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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    To what extent are you wanting to take em off?

    The 2 screws on the underside of the mirror will let you remove it from the arm. Want to take the glass out? You'd probably be better off just masking it with painter's tape and newspaper.

    Other than that, there really isn't much to take apart.

    -Paul
  • juliesjeepjuliesjeep Member Posts: 3
    I just had the same thing happen to me on my '02! I replaced a fuse that blew right away. Anyone have any advice yet? Any help would be greatly appreciated. :)
  • doerundoerun Member Posts: 1
    This Jeep only leaks(pours) on the passenger side between the light and the end of the dash. It only leaks when driving and of course raining. When I slow down and stop it stops. Used water hose and high pressure on all areas of the front of jeep and windshield door frame wipers on and off. Help
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    It SOUNDS like it could be one of two things:

    Check for a hose on the firewall, kinda below the battery. There is a 1" or so pipe coming off and it is meant to be used for condensation removal. You need a J-tube to point down. During driving, this can blow back into the TJ onto the passenger floor area.

    Another option is that the spongy gasket that surrounds the heater core is saturated and letting water in. This is the problem I have. If you remove the battery, you can see the heater core (kinda roundish). if you reach in there with your finger, you'll feel the gasket stuff. Building up a 'wall' of silicon to prevent water from standing there at the bottom of that area will help keep water out of there. Also, you can spray some scotch-guard on the gasket to help repel the water a bit better. If you want to see where it is coming in, run some water on the outside of the Jeep and look under the carpet up on the 'floor' that runs up to the firewall. You should see a stream coming from that rounded area that is the heater core. I used baby powder on the floor to trace the water patch to confirm this.

    It is also possible that your drains in your cowl area are clogged. Remove the cowl with a Phillips screwdriver (some screws are under the rubber trim for the hood) and make sure all debris is out of that area.

    If I can find a pic of that J-tube thing I'll post it up to make it clearer.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Here is a pic... check this link.

    http://www.stu-offroad.com/body/ac/acleak-1.htm

    There is a part you can get from the Jeep dealership for a couple of bucks, but a PVC elbow joint and some glue would work just as well.

    Call your dealership and they can give you the P/N for it. Just tell em you need the J-tube to keep A/C condensation from coming in.

    If you do that, check your cowl drains for debris, and silicon up that spongy gasket beneath the battery around the heater core, you should be pretty good.

    -Paul
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    How do you change the clutch fluid on a TJ? I know how to bleed a clutch and I've done it before on my wife's Miata, but I don't know where the reservoir and bleed valves are on my '98 Sport.
  • doplee1doplee1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Yesterday I dropped my wedding ring while at a light. I didn't see where it landed but I suspect it fell into the 4x4 gear box which appears to be part of the console. Does anyone know how I can remove the console (or just the 4x4 gear box) so I can see if my ring is there? BTW, wife is taking it well...considering

    Thanks in advance
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If you have the mini console:

    (1) Move the seats to the full rearward position.
    (2) Grasp shift handle (auto trans only) and firmly pull upward to remove.
    (3) Using a small flat blade, pry up shift indicator bezel, disengage bezel lamp connector and remove bezel (auto trans only).
    (4) Using a trim stick, pry up shift boot and remove (manual trans only).
    (5) Remove the trim disc from the bottom of the cup holder.
    (6) Remove the bolts attaching the console to the floor pan.
    (7) Shift transfer case to four low position.
    (8) Lift the console upward and shift transmission to L (2nd gear for man. trans.).
    (9) Remove console through the passenger door.

    If you have the full console:
    (1) Move the seats to the full rearward position.
    (2) Move the passenger seat in the full recline position.
    (3) Grasp shift handle (auto trans only) and firmly pull upward to remove.
    (4) Using a small flat blade, pry up shift indicator bezel, disengage bezel lamp connector and remove bezel (auto trans only).
    (5) Using a trim stick, pry up shift boot and remove (manual trans only).
    (6) Remove the bolts attaching the console to the floor pan.
    (7) Shift transfer case to four low position.
    (8) Engage parking brake.
    (9) Lift the console upward and rotate to remove.

