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Comments
-Paul
Do you have full or half doors? I have a factory service manual and can look and see what may be causing the issue. It SOUNDS like the actuator for the lock isn't attached properly.
-Paul
then, if the problem persists, check your tie-rods
Thanks
1999 Wrangler 4.0 5 speed noa/c.
You should have a manual tensioner on a '99; it's positioned below the P/S pump.
Slacken the bolt in the center of the idler pulley and adjust the belt using the long narrow bolt at 90 degrees to the axis of the pulley.
Without a proper tension gauge a rough guide is to not quite be able to twist the belt to 90 degrees (using just your finger and thumb) in the middle of the run to the left of the P/S pulley.
When the tension is correct retighten the pulley bolt and check the tension again, correct if necessary.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Just get a good set of aftermarket sway bar end links like JKS's quicker disconnects and never look back. They make a version that works from 0" of lift up to 3" of lift and a version that works 4-6" of lift. So even if you lift up your TJ, these will grow with you.
-Paul
I agree with the sentiment wholeheartedly, but broken sway bar links aren't fixable and replacements aren't cheap.
It's actually going to be less expensive to go with aftermarket disconnects than to keep replacing the OE parts.
As to why he's breaking them I have no idea, except that constant extreme asymmetrical flexing of the sway bar will do it.
Only thing that makes sense to me on the situation is either:
1. Somebody is offroading enough w/o disconnecting the end links.
2. Sway bar may be bent enough that strain is placed on one of the endlinks. May be worth removing it entirely and examining it to see if it is bent with one side higher/lower than the other.
-Paul
Throttle seems to be working, vacuum lines all seem to attached. Could there be an engine speed sensor obscured by dirt and if so where do I find it ?
Thanks a million for your help.
John.
If not, disconnect the battery and fully charge it, then reinstall and you should be good to go.
Your issue is not uncommon when starting with a low battery.
Any help?
I have a 2002 wrangler with the 4.0 engine + a/c serpentine belt needs replaced. Chilton manual - not very helpful anybody have experience with this? is there a spring-loaded tensioner or adjuster bolt? any info would be helpful THANKS!
m.t.
I've quite a bit of experience with gm products - not so much with chrysler/jeep.
We used to be able to change out a belt like this without really "removing" the tensioner - just springing it + holding in place. is this possible here? do tell...
and Thank you again
Thanks!
Yes, it's from the '02 FSM.
60 minutes, so I thought I may have a loose bolt, but no manual, and I am over in the Middle East, so I need to know what torque I should look for on my torque wrench when I test the head bolts
Can only guess of course, but it sounds like a tire problem. Probably one of the belts has separated which will require replacement of the affected tire.
What did the 'tune up' consist of?
-Paul
I had a problem before where the AC only blew through the defrost vent on High. When I had it repaired the guy said it was a vacuum hose that came off. I referred to a message on this board,#1242, but that did not do the trick. Any Ideas?
I drive a 2003 Wrangler SE (standard trans) with about 40,000 miles on it. Since I bought the car, I noticed it doesn't really like the AC running. When you activate the AC, you can see and feel the RPMs fall. If you're at speed, you can feel the car start pulling power to run the AC. It's much more pronounced than any other car I've ever owned. Sure, it's a 4 cylinder, but is this normal?
Aside from that, today I got stuck in traffic both to and from work (really fun with a manual transmission...). On the way home, I was idling along and the car was really struggling. RPMs would drop below 600 every so often and I thought she was going to die on me. Also, shifting between first and second would sometimes cause a major hesitation.
So I turned off the AC/fan and she ran rough the rest of the way home, once nearly dying while I waited at a stoplight.
Any ideas? I just had a full tune up complete with a fuel system flush. Fuel filter is out of the question as it's under the gas tank. So what else could it be? This is my third summer with it and it's always kind of rode rough with the AC on, just not this bad...
However your problem isn't the a/c, it's the engine, as indicated by the fact it was running rough after the a/c was turned off.
You say "Fuel filter is out of the question as it's under the gas tank" (actually it's in the gas tank), but I'm not sure what you mean. The filter is part of the pump and either could be the problem.
You may also have one of the many sensors on the engine starting to fail.
Start by seeing if there are any codes being held (no check light doesn't necessarily mean no codes), and you could also look at fuel pressure and volume.
But the SE's never had power. A/C sucks when it blows. Sucks any power you may have had as it blows the cold air...
-Paul
That said, getting someone to check the codes -- can that be done at any auto store or do I have to take it in to a mechanic. I usually do most work myself but I've never had to have codes checked.
Thanks,
Dustin
The only way it could be worse is if it was an auto. Auto + a/c + 4cyl = the ultimate on-road slug.
You can get it checked for codes at AutoZone for free.
I have different gearing in my differentials. I'm running 33's and 4.88 gears. I drove from Cullman, AL to Huntsville, AL with my wife, son, after a day of wheeling. I had my offroad gear, 2 coolers, and the top up.
Up and down rolling hills, we ran the A/C. I was able to maintain 65-75 without too much trouble.
If your TJ is running any tires larger than the stock 29's, you may want to consider regearing. 31's or 32's I'd recommend 4.56 gears. 33's will want 4.88's.
And the benefits offroad of regearing are even better!
One thing I also did was some cooling system work. You may ask how this helps... well, my 97 was running the stock pump and I wasn't getting good flow to operate my climate controls very well. I replaced the thermostat, flushed the system, and found I had a water pump that was darn near impossible to turn even by hand. When I restarted the TJ, coolant POURED out.
$35.00 later I installed the new pump and found a LOT less restriction on the belt and the engine seemed to not feel AS bogged down. It made a significant difference. Even my wife noticed.
My A/C still sucks on the system pretty good, but it isn't anywhere NEAR what it was before I did the cooling work. May be worth a look to see when the last time stuff like that was done to your TJ.
-Paul