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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I have a 2004 Jeep Wrangler X and have to say that it's the biggest nightmare that I have ever owned. I will never buy another Jeep or Chrysler or American car ever again!

    Wow! I guess your Jeep has a lot to answer for. Just curious, but did you even take a test drive?

    The Jeep bounces you around......It has no pickup.......It has no handling.

    Back to the test drive question again.

    You can't hear the radio......You can't talk to anyone on a cell.

    Test drive?

    I've taken the roof off once- and NEVER AGAIN! It was such a headache to put it back together.

    Again, the kind of thing one evaluates before one purchases.

    Picking up dry cleaning is a pain because there's no where to hang anything.........I have no trunk so when after I play golf I just can't leave my golf clubs in there......The glove compartment is too small.

    Not even a test drive required here, just sit in it and look around!

    You have to hold the gas hose while pumping gas and can't let it sit alone.

    Can't help there. None of the pumps around here allow you to lock the trigger on, so you have to hold the nozzle whatever vehicle you're in.

    I have had to put patches on my tires four times already and the tires wear at an abnormal rate.

    The standard GSAs are often criticized, but not usually for a lack of puncture resistance or abnormal wear (though they are a directional tire and the tread changes across the width). You may have needed an alignment, as can be the case with any vehicle.

    The jeep has no wind aerodynamics- so on an open
    highway- you get blown everywhere and I have to struggle to keep this crap on the road.


    I think I would have described it as having a greater sensitivity to cross-winds than the average sedan. A high body and short wheelbase will do that.

    Tomorrow I'm trading in for an Ultimate Driving
    Machine and can't wait!


    Well, good luck with your UDM, whatever that may be. I hope it doesn't disappoint, as that will eliminate you being able to purchase anything from that manufacturer, or that manufacturer's country, ever again.

    As for anyone thinking about buying a Wrangler, remember, it's not a car, it's not a truck, it's not an alternative to a convertible sports car, it's not an SUV.......... it's a JEEP, and it doesn't pretend to be anything else.

    P.S. Remember to take a test drive before you sign on the dotted line. :shades:

  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    It's a JEEP, bye
  • nolid5nolid5 Member Posts: 148
    Amen, concise as always Mac. Although most points seem like common sense to me. As they say it's a Jeep thing.....
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    You have to be joking, right? Now seriously, you bought a TJ and expected it to be smooth, quiet, and sophisticated? That's like buying a 911 and then complaining about the lack of luggage space... As Mac said, next time Test drive the vehicle BEFORE buying it.
    Simple, huh?
    OTOH, you could do what I and several others on this board have done, which is keep the Jeep and pick up one or two UDMs to keep it company.
    It's called the best of both worlds...
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Don't forget the lack of side mirrors when you take the doors off! ;)

    tidester, host
  • surianosuriano Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a used 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 4 cyl from a dealer. It has about 91,000 miles on it. When I first start the Jeep up in the morning it starts fine, then when I put the Jeep in drive "automatic transmission" and hit the gas sometimes the engine stutters and the rpm's go down to where it feels like it's going to stall out. I just hit the gas harder and then in about 2 seconds the problem goes away and won't happen again until after I shut off the Jeep. The jeep has to be turned off for about 10 - 15 minutes then I start it back up and the same thing happens just after I start to go forward. It starts stuttering again and feels like it's going to stall out. Can anyone please help me with this? I put the OBD II diagnostic scanner on it and it didn't pull any codes. Thanks!
  • jvprjvpr Member Posts: 48
    here's more on my jeep--- now my 2004 wrangler has a serious tapping / rattling noise coming from the engine-specially when you accelerate. it's a very loud clicking noise. when i accelerate, it gets louder. the dealer told me that my engine was blown. this doesn't sound right... the jeep only had 20,000 miles... is the engine fixable? could it be valve covers, heads or could the push rods be clogged?

    the jeep runs- only makes a loud and obnoxious tapping noise as if someone was under the hood banging away. what do you think? i need help...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I replied to you in the Wrangler forum. It won't be the valve cover, head, or pushrods. An '04 with 20K should be under warranty still. Has it been denied?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I think it would take some serious abuse or neglect to kill a 4.0 in 20K; they will usually last for at least 200K.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    I have a 2004 BMW 330 and have to say that it's the biggest nightmare that I have ever owned. I will never buy another BMW or Mercedes or
    German car ever again! The ride is way too rough on dirt roads. You can't get the top or the doors off, and how are you supposed to hose out leather?
    It requires only premium gas. It has no traction in snow or mud, and driving over rocks makes the worst noises! I can't even drive next to a curb without scraping up the wheels or knocking the air dam off.
    Picking up lumber or fertilizer is a pain because there's no where to stack anything. These goofy high-performance tires wear at an abnormal rate. I can't even install a trailer hitch!

