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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Use some channel locks to keep the lower part from spinning. Being tight to remove is not uncommon, even on newer links.

    -Paul
  • smokie46smokie46 Member Posts: 4
    I took the door apart after I got it unlocked with a coat hanger. Took off the interior panel, pealed back the plastic sheeting and didn't find anything wrong. I locked the door and it wouldn't unlock again. Went through the whole process again, got it to unlock but still haven't figured it out yet. Guess I'll have to leave it unlocked.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If you have a soft top, that's the best thing to do anyway. It may save you some $$ if somebody decides they want in. Otherwise they'd slash your top.

    Do you have full or half doors? I have a factory service manual and can look and see what may be causing the issue. It SOUNDS like the actuator for the lock isn't attached properly.

    -Paul
  • myxjsmyxjs Member Posts: 3
    first i would start cheap, get ALL your wheels ballanced (about 10 dollars per wheel)
    then, if the problem persists, check your tie-rods
  • kc22610kc22610 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Rubicon. The other morning i was letting it warm up, after about 10mins i went back out to leave and i noticed black partial on the ground where the exhaust dampness was. After work i looked and it the black flake looking things were still there. Does anyone know what this is and does something need to be fixed? I recently had the oil changed and air filter checked but didn't need to be replaced.

    Thanks
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    I think you have a combination of water condensation and carbon built up in the exhaust system causing the black residue. If you have been driving short distances this will build up and come out of the exhaust as a black watery soot. It should not be anything to be concerned with. A longer drive should clear it all out
  • olivajcarmineolivajcarmine Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice, decided to bring me Jeep to repair shop I trust to have them look it over, I was told the tires needed to be balanced, as you suggested. I was also told the tires I had were at the end of their life span, 50,000 miles was the recomended replacement time (I was at 52,000)...anyways the noise is gone, thank you for your advice.
  • ironmike55ironmike55 Member Posts: 1
    I recently had my serpentine belt relaced at one of those oil change places (a major oil co.), it took them 45 minutes to replace and adjust the belt. Now the belt squeals every time I start the engine, which leads me to believe the belt is too loose. What steps are needed to adjust the tension because I won't bring it back there again.
    1999 Wrangler 4.0 5 speed noa/c.
  • gayjeepboygayjeepboy Member Posts: 26
    I had the same problem on my 97 Wrangler w/w a 4.0. I am not sure if the 99 has an automatic tensioner. If it does I would replace it since the tension spring may be getting weak. My 97 DID NOT have an aotomatic tensioner and it had to be set manually and it was a bear to get it just right. My 05 Wrangler 4.0 is automatic and I havent had any belt problems. Hope it works out for you.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    What steps are needed to adjust the tension because I won't bring it back there again.

    You should have a manual tensioner on a '99; it's positioned below the P/S pump.

    image

    Slacken the bolt in the center of the idler pulley and adjust the belt using the long narrow bolt at 90 degrees to the axis of the pulley.
    Without a proper tension gauge a rough guide is to not quite be able to twist the belt to 90 degrees (using just your finger and thumb) in the middle of the run to the left of the P/S pulley.
    When the tension is correct retighten the pulley bolt and check the tension again, correct if necessary.
  • nuttiernuttnuttiernutt Member Posts: 1
    I have an 04' Jeep Wrangler with about 108K miles on it. Standard Transmission. This past summer I started to hear a whistling noise from the motor. It would stop when I would accelerate and start when I let off the gas pedal. I was told this was more than likely my throw out bearing (Already) going out...? If so, is there a cheap fix to quiet the whistling until it goes all the way out? I don't really have a ton of money to invest in this problem right now. Thanks.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    It sounds to me like you have a vacuum leak- not a bad throw-out bearing.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • smokie46smokie46 Member Posts: 4
    It's been a while since I've been on this site...I took the door apart again, and decided to unhook the linkage between the key lock cylinder and the latch. It's only about 4 inches long. After doing that, I can lock the door (inside only) and unlock it (inside only) and it works the right way. Only problem is that I can't unlock it from the outside now, and thats ok with me.
  • dieseldemondieseldemon Member Posts: 2
    I have a stock 1997 wrangler, everything is stock.. I cant keep sway bar pins in this thing.. Always breaking or shearing bolts.. Never experienced anything like this before and have no idea why this is happening.. Any ideas ??
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Yep, lousy design. :) Either that or you're driving like Mario Andretti.