    Be aware that there ARE holes to the outside under there. Not sure how well covered up they are, but those levers (t-case and shifter) leave the vehicle.

    Hope you find your ring.

    -Paul
  • sndessaintsndessaint Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2000 Jeep Wrangler and would like to replace all the fender flares. The issue that i'm having is that old fender flares will not come off because the bolts that hold the fender flares to the body just spin with the hole that they are in. I need to take them off because they are in bad shape but do not want to damage the body in the process. any ideas would greatly appreaciated.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    2 Options.

    1. You can use some needlenose pliers to kinda pull the bolt out a bit so the fastener on the backside (that you can't reach) is against the sheet metal and less likely to spin. I've done this on my back flares successfully.

    2. Use a reciprocating saw (sawzall) and just cut the bolt.

    I've found if you peel back the wheel well liner you can get access to nearly every bolt fastener.

    -Paul
  • bilbo3bilbo3 Member Posts: 2
    I had a turn signal that also went out. I tried replacing the bulb but that didn't help. I had to replace a module between the front turn signal bulb and the connector. It seemed to have a short that was blowing the fuse for the dashboard lights and the rear parking lights. I guess they used the same wiring and were effecting each other. With that module replaced and the fuse replaced I've been good for about two weeks now...
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Believe it or not, I was driving my 2000 TJ last night and the dash lights went out. I don't have any lights except headlights and brake lights.
    Also, when I put on the left turn signal, it blinks fast and all the turn indicator lights blink except the front parking light. Right turn is ok.

    What is the "module" you replaced?

    Terry
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    The fast blink is indicative of a bulb being out. The lower resistance sets the relay to fast blink.

    Same effect if you put in LED lighting in any corner. A new relay is required to return blinks to normal rate.

    For dash lights only being out, are your speedometer and tach working or is it EVERYTHING out? May be as simple as removing the dash cluster, cleaning the contacts and bending the pins a tiny bit. Dielectric grease can help too to ensure a good connection free from corrosion.

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Tuff little Jeeps are now cursed with fragile Dodge parts.
    Burn the TJ down...get a CJ...Life can still be good.
  • thetraveler62thetraveler62 Member Posts: 1
    Check your owner's manual. I have a 2006 TJ and the reservoir is on the drivers side firewall beside the brake master cylinder but it is a sealed unit, you can't change the fluid.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    O.K. I got it fixed. Using bilbo3's info I found the parking light fuse blown. Went to the left front parking light and found the "module" he was talking about. It is the bulb holder which mounts in the reflector. It had rusrted over on the inside and shorted out. Went to local AutoZone (figured they would be cheaper than dealer). They had one in stock for Ford which is exactly like the Jeep one except for the wiring connector. Bought it. Two minutes of modification with a file made it work perfectly.

    Thanks bilbo3. :)

    Terry
  • juliesjeepjuliesjeep Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so much for the additional info Terry!I would love to be able to drive after dark again w/o paying an arm & leg to a dealership! ;)
  • bolden88bolden88 Member Posts: 4
    I had this happen on my 97. Scary as hell. Sounds like you have broken belts in the tires. A set of new tires and you will be all set..
  • saharastevesaharasteve Member Posts: 15
    Has anyone else had a problem with the speedometer and tach going out for a little while and then start working again? The airbag light also comes on when this happens. Any suggestions?
  • juliesjeepjuliesjeep Member Posts: 3
    Hi! I had the same thing happen on my '02 last year. It was the steering column damper. It wasn't a real expensive repair maybe $100, but it's been fine since. Good luck!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Sounds like your dash pins that connect the cluster to the rest of the Jeep may be loose. Remove cluster (easy to do), clean the pins, give them a slight bend so they are all straight, use some dielectric grease to keep the connections clean and solid, and you should be good to go.

