Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
The headlights went out on our jeep wrangler, so we bought a new switch , so now the new switch is in... headlights work,, , bad news is , tail lights, park lights, fog lights, and instrument panel lights do not work.. we thought it was a faulty switch so paid another 75 dollars and guess what same problem.. we also changed the fuse.. just a baffler to us.. any answers???? if so we sure would appreciate it. :sick:
If so I'd guess that you've dislodged a connector or damaged a wire while fitting the replacement h/l switch.
If not, then it needs to be diagnosed 'hands on' with a DVOM (multimeter) and the circuit diagrams.
Just a thought, but you say you checked 'the' fuse. On my '99 (I don't have the '97 circuit diagrams handy but they're probably somewhat similar) there several fuses concerned with the lighting circuits. You might want to check on those.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram they could send me a copy of or tell me where I can get one?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
The rate dosen't seem to increase either. This one is driving me crazy. It dosen't happen all the time.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
-Paul
Thanks!
Simon05
1- battery has fluid in and has been charged
2-fuses under hood had all had juice
3-cranked starter manually and got sparks
4-took to mechanic and he changed ignition switch twice
im sure its got to be electrical. but where to look? any help would be great. thank you
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
It needs to be diagnosed by a mechanic that knows not to change an ignition switch twice. :surprise:
It could be several things, from a faulty Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASD) to a bad neutral safety switch, which is what prevents operation of the starter unless the transmission is in Park or Neutral in an automatic, or the same item in a manual transmission vehicle that prevents starting unless the clutch pedal is depressed.
The safety switch is most likely, but it's only a guess. Get it checked out by someone who at least knows how to use a multimeter.
In addition to knowing whether the check light is on all the time, or just when you fill the tank up, or whether it bucks at higher rpm all the time, or just when you fill the tank up, we also need to know what trouble codes the computer is holding.
The check light means there are codes to be read which will point in the direction of the problem. Get a code reader, or go to Autozone and get them read for free, then post the codes back here.
. He doesnt think its CPS, or anything having to do with bad rotor caps, fuel pump, etc. because he says im getting power to my horn and headlights, and heats working, but not the cars' computer. the key turns and i get no sound whatsoever. the radio doesnt work, nor does any of the dash lights. so hes eliminating certain issues, and boiling down to something not reaching the cars computer to start. i think. does that sound right?? we talked about myabe a corroded gauge cluster or even ive read people having issues with their battery cables being corroded eventhough their headlights shined bright, but car didnt start. any additinal thoughts?
thanks again my friend
Pete
The code read at Autozone should tell you which one. The TPS is easy to change out too.
-Paul
I have fixed everything that has gone wrong, right away. I got regular oil changes, more than regular because I did a lot of driving for two years so monthly at that point. I use the same mechanics all the time if I can help it, and one is a Jeep owner. Everytime I fix something big and we are talking thousands of dollars into this vehicle by now including the $4000 for the new engine and exhaust and oh yeah that radiator thing way back with the sheered bolt and I'm asking, what did I do wrong? Why does this vehicle just keep breaking down on me? How is it that nothing ever seems to be truely fixed? The Airbag light comes on and goes off whenever it feels like it, I won't have air this summer and heat only sometimes the rest of the winter and I can't afford a new steering box but come on!!! I always thought Jeeps ran forever and were dependable and fun and hearty. I am so frustrated and yet I love being a Jeep owner, the top down, the open cabin; I don't even mind all the noise and bounciness. I'm so frustrated and disillusioned and I feel like an idiot for fixing anything. I should have just gotten rid of it right away I guess but how was I to know? And yet, I still want a Wrangler above all other vehicles even though I know I have to buy something new and dependable. Has anyone ever had so much trouble with one little truck?
My 97 TJ has been surprisingly problem free for the most part. Any problems are usually the result of my wheeling. Though the catalytic converter was covered under a recall, as was the cracked manifold.
Other than that, mine has been relatively problem free. I DID replace the water pump this past weekend at 114K miles, but that isn't a surprise. With routine maintenance, they are quite reliable - same as any other vehicle.
Squealing brakes may be a result of poor installation, poor brake material, or possibly dirt, rocks, etc between the rotor/drum and the pads. Hard to tell. I recommend EBC yellow or EBC green pads and a good solid cast rotor. Since my TJ is out of warranty, I have no problem going aftermarket for my parts! Usually cheaper AND better quality.
My rear cylinders have been fine and I just replaced the rear pads at 105K miles. They should RARELY require changing as most braking is done in front.
Honestly with the problems your mechanics induce, it sounds like a LOT of the issues stem from them screwing things up (starter, cross threading, etc). Personally, I'd learn to do a lot of it myself or find another mechanic that does more good than harm.
-Paul
There's a fairly common issue in which the gauges become unresponsive, which is cured by a realignment of the connector pins, but it won't prevent starting and running.
