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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    This is a problem early model TJs.

    The search function on this site works really well.

    Try searching "guages don't work" or "Dash goes out" or something like that.

    You will probably find 100+ posts. There is a pretty easy fix. Some of the posts are more detailed than others.

    Terry
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Basically, remove gauge cluster (VERY easy), then clean the contacts with isopropyl alcohol, then bend the contacts ever so slightly to ensure a good contact.

    Before reassembling, coat with dielectric grease for a good solid connection.

    -Paul
  • cordovamikecordovamike Member Posts: 1
    2004 Wrangler, 75k miles. Running fine, stopped for 10 minutes got back in and will not start, electrical is dead. Gauges freak out, windshield wipers start really slow, starter won't turn over. Few minutes later wipers stop but system goes dead when you turn the key. Any suggestions where to start?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Either the battery has failed or is depleted due to a charging issue, or it could be a bad battery connection or cable.
  • janzalojanzalo Member Posts: 1
    On my 97 tj when I apply the brake the fuse blows for my brake lights all other lights work fine... Where do I start?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Have you by chance installed anything (including body armor like rock rails)? Sounds like you have a short in your brake circuit. A friend had this EXACT issue and it turns out he cut his brake wires as he drilled holes for his rocker rails. Drill bit broke and was stuck between the wires.

    Apply brake - ZAP! No lights.

    -Paul
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    i've had my eye one a set of rims for a couple of years now, and with the assistance of the economic stimulus check and a little bit extra, i was able to buy them along with a new set of tires...

    problem? the tires now stick out about an inch past the 4" flares... i see a wider set in jcwhitneys, and a few in the jeep mags...

    question? how difficult are they to put on? it looks like there's only a few bolts holding the flares on... but i can't tell about the stuff between the wheels below the doors... what holds them on?

    do i have to actually remove that stuff? there's a pretty good set of running boards there that runs from the bottom rear of the front flare to the bottom front of the rear flare...

    anyone point me to a website that shows stuff like this? or maybe another idea than wider flares?

    by the way, the rims look awesome!!! the wrangler has a wider stance...

    thanks!
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    i was told to look for a loose ground, it caused mine... funny thing, the loose ground was a broken ground wire to a side light? go figure, but when i spliced a piece into it, the problem went away...

    perhaps it was a fluke? perhaps not? but its fixed now :)
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Unless your tires stick out too far and either bother you or are illegal, I wouldn't worry about it. My 33's stick out a bit and I like the look personally.

    You can possibly get Rubicon flares which look identical but are a tad wider. Aftermarket flares should mount exactly how the stock ones do. There is a nutsert behind the sheet metal (and under the wheel well liners) that you can get to. The front is easy, as you can reach the 'back' of the wheel well from directly underneath. The rear wheel wells are a bit harder as you have to sometimes get behind the well liner to hold a nutsert that comes loose. When I removed mine a while back to put new ones on, most stayed in place. I only had 4 total I had a problem with and had them start spinning.

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Hey what's the problem...
    If your tires now stick out past the rubber splash guards then there is now no reason to even have them on any more.
    Don't buy wider rubbers, They are a waste of money and make you Jeep look like an 80's Testerosa Body Kit (silly).
    Now would be the perfect time to rip the rub-guards off and let the mud fly.
    This would be a good time to throw away the little running board (helper steps) and bumpers too. A short chunk of iron with tow hooks is all you need up front put a trailer hitch on the back. Now yer Jeepin'.
    Mud splatter and rock chips looks a lot cooler than ghetto fender extensions.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Mine stick out past the flares and I don't think it looks a Testarosa..

    image

    I do agree with the steps - lose em. :) But I put rock rails on instead.

