Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

1…2930323435…37

Comments

  • tymerejtymerej Member Posts: 4
    Hey,

    I've a 97 jeep wrangler 4.0 Sport with 61,000 miles. Firstly, my check engine light comes and goes off seemingly at will. After driving for approx. 30 min on the interstate the transmission seems to start slipping. It doesn't accelerate when foot is on the gas. Act like it doesn't know which gear it wants to be in. It is a manual drive so shouldn't be transmission right? Sometimes when it gets really bad it starts to buck/jump/pop like there's bad gas in the tank. Took it to friend of a friend mechanic and was told it was the clutch. The guy started it, rocked back and forth on the clutch and annouced after a few minutes it the clutch because the clutch was too 'high' Mechanic asked if i smelled burnt smell when problem happened. Sometimes i do. Took it to Advance Auto Parts and guy said may be oxygen sensor. He asked if i notice burnt smell also. Said sensor needs to be replaced at 60,000 miles. Help, any thoughts? I will take to another Advance Auto Parts to have codes read as this location had its roll out computer stolen..........
  • jeepinmanjeepinman Member Posts: 2
    have a sputter when going down the road just a light jolt here and there then got a light 02 sensor replaced it and still problem no light look at 02 no issues so then i begin the fun of tracing the issue i have replaced the following

    tsp, coil pack, plugs, ignition coil and coil sensor, oil change and filter, fuel additive,
    now into it for 1000.00 and still the same problem as i said it sputters just here and there just a light sputter but very noticeable any other ideas as i said no check engine lights on and ran computer on it and tested pressures and all show dead on help me please
  • jeepinmanjeepinman Member Posts: 2
    I have seen thisin my old neon wastold both thesame things after doing the 02 it endedupbeing the clutch but he is right u should do 02 after 60000 miles not a bad idea i have oned jeeps my whole life i would suggest clutch and throw out barring
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Before doing anything, check the codes. It could be a number of things, but us web-wheelers are only guessing until the codes are known. Could be a mechanical issue or it could be a sensor/electronic issue. Knowing those codes will definitely help. AutoZone can read codes too.

    -Paul
  • tmastmas Member Posts: 8
    I have the '02 Sport Wrangler 4.0 with 91K on the odometer. I recognized that the transmission mount was worn and making noise so I bought one and went under to replace it. It turned out that the passenger side crossmember bolts(3) came right out but the driver's side spun in place! What can I do to fix or remedy this situation? The frame up under the crossmember/skidplate seems very rusty and I'd like to repair it. I need a durable fix for the bolts and fastening them with the crossmember into the frame. Anybody?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    After driving for approx. 30 min on the interstate the transmission seems to start slipping. It doesn't accelerate when foot is on the gas.

    If the engine revs increase but the Jeep doesn't accelerate then it's almost certain that the clutch is slipping.

    If your check engine light comes on a code will be set in the computer. On a '97 you can check it without a code reader.

    To determine which Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) are stored in the PCM of your '97 TJ:
    •
    Turn the ignition key to the "On" position three times in succession (i.e., On, Off, On, Off, On), within five seconds
    •
    The Malfunction Indicator (Check Engine) Lamp will flash the appropriate number of times to indicate the DTC number, with a short pause between the first and second digits (e.g., 2 flashes of the MIL, followed by a short pause, followed by 5 more flashes, indicates error code 25)
    •
    The appropriate DTC will also be displayed in the odometer window
    Note: All DTCs consist of 2 digits. If more than one DTC is stored in the PCM's memory, the procedure above will display all codes in succession. Regardless of how many codes are stored, Code 55 will always be the final code to be displayed. Code 55 indicates the "completion of the fault code display on the Check Engine lamp".

    Post any codes here or look them up on Google.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The frame up under the crossmember/skidplate seems very rusty and I'd like to repair it. I need a durable fix for the bolts and fastening them with the crossmember into the frame.

