live without them. Either way I'm in pretty cold weather (around 10 degrees at night) and heat is necessary. So far I haven't been impressed. I'll go outside in the morning and start her up on low for about 10 minutes, still as cold as anything...I start driving and after about 20 more minutes I can feel heat, it's just barely being pushed out amongst a lot of cold air.
I took it back to the dealer and they ran some tests saying there was about a hundred degree difference between the core and the output which was bad, they flushed everything and said they fixed the problem. But I have yet to notice any difference. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...
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Are you goin' ta use the winch to reel 'em in or just go low-lock and back up real fast? Just a thought, if your not using a winch it might be better to mount the rods on the back bumper so you have a wide selection of gears.
Post some pics of the Big Cats later...?
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/6300/l1f2e8cf764faf96950f255ys1.jpg
2006 jeep Wrangler X
carbon build up on valves. TICK TICK TICK! still ticking anyone have any sugg. :mad:
Getting to the motor is VERY easy. Lift hood. Remove all 7 or so small screws holding the cowl cover on (may have to peel back a bit of rubber from the front of the cowl to see the screws).
-Paul
If you wheel offroad, forget slotted/drilled rotors. That will just be a home for mud. Another option would be to forget the OEM rotors and pads and just go aftermarket. Better rotors and pads will do a couple of things: provide better heat dissipation and provide better stopping (if you get decent stuff). The cool thing is that if you do it yourself, it will still be cheaper than dealer service (unless under warranty).
The problems I've heard about Jeep rotors, ESPECIALLY the 1999-2004 WJ Grand Cherokees (which I owned), is that the calipers are designed in such a way that they don't allow for effective heat dissipation.
A company called Vanco has marketed a braking solution for TJ's that I believe uses a Ford dual piston caliper that better dissipates the heat. but it also replaces the knuckle with a stronger design to stop flex under hard braking with larger tires, and uses a slightly bigger rotor. However, this kit is NOT cheap and really recommended for TJ's with larger tires (33's and up).
So, I would recommend aftermarket rotors and pads and see what that gets you.
-Paul
-Paul
It is a 2005 and probably still under warranty, have you had them look at it?
Soft top? Hard top? We talking about the rear window or the rear windows on the sides of the Jeep?
-Paul
any ideas?
i started using a different type and no more warped rotors... this was several years ago though... i've changed vehicles since... no problems yet with the new one...
i forgot and didn't explain myself well, the reason i mentioned pulling the 5th wheeler, was that the braking is pretty tuff, even with the electric brake system... and the added weight was heating up the pads and rotors, especially over mountains, even if i tried to take it easy and gear down...
the metallic type brakes were just too hard on the rotors... once i changed to regulars, it went away...
Engine harness to work with dashes/emissions stuff
Exhaust manifold
Transmission
driveshaft connections/yokes
Possibly the transfer case
Possibly rear axle to handle difference in torque (or at least modify the D35 there now).
Probably more stuff, but you'd be better off going with an I6 4.0 from another Jeep or just going with a SBC (small block chevy) engine as those conversions are MUCH more common and easier to find documentation on.
-Paul
As for why it is hard to shift, your t-case is now further away from your body, which changes the angles for the shift lever. Most likely your console cover is blocking it from doing a full shift. Think of it: when you shift your gear, the knob goes 'further' than the lower portions, but that same concept applies to the rest of the shift stick too. Since the pivot point of the shifter (the transmission itself) is lower, the net effect is that you are seemingly having to throw the shifter 'further' forward and something is getting in the way.
You can adjust the linkage by getting a transmission linkage kit from an aftermarket manufacturer like Skyjacker and some others. Personally, I'd spend that $$ on the body and motor lift. You get more room for offroad clearances, you raise the oilpan up a bit to get it out of the rocks and such a bit, AND you solve your transmission issues.
-Paul
I visually checked all the fuses they seem intact, can they be bad and not show it, how did you fix your problem ?? please help I use my Jeep for my main transportation and I work in the middle of nowhere
Thanks anyone
Have you offroaded it recently or gotten the engine area wet/soaked either through a huge puddle or cleaning the engine?
-Paul
I'd start with Autozone and see if it is still throwing codes. They can analyze em and tell you what is up. Hopefully it'll point to a bad sensor and relieve your problems. It MAY be the Throttle Position sensor, but it could also be an O2 sensor. Bad sensors make these newer cars get all wacky.
-Paul
MaClair