    Just get a good set of aftermarket sway bar end links like JKS's quicker disconnects and never look back. They make a version that works from 0" of lift up to 3" of lift and a version that works 4-6" of lift. So even if you lift up your TJ, these will grow with you. :)

    -Paul
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    While I am sure that it would solve his problem, I am not as quick to advise him to buy new ones. If you can fix the problem yourself, (I couldn't) then by all means do it. I don't know about others here but I simply do not have money laying around to buy new stuff. I try to fix it or have a friend fix it and as a last resort..I buy whatever I need..within a very small budget.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I try to fix it or have a friend fix it and as a last resort..

    I agree with the sentiment wholeheartedly, but broken sway bar links aren't fixable and replacements aren't cheap.
    It's actually going to be less expensive to go with aftermarket disconnects than to keep replacing the OE parts.

    As to why he's breaking them I have no idea, except that constant extreme asymmetrical flexing of the sway bar will do it.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Buying 1 set of JKS links will be cheaper than buying multiple sets of OEM links. I don't know about you, but I don't like to buy something twice. I don't have the money to buy the same (flimsy) part more than once. Pay more for the initial investment and stop worrying about it - and get a better product. Now if the endlinks are free, go for it, but you are spending TIME now, which to me is even more valuable than money, doing the same repair multiple times. You pick.

    Only thing that makes sense to me on the situation is either:

    1. Somebody is offroading enough w/o disconnecting the end links.
    2. Sway bar may be bent enough that strain is placed on one of the endlinks. May be worth removing it entirely and examining it to see if it is bent with one side higher/lower than the other.

    -Paul
  • johnhewittjohnhewitt Member Posts: 1
    After starting up my '97 6 cyl wrangler for the first time in several weeks with a weak battery and after last use off road in snow and mud the engine idle speed is very high; above 2000 rpm.

    Throttle seems to be working, vacuum lines all seem to attached. Could there be an engine speed sensor obscured by dirt and if so where do I find it ?

    Thanks a million for your help.

    John.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If the battery is now properly charged, disconnect it for five minutes to clear the secondary settings in the PCM.
    If not, disconnect the battery and fully charge it, then reinstall and you should be good to go.
    Your issue is not uncommon when starting with a low battery.
  • jakebrake49jakebrake49 Member Posts: 8
    at idle, my 2000 Wrangler six auto rpm will go up several hundred rpm and then come back to about 900. Kind of pulsating. I need to keep the brake depressed firmly or it will actually go ahead. Does it in park as well

    Any help?
  • scootertec58scootertec58 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    I have a 2002 wrangler with the 4.0 engine + a/c serpentine belt needs replaced. Chilton manual - not very helpful anybody have experience with this? is there a spring-loaded tensioner or adjuster bolt? any info would be helpful THANKS!
    m.t.
  • scootertec58scootertec58 Member Posts: 3
    Is the "check engine" light on?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's easier to show you than to explain. Your's should be the automatic tensioner shown here but pre '00 models use a manually adjusted one.

    image
  • scootertec58scootertec58 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Mac! is this page out of the oem manual? do tell...
    I've quite a bit of experience with gm products - not so much with chrysler/jeep.
    We used to be able to change out a belt like this without really "removing" the tensioner - just springing it + holding in place. is this possible here? do tell...
    and Thank you again
  • aliebhartaliebhart Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I have a 98 wrangler tj sport, and when i went to remove the doors the nuts broke right off of the bolt on the door hinges (breaking the actual long bolt through the hinge) am I going to have to get whole new hinges... or is there someplace i can just get the new nut and bolt somewhere!?