    The plastic flares DO help when offroad - I'd much rather have them rub than the metal itself. :)

    -Paul
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Rick,
    Cool JEEP.
    The Testarosa comment was in ref. to the ones where the flares are wider than the tires. (7 inch)
    Your set up looks just right.
    I helped chop one up last year.
    He was running 12.50 33's w/3" taller coils on a '99 TJ. We removed the flairs and running boards. Also cut the front fenders back.
    Made it look like an old CJ 2A.
    ...so far getting away w/Honda turn signals in the grill.
    Goober bashed the body below the passengers door the first time out. So your right, "...rock rails good."
  • behennessbehenness Member Posts: 3
    Ok, so this has been going on for quite some time. When it happens it gives the no bus error and the gauges all stop working, fuel pump cuts out and the PCM stops working. I have traced it to the grounding wire (G105) on the passnger side of the engine. That wire is showing 200 ohms of resistance and is responsible for grounding the PCM and the fuel pump. From a cold start the Jeep runs fine but as it heats up I can feel it drive a little sluggy, until finally after a 1/2-1hr of driving it cuts out. If I let it sit and cool down for 10 minutes or so it starts right up and drives for another 10-15 minutes.

    I have been pulling back the wire covers bit by bit looking for the chafed wire that is most likely underlying this problem. Any info would be helpful, wiring diagrams would be great.
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    i tried it without the wider flares, and i just don't like the slop thats thrown up on the sides... i appreciate the comments about the testarosa flares... i don't want to get too wide...

    where do i measure to judge what i have now and what i need? i got a guy thats a pro body man that says he'll put them on for me... cheap :) i've done him some good deeds in the past, so he's paying me back... without me asking him to do so, by the way...

    what about the measurements though? how do i decide what i need?
  • nworbekimnworbekim Member Posts: 17
    i'm unable to answer your question regarding wiring, but possibly you have 2 problems?

    when i first bought my wrangler, my fuel pump would quit on me after a short time of driving... i found i could beat on the bottom of the fuel tank near the right bottom side where you find a bump... and it would start up again...

    i had the pump replaced... had to drop the tank, the **** thing is INSIDE!!! and these days of cheap, trashy fuel, it may just be the filter, which is inside too...

    so the 2 problems may seem related, but actually not? i don't know... i've seen wilder things...

    i was told while writing this that there is a download using limewire or bitttorrent of a cdrom disk that has all the jeep wrangler parts, repair stuff, etc... on it...

    i don't know if its a bootleg (pirated) copy or not...

    might be worth a look...

    i'm still trying to figure out what size flares i need for mine...

    seeya!
  • behennessbehenness Member Posts: 3
    today I had it idling and I was going around touching wires and got it to die and throw the "no bus" error. So it seems I have found the trouble area in the wiring. Its where the wires pass over the engine through a plastic railing bolted to the engine parallel to the fuel rail. removed the air intake from the TB and pulled the cover off the plastic railing, it was real dirty inside couldn't find the break though. it started to rain so I had to quit and put everything back in place.

    Before this I was about to give up and go to an auto electrician, but now I have some hope. I'm trying to save $ for school this fall and I'd rather not pay someone to wrap a piece of tape around a wire if I don't have to.

    I will keep posting here and let you all know the final resolution to this problem.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    You're referring to the Factory Service Manual. The CD copies you'll see on Limewire or Bittorrent are pirated copies.

    For the $95.00 or so it costs to buy one, it is well worth it. One repair using it can pay for it. Don't support pirated information.

    -Paul
  • behennessbehenness Member Posts: 3
    Resolution: The crankshaft position sensor broke off its bracket and the wire had rubbed through. Replaced it this morning and the Jeep seems to be running fine.
  • revduckierevduckie Member Posts: 1
    Greetings-
    Have you ever had a car that you just love, and you know every motor sound, every body moan and groan, and exactly how it handles after years of driving? Then you get a new noise and it drives ya nuts?

    I recently pressure washed my 2004 2.5L 4-cyl engine, and now I get a high pitched whining noise when I hit the gas. The noise is still detectable at idle speeds. All gauges are normal, it runs the same as always, but that noise is driving me insane. is the same I even replaced the serpentine belt just in case.