    I'm done with it. Tomorrow I'm trading in for a Jeep and can't wait!

    All meant in good fun. Please don't take it personally, but we love Jeeps for many of the reasons you hate them. Notice that nobody has disagreed with your statements. Yes, all of the downsides you mention are true. Except for the tires thing. I don't get that, and I'm not sure it can be blamed on the truck. The one great thing you have going for you is that Wranglers have excellent resale value, so someone will definitely want it. Before you trade, check out the owners board for the brand you're after here on Edmunds. Especially the problems and solutions threads.
  • mijeeper97mijeeper97 Member Posts: 4
    Hey, I would change the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor for starters.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    LOL!!!
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Drew,

    Good one. I just got irritated. I like your approach better.

    Terry
  • moon29sunmoon29sun Member Posts: 1
    Hi Eveyone..just bought a 98 Wrangler Sport..it has 105000 miles on it and for a month now it was bogging down when I accerlerated. I changed the air filter, and oil and filled all fluids. Right now it's doing a bubbling noise and shaking the jeep pretty hard. It does this while I am in neutral or drive. The oil gage seems to be off the rock cause it goes up and down all the time. When I accelerate it goes down...the sound is like a puttering...with violent shakes. The throddle body is dirty on the inside but not the outside where the intake is (hopethis is right) and the air filter wasn't even dirty when I changed it. Could it be spark plugs and wires? Sorry so long..I just want to make sure you understand!! Thanks do much!
  • glenswifeglenswife Member Posts: 4
    Last week I took my 97 Wrangler in for an oil change and found out that my front brakes were metal to metal. Lucky girl that I am my husband is a mechanic so instead of paying someone else to replace them, I asked my husband to do it for me. Well, he got the new rotors/pads/calipers on and then I did my part by helping him bleed the brakes. For some reason after bleeding the brakes we still weren't able to get pressure back in the pedal when the ignition was turned on. My husband ( a few expletives later) thought that maybe the master cylinder needed to be replaced so we did that and still no luck. A few months back he had bought and installed a remanufactured master cylinder on his brothers truck that ended up being defective so we thought that maybe that was the problem. SO, I took it back and picked up a new one yesterday. So here were are we new rotors/calipers/pads/mastercylinder and no pressure when I push on the brake pedal. At this point my husband is absolutely frustrated because he is a mechanic and feels totally incapable at this point because this was such an easy task and it still isn't complete. Has anyone had a similar problem with their Wrangler? Any suggestions on what to try next? Thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I suggest asking your question in Stop here! Let's talk about brakes or Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions and the main Jeep Wrangler discussion may also be helpful.

    tidester, host
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    When bleeding the brakes did you start with the brake the farthest away from the master cylinder? Did your husband bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it?
  • glenswifeglenswife Member Posts: 4
    Yes, we started with the farthest, working our way to the closest. I'm not sure what you mean by bench bleeding the master cylinder. Could you elaborate?
  • glenswifeglenswife Member Posts: 4
    Last week I took my 97 Wrangler in for an oil change and found out that my front brakes were metal to metal. Lucky girl that I am my husband is a mechanic so instead of paying someone else to replace them, I asked my husband to do it for me. Well, he got the new rotors/pads/calipers on and then I did my part by helping him bleed the brakes. For some reason after bleeding the brakes we still weren't able to get pressure back in the pedal when the ignition was turned on. My husband ( a few expletives later) thought that maybe the master cylinder needed to be replaced so we did that and still no luck. A few months back he had bought and installed a remanufactured master cylinder on his brothers truck that ended up being defective so we thought that maybe that was the problem. SO, I took it back and picked up a new one yesterday. So here were are we new rotors/calipers/pads/mastercylinder and no pressure when I push on the brake pedal. At this point my husband is absolutely frustrated because he is a mechanic and feels totally incapable at this point because this was such an easy task and it still isn't complete. Has anyone had a similar problem with their Wrangler? Any suggestions on what to try next? Thanks
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Certainly. The master needs bled because there is air in the system even though you fill up the reservoir with fluid. There should be bleed ports where he can attach a small hose and route this hose back into the reservoir. Now, fill with fluid, and while pushing in on the rod on the back, you will see fluid and air coming out, back into the reservoir. Now the thing is primed and no air is present. This should be done while the MC is off the car. But, you said that there was not pressure before he even took the old one out. That could have been because the old one was shot. He will need to re-bleed everything after bench bleeding the MC because he may have forced new air into the brake lines.
  • glenswifeglenswife Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, I will ask if he did that.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    First, does it have ABS, as that can sometimes complicate things. Second, the reason you have no pedal pressure is that there is still air in the system. To begin to fix this you first need to know where the air is. You need to isolate the front calipers and rear cylinders from the rest of the system. You do this by clamping each of the flexible hoses, two front and one back, with either a special clamp made from round rod so that it won't damage the hose, or some locking pliers with something in the jaws to protect the hose.