It's possible for the battery cables to be corroded to the point that they can supply enough power for the headlights but not the starter, but in that case the headlights would dim or extinguish as soon as the starter was tried.
If this issue appeared overnight (and not after some other component was replaced or repair undertaken) I think it's probably a simple single issue such as a bad component ground or maybe a failed fusible link. Someone with an understanding of auto electrics should be able to solve this quickly, but a copy of the electrical information in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) will be almost essential.
Good grief, you've certainly had more than your share. :surprise:
Sometimes a vehicle is just a lemon and nothing you can do will go right, but I really don't think that's the case here.
Maybe your Wrangler can carry 5% of the blame, but the other 95% has to go to the ham fisted monkeys who were allowed to brutalize the poor thing with wrenches.
I have a '99 that I've owned from new that's coming up to 100K, and apart from routine maintenance I haven't spent more $25 on failed components (steering pump bearing $5, wheel cylinder $20).
While mine may be an extreme case, it's a lot more typical of Wrangler reliability than yours has been. I think you've been taken advantage of, and just like some people need to change their dating habits, maybe you need to stop going to a certain type of mechanic.
Just saying, you know.
-Paul
They might be similar but I wouldn't recommend it for troubleshooting.
You can access the factory manual for $27 for a year at ALLDATA.
A few weeks ago my tail lights got stuck on after I had turned the Jeep (a TJ '97 ) off and removed the key. Normally they will shut off automatically, there is no external switch. Nothing would shut them off! I finally disconnected the battery so I could get back inside. When I returned to my Jeep I reconnected the bat and the lights were back to normal.
Next week the left turn signal went out. I replaced the bulb but it didnt help, there was no juice reaching the socket. I traced it back to the terminal plug under the steering wheel. I unpluged it, found power reaching the socket peg and planned to splice the wire leading to the light socket. Funny thing tho...when I plugged it back in the turn signal started working. :confuse:
But, the dash lights and tail lights stopped working. By now I had figured it was a connection problem, but where? I unplugged it today (same plug) and sprayed it lightly with electrical cleaner put in some grease. No good!
In fact, now the break lights don't work!!! And there is no power to the little metal socket peg for the break lights! That means power isn't even reaching the socket! :sick:
The turn signal/flashers work, but no breaks, tail lights, or dash illumination. (The odometer, dash turn signals, headlights, seatbelt lights,etc. all work on the dash. It's just the dials. Wipers work, radio is good...)
Is there a circuit board behind the terminal plugs? I'm thinking it could be cracked.
My problem is that the Haynes manual doesn't show a diagram of the terminal plugs and doesn't describe them at all. I'm kinda new to this so I just need some better instructions.
Any help please?
See the post before yours (#1480) for access to the factory manual including wiring diagrams.
It's not unusual to have a connection that's loose or corroded, but to have that problem affecting several different circuits is less common.
Has your Jeep ever been submerged (even partially), or do you live near the coast where the air is salty?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Since the door won't open, how do I get it open to take the inside panel off to check out the latch mechinism?
Thanks
Removed starter and had that repaired, but after reinstalling still same weird electrical surges. My thoughts are something in the key ignition unit is still drawing amps from battery even without key. Battery is disconnected and I'm planning on pulling ignition unit out tomorrow, but has anyone ever heard of this?
Also is the key ignition box easy to take out of steering column? Appreciate any feedback fellow Jeepsters....thanks.
FEDs
The codes your '97 uses are all two digit ones; here's how to read them without a scanner.
Turn the ignition key to the "On" position three times in succession (i.e., On, Off, On, Off, On), within five seconds
The Malfunction Indicator (Check Engine) Lamp will flash the appropriate number of times to indicate the DTC number, with a short pause between the first and second digits (e.g., 2 flashes of the MIL, followed by a short pause, followed by 5 more flashes, indicates error code 25)
The appropriate DTC will also be displayed in the odometer window
All DTCs consist of 2 digits. If more than one DTC is stored in the PCM's memory, the procedure above will display all codes in succession. Regardless of how many codes are stored, Code 55 will always be the final code to be displayed. Code 55 indicates the "completion of the fault code display on the Check Engine lamp".
Any help would br greatly appreciated.
Thanks
The steering column cover comes apart like clam shells. There are phillips screws on the bottom and the two pieces seperate top and bottom to expose the connectors. I am assuming you are referring to the multifunction turn signal switch?? I recall that has 2 aor 3 large connectors and a couple of screws anchoring it. It should come apart easily. Caution: Be sure to disconnect the battery to avoid accidental deployment of the airbag since you will be working in the vicinity of the airbag componets. Good luck and I hope it goes well.
51: O2 sensor is detecting a rich air/fuel mixture.
55. Check engine light has been activated.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
-Paul