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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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  • hswintekhswintek Member Posts: 12
    2001 WRANGLER SAT ON EMPTY FOR 4 WKS. PUT IN 6 GAL. AND IT REGISTERED FULL ( 19 GAL. CAPACITY ) GUAGE STAYS ON FULL . WHEN GASSING UP IT TAKES 10 MIN. TO PUT IN 3 GAL. --- IT KEEPS OVERFLOWING WHEN IT SHOULD NOT???

    ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS !!!!

    THANKS
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    First, please don't SHOUT!!! ( All caps are also harder to read.)
    Seems like you have a fuel gauge sender problem. You can either replace the sender, which means dropping the tank to access it, or you can track your fuel level by mileage using the odometer or trip meter.

    My '99 with a 19 gallon tank will shut off the fuel pump nozzle with three gallons to go. It then takes me an extra three or four minutes of careful squeezing to get those last three gallons in (although it does seem like ten minutes :) ).
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    My 97 TJ is the same way. The gauge is more like a pinball flipper - it goes up/down all the time at random times. I just track mileage by the trip odometer. Not worth it to me to replace at this time. :)

    -Paul
  • jeepriajeepria Member Posts: 2
    Ok, I'm really new to where I live, and don't have my faithful mechanic to go to. I think the mechanic I found on the BBB is not the one for me.

    Symptoms: My 2000 Wrangler (4.0L) drives and sounds fine. When it gets up to full temp, the oil pressure drops to 0 only when I'm idle at a stop light. Then after a few more minutes of driving, it overheats. Turning the heater on brings the temp right back down. I'm not hearing, feeling, or smelling anything unusual.

    The mechanic says: cam bearing going bad...need a new engine. This is based on running the Jeep for and hour (how does a bad engine run for an hour?) and confirming what I just told you. Then they did some research online. That's all.

    My faithful mechanic says over the phone: start by changing the sending unit and put 5quarts of 20/50 in it since I just moved from the mild East coast to the mid west where its 100 degrees. He says start there and see what happens first. He also advises that the inline 6 engine in my Jeep is pretty solid and there's other things that could be causing it.

    Any other suggestions? I'm trying this out for the first time to see if it helps.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Where in the MW are you?

    Different oil may help. The sending unit may be part of the problem.

    As far as overheating, are you seeing any coolant leaks? Doing a coolant flush and swapping a new thermostat ($10.00 at Autozone) wouldn't be bad to do ANYWAY and would help rule that part out. Other possible issue on the overheating is the water pump ($32.00 at AutoZone).

    A Haynes manual will walk you through all these basics and most you would need is some basic tools and time.

    I would HIGHLY recommend looking in your area for a 4x4 club site. Get on there and ask around. Being a Jeep Girl, you'll likely have LOTS of helpful guys just waiting to help that will be local to you.

    BTW, your best assessment is likely about the mechanic. Find another. Ask friends, coworkers, etc about people they use. But you will find that the TJ's are pretty easy to work on with the right information handy. I do 99% of my own work on mine and I didn't really know much about vehicles prior to that.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    My faithful mechanic says over the phone: start by changing the sending unit and put 5quarts of 20/50 in it since I just moved from the mild East coast to the mid west where its 100 degrees. He says start there and see what happens first. He also advises that the inline 6 engine in my Jeep is pretty solid and there's other things that could be causing it.

    Sounds like your phone guy has a better handle on it than the local dummy.
    If you're not losing coolant and the Jeep seems to be running fine then you can relax a little.
    Replace the oil pressure sender and the coolant temp sender, change the oil and filter and see where you're at.
  • lisa2010lisa2010 Member Posts: 1
    if you tow your jeep with a tow dolly will it blow up your transmission? thank you
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    No. If you're concerned, you can disconnect the driveshaft. But you can put the transmission and transfer case in neutral and you should be okay.

    What does the manual say?

    -Paul
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    This has been happening for a few years but it's starting to irritate now that we are in south Florida. When the A/C runs for awhile, it starts to drip water very slowly onto the floorboards. Meanwhile, the fan is still working but not all the air is getting through so you have to keep going up a grade to get the same flow.

    It's like it's icing up or something in there? Anyone else have this? the freon recharge seems to have stuck so far, but this problem predates that.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like the condensate drain is blocked or its 90 degree elbow is missing from the firewall.
    If this has been happening for a long time it may never have been fitted; it's part # 56000724AB.
    Even with the elbow fitted, air pressure keeps a certain amount of condensate backed up in the HVAC housing and when you park and it all drains out it looks like a major coolant leak! :D
    It's especially noticeable with the humidity here in FL.

