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Comments
Some 2000's had the later type and some the earlier. Which is your's?
If you had the earlier type then the answer is simple, if it's the sprung type then it's most likely you've just misrouted the belt.
Also consider ebay...
Local paper's online section perhaps?
Craigslist (you'll get a lot of scammers here though, but it's free).
-Paul
-Paul
Your problem could easily be a blown fuse or broken wire.
when i get into my 98 wrangler cold, it runs great for as long as i want. when i park it, go in somewhere for a while and then when i come out, start up, it will drive ok for about 10 t0 15 seconds then it hesitates, splutters, pops, stutters, just like there was a choke messing up... after about 30 seconds to a minute of that, it straightens out and runs like it should...
i changed out plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor... that helped a little, but it still does it...
i've done some reading on the web and think maybe there's an O2 sensor that can cause this? what do you guys think?
Several things may cause this. For myself it was a Snow plow, too much air pressure against it at high speeds.
For you it may be something different. Towing a trailer, improper tire size to gear ratio, other accessories attached to the outside of the vehicle causing wind resistance, etc. or a faulty safety device in the trans.
Hope this helps.
I have a 2004 wrangler with 120K mi. The only repairs I have had to make on it so far were at 80K mi, the shocks and brakes. at 100K the water pump, and from what i see now, at 124K the rear main seal leak, and this transmission problem. I would have to say that this has been a very trouble free vehicle for me. And hope that your luck will be better with your next one.
Although not necessarily relevent in this case, it's also a good idea to mention which engine you have.
If you want a WAG, then before investigating the O2 sensors I'd check out the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) sensor. It's on the inlet manifold.
There's also the possibility that the resistor circuit is fused separately from the direct high speed one, so check your handbook to see if the blower circuit has two fuses.
Finally, it's possible that the switch is faulty, but this is the least likely cause.
In most cases this is not a very difficult item to replace if you know some basics and have patience. I do not recommend replacing only the bad resistor as the problem could reoccur sooner than you may like.
But as always in any electrical situation... Always check all of your fuses first.
The real issue is however it is an automatic, I know I know what youre all thinking. However driving it is easy but I dont want to bust it up. With the command trac system consisting of 2H-4H-N-4L I have been switching from 2H to 4H when the vehicle has been stopped, is this bad for the vehicle? I just started thinking that maybe it needs to be changed while in movement like a manual vehicle... so i started playing around with it. I pulled it back to the N-4L area however it was stuck and hard to pull... is this because my Jeep isnt in the best of shape? It had been stuck in the snow and while trying to drive it out I tried switching it from 4H to 4L... as the car lurched forward and was no longer stuck in the snow... IT SHUT OFF! Did it stall? Long questions I know but if anyone can point me in the right direction Id truly appreciate it, Im lost and it's only an automatic!
Thank you
Z
You can change from 2H to 4H while stationary or on the move.
The best way to engage 4L is to stop and put the main transmission in N, then use the transfer case lever to select 4L.
Engage D in the main transmission then drive off.
As to whether you stalled it or not, I don't know I wasn't there.
It would be surprising if the the two were unconnected.
Three possibilities spring to mind:
1: The new flywheel wasn't checked for runout after it was installed.
The tiniest speck of grit or rust on the mating surfaces where it's bolted to the crankshaft is the usual culprit, and if it's not entirely square to the crank then there will be a vibration.
2: Similar issue with the clutch cover/pressure plate. Either something preventing it from sitting flat on the flywheel surface, or it's been distorted buy an incorrect torque sequence.
3: The front propshaft was separated at the slip joint and replaced out of phase (same for the rear if you an SYE kit on the t/c and a rear propshaft with a sliding joint).
Whatever, let the dealer take care of it; it's their issue to fix, not yours.
When the U-Joint starts to go bad, you will get noticeable vibrations that vary depending on your speed.
Your problem could be completely unrelated to the clutch work. And it is an easy diagnosis and cheap fix. I would look there first.