    -Paul
  • sadworldsadworld Member Posts: 4
    Question for all you gurus. I have an 06 LJ Auto with only 8000 miles on it. Only some dirt roads and pavement - no serious offroading so far. About 2 months ago it started to *snap* or *pop* about 80% of the time when I started to move after coming to a complete stop. Stop signs, traffic lights, etc. It's a single loud *crack* that I can sometimes feel in the gas pedal. It makes some pedestrians turn their heads. It does not seem to matter what the temperature is outside, of the engine, or if I'm on the level or an incline - which drives me crazy that I can't get a pattern to the 20% of the time it doesn't do it. It does not seem to do this when coming out of park. Anyone else have this happen? It does not seem to be related to the brake system, and the auto tranny seems to be working fine.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    2006 JEEP WRANGLER Recall ID from NHTSA: 05V460000

    Not sure if this has anything to do with it but thought I would mention it anyway.

    Auto Recall Date: 20051006
    Vehicle Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
    Estimated Vehicles Affected: 256409
    2006 JEEP WRANGLER Defect Summary:
    ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, SPORT UTILITY AND PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 42RLE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS, THE CUP PLUG THAT RETAINS THE PARK PAWL ANCHOR SHAFT MAY BE IMPROPERLY INSTALLED. IF THE SHAFT MOVES OUT OF POSITION, THE VEHICLE MAY NOT BE ABLE TO ACHIEVE 'PARK' POSITION.
    Defect Consequence:
    IF THIS OCCURS AND THE PARKING BRAKE IS NOT APPLIED, THE VEHICLE MAY ROLL AWAY AND CAUSE A CRASH WITHOUT WARNING.
    Remedy:
    DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE TRANSMISSIONS AND INSTALL A BRACKET TO ENSURE THE PARK PAWL ANCHOR SHAFT IS RETAINED IN THE PROPER POSITION. THE RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 28, 2005. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.
    Notes: DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORPORATION, E14

    2
  • sadworldsadworld Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the input. I saw that recall before I bought the Jeep and confirmed it had already been applied before I took it off the lot. I appreciate the thought though. I

    need to get it inspected in May (I live in PA), so I guess I can let the dealership say "I dunno what it is"... *grin*
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Perhaps try to recreate it in reverse?

    To me it sounds light it MIGHT be something with a u-joint. Do you hear any chirping while driving? Does it do anything in turns, or just from a stop?

    -Paul
  • jvaczyjvaczy Member Posts: 1
    We own a 2006 Jeep Wrangler X. The check engine light came on and my husband took it to Autozone to diagnose it because they can get the code. It turns out it had something to do with the gas cap. It was reset. It came on again and Chrysler Jeep in Raynham, MA said it was probably the gas cap to refuel and tighten the gas cap and it should go away. It went away for one fill. It is now back on and hasn't gone away. We took it in for warranty service. It was the gas cap which is a known issue. I forget the code. In any event, they want to charge us $89.00 because my husband has a performance chip in the vehicle. I have the warranty that states that it only isn't covered if the performance or racing part is considered to be the cause of the issue, which it is not. Anybody have a suggestion on how to fight this. We have to pick up the jeep today. Thanks,

    Judy
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    My 2006 Jeep Wrangler sometimes gets wet on the passenger side floor. I have never used the air conditioning. Could this still be my problem? Wouldn't it be covered by warranty?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Not likely.

    I used a BUNCH of RTV (the stuff you seal up the differentials with) and did the following:

    After having my passenger's side floorboard wet AGAIN after a bout of rain, I decided I'd had enough.

    I had previously attempted to stop it, but no go. Here's what I did. First off, remember that I have a 97 TJ and the cowl on those has a 'fake' vent over the passenger side.

    1. I removed the cowl by removing the 7 or so screws that hold it on. Then remove the wiper blade arms. I then RTV'd the underside of THAT to ensure water wasn't falling into the HVAC intake. If you don't have a 97, this is not required. But you will STILL need to remove the cowl cover.