    The reduction in airflow sounds like the diverter doors inside the HVAC unit aren't being properly positioned.
    They're operated by vacuum actuators so you most likely have a low system vacuum probably caused by a leak, although it could also be a bad actuator or control switch.
  • d0hb0yd0hb0y Member Posts: 1
    Saw some earlier posts from a year ago or so saying the vacuum hose is the culprit, the only issue is I havn't the slightest clue where this is on my 2005 Jeep Unlimited, help would be appreciated.
    Thanks.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    Well, the ac blasts out fine initially, then as the water starts dripping the airflow is gradually reducing requiring the fan to be turned up. And the air gets more moist and less cold, like there is ice blocking the flow. Don't know, not worrying about it right now.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    Just pulled one of these out of my 98 yesterday: http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifolds/Jeep/Cherokee/-/-/1998

    I bought it with the lifetime warranty, and it cracked after five years on the welds down low. They gave me the replacement for free, though I spent $279 having it put in yesterday. New free header of questionable quality won out over the pricey alternative, but if you are thinking of one of these do consider it,
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The price of the replacement header seems reasonable at $99 especially with a lifetime warranty, and it lasted longer than the original Chrysler ones did.

    However, unless all the mounting bolts were broken, it's less than an hour's work to replace the exhaust manifold so that labor charge seems to be extraordinarily high.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Well, the ac blasts out fine initially, then as the water starts dripping the airflow is gradually reducing requiring the fan to be turned up. And the air gets more moist and less cold, like there is ice blocking the flow.

    If it is icing up, which is possible, then unfortunately that's usually the sign of a failing compressor, although it could just be a low charge.
    The only real way to tell is to get some gauges on it and check it out.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    There was a machining charge, they had to machine down the intake to make everything even before installing.

    $100 for a exhaust manifold replacement? I never got quoted less than $400 in labor in NC last time. I thought under $300 was a gift.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There was a machining charge, they had to machine down the intake to make everything even before installing.

    I have never come across a Wrangler head that needed the exhaust and inlet ports machined for warping. I've only ever seen it a couple of times on the main compression area.
    However, nothing is impossible, so in that case the cost was more reasonable considering the extra labor for removing and refitting the head, machining charge, new head gasket set, etc., etc.

    $100 for a exhaust manifold replacement? I never got quoted less than $400 in labor in NC last time. I thought under $300 was a gift.

    Dealerships around here (FL) charge around $100 an hour, independents around $45-$65, so I would have thought $100 max as it's barely an hour's work; unless of course the head had to be removed as yours did, but that's a very unusual circumstance.
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    I think goducks1 meant that the intake manifold itself had to be machined.
    I've NEVER heard of that...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    yes, they machined the intake and header to the same level from what I recall, receipt is around here somewhere. Shop rate was $75 an hour, and figure another $20 or so for the gasket. Bill was around $250 pre tax I think?

    Moving stuff out of the way to get at the header and putting it back later, the grunt work involved...I still don't see this as an hour job. I recall people here quoting high three figures for replacements that include the header.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    edited July 2010
    yes, they machined the intake and header to the same level from what I recall,

    Sorry, I misunderstood. However I have to say I've never heard of that being necessary on a Wrangler either. The inlet and exhaust manifolds, while attached using the same fixings, are completely independent of each other. Machining one wouldn't affect its relationship to the other.

    However, I'm not trying to start a disagreement and if the job has been done satisfactorily and you're happy with it, that's all that matters.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    the only quarrel I have is with Chrysler for doing such a lousy job on the header to begin with. Wonder what ever happened with that class action. My original header looked like crinkled up wrapping paper when they took it out.

    1Aauto honored the warranty, kudos to them on that.
  • nandnautonandnauto Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I just bought a 99 Jeep Wrangler Sport with a 4.0L engine with 129k on it. It will not go over 50 mph and it has what seems like a miss every now and again. To get it to go 50 mph the gas peddle is all the way on the floor. It runs fine at idle and around 40 mph. It just seems like it should have more get up and go than what it has. When I put it in 5Th gear and have it floored it drops from 50 mph to 40 mph instantly. It has a lift kit and some bigger tires and rims on it I figured that would hurt its acceleration and top end speed, but this is definitely not right.

    I took it to a mechanic shop and he hooked up a computer and it doesn't have any codes that come up besides a 0-2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2. He said that, that sensor would not be causing this problem. If you have any ideas or suggestions please write me back. Thanks
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    What size tires? I'm thinking the tires may be part of the culprit. Bigger tires without a regearing of the differentials in the axles will impact top speed. But even then, there may be other issues at hand.