It could, but it's been my experience that unless the two issues are entirely unrelated, i.e. "since having the tires rotated the windshield wipers don't park correctly", it's usually the case that the last item worked on is somehow the cause of the problem that appeared immediatly afterwards.
When the motor is cold...starts and runs like a brand new motor.
Let it sit for 15 minutes and its real hard to start. Real strong gas smell. Just like it's flooding it's self out.
I have changed every sensor on the motor. I have changed the plugs, plug wires, distributer and even all four injectors.
I am about ready to try a FOR SALE sign next.
I love the Jeep except for this one thing.
Anybody have anything or comment or fix for this aggrevating problem????
I suspect you built up tension in the drivetrain while in 4WD which wasn't or hasn't been released yet.
You'll have to explain 'acting weird' for me to make a better guess, but off the top of my head I'd say the transfer case is still in 4WD or else something is damaged.
Have you checked for codes?
I know I can shift into 4 WD while driving under 55 mi an Hour but do I have to have it in neutral when I shift? That seems odd to me.
Can I put it into 4 WD while parked? Do I have to have it in neutral or press the clutch in or both?
Same for 4W lo. Can I be completely stopped or must I be moving 2 or 3 mi. an hour? Do I have to have it in neutral and press the clutch in? For instance if I am stuck in a snow bank and cannot move, it is hard to get to 2 or 3 mi and hour.
To engage 4L (low) Jeep say you can do so while rolling slowly with the transmission in neutral and firm use of the transfer case lever.
Although it will engage 99% of the time, it will also make a horrible graunching noise 99% of the time too.
The kindest way (for the transfer case) is to stop, put the transmission into neutral and turn off the engine. Then pull up on the t/c lever to silently engage 4L, start the engine, engage second or third gear and drive off.
Again, I still think the problem is the t/c linkage.
How were the driveline angles compensated for, motor mount spacers or lowering the transmission?
Either one will require either adjustment of the linkage, or the addition of a kit to extend it.
Please help.
I'd guess the problem with the engine losing power and stalling is related to the fuel pump, which lives in the fuel tank and relies on being submerged in fuel for cooling.
Already fourteen years old if it's the original pump, it would have been heavily stressed when you ran out of gas. People who run the tank nearly empty on a regular basis usually experience a dramatically reduced pump life.
I suggest that you replace the pump module, which also contains the fuel gauge sender (I doubt the gauge itself is actually broken) and kill two birds with one stone.
When you engine was stalling through lack of gas it would have been turning slower and slower. Among other things, oil pressure is related to engine speed, so as the speed dropped so would the pressure.
At idle it would be acceptable for your oil pressure to be as low as 5-10psi, and with the engine warm at highway speeds 40psi would be reasonable.
Thanks for the write-up. I've been putting off dropping the tank and fixing the fuel gauge sensor but your right, I might as well get both fixed. Now I just need to find a couple hundred bucks.
Will respond when I fix it.
2. my jeep seems to shake when i reach the speeds of 45-50, i have gotten new tires and alignment and it was fine then after a while it started again
3. sputters when i try to take off in lower gear
the first was linked to the fuel pump/filter inside the tank... i'd drive for 20 to 30 minutes, it would begin to splutter and pop, rock and roll... and then eventually stop altogether... after a whle, it would restart and i'd continue on. i found, that on the bottom of my tank, there is an extruded circle on the rear right bottom corner... i'd thump that, and it would run again for a while...
the second problem was an O2 sensor... the diagnostic computer would read correct, however, the wrangler wouldn't run worth a dime... i had it in and out of the garage a half dozen times when i was turned onto the local jeep "guru"... he fixed the problem, said sometimes the o2 sensor would read correctly, but still be malfunctioning, he described a manual test for it, but me not being a mechanic, didn't understand... or really care, i just wanted it to run.
it hasn't missed a lick since...
good luck!