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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • rtroop84rtroop84 Member Posts: 2
    next time your check gauges light comes on look very closely to all of your gauges especially the oil pressure gauge, your problem might actually be oil pressure switch as well
  • rselfrself Member Posts: 9
    check the throtle position sensor
  • rselfrself Member Posts: 9
    my 97 did that and it was the wheel bearings i could not shake it by hand but it didnt do it again after i replaced the bearings
  • 97wrangler197wrangler1 Member Posts: 2
    my 97 wrangler 2.5 liter 5 speed has trouble starting it takes 2-3 tries to finally turn on and when it does it sounds like if it wants to turn off but after a while it idles fine but when i first drive it after it starts its stalls on first gear after that its fine believe it could be fuel pump and starter already changed plugs and wires and air filter need help thanks
  • dcook79dcook79 Member Posts: 3
    Will a 2001 4cyl 2.5 jeep wrangler engine fit in a 1997 jeep wrangler
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It should bolt straight in to a '97SE, though not anything with a 4.0.

    You may have to alter your wiring or swap parts to accomodate the coil rail ignition on the later engine.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    What he said... I thought the mounting points for the engine were located in slightly different spots. (assuming one was a 4.0L engine-equipped).

    Mac, any issues with the transmission? 97's have the Ax-5 manual or some kind of automatic. Not sure what the 2001's used.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Engine mounts and 101 other things are different between the 4.0 and 2.5, so for all practical purposes a 2.5 is only worth fitting in another SE.

    Both manual and automatic transmissions are the same for both the '97 and the '01, AX5 and 30RH.
    The crankshaft and engine block are the same for both transmssions.

    However, I was incorrect about the coil rail, as the '01 engine will have a distributor just like the '97.
  • jeepwrang97jeepwrang97 Member Posts: 1
    I cant figure out why my tail lights will not turn off when I turn the car off and it keep draining my battery?? Any ideas as to why?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The tail lights aren't supposed to turn off when you turn the engine off, you control them with the light switch.

    If you're referring to the brake lights, then they too run independent of the ignition switch and should illuminate whenever the brake pedal is depressed.

    If they come on at any time without the pedal being pressed, then the problem is most likely a faulty brake light switch.
  • jprussingjprussing Member Posts: 4
    Hello, I got a 94 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L ..recently I noticed that my Voltage Gauge was reading about 9 v its usually up around 14..... Battery is good Brand New, I had the Alternator Checked out it was good..... all connections seem to be good and the only thing i found was that #2 50amp fuse was blown out so i replaced it and it fixed the problem gauge was back up to 14v and after 1 min of driving it blows again.... I believe thats my generating output voltage fuse.... Now I have read that the PCM has the voltage regulator built in (Im not to sure if im right) im just wondering if the regulator is bad would it create a over charge issue, therefore blowing that #2 50amp fuse.. and if so im guessing a new PCM would have to be installed..... Well any advice would be helpful and if you could let me know if im on the right track as far as how this system is working that would be great. Thanks in Advance for your help...
  • toddsjeeptoddsjeep Member Posts: 1
    My heater only works on high.Friend of mine said maybe rheostat or switch.If rheostat where is it located? Thanks, Todd
  • tjcubtjcub Member Posts: 2
    I need some advice on adjusting headlights on a 2006 Wrangler. The adjustment screws are at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock positions on the headlight buckets. It looks like that if you adjust the height of the beams, you automatically adjust the left/right position also. Thanks for any help that you can give. :confuse:
  • tjcubtjcub Member Posts: 2
    For all you Jeepers with leaking wrangler half-doors:

    Have your dealer read Chrysler technical bulletin number 2301006 dated Feb. 06. This is chrysler's fix for a steel door that leaks from weatherstrip at the a-pillar(windshield post). 2005 wranglers should use the same steel half-door. :)
  • xlcr123xlcr123 Member Posts: 2
    my 97 tj with the 4 had the same problem...check engin light was staying on...went to jeep dealer..said 3 sencers were bad..i had them replaced...2 weeks later...check engin came on again...blew another 02 censor...replaced..driving home check engine lighe came on again??i have to bring it back again?? hope they find the problem...Dan
  • dcmackdcmack Member Posts: 2
    Have a 02 wrangler, 50,000 miles, auto, 6 cyl eng. it sat for about 3 days not run. then it starts ok but will not idle . . . zero just dies below 800 +/- rpm dies at any stop. after its driven for 3-5 miles it idles ok. So something is sticking in the idle controls. I bought a haynes book 87-03 but the fuel section show the throttle body different than mine. I have three componets that i think are possablities 1. is on the engine side of the throttle body with a connector plug coming in from the fire wall side. the 2. is a flat part on the battery side of the throttle body with a connector and the 3. is on the fire wall side of the throttle body which i know is the positioning sensor. which one is the most likely part that controls the idle fuel? thanks
  • ryno1226ryno1226 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 wrangler and need to check and fill transmission fluid. is it the bolt on the passenger side of tranny that I remove to check and fill. What is the best type of fluid to fill with?? thanks for the help..
  • dcmackdcmack Member Posts: 2
    fixed it. removed the idle servo motor cleaned it with wd40 now it works perfect
  • ozark200ozark200 Member Posts: 5
    Had very similar only worse problems with 89 wrangler with 60k miles. Two 5 star dealers couldn't solve after replacing 3-400 dollars in parts. They couldn't locate ECU (my wife found it) We replaced with rebuilt ECU for $100 and problem solved. Am sure you have some more sophisticated control unit but it;s worth checking
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Didn't read all the threads associated with this topic but does this tech. Bulletin cover any or all the 06's. I use to get a puddle of water on my drivers side and could never find the source. This happened many times when it rained. I thought it might be that the control knob should be turned all the way to the left in order to shut vents...I thought it might be getting in that way. Long story short, it still happens but not every time it rains. TIA
  • geri1933geri1933 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Jeep Wrangler 2005 & the air is only blowing out the top of the dash... not coming out of the vent no matter what setting it is on...any ideas?
  • heliheli Member Posts: 4
    I haven't read through ALL of the posts, so I apologize ahead of time if I'm asking something that's already been answered. I saw this goes back to 2005 and got twitchy. Anyway, my Wrangler is now almost 5 yrs. old and the zippers are a beast to deal with. Getting my top and windows back on are horrid and taking so much time to get back together. The zippers and lines are stiff and could be getting rusted (???). I do live in Florida near the beach, so I'm sure the salt air has a bit to do with it. Any suggestions on what I could use? :confuse:

    Thanks!
  • saharastevesaharasteve Member Posts: 15
    I use wax on my Drysuit zipper (Scuba). It keeps it somewhat protected and lubricated.
  • heliheli Member Posts: 4
    Hmm, not a bad idea. Thanks for the suggestion.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The zippers and lines are stiff and could be getting rusted (???). I do live in Florida near the beach, so I'm sure the salt air has a bit to do with it.

    The zips and Velcro are plastic so can't rust. As well as using a wax lubricant which you can get at dive/marine/camping stores (even Wal-Mart), using a tooth or nail brush and soapy water to regularly clean them will have the biggest effect.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Especially if you're near the ocean and salt crystals get in those teeth. Same kind of effects as dirt/dust...

    Using the wax after a good cleaning will make future cleanings a lot easier.

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Are you still around? I would like the info I requested..if you have it. TIA
  • bolden88bolden88 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 04 wrangler X. When I put it in 4WD it either doesn't engage or come's out after awhile. You can hear it start to grind as it is sliding out. What is wrong? Not enough fluid....teeth worn???
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php?t=31339

    Not sure if the info at that link will help but others with older models have had problems.
  • elscarecrowelscarecrow Member Posts: 5
    I am by no means a mechanic. I do have a wrangler and haven't had that problem. However I did experience the same problem with my 1999 Mazda 626, if you put a key such as a spare key and its a computer key, the computer may not recognize the key as the right key. It locks the ignition and will not start. This means you'll have to take your (tow) your car to a dealer and have them reprogram a new computer key for your ignition. Soon as you do that, u MUST throw away your old keys. They will charge you like 176.00 for a new computer key. Its a rip off. I can see paying the 76.00, they are a business, but they'll gouge you if they can. After I got my new key, it started right away. Hope your problem is something different. Mine cost me.
  • elscarecrowelscarecrow Member Posts: 5
    My Jeep has a 4cy 2.5 engine automatic w/4x4. However trying to get onto highway and gaining speed is a joke. It has 31" tires but I dont think that would cause it to drive so slow. Once I get it going it will max out at about 80mph on a fairly straight away or especially down a hill. But try to drive up an incline, it slows to about 55-60mph. Its embarrassing! If I can't find a good 4.0cyl. engine, I hear I can replace the 2.5 and install a Chevy 350 cause it will fit right in? Is this true? I guess I'll have to change the transmission as well. I was also told I could just change the gears. Would this give me that much more power? Im not a mechanic so I don;t know what the answer is. I just want to travel a bit with my wife and not have 39 cars tailgating me for driving too slow. Help!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Do you have a 2.5 with auto? A manual is better, but it is still sluggish.

    You can replace the engine easily enough - you have options, but consider that you will also be needing to replace the transmission. The trannys in the 2.5 won't handle a 4.0 or a V8 w/o serious mods or problems (they WON'T handle the torque).

    You'll also be swapping engine harnesses and such, so just be aware it is more than just a simple engine swap. You will need to relocate engine mounts at a minimum.

    I have a 2.5L and 33" tires. But I regeared to 4.88 (I have a manual). It's still no barn burner, but I can travel most highways decently. I downshift less than I did with the 4.10's and 30" tires, but I still have to do it. I just don't get in a hurry. If I need to go fast, I shouldn't be in my Jeep. I had a BMW 6 Series for the go-fast.

    If the Jeep is your only vehicle, you may be better off getting a slightly newer one with the 4.0 (perhaps an Unlimited - longer wheelbase) would be a good choice.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It has 31" tires but I dont think that would cause it to drive so slow.