    Thanks!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Thanks Mac! is this page out of the oem manual?

    Yes, it's from the '02 FSM.
  • philratcliffphilratcliff Member Posts: 1
    I have combustion gas leakage into the cooling system after the engine runs about
    60 minutes, so I thought I may have a loose bolt, but no manual, and I am over in the Middle East, so I need to know what torque I should look for on my torque wrench when I test the head bolts
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    100ft.lbs. Good luck.
  • tacoma_dometacoma_dome Member Posts: 1
    My jeep had been sitting for like 3 years because it broke down and I just bought a new truck. now I want to get it running again. I replaced the starter and the clutch slave cylinder. Now I just need a rear drive shaft. When I start it it sounds like there is a leak in the intake or something like that and I get an error code 25. It says nothing about fixing this in my jeep manual. I can not find any repair online can someone help me?
  • dieseldemondieseldemon Member Posts: 2
    25** A shorted or open condition detected in one or more of the idle air control motor circuits. Actual idle speed does not equal target idle speed.
  • rtrunrrtrunr Member Posts: 1
    I operate this jeep on my mail route and have developed a vibration (like driving over a washboard) that starts at 45 MPH and gets progressively worse the faster you go. I just had the tires balanced not too long ago (but will do again) but I have felt THAT sort of shimmy (side-to-side) before and the tire re-balance eliminated that problem. This vibration is real different more of an up-and-down vibration. My mechanic drove it and can't figure it out. I really need some good advice on what this problem might be. Thank you.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    This vibration is real different more of an up-and-down vibration.

    Can only guess of course, but it sounds like a tire problem. Probably one of the belts has separated which will require replacement of the affected tire.
  • jakebrake49jakebrake49 Member Posts: 8
    No the check engine light is not on.
  • xlcr123xlcr123 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1997 jeep tj..hard top full metal doors..doors leak also..since day one..the defroster.dosent work or center vents?..and no recall..go figure
  • ljmbuildersljmbuilders Member Posts: 1
    after new tune up, still only getting 10 miles per gallon, any idea why?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Could be anything from a bad O2 sensor to binding brakes.
    What did the 'tune up' consist of?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Do you have stock tires or larger ones? If larger ones, you need to change the speedometer gear in the transfer case to accurately reflect speed and mileage. Your mileage may not be as bad as you think.

    -Paul
  • ajolson1964ajolson1964 Member Posts: 1
    I have at 2005 Wrangler X 6cy and the AC fan does not blow. The ac compressor works fine because I can turn the AC on and if going 65 or so down the freeway some air will blow through the system and it is nice and cold. Unfortunately when stopped at a light or 35 no air will blow through the system.
    I had a problem before where the AC only blew through the defrost vent on High. When I had it repaired the guy said it was a vacuum hose that came off. I referred to a message on this board,#1242, but that did not do the trick. Any Ideas?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Could be a faulty blower, resistor pack, or control switch, but most likely it's just a blown fuse.
  • tyoshutyoshu Member Posts: 31
    i have an 06 Rubicon and it is time to get new tires. Can i get some recommendations for a new set. It is my daily driver but i do go off road occasionally. Thanks for the help.
  • captjaxcaptjax Member Posts: 3
    Hi there,

    I drive a 2003 Wrangler SE (standard trans) with about 40,000 miles on it. Since I bought the car, I noticed it doesn't really like the AC running. When you activate the AC, you can see and feel the RPMs fall. If you're at speed, you can feel the car start pulling power to run the AC. It's much more pronounced than any other car I've ever owned. Sure, it's a 4 cylinder, but is this normal?

    Aside from that, today I got stuck in traffic both to and from work (really fun with a manual transmission...). On the way home, I was idling along and the car was really struggling. RPMs would drop below 600 every so often and I thought she was going to die on me. Also, shifting between first and second would sometimes cause a major hesitation.