    Any suggestions for things to check??? Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Take off the new belt and run the engine for a couple of minutes to see if the noise remains. That will ascertain whether or not it's caused by one of the external rotating components.
  • wxyzachwxyzach Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Wrangler.. it has 10,000Ks on it now and i've installed a 4" Skyjacker long arm suspension kit and I have 35" mickey thompson baja claw tyres.. I have had a wheel alignment.. It still pulls to the right when accelerating.. Can anyone help fix this problem?? Cheers, Zach
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I recently completed a training course on the Rubicon Trail with a 1999 Wrangler TJ provided by the trainer. His website lists the specs as:

    I-6 4.0L fuel injected engine, automatic transmission, 3 speed, 300 transfer case, low range 4:1, axle ratio 4.88:1, BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A 35x12.50 R 15, 131:1 / 54:1 crawl ratio.

    The idle speed stayed around 750RPM. At that speed, the Jeep would crawl at a fast walking speed on flat ground when in 4LO and first gear. Going downhill, there would be little engine braking because it would be already going too fast and I had to ride the brakes most of the time. The owner said this is how it was supposed to run, but I have rented Jeep automatics in the past and found they barely creeped in 4LO and low gear and they provided reasonable downhill engine braking.

    The idle is not adjustable, but the specs I have found for the 4.0L engine say 600 RPM +/-70RPM, so 670 should be the upper limit. To me, 750 was too high and was causing my problem. The owner disagrees.

    So, you Jeep automatic owners, what do you think? Is 750RPM too high? Should an auto in 4LO and low gear creep that fast? Shouldn't you be able to go down moderate grades on engine braking alone? Let me hear your take on this.

    Thanks!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Are your control arms adjustable? My guess would not be torque steer, but more likely your axles are lined up to go right OR your steering wheel needs to be adjusted to be 'recentered'. THAT is something you can do yourself following the writeup here:

    http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I hit a man-hole cover at low speed, around 30mi and hour, and for a few feet my Jeep seemed like it was way out of alignment, it wobbled badly. It stopped after I drove about 50ft. It does not happen every time I hit a bump but it does happen now and then. Never been off-road and it only has 16,000 miles on it. All required maintenance has been done including tire rotation etc. What could it be? Also when I start slowing to a stop I hear a clicking noise. This does happen often. When you drive a vehicle for a while you get to know what is a normal sound and what isn't. The clicking noise slows as I slow.

    TIA gentlemen.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    For obvious reasons I can only be very non-specific, but you would appear to have a front suspension component that can change position or orientation under a momentary load before returning to it's original configuration.
    It could be an upper or lower knuckle joint, maybe a softening control arm bushing, or possibly one of the many steering joints.

    As for the clicking, it's probably either the brakes or a dry 'U' joint. You have 'U' joints on both the front and rear propeller shafts and the front half shafts.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    It kind of sounds like something in the steering geometry came loose. Perhaps check the tie rod ends, track bar ends (especially the axle end). As for the clicking noise, it could possibly be one of the u-joints that goes from the axle shaft to the hub that turns at either front wheel. Mine clicks too, but I have a front auto-locker that I installed a few years ago.

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Unfortunately I am not mechanically inclined and I have a bad hand. I have not made any modifications to my Jeep. Why would this happen...all of a sudden? Why doesn't this happen with other vehicles? If it happened to mine shouldn't it be a problem with other 06 jeeps or jeeps in general. As I said, I only have 16,000 mi on it and it has been well taken care of. It is just hard to believe that normal driving would cause this problem...not saying it is not the problem. What would make this happen?
    How can I prevent it from happening since I do not abuse my Jeep?
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Would this be a warranty issue? It seems that Jeeps have a lot of problems that regular vehicles do not have. I am not mechanically inclined and have a bad hand so I cannot do any of the work myself. Thanks for your reply.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I's start by checking the steering damper. A bad damper will allow your front tires to go into a wobble oscillation when prompted by a bump.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Your JEEP wants to leave the road. Your JEEP needs to leave the road. Your JEEP was built to go to the dirt. The shaking is much like a delirium tremor that an old alky will experience when deprived of his much needed booze. When your JEEP hits an bump it's off road soul is awakened and the deep seated need for dirt and mud and dust makes it veer towards the green and brown world where it belongs. Take your JEEP to the woods at least once a week and JEEP will serve you well the rest of the week.
  • rebel99rebel99 Member Posts: 11
    you might have a bent control arm, thats what happened to mine when i hit a ditch and now it veers to the left. my tire and rim and coil and shock and all that stuff is fine but the control arm is bent, thats all.
  • rebel99rebel99 Member Posts: 11
    i am a commericial fisherman, which means i am away from land for long periods of time. a buddy of mine recomended this shop and i was eager to get a body lift on my wrangler so i said screw it whatever and had them do it. great body lift, everything is awesome, except for some damn reason the 4wd is disconected. i dont know if they didnt reconnect it, or if i need a link extension or what. the lever moves freely, does not lock in anywhere and the dash lights do not come on at all.