    2. I then RTV'd around the HVAC intake itself. Looks like the previous owner had tried this and not done a good job, so I removed the silicon stuff and applied a liberal amount of RTV, ensuring there were no gaps, similar to how you'd apply caulk around joints in a shower or tub. I've seen covers you can put over this, and may consider that if it leaks again.

    image

    3. I removed the battery and battery tray so I could get to the heater core area behind the battery. I removed my previous attempt where I used silicon and it was not holding up well at all. I cleared that off using a painter's tool, then went to town on the RTV. I could see the spongy gasket material that was getting saturated. I built up the area by the sponge and proceeded to RTV that entire area, including running up the side of the heater core/blower area so NO water would get in.

    image

    If you look closely, you'll see where that gap in the metal had been and where the gasket was showing. I built it up a bit more after this pic and now water will not collect there, and even if it DID, there'd be no way for it to get in.

    After the rain we had last week, I checked it out and it was totally dry. :)

    I also have the A/C drain tube installed, in case people wanted to see that. You don't use the A/C that much, and this may already be in place, but worth it if it is not there currently - so when you DO use the A/C, it is good to go.

    image

    So if you are getting wet floorboards, doing this may not totally solve your problem (windows/doors, windshield leaks, etc), but it will definitely stop one avenue of water.

    -Paul
  • sandmcsandmc Member Posts: 1
    Air will blow on defrost and on feet, but will not blow air to the face (either fresh or A/C). When moving the lever to the face position, it begins to make a higher pitched whine sound, and continues to blow through the defrost vents. I am not sure if I am losing vacuum or if there is something that is hanging up the damper. Any ideas?
  • sadworldsadworld Member Posts: 4
    Hmmm. No chirping while driving, and I haven't noticed anything when turning, but I'll listen closer now. I only have the popping when leaving from a stop - and it was still doing it this morning. Thanks for the thought. I'll dig around on some other posts out there for u-joint problems and see if anyone else is describing my problem.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    You may also want to check your transmission mounts on your cross member/skid plate. If it is broken, you may have to replace it. Fortunately it IS something you can do yourself as long as you have a floor jack to hold the transmission up once you remove the skid plate. I THINK it is only about $30.00 for the OEM part...

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Sounds like the door that directs flow is not working properly. I know on Grand Cherokee's it is called a blend door, and I THINK it is the same thing on the TJ's.

    -Paul
  • tnc2008tnc2008 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 wrangler 4.0 5 sp. I was sitting in traffic today and it died on me. Tried to start it back would not start. Pushed it into a parking lot got in it and it started right up, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    thank you
  • skimsurfskimsurf Member Posts: 6
    I need to know what, if any sequence to remove a transmission from a 94 wrangler 2.5l 5 speed. I know I got about 6-7 bolts after I get through the skid plate, but after that Im lost. Never done any drive train work, I just need to know if there is a sequence in the bolts to take out so I dont damage anything else while I take this on. I plan on doing this tomorrow, well, today the 2nd of april, so the quicker the response the better. Get back to me ASAP. Thanks!
  • skimsurfskimsurf Member Posts: 6
    Im bettin starter. I got a 94 and if its anything like mine the starter is built into the flywheel. Did, it make a squeal when it happened? It may have just stopped up with the fly wheel, and pushing it just broke it lose. Just a guess, but it happened to me last year, and mine did that but didnt start back up, and I had to replace the starter, look into it. peace.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I'd get it to AutoZone and have any codes read. It sounds like an idle sensor or throttle sensor if I had to make a guess. Both are pretty easy to change. I'd also check your plugs/wires/etc and see about doing a tune up if it has been a while.