    I'm afraid there's no way to make a strong repair except to cut out the bottom (and maybe some of the sides if they're badly rusted) of the frame rail and weld in new metal complete with nuts for the cross-member bolts.

    Most welding shops should be able to handle it as the area is easily accessible and the metal is thick enough to weld easily. Use new bolts with plenty of anti-seize.

    This is not an uncommon problem with Wranglers, especially where salt is used on the roads. One of the first things I did with mine was to remove those bolts one at a time and anti-seize them. Ten years on and they still come out as if they were new.
  • tymerejtymerej Member Posts: 4
    the engine doesn't rev when trying to accelerate, it just sputters.....jumps and bucks when it is bad and i don't press the clutch...I took it to Advance Auto Parts when the check engine light is on and was given the code P0132 which says the O2 sensor is giving off high voltage reading the Advance guy said. what do you think? clutch?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .......................was given the code P0132 which says the O2 sensor is giving off high voltage reading the Advance guy said. what do you think?

    I think it's interesting that you were given an OBDII code (Pxxxx) from a vehicle with an OBDI PCM.
    Go back to the instructions in my previous post and pull up the code(s) yourself.
    As explained there, the '97 returns two digit codes. Post here what you get.
  • srtreat83srtreat83 Member Posts: 2
    The only codes showing is the battery has been disconnected recently. We have now changed the rotor, distr. fuel pump and regulator and changed out the gas. It has been a month and now it either wont start or when it starts it dies after a while or dies when we try to take off.
  • jdmitchell32jdmitchell32 Member Posts: 3
    I have an 01 Jeep that I love to drive but it will not start. The motor isn't locked up. It will turn over if you jump the starter but I have no power to the starter from the rely under the passenger side dash. I have tried to jump start it with no luck. No one seems to have clue why it is acting this way. Somebody knows what is going on. Please tell me what in the world is causeing this. I have done everything I know but all the crap that is on these cars now has me at loss.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    My first guess would be a bad battery or battery cables. Have you inspected the wiring and connections to ensure everything is tight and that there is no corrosion? Do lights, radio, blinkers work?

    Have you had the battery tested? Do you have something in your Jeep that is always on that could be a drain for it?

    -Paul
  • jdmitchell32jdmitchell32 Member Posts: 3
    The batt. and all connections are fine. The lights work and the odometer comes on but the gauges don't trip and reset the way they did before. They don't move at all. I have turn apart the wireing harness. Replaced the relay in the dash. Checked the clutch sensor. Nothing. I am at the end of my rope. It's going to be something simple but with all the wireing in this thing, it's a nightmare.
  • jeffjeep07jeffjeep07 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 TJ with 72K miles. The check engine light is on and I had the codes read and Im told its the throttle pedal postion sensor and the power steering pressure(has a slight leak at the gearbox). It runs really rich and revs up and down upon a cold start. when I coast say like into a parking spot with the clutch in it occastionaly dies. The I am only getting 8 miles to the gallon with the stock wrangler tires and rims,(it has 4'' lift) it had on 33x12.50 was forced to take off till I can fix the gas mileage. Does anybody know if you can replace the sensor yourself or does it have to set by a mechanic? Any advice would be great I appericate it thanks to all who help.
  • tymerejtymerej Member Posts: 4
    i have a jeep wrangler 97 sport, 4.0 liter. my lower radiator hose is leaking and was wondering why. i've replaced it and it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks. now it has started again, i just took off the new hose and cut about an inch off the top end and put it back on after cleaning it off inside where it connects on both ends.i replaced the spring clamps with screw clamps which the AAP guy gave me. it leaks from the top connection for some reason. the guy at advance auto part gave me the right part, as i called and he double checked on the compter. hmmm, i don't have the money to take it to a shop, any assistance would be most appreciated. thanks, you guys are always helpful and knowledgable.

    jt
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    You SURE it is leaking from the opening? The TJ radiators are NOTORIOUS for leaking at the plastic/aluminum joint. It could be leaking there and running down and LOOKING like it is leaking from the hose.