    Correct tool
    image

    image
    Shadetree tool

    Now when you depress the pedal it will either be solid, or will sink to the floor again. If it's solid then the air is trapped in one or more of the calipers or cylinders. You can then release the clamps one at a time to establish one(s). If the pedal is still soft then the air is either in the master cylinder, ABS pump, or the hard brake lines.

    The Wrangler doesn't have an unusual brake system, and this technique can be used on almost any vehicle.
  • tammypptammypp Member Posts: 1
    hi
    can anyone tell me how to replace the tip and slide cable in my 2000 sport or tell me where i can get this information its nothing more than a pain to get the kids in the back seat my husband removed the seat but didn't want to take it all apart not sure it would go back the right way he found the cable and it is broke inside the seat maybe a diagram of how the cable runs through the seat if anyone can help
    thanks
  • 99tjguy99tjguy Member Posts: 2
    I am going through the same problem right now with my 99 Wrangler. I have found the key release broken and have a new one to replace it. The problem I have now is that I still can't get it to turn did you resolve your issue??? How??? to
  • mcleodmcleod Member Posts: 2
    Hi everybody. This is my first time on this board and I had a question about oil pressure on my jeep. When I first bought it the oil pressure was reading 40 when first started and read about 50 when driving 55 60 mph. About 2 weeks after I bought it I noticed the oil pressure was creeping toward 55 and 60 going same speed. Now this is my first Jeep and I admit I do not know alot about them. I am not sure if this is normal or not. It does not seem normal but as previously stated I do not have alot of knowledge on them. Any help would be appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Probably nothing to worry about, but to establish a baseline change the oil and filter. Remember, oil pressure will be lower at idle than at speed, and will be higher when cold than when hot. Changing the oil and filter will eliminate the possibility of a problem with the filter, and the possibility that the seller might have put some kind of additive in the oil.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Yes, it could be the plugs and wires (and the cap and rotor). You should also clean the inside of the throttle body. The fluctuating oil pressure gauge could be caused by a faulty sender.
  • mcleodmcleod Member Posts: 2
    That's what I was thinking and it's good to hear someone else opinion. Thanks for your help.
  • texasjeeptexasjeep Member Posts: 270
    This link should be helpful.

    Click here
  • jt828jt828 Member Posts: 12
    GOD I LOVE MY TJ ;) sounds like you need something else :cry::cry:
  • jt828jt828 Member Posts: 12
    whats the deal with the heavy duty warn steering stabilizer?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    GOD I LOVE MY TJ sounds like you need something else

    You've lost me there. :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    whats the deal with the heavy duty warn steering stabilizer?

    The standard Wrangler stabilizer is perfectly adequate for tires up to at least 33". It exists to dampen any kickback through the steering if the tire strikes something at speed.

    A steering damper can also dampen oscillation caused by worn or loose steering components. People sometimes fit a larger damper instead of fixing the original problem.
  • danooodanooo Member Posts: 2
    200 V6 WRANGLER I HAD A NEW RADIATOR PUT IN BY MY TRUSTED MECHANIC. NO DOUBT THAT MY RADIATOR DID NEED REPLACING AS THE SEALS WERE BAD.I AM STILL HAVING TROUBLE WITH THE RESERVOIR. EVERY WEEK IT IS DOWN ABOUT HALFWAY. THE MECHANIC IS GOING TO LOOK AT IT THIS WEEK, BUT I WANTED TO KNOW IF ANYONE HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS, SUGGESTIONS ETC.