    Have you done a basic tune up by replacing spark plugs and wires? Fuel injector maintenance? Greased the greasable points? Changed the oil? Changed fluids in the axles?

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Tire size as Paul said, especially if it's combined with the original 3.07:1 axle ratio rather than the optional 3.73:1, can have a major effect. What size are they?
    Obviously you've checked for a blocked air filter, but have you checked for a blocked fuel filter or under-performing fuel pump?
  • jakebrake49jakebrake49 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 6 cyl auto. Shortly after I got it home, about 100 mile drive, I noticed the oil pressure drop dramatically when it was warm. I went through the search you are doing. At idle oil pressure would drop to near zero. Seldom did the oil sensor light come on. I had the oil pump changed, the water pump changed, i checked the sensor and it was a real temp. Then I got a posting from a guy that told me to treat the pressure as a prewarning and don't get excited until I can't get 3 psi. He said I have a redundant system and it depends where they put the sensor, what we get. This is the Jeep requirement. I always worry, but I have had no problems.

    I switched to 10w50 and the pressure didn't drop as much, 5 psi. I read about using Lucas oil. I now use 4 qts 5 w 50 and 1 qt of lucas oil conditioner. I still see the pressure drop, but generally about 15 psi. If it does, I increase idle and it comes up.

    Early in the hunt, I found one guy who told me I only need about 3 psi. and one that said to treat as an idiot light. These are both good advice.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    edited September 2010
    I use Mobil 1 10W30 synthetic in my 2.5L TJ (97) and it works just fine. Never have an oil pressure issue.

    -Paul
  • jakebrake49jakebrake49 Member Posts: 8
    I also have a 2000 4 liter. oil pressure drops to near zero on idle. I rev it slightl and oil pressure comes up, no idiot light or alarm.

    I switched to 10w50 and it was a little better. I drained one quart and put in a quart of Lucas Oil. Oil pressure rarely gets below 10 - 15. I just drive it and watch the oil pressure.

    I would like to try all synthetic oil that won't break down.
  • brionybriony Member Posts: 1
    wow my jeep is doing exactly the same thing!! i'm just trying to find what an o2 sensor is and i'll try the same!! what a weird thing, i was about to spend $300 on a new fuel pump and filter!!
  • cadaltoncadalton Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 wrangler sport it has had a high idle since we got it and now it is starting to die sometimes when I put it in gear. Any ideas
  • iroc65iroc65 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all my stepson has a 98 wrangler that gave him a throttle positioning code, the Jeep was hesitating and skipping we changed the sensor and it still skipped, code did not clear. We also changed the plugs cap rotor and wires ran the same. My son works at a service station and his boss read on the repair sites that the clockspring circuit is also part of the T.P. circuit so they disconnected the clockspring wiring harness which is the horn and airbag too now it runs fine but we have an airbag light. Has anyone heard of this a new clockspring is $300.00 bucks any suggestions. :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    edited November 2010
    Hello all my stepson has a 98 wrangler that gave him a throttle positioning code, the Jeep was hesitating and skipping we changed the sensor and it still skipped, code did not clear............... they disconnected the clockspring.........

    Knowing the code he got would help.
    The clockspring allows the horn, airbags, and cruise controls if he has them, to stay connected when the wheel is turned.

    AFAIK there is no connection between any of those and the TPS, other than that the TPS signal is part of the information used by the PCM for regulation of the cruise control.
    However, the TPS circuit is not part of the clockspring circuit, and whether it's connected or not should have no effect on the TPS or its behavior.

    You may have a bad new TPS (unlikely but possible), it may have been installed incorrectly (more likely), or it may have never been needed at all (much more likely).

    Without knowing the code it's impossible to tell, but the symptoms could also be indicative of an issue with the fuel system or the MAP sensor, or it could be as simple as a dirty throttle body that needs cleaning.
  • pebbiepebbie Member Posts: 4
    My wrangler has been acting strange, sometimes stalls when I stopped at a light, sometimes doesn't want to move when I accelerate. I changed the TPS and it is still the same any ideas?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Have you checked for codes yet?
  • pebbiepebbie Member Posts: 4
    No, I didn't check the codes, I din't think codes show unless the check engine light was on and it's not. Do they show anyway?
  • kiser91kiser91 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 tj when i bought it the radiator blew while driving it home i bought a used one at a salvage yard. it had a leak and they have an "no refunds just exchanges" policy... what are some parts that would be good for me to purchase with my credit line??