    So I turned off the AC/fan and she ran rough the rest of the way home, once nearly dying while I waited at a stoplight.

    Any ideas? I just had a full tune up complete with a fuel system flush. Fuel filter is out of the question as it's under the gas tank. So what else could it be? This is my third summer with it and it's always kind of rode rough with the AC on, just not this bad...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The 4cyl 2.4, although better than the earlier 2.5, really doesn't have much power to spare at the best of times and the a/c imposes a significant load when engaged. As with most vehicles, the idle speed is supposed to increase when the a/c is turned on in order to cope with that load.

    However your problem isn't the a/c, it's the engine, as indicated by the fact it was running rough after the a/c was turned off.

    You say "Fuel filter is out of the question as it's under the gas tank" (actually it's in the gas tank), but I'm not sure what you mean. The filter is part of the pump and either could be the problem.
    You may also have one of the many sensors on the engine starting to fail.

    Start by seeing if there are any codes being held (no check light doesn't necessarily mean no codes), and you could also look at fuel pressure and volume.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Symptoms sound like my TPS issue I had a while back...

    But the SE's never had power. A/C sucks when it blows. :) Sucks any power you may have had as it blows the cold air...

    -Paul
  • captjaxcaptjax Member Posts: 3
    The lack of power is amazing. I was lured by the mileage on an 03 (17,000 when I bought in late 06).

    That said, getting someone to check the codes -- can that be done at any auto store or do I have to take it in to a mechanic. I usually do most work myself but I've never had to have codes checked.
  • dcook79dcook79 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 four cylinder. I just put a motor in it. But when I unhooked the starter and alternator wires, I didnt mark where they go. If somebody can explain what wires go on the starter and alternator, it would really help. Thats the last thing I need to hookup before its ready.

    Thanks,
    Dustin
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The lack of power is amazing......................That said, getting someone to check the codes -- can that be done at any auto store or do I have to take it in to a mechanic

    The only way it could be worse is if it was an auto. Auto + a/c + 4cyl = the ultimate on-road slug. ;)

    You can get it checked for codes at AutoZone for free.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Yeah, what he said. :)

    I have different gearing in my differentials. I'm running 33's and 4.88 gears. I drove from Cullman, AL to Huntsville, AL with my wife, son, after a day of wheeling. I had my offroad gear, 2 coolers, and the top up.

    Up and down rolling hills, we ran the A/C. I was able to maintain 65-75 without too much trouble.

    If your TJ is running any tires larger than the stock 29's, you may want to consider regearing. 31's or 32's I'd recommend 4.56 gears. 33's will want 4.88's.

    And the benefits offroad of regearing are even better! :)

    One thing I also did was some cooling system work. You may ask how this helps... well, my 97 was running the stock pump and I wasn't getting good flow to operate my climate controls very well. I replaced the thermostat, flushed the system, and found I had a water pump that was darn near impossible to turn even by hand. When I restarted the TJ, coolant POURED out.

    $35.00 later I installed the new pump and found a LOT less restriction on the belt and the engine seemed to not feel AS bogged down. It made a significant difference. Even my wife noticed.

    My A/C still sucks on the system pretty good, but it isn't anywhere NEAR what it was before I did the cooling work. May be worth a look to see when the last time stuff like that was done to your TJ.

    -Paul
  • jhamjham Member Posts: 2
    There is an inherent problem with older (late 1990 Wranglers) where the actuators that would direct heat and ac flow through the ducts would break off and no longer work. This would show up in the fact that air would not be directed where your settings indicate. There is heating and cooling, but just not distributed where it should be. This may be your problem. You need to check the air distribution/routing box between the firewall and the dash. It's hard to get to and expensive to fix, since it usually requires total replacement, since the individual damper closers that may be broken (cheap plastic) are not individually replacable. I've not heard of a vacuum hose issue, but check the actuators for the damper closers to see if this may be causing your problem.
  • jhamjham Member Posts: 2
    Also check your driveshaft. Sometimes these get bent when lifted improperly to change tires.
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