    -Paul
  • vickyltvickylt Member Posts: 9
    jt, I thought I had the same problem that you described; however, it turned out to the what Paul stated it was.

    99 Jeep TJ
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    As an FYI, swapping a TJ radiator is NOT tough, and as long as you're in there doing it, swapping any other older parts like the t-stat or water pump is a cheap, low-cost preventative maintenance item to do.

    TJ water pumps are about 35.00 at Adv Auto and a thermostat is under 10.00 (gasket is usually extra). if you replace the water pump, be sure to see if the impeller has an "R" on it for reverse flow... order accordingly!

    If hoses are older replace them too.

    -Paul
  • tjtimetjtime Member Posts: 1
    About every 10-15 months my heater blower loses 3 of it's 4 speeds. I take it to my shop and he replaces resistors or something and charges me $50.00. He mentioned that it had to do with the fact that the blower motor is basically a high speed motor giving high or speed 4, and resistors???? have to be incorporated into the circuit to produce the other 3 lower speeds. Can anyone tell me the full story on this 'fix' and describe exactly step-by-step what I have to obtain in parts and how to fix this thing without spending another $50? I was recently laid off and I now need the $50.00 myself. I know that the Power Distribution Center shows the "High Blower Relay" in position 11 and indicates it having a 40 AMP Orange Relay. Thanks.....
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If it is blowing that much and resistors keep needing replacement, I'd suggest finding a local salvage yard and picking one up from a 97 (the newer versions operate differently and won't work in a 97). I'd also encourage you to pop apart that area of the dash and look for loose/frayed wires that may be causing the resistors to blow.

    Probably replacing the unit is the easiest way to go. When I say replacement, I'm thinking the switches, not the motor itself. Perhaps Mac will jump in here and confirm or just laugh at me for being WAY off! :)

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The shop the original poster is going to is fixing the problem, but not taking care of the cause.
    While it could be a faulty switch, bad ground, or bad blower motor causing the resistor pack to burn out, the most common cause is water, damp crud or leaves settling on top of it.

    The resistor sits at the bottom of the HVAC housing on the passenger side and if the Jeep is often parked under trees or the plenum drain is blocked (or a combination of the two), then moisture and debris can find its way into the housing.
    A blocked condensate drain can also have the same effect, but the puddle on the passenger floor usually ensures it gets cleared before the resistor is affected.
  • tymerejtymerej Member Posts: 4
    i'm not mechanically inclined so pardon my many questions but, you're saying it may be leaking from the place where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine, not where the lower radiator hose connects to the radiator right? because it does seem to be leaking down from that vicinity. thanks guys, you are the shiznit.

    jt
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    What I'm saying is that the TJ radiator is made up of the main core with all the metal blades AND a plastic topper where the upper hose connects. That seam at the top is where the radiator tends to leak and run down the back side and LOOK like a lower hose leak.

    In the pic below, you can see the upper part of the radiator and the seam.

    image

    A GREAT writeup on replacing it can be found here:
    Stu Olson's Radiator Replacement Writeup. This is a very good site with lots of photos to detail mods and repairs for the TJ.

    -Paul
  • dootdoot Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 97 wrangler. I have had to have the transmission rebuilt within 1 month of purchase. It is still throwing the " torque converter solenoid" code. Is also throwing a "throttle position sensor" code. Each time it does this the blinkers either start working or will discontinue working. None of these problems seem to occur at the same time. When it is showing the throttle sensor code it is idling around 1300 Rpm with seems very high.
  • HulkSm4shHulkSm4sh Member Posts: 1
    Greetings,
    I've had great success here, hopefully it continues. My brake lights stopped working. I checked the fuses and the bulbs, they were all in good shape. All 3 break lights are out...left, right, and tire. My running lights work, as do my back up and turning lights. It seems to JUST be my brake lights. I went to the auto parts place to get a manual to help troubleshoot and they only had Haynes, which doesn't have electrical. Any help would be awesome. Also, does anyone know of a great Jeep manual for 2000 Wrangler??? I am having the worst luck finding one, but there are a million jeep nuts. This is my first Jeep, and I keep being told, "you will love it, but will learn how to fix it too". Thanks again and again.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Have you checked the brake light switch?