    Also my oil pressure gauge was reading low so my mechanics put in a quart of lucas oil and it is doing better... but when i idle it goes to 0 but goes back up when i start moving... any ideas??
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    The OEM radiator with the metal/plastic seam is NOT a good solution. Your best bet to solve the problem is to get a good all metal radiator from some place like Radiator Barn. I put one in back in 2003 and have not leaked a DROP of coolant since then.

    As for your oil. Your oil sending unit may be on the fritz or you just need a good oil change. Sounds like things may be a bit gunked up. So run with new oil and perhaps add a cleaning agent if there are any for oil, then change again in 3000 miles.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It depends on the type of code and the cause. If the light comes on because a code is set, but it's the type of problem that allowes the light to be extinguished after a certain number of satisfactory starts, then the code itself should still be retained by the PCM as a 'stored code'.
  • kiser91kiser91 Member Posts: 2
    i solved the radiator problem and ill see what those things will do.

    What are some ideas on parts to get from a junkyard?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Good ones, not broken ones. :)

    For major safety or driveline stuff, I tend to go new. But for accessories like switch bezels, body parts (windshield frame, cowl, fender), junkyards are great. I have a good rapport with the local yard that tends to have a LOT of TJ stuff so they let me wander the yard and see what I need.

    -Paul
  • pebbiepebbie Member Posts: 4
    Hello,
    I checked for codes, there wasn't any still lost
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ..........sometimes doesn't want to move when I accelerate.

    Could you explain that a little more clearly?
    For instance, is it from a stop or while moveing? Does the engine rev up but you don't move or go any faster, or does the engine speed remain the same when you put your foot on the gas?
  • pebbiepebbie Member Posts: 4
    Both would be true, when I'm at a stop the vehicle feels like it wants to move, when i'm driving and I want to accelerate nothing happens, the engine doesn't rev it just doesn't seem to respond. So the engine seems to remain the same. I looked up as much as I could find and everything seemed to point to TPS so I changed it and nothing was different.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .................................everything seemed to point to TPS so I changed it and nothing was different.

    That would be true of the MAP sensor as well, but faults with either of them will usually throw up a code.
    It's beginning to sound like it's fuel related rather than electrical.
    Possibly water contaminated gas, a partially blocked fuel filter, or maybe a failing fuel pump.
    If it's any of those then the tank will have to be dropped to access the pump and filter, and to drain the final amount of gas.
  • hswintekhswintek Member Posts: 12
    2001 wrangler sport Thinking of replacing soft top with :
    Safari Header top
    Windjammer
    Duster Deck Cover
    Question: How water tight would it be?
    What problems to expect?
    Also, any recommendations on cheap replacement of rear deck carpet.
    Any ideas appreciated
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Not very watertight unless you get the wraparound windjammer and have the door surrounds.

    Recommendations on rear deck carpet? Line it with Monstaliner or Line-X.

    -Paul
  • dlesterjr47dlesterjr47 Member Posts: 1
    had new spark plugs put in yesterday today will not start the battery is good could it be the spark plugs
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    had new spark plugs put in yesterday today will not start the battery is good could it be the spark plugs

    Highly unlikely. What year, what engine?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Did you keep the wires going to the right plugs? If you didn't plug the wires into the right plugs, it won't fire properly.

    If it worked before you changed the plugs and not after, you apparently didn't do something right.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    edited November 2010
    Did you keep the wires going to the right plugs?

    That was my first thought, but as no details were given as to engine and year we don't know if was a model with a coil rail.
  • rebel99757rebel99757 Member Posts: 3
    hey folks, :sick:

    once again I am turning to the people of the most trustworthy repair forum I know for guidance in things vehicular maintenance. Yesterday I ventured to replace the thermostat on my 2000 wrangler with the 4.0 6cyl. After several cheap busted duralast gaskets (curse them) i finally got the housing to seal to the block without spewing antifreeze everywhere. then I went to put the belt back on and ran it through all the pulleys (flat to flat ribbed to ribbed) and when I went to put the last part on, i slipped it right over the idler pulley without any trouble at all. now there is a good inch or two of play in it and when i crank the engine nothing turns but the crank pulley, considering the belt wont catch. i thought, hey maybe i stretched the belt out when i pulled it off, so i went and got a brand new one. same story.
    now Ive tried several different configurations, and none work. also the only one that makes sense is the one that I used originally where i still have some play, also it looks as though the belt would rub between the idler and the tensioner pulley.

    somebody please help me with this, seeing as i need my jeep back ASAP, im a lesser human being without it.
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