    THANKS DAN
  • tammigurltammigurl Member Posts: 2
    Have you ever fixed it??? Mine started that way now I have intermittant horn wipers or signals....please help!!
  • tammigurltammigurl Member Posts: 2
    And I forgot, if I hit the steering wheel in the middle, sometimes they will all be functional again! Dont ask how I figured this out!! :)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    And I forgot, if I hit the steering wheel in the middle, sometimes they will all be functional again! Dont ask how I figured this out!!

    You might get a reprimand from Tom for Jeep abuse........ he encourages people to hug their Jeeps. :blush:

    Actually, by hitting the wheel and getting a temporary fix you've pretty much confirmed the diagnosis, which is either a badly grounded or faulty clockspring. The clockspring is a device contained within the steering wheel, which allows an electrical connection to be maintained between the controls and airbag in the wheel and the rest of the vehicle, while still allowing the wheel to rotate. A common precursor to this problem is allowing the wheel/column to get wet.
  • labtestedlabtested Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a bear of a time getting and keeping the zippers on my '98 Wrangler moving. Does anybody have any tips on what to use to get them unstuck and keep them sliding with ease? Any favorite products? Tips? Techniques?
    Please help! Thanks!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There's various products out there, probably most easily obtained at camping or marine stores, or Walmart. Most commonly available in the form of a stick of hard wax.

    To get them unstuck try very hot water first, or something like WD40 as a last resort.
  • texasjeeptexasjeep Member Posts: 270
    I heard to just use candles. Rub it all over the zippers. I just had to replace 2 of my zippers. I guess too much dust and dirt gets in there and causes problems.
  • coomesacoomesa Member Posts: 1
    Intermitently will not start and when does runs good at idle but give it gas and acts like it wants to die. Have put new fuel tank, filter, pump and plugs, wires, etc. Other times can get in and fires up and runs like a champ.
    Could this be an alternator not giving enough juice or is it something bigger? Any hekp would be great!!
  • wildsidejeepwildsidejeep Member Posts: 1
    I recently put a 4" suspension lift and 33" tires on my 03' wrangler and the only problem that I have is when I hit about 30mph, or hit a bump the front tires shake extremely bad. Need some serious help!
  • mdljmtmdljmt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Wrangler with a 4cly. When driving and hitting a bump the engine will cut out. I think it is a electrical problem.
  • davidmc3mdavidmc3m Member Posts: 1
    i reciently returned to sweden and imported my 2000 wrangler se with me.in order to register my jeep in sweden i had to make some changes, european signal lights etc ,but they also need specs to show that the noise level complies to european standards.
    has anyboby any ideas of where i could get these as the alternative is to bring it to a lab which will measure this.
    it is a standard se with no modifications and jeep europe has been unable to help me.

    so if anybody can help me with knowledge of the noise output for a 2000 jeep se i would be very grateful.
    david
  • anthony17anthony17 Member Posts: 6
    Hi fellow Jeepers, I'm new to this site. wasn't sure how to post my question/problem?
    has anyone encounterd a oilly/hydrolic type fliud leak from a thin black rubber hose up under the driver side wheel well , behind the gas cap?? anyone? ,anyone?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    When posting a fresh question, just go to the bottom of the page and enter an appropriate title, then your message, then post it. Always try to give vehicle details like year, model, engine size, etc. Replying to a previous message with a new question makes a future search difficult.

    The hose in question is probably the breather pipe for your axle case. It allows the air in the axle to expand and contract as it heats and cools, and the hose is routed up high to prevent water intrusion. The hose could be partially blocked, or the axle could be overfilled.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    What Mac said. If you have fluid coming out of that, think of this:

    - Did you recently change the fluid? If so, it is probably filled too high.
    - Did you recently drive through some muck? If so, you may have gotten some junk in the hose.

    You can remove it from the back of the axle fairly easily and see if the hose is blocked with anything.

    -Paul
  • anthony17anthony17 Member Posts: 6
    thanks for the quick responses (both of you). i have not had anything done to the jeep when i noticed this lek. it was 2 months ago , and the thin hose had a clear plastic cap that was cracked. i assumed from cold weather. i live in nashua NH. i was in 4 wd through some snow of and on? the jeep is '01 sport 56k excellent cond. ?? any more sug. or confident in last ans.??
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The easiest way to be sure is to follow the path of the hose to its point of origination.
  • anthony17anthony17 Member Posts: 6
    does it sound like a major concern, the jeep is driving and shifting just as it was before(great)??
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