    That's exactly what the problem is. The 2.5 auto is a slug on the road to start with, but add larger diameter tires and it'll hardly be able to get out of it's own way.

    You can change engine or gearing to improve matters. New axle gearing will be easier and cheaper but won't make it a sports car. A new engine will make a huge improvement to all round performance, but it's an expensive and complex (depending on your skills) option.

    If you go that route it's actually easier to fit a 350 than it is a 4.0; strange but true. :surprise:
  • elscarecrowelscarecrow Member Posts: 5
    i appreciate your reply. I am leaning towards the 350 and all its expense. I plan on keeping this jeep.
  • elscarecrowelscarecrow Member Posts: 5
    thank you for the heads up! Points me in the right direction.
  • bpritter32bpritter32 Member Posts: 1
    My first problem is minor, my fan for my heater/ac quit working on the 2 highest levels. So, it works on low and medium, and it has been single digits here and I need heat! Has this happened to anyone, and is it an easy fix? I hate to take it to a dealer and have to pay a fortune!

    Second problem is more severe I fear. I noticed my heat, what little I get, was cool. I checked my antifreeze and was out. I do not see where it is leaking or anything, I do notice a hot smell when i've been driving and stopped coming from the vents. I was told it sounded like a manifold gasket leak. Can someone give me some answers on what they think it is?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    What year TJ? There is a problem in your fan switch it sounds like, but Mac can confirm if it is the the controller there at the dash or elsewhere. Replacement HVAC controls CAN be found online and is a pretty easy swap.

    As for the leak, do you still have a stock radiator? They are infamous for leaking at the top where the plastic meets metal. Again, an easy swap. But you may want to check your oil to see if it is cloudy (it'll either be fresh or dark, but it shouldn't be cloudy). If cloudy, you're leaking into the engine and that is bad juju.

    I'd suspect the bad radiator first. If your TJ is old enough (ie older than 2004), I'd recommend a radiator flush as well being sure to get the heater core. My 97 has been flushed, but the heater core needs some attention. It takes a LONG time to get warm, though it eventually gets there, in the cab. I either have air in my lines or my heater core is gunked up and needs some cleaning/flushing. It's just too darn cold to do it right now. :)

    -Paul
  • knuckles2262knuckles2262 Member Posts: 2
    Battery was dead. Charged overnight. Now she cranks but does not start. Also has no voltage gauge or gas gauge function. Ideas??
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I'd venture to guess either you have something left on, a short somewhere, or perhaps your battery cables are worn. If the battery has been killed enough times, it will NOT hold a charge. One reason I went to a battery like the Optima gel batteries.

    -Paul
  • knuckles2262knuckles2262 Member Posts: 2
    Battery seems to be holding charge. Is cranking like a champ, but still will not start, and has no gauge function.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    May want to remove gauge from the dash assembly (just a phillips screwdriver is all you need) and check the contacts. They can get bent up a bit or more likely just need to be cleaned with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip. Apply some dielectric grease to ensure a good contact.

    Have you had your starter checked out?

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Is the glass covered in the 3 year warranty? I have an 06 wrangler x and a small crack appeared on the front window...passenger side. It is not from a rock being throwned up. TIA
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Worth asking about. I had a crack develop in my BMW windshield from high heat in the Mojave desert. They looked, saw no impact from debris/rocks, and replaced it under warranty.

    On another note.... THROWNED? :)

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    No..not thrown either...just a minor crack at the edge of the windshield.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    Just called the place I bought the Jeep and they said I would have to go through my insurance company which means it is not a warranty issue. DRAT!!!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I'd suggest trying to call a couple of dealers and see if glass is covered... It is a Jeep warranty, not with the specific dealer.

    -Paul
  • wrangerairwrangerair Member Posts: 2
    Help, i am new to this site and hope someone can help. I have a 97 wrangler that i am having a complete air conditioning kit installed. I purcased a new OEM kit on ebay. it was for a 1999 and was told it would fit in a 1997. know i am being told it will not work because the plugs are different. Anyone know if it can be adapted to work?

    Thanks Eric
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It can probably be made to work, though there will obviously be some extra expense involved.

    Although physically similar, the '97 uses slider controls for the HVAC and the '99 uses rotary ones, hence the difference in control connections.
    You'll have to get the later style electrical harness, vacuum lines, blower control switch, and switch mounting panel.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,348
    May want to remove gauge from the dash assembly (just a phillips screwdriver is all you need) and check the contacts. They can get bent up a bit or more likely just need to be cleaned with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip. Apply some dielectric grease to ensure a good contact.

    I'd only add that I've seen DeoxIT recommended as a first-rate electrical contact cleaner. I plan to use it on my TJ's gauge plugs if/when they need cleaning again.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • wrangerairwrangerair Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Sounds like someone gave me the wrong info so they could sell me there 99 kit. I think i am just going to buy the 97 kit and just sell this one.

    Thanks again Eric
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