    2000 sport 4.0 inline 6 with 3" BL

    any help is greatly appreciated :sick:
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Very plausible there with the bent CA. You should be able to visually inspect to check for this. I wouldn't think a pothole would cause this kind of steering issue, but ya never know.

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If you got a BL w/o a motor lift, it may be why. You CAN get a bracket to hook this all in. I believe it is Skyjacker that makes it. OR you could get the motor mount lift and then everything should hook back together just fine. There is a site that has info about a TSB for clanking transfer case linkages, but it shows how it should look as well. You MAY be able to reconnect it. I know many with BL's that haven't done a MML and their 4wd shift lever works fine.

    http://www.4x4xplor.com/T-CaseTSB.html

    Maybe that'll help. It is an easy fix...

    -Paul
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    It MAY be a warranty issue. Take it in and have them look at it. Even new vehicles can have issues. I had a 2 month old BMW and the computer controlling the dash died at night and I lost all exterior lighting for about 10 minutes (driving thru the desert at night!). It happens.

    But I suspect something is/was loose. If you take it in, tell em it pulls right when driving and have them drive it.

    Perhaps one thing to check - maybe it isn't really pulling and your steering wheel is just off center (usually caused by loose drag link (the bar coming from the steering box down to the passenger side wheel). This would give the appearance of having to 'turn' the wheel back to the left to get it to track straight. If you check that part that has 2 clamps on it (there are 2 - one is the tie rod -going between both wheels, and this one which is up by the frame just under the steering box), and then see if the clamps or that adjusting sleeve is loose, it may be something you can fix yourself easily. I had to recenter my wheel after doing a lift and changing my steering geometry a bit.

    Take a look at this site http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html and near the bottom, you'll see the section on recentering your steering wheel. He says it a lot better than I do. :)

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Apparently mine would fall apart if it left the road :lemon: I have never "abused" my jeep...although taking it off-road could hardly be called abuse for a vehicle designed for it. I have to take it in for an oil change and tire rotation so I will have them take a look at it. As for taking it off-road, there are not many places in CT. where that is allowed unless you join some group and pay fees etc. It is the vehicle I use for work so I cannot beat it up much right now, besides I cannot do any maintenance myself so it would cost me a bundle to keep it up and running. The message about the bent control arm is one reason I am not taking it off-road right now. I do go on some very light weight trails but none that would damage my jeep. When you cannot do the repairs yourself you have to be careful. Thanks for the info though.
  • rebel99rebel99 Member Posts: 11
    well i looked at that website and checked everything out on my own jeeper. it all corresponds so either ill take it to the dealer where i bought it (but i imagine they'll say no because i put the BL on). if not i can put the little rubber booty on myself, its not such a hassle. and i need to get a link extender to reconnect the whole thing too.
    just wanted to thank you for you help

    -al
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Yep...I had mine back to the dealer after owning it for just 2 weeks. They had to replace the rotors. This problem seems similar to that one except the rotor problem was noticeable when I braked. Yesterday it really vibrated and wobbled after hitting a small bump. I guess it could be a rotor problem again but I don't think so. My jeep only has 16,000 mi. on it. I know nothing about doing repairs myself and have no clue what to look for under my Jeep. The problem might be readily apparent to someone with knowledge of such things.
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    sky,

    I don't know how much air pressure you are running in your tires, but I solved a similar problem by reducing the air pressure from 35 psi to around 28 psi. I have slightly larger than stock tires.