    You can access the Factory Service Manual for a year for around $27 at: AllData.
  • smaycrismaycri Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Wrangler w/ Auto transmission, it has about 110,000 miles

    A couple weeks ago I started my car in the morning and reversed fine but when I put it in drive and pushed on the gas it felt like I was in neutral for a second then it jumped forward a little and all was fine. Over the past 2 weeks it has progressed from that to now when I first start it up it takes 5+ seconds to go forward and when I stop at traffic lights it bucks - like it is attempting to toss me out the window (it feels like it is just willy-nilly switching gears) - and while stopped the rpms go down and it kind of shudders - then when gas applied same neutral/rev/jerk motion as before. As of a couple days ago, it has started "slipping" into neutral on the highway and it does not feel like it has as much oomph when it does accelerate. My questions are:
    1. Have I made it worse by continuing to drive it? / How quickly do I need to take it in?
    2. What type of auto repair shop should I take it to? (i.e. transmission, dealership, witch doctor?)
    3. Is it a good idea to get "used" transmission parts?
    4. Are there any associated parts/fluids/mechanisms (doohickeys?) that have contributed to my problem and should be checked as well?
    Thanks so much,
    Susan
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    1. Have I made it worse by continuing to drive it? / How quickly do I need to take it in?
    2. What type of auto repair shop should I take it to? (i.e. transmission, dealership, witch doctor?)
    3. Is it a good idea to get "used" transmission parts?
    4. Are there any associated parts/fluids/mechanisms (doohickeys?) that have contributed to my problem and should be checked as well?

    1: Yes / ASAP.
    2: An independent local transmission shop with a good reputation, i.e. not a major chain.
    3: Absolutely not.
    4: I would guess that the transmission hasn't had the regular service that it should, i.e. fluid and filter changes plus band adjustment at the appropriate intervals shown in your handbook.
  • smaycrismaycri Member Posts: 3
    Thanks so much for your help - this is a great site.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Thanks so much for your help - this is a great site.

    You're welcome, and good luck! :)
  • smaycrismaycri Member Posts: 3
    Took car in this morning - they said that my radiator was the culprit and caused the damage to my transmission so they are putting an exterior cooler (not sure on term) on to the radiator and the pump in my transmission was broken so it needs replacing/rebuilding. There was a burning smell apparently coming from it as well... est. grand total: $1600-1800. They said it would have been cheaper had I brought it in sooner- so thank you for your prompt reply.
  • jdmitchell32jdmitchell32 Member Posts: 3
    What would cause a 4cyl, 5spd to not even be pushed off? Its an 01 model Wrangler with 87K. Nothing special. Just will not start and its getting on my last nerve.
  • tracy3999tracy3999 Member Posts: 10
    My jeep just started being very sluggish, and the idol at times will run ruff... I have also noticed when i go to speed up i have no power,( i can put the pedal right to the floor and nothing)... and at times i will hear a popping noises that sounds like its coming from under the hood... also at times it just feels like its not running with full power and only half... I have brought it to my local jeep dealer and they said that they didn't find anything wrong when they hooked it up to the machine... So they put some fuel injector stuff in the gas tank... Well as you can see it's still not any better..Soooo I put 2 other different fuel injector stuff in the tank and tried dry gas
    ( full tank for all three.. and one at time) .. I find its not as bad .. It seems to be worse when it sits for a while and i go to take off... The loss of power, very,very sluggish, and i hear the popping noises under the hood.. so i have to back off for a second, and then it will give me some power,. I also find at times when i tried to put the pedal to the metal the rpms go high then go down...I don't travel much to and from work and the mall.. So when i did go to the jeep dealer they said i need to drive it out of town for a little while... so i did it hasn't help... Im very frustrated and sad, i sooo love my jeep ... Im thinking my next step is to bring it to another mechanic to see if they have any suggestions.. Looking for some help and suggestions... Thank You... Tracy... My jeep is a 2004 jeep wrangler, automatic, 23,000 miles...
  • rebel99757rebel99757 Member Posts: 3
    Just gonna throw this one up there because i know ill get a good solid response no matter what it is, thanks to the members of this great site.