    -Paul
  • tnc2008tnc2008 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 99 jeep wrangler a few months ago and it had been doing great till it died on me in traffic and i had to push it into a parking lot. When i got it there i got in it and started right up. I heard maybe it could be a crankshaft position sensor. A few days before this happened my idle started acting up. It would idle up and down from about 700 to 1300 rpms. None of this started untill it started getting a little warmer outside.
    thanks
  • gfanelligfanelli Member Posts: 1
    For some reason my blower only blows air out of the vents for the defroster, air will not come out of the vents on the dash board regardless of what setting the control switch is set on. Is there anyone who can give me some advise on what to check ??
    Thanks
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    They are called blend doors and regulate the flow of air to the various vents. Fairly common on Jeeps, esp the Grand Cherokees (WJ's) but not uncommon on TJ's.

    -Paul
  • bolden88bolden88 Member Posts: 4
    Just went through this with my 04. The starter was seized just enough not to start on it's own power. Given the extra power with a jump it would start. Eventually it wouldn't even start with a jump.. Replaced the starter and it has been fine since... 10 minutes to replace the starter. It is easily accessable from under the vehicle. $95.- for a new one.....
  • racepicsracepics Member Posts: 1
    A friend has a problem with momentary juice to coil lasts about 5sec then no power
    to coil any ideas?
  • hmaxhmax Member Posts: 1
    have a leak down by the bottom hose- replaced hose and still leaking - does any body have an idea - seem to be leaking fom engine - help 97 4 cyl
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    Thanks for your answer, Jeeper3, I have a 2005 X model and yesterday was super hot here in So Calif and the A/c did exactly like you described - all the cold air came out of the defroster. I found th vaccum hose on the intake maiifold had come off. I have 2 questions for anyone who can help: 1) the end of the vavccum hose that fits over the intake maniforld fitting is extremely loose fitting. Should it be tight? It appears to be holding but I was considering putting a tywrap on it but maybe it is supposed to be loose?? 2) there was a very slight amount of oil on the end of the hose and the intake maifold fitting- I cleaned it off but is this normal? The jeep has 7000 miles. Thanks again Jeeper3 and everyone
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    Hi Please check my message # 1238. It was a vaccum hose that fell of the right side of the engine on the intake manifod. I dont know why but it is an easy fix. Good luck
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    1: It shouldn't be loose. Sounds like a clamp is missing, rather than a ty-wrap, if it's the vacuum hose to the brake booster that you're referring to.. Go to a Jeep dealer and have a look under the hood of a similar model.

    2: Yes, a slight amount of oil is normal
  • sflajeepsflajeep Member Posts: 2
    I love my 2003 Jeep Wrangler I just bought it a few months back to replace a BMW. The weather down here in Florida alows me to drive around with the top down most of the time. Now the problem seems to be the same as others, when I turn on the a/c the cold air is blowing out of the defrost vents. it does not matter what function, heat, defrost, or a/c it all blows out the defrost vents.
    what should I be looking for? are there any manuals on line that I can refferance?
    Thanks
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    Hi
    I think your problem is exactly the same as my 05 Wrangler X . I assume you have a 6 cylinder (the 4 cylinder may be a bit different) - open the hood and look at the top right side of the engine. There is an intake manifold that is long and runs parallel to the engine valve cover. About 1/2 way along the intake manifold is a small fitting where a small hose fits on. My guess is the hose has slipped off the fitting. This happened to me and I just cleaned the hose off and reseated the hose over the fitting. Mine is real loose fitting so if it falls of again I will secure it with a Ty-wrap. This hose is small (around 3/8") and gose up from the intake mainfold and around the rear of the engine. This totally solved my problem and I am sure your a/c will be good as new!
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    Hi Mac

    This hose is very small, unlike the brake booster hose, and fits wery loosely. It dosent seem to be deterioriated at all. I will take your suggestion and see how these are secured on another jeep. thanks for your input
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    Hi, I had a 97 Wrangler Sport with the same problem. The 97's had horizontal sliders for the HVAC controls and the plastic clip on the the mpush/pull cable and the clip came off and the xcontrol operated but the cable did nothing.. I remember it was easy to clip back on and that should solve your problem
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    of where this vacuum hose is? I'd just like to check mine. I'm curious now. :)

    -Paul
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