    Since you drive only on good roads, the less pressure probably will not hurt handling and might help reduce the bounce.

    Let them down to 28 psi (use a good gauge) and see if the problem goes away. If for some reason you want more tire pressure, you can then raise it a little at a time until you find the problem coming back.

    Terry
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I'm curious. Have you noticed any drop in gas mileage since you reduced your tire pressure?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    tidester,

    I can't really say. The tires are 30" compared to the 28-1/2's that were on it new.

    I noticed the tendency to bounce right after I got them. I figured with bigger tires, I could get by with a little bigger foot print. It would soften the ride a little, not get me in trouble with wear, and would tend to reduce bounce. So, I really don't know how much mileage was affected by the reduced pressure. Remember also, the bigger tire size changed my odometer by about 5%, making it look like my mileage went down.

    I keep good gas mileage records. Correcting for the odometer error, I get about 14.2 mpg with all town driving.

    Tire wear is even and the bounce went away.

    Terry
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Thanks, WD! I agree - the bounce issue would likely be a higher priority.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • edecostaedecosta Member Posts: 1
    I have an 1988 yj with a 2.5 when starting and running gas shoots up and out of the side port inside of the throttle body .What would cause this? It shoots up about 6 inches or more. Any help would be great thanks.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Update- It happened to my wife yesterday. She was driving along and hit a man-hole cover...just the regular ones you see on the highway or back road. The Jeep immediately started vibrating, steering wheel shaking, front end vibrating as well as the front tires. It only lasts about 2 or 3 seconds. Naturally she let off the gas right away and after 2 or 3 seconds the Jeep returned to "normal."

    We cannot recreate the problem at will. It does not happen every time we hit a bump.
    One would think that if something was disconnected etc. that it would happen more frequently. I have a feeling that if I take it to the dealer they will not be able to recreate the problem and I will pay a service charge for nothing. I guess that is what I will have to do though. At least it will be on record in case something more serious happens. I just wish I could find the problem myself. Could something be lose or disconnected and still only effect it on once and a while? The jeep is stock and I do not know what type of suspension component would effect it the way it has I would agree that it could have been the brakes but this happens when we are not under braking. I was hoping that someone has had this problem and could tell me what the problem was. Thanks for your time.
  • feuerwehr66feuerwehr66 Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 jeep wrangler idles at about 1500 at start up for about twenty seconds. Then it slows to normal idle speed. It has just started doing this. Any ideas. Thanks, JIM
  • jakebrake49jakebrake49 Member Posts: 8
    Mine drops from 40 to 20 or as low as 10 psi after it warms up. I have had it in to Jeep to repace the oil pump and check the main bearing clearance. The chaeked and said my oil pressure really does go that low. I have 10W 30 in it now. Several differenct shops including another Jeep say don't worry about it, but I don't want it to sieze up when I'm in the booneys!

    QUESTION: Has anyone actually had one of these fixed? Jeep garage says a new engine.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    My car is at the dealers right now. They tell me my problem is severely warped rotors and metal to metal brakes. As I said in other posts the dealership replaced the rotors a couple of weeks after I bought it because they had a "bad batch." How could they go so quickly? I hope they don't try to charge me for this. My jeep only has 16,000 mi. on it. Surely they do not go bad every 16,000 mi. What do you folks think?

    Not under warranty....364.00 out the door. I hope this does not happen every 16,000 mi.
  • sadworldsadworld Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2006 Unlimited, and had the rotors go bad at 7,000mi. The dealer fixed them no charge (like I was going to pay), and now at 12,000mi they're going bad again. Unfortunately I'd be happy with your 16,000mi. :-(.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    This should be something that they fix at NO cost, especially since my 3 year warranty is not up. I think I will contact someone in consumers affairs in my state of Ct. I would like to know how many others have this type of problem and why most vehicles do NOT have this problem. There has to be some kind of defect.
  • redfisharedfisha Member Posts: 1
    Was wondering,,,have 33 inche tires on my 99 Wrangler...my question is, if I go to 35's does the rearend support this...not sure if I have to change the gears before going to this size tire....Thanks
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