    When i start my jeeper up in the mornings (after a night of sitting not running, i.e. engine is cold), i back out of my driveway, put it in drive to go on down the road, it lags a little bit before the gas really responds. the lag is about 1 second, but i can push on the gas and it wont really respond and then it will kick in.
    granted it might not give it enough time to warm up and what not, but sometimes you gotta go when you gotta go.
    its not really a problem because there are no real consequences that i can see, just wondering what it is or if it could really develop into something ugly.

    thanks in advance
  • frylock287frylock287 Member Posts: 6
    Over time i have done a lot to my jeep such as cold air intake and a throttle body spacer. Recently though i have noticed that my jeep doesn't have as much get up and go along with having very hard times getting my jeep to drive over 70 on the highway. Very annoying sense i have an hour plus drive to work each day. Does anyone know why i would be having so much troubles driving faster then 70. Its a 1997 wrangler sport. I have also recently replaced the clutch and have a new limited slip transfer chase in it.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I have also recently replaced the clutch and have a new limited slip transfer chase in it.

    New clutch is good, but would the new limited slip transfer 'chase' be a case or a chain?
    Either way could you give more details please as I haven't yet come across the limited slip version.
  • wwsdwwsd Member Posts: 1
    The brakes on mine squeak sometimes if I let is sit more than 24 hours, but they have always done that since I bought the Jeep new. (2006 Jeep Wrangler X 6 cyl.) When I first bought it with 3 miles on the odometer the check engine light came on right after I drove about 5 miles away from the dealership. I took it back and they changed a sensor. Got about the same distance as I did before and the check engine light came back on. Took it back and they kept it overnight, turned out to be a bad weld, whatever that meant.

    I haven't had a problem with it until now. Came out one evening to go to work, turned the key, it turned over but wouldn't start. I took it to Firestone and they diagnosed it as the computer going out. I then took it to the dealership and they diagnosed it as fuel pump module. So that's where I am now... Hopefully, I won't have anymore problems, but I'll keep ya'll updated. :sick:
  • lephnt5lephnt5 Member Posts: 5
    I had a very similar experience with my 98 Jeep Wrangler TJ and after reading this forum and others, I began to question the O2 sensor, which I've learned, is very easy to do by yourself. I believe it cost about $60 bucks at the auto supply store for the sensor itself.

    I am in no way a mechanic, expert or anything of the kind. I just had a similar problem, researched it, worked with my mechanic and that's what solved the problem for me.
  • frylock287frylock287 Member Posts: 6
    i have alrdy replaced my O2 sensor only one of them though if there is only one for some reason i think there is 2. but it does kind of seem like it started a little after i replaced the sensor but i did most of my changes right around then. i do think my cat is gone bad it used to rattle and stuff but that stopped some time back so i dono what it is but thanks for the help any other ideas let me know
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    If your cat was rattling and now it's not, I'd be willing to bet you have a partial blockage and bad flow through the exhaust. I don't know if that would throw off the downstream O2 sensor or not... Sensor may be fine, but that cat may be the root cause... hard to say from here though.

