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Comments
However, that code can also come upo if the battery has been recently disconnected too.
Are you sure it was the muffler? While it could be a loose baffle, those are also the symptoms of a bad cat.
-Paul
please help
For the rattling, you may want to open up your dash and reach in there. You MAY have dirt/rocks, something in there that fell in while top was down/off. Those telescopic mirrors and a flashlight may help you look further down into the ventilation ducts.
-Paul
i set a few traps, caught a few, and it stopped... the rattling has stopped...
However, to be on the safe side you should check for codes. AutoZone will do it free if you don't have your own reader.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
-Paul
That's a shame, but it doesn't describe anything to which a meaningful answer can be given.
Where is the wiring for the heat or maybe the core?? under the dash or under the hood?
Most of the wiring for the HVAC is in the dash, though some is in the engine compartment.
The heater core is located inside the HVAC housing behind the dash.
cant find an outline or manual anywhere on the internet.
I can help you with that, go here: Jeep Manuals
-Paul
No, although I'm sure it must happen occasionally; and you're correct, it's not a fused circuit.
My first choice would be to look at the circuit board and see if it was something obvious and easy to repair (or have repaired), like a blown circuit ribbon that could easily be soldered.
Next, I would consider fitting a used instrument cluster (which must be from an '03).
There's one on eBay at the moment for $200.
If that option wasn't available to me I'd purchase a new cluster from one of the many online Mopar dealers. It's part # 56047016AB and seems to sell for around $580.
Finally, if you tell your current dealer that's what you're going to do he may also sell you the cluster at a competitive price.........and of course you need to replace that faulty switch (part #56007249 / MSRP $21.00).
ANY HELP ON THIS --- WE ARE STUMPED ??????????
IF THERE IS NO AIR IN THE LINE ------ WHAT SHOULD WE CHECK NEXT ?? ONLY 93K MI. AND NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS BEFORE THIS ????
THANKS
I have cleaned my pins exactly once on my 97 and I've had NO problems, other than the gas gauge going up/down, but that is due to the sending unit in the tank itself. I'm too lazy to worry about that - it's correct 95% of the time.
-Paul
Please don't SHOUT!
You could check that the pedal still engages the master cylinder push rod, and that the slave cylinder is still properly located and connected to the release fork.
However, personally I'd take it back to the mechanic to let him take care of it.
-Paul
Any help would be appreciated !!!
Thanks
You can monitor your fuel level by mileage, assuming you have a rough idea of your mpg.
APPRECIATE THE INFO !!!!
From what I understand, the alternator runs to the computer chip then relays to the battery to recharge it. The jeep starts up fine (so long as the battery has juice) but the battery will not keep a charge.
Yes, the alternator works just fine. I believe its the computer chip that is the culprit.
My question however is does anyone have any idea's on how to perhaps by pass the computer chip and connect the alternator directly to the battery to recharge?? Could it be possible to fit a GM alternator on the Jeep b/c those alternators have everything on them that is needed to connect directly to the battery to recharge it. Any idea's or solutions would be greatly appreciated.
ps. I know I can send off my current computer chip and get it fixed for around $350 + tax.
Mac?????
-Paul
Kind of, but the PCM doesn't handle the full alternator current. It receives an input from the alternator's secondary rotor field and its ground, then using additional inputs from the battery voltage sensor and line voltage it regulates the alternator output by cycling the ground path to control the strength of the rotor's magnetic field.
While it's possible that the EVC (Electronic Voltage Control) circuit in the PCM may have failed, it's far more likely that the fault lies in the wiring between the PCM and the alternator, either an open circuit (broken connection or bad fuse), a short, a high resistance connection, or a bad ground.
First you need to check for codes, which may point the direction to the problem.
However, to answer your question, it's possible in theory although the PCM will permanently be showing charging codes. I've never done it though.
Assuming there were no codes found then the most likely cause of the airbag light and corresponding 'check' light is a failed or failing clockspring. This also often has the effect of causing the horn and cruise to work intermittently or not at all.
The clockspring is actually a long flat connecting cable wound like the mainspring in any clockwork mechanism, and it's contained in a cassette housed in the steering wheel. This enables electrical contact to be maintained between the steering wheel and the vehicle while the wheel is being turned.
It's easily replaced, but it's critical that you disconnect the battery for at least five minutes to allow the firing capacitors for the airbags to discharge before you start disassembly.
That's odd because the '97 model uses a different OBD standard that displays two digit codes. However, you can easily display them without a code reader.
To determine which Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) are stored in the PCM of your '97 TJ turn the ignition key to the "On" position three times in succession (i.e., On, Off, On, Off, On), within five seconds
The Malfunction Indicator (Check Engine) Lamp will flash the appropriate number of times to indicate the DTC number, with a short pause between the first and second digits (e.g., 2 flashes of the MIL, followed by a short pause, followed by 5 more flashes, indicates error code 25)
The appropriate DTC will also be displayed in the odometer window
Note: All DTCs consist of 2 digits. If more than one DTC is stored in the PCM's memory, the procedure above will display all codes in succession. Regardless of how many codes are stored, Code 55 will always be the final code to be displayed. Code 55 indicates the "completion of the fault code display on the Check Engine lamp".
Post what you get by this method and I'll look to see if they correspond to the P codes you've got.
Good to see mac's still here. Did Tom disappear?
Tom is still around, but sounds like he's not having much luck with his ride.
His Impala that is, not the Jeep.
tsjay, "Long term reliability of the Impala" #1, 20 Apr 2010 6:02 pm
-Paul
Man, they must be having a snowball fight in you-know-where...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I own a 2001 Wrangler. Never had any problems til now. I get in and try to start it, but I just hear 2 rapid clicks when I turn the key, nothing else. Trying to jump it gets nowhere.
I get it towed to a local Jeep repair place. After 2 days, they finally tell me a piece is broken in the steering column, and that piece isn't made any more. They said they will have to custom order a whole new column, cost 500 dollars and take another 5 days to do.
This sounds mega fishy to me, but what else can I do?
-Paul
Take it to an accredited Jeep dealership or to a reputable independent repair shop.