    -Paul
  • rlm4rlm4 Member Posts: 2
    I "inherited" a 99 Wrangler from son & it's been long process of getting it back in shape. Love driving it. Replaced soft top w/ a Besttop. Looks good. Has half doors. After many times of trying to find water leaks at sides of each door, I finally found the source. There is a velcro strip on the inside of each door to which 3 sections of the 'bottom flap' come up and attach. Water comes in right under the black horizontal velcro strip & proceeds to fill up (literally) the pocket that is created by the bottom 'flap' coming up and attaching to the velcro strip. I have to put towels in there to catch it but they often get soaked and water runs out and into the floor area on each side. IS THERE A PRODUCT that I could use to seal this leak? Don't know if water comes in at the stitching points or at the sides where the zipper is???
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    I have a similar situation where mine does that too. Glad I'm not alone.

    Can you get a picture of the area where you think the moisture is getting in? When I looked at my passenger door, it was wet up towards the top, not down in the front corner where the 3 pieces come together, so I'm wondering if it is the same issue.

    For now I just empty it out every so often.

    -Paul
  • frylock287frylock287 Member Posts: 6
    i also have the same problem. Believe its a besttop problem were instead of being sewn on the metal frame it is velcro which seems to soak up water. That our i haven't get it pulled tight enough around the frame but i pulled as hard as i could and i could only get the velcro part of the way attached. You could try the water repellent for material and just spray the crap out of the velcro and the whole inside part of the door dono if it will help or not just an idea. Let me know if you figure anything out.
  • frylock287frylock287 Member Posts: 6
    looking for more power out of my 4.0. Was wondering if anyone had any idea what i good system would be to get more power. I have already put a vorteck cold air intake and a throttle body spacer. on it but i was wondering about ram air superchargers or turbos. Didn't do much research yet but there is a web page the look ok. It is http://www.superchargerswarehouse.com/howsuperchargerswork.html
    if anyone has any thing i should know it would be a great help thank you
  • chicagojeep1chicagojeep1 Member Posts: 1
    the defoster unit cuts off with the blower set anything higher then the 2nd posiston. I can hear the vacum close when i switch it higher then the 2nd setting. There is plenty of heat, but won't come out of the defoster, which I need the high setting here in Chicago. the heat selector lever, moves roughly and basically on has a high very hot setting. A/c doesn't work at all (agian do big deal here in Chicago). I bought a used whole unit, but I want to make certain this would fix both problems before I open the dash up.

    Also, how do I replace this unit, if that works...I am not concerned about the airbag on the passendger side..after reading many posts.

    Thanks for any input.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Sounds like the actuator door between defrost and vent is not working properly. The slide controls on the 97 are mechanical and probably pretty easy to fix if it is just the controller.

    However, if you plan on getting back there behind the dash, it will NOT be as easy and you REALLY need a factory service manual to guide you.

    -Paul
  • billy3274billy3274 Member Posts: 1
    My 99 wrangler 2.5L starts with high idle and after 2 or 3 sec. idle goes down and is very very rough. and sometimes dies out. What do I do. I replaced both o2 sen. I am getting great fuel pressure. plugs and wires are new. I love my jeep but this is driving me nuts.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    No codes being thrown?

    Perhaps the Idle arm controller. Perhaps you have a stuck throttle cable? If my hand throttle for my offroading gets stuck, it'll do that. I've also seen my gas pedal get stuck in the full down position while driving on occasion. Just have to tap it to get it to unstick. Mac, any suggestions on what may cause the gas pedal to stick down like that?

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    So does the rough idle remain, or does it clear up when warmed up?
    I'd be surprised if you don't have any retained codes. Anyhow, I'd suspect either the TPS or IAT sensor, or the Idle Air Control.

    However, before you start throwing parts and money at it, I'd try cleaning the throttle body if you haven't done it in a while.
    Use a sensor safe throttle body cleaner, and don't forget the back and edges of the butterfly or the IAC passage.

    image
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Mac, any suggestions on what may cause the gas pedal to stick down like that?

    The most common cause (on all vehicles) is a floormat catching the side of the pedal.
    Other than that you just need to carefully examine the linkage from the pedal to the throttle body.
    It helps to have someone else operate the throttle slowly while you observe.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles