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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Glad to hear you got it fixed, and yes it is unusual on a new vehicle. I'd suspect that only one rotor was bad, but quite properly they replaced them both.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Amazing what happens when the warranty expires! :sick:

    Could be one (or several) of many things. First step is to remove the diff cover and make an inspection of both the components, and the oil that drains out.

    Suspects in your problem will be worn bearings, worn gears, worn clutch plates (if you have an LSD/Trac Loc), low or contaminated oil.

    You have had the axles serviced as required haven't you?
  • glassgirlglassgirl Member Posts: 8
    Okay after 2 days in the shop they said "nothing" was wrong and that I am getting 16.9 miles to the gallon. We shall see. They must have done something if I am going to get that many miles.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Big difference between 6-7 and 16.9. Did they say how they arrived at that incredibly exact figure? At least it should be easy to see if things have changed. Did they fix your oil leak as well?
  • dockmonkeydockmonkey Member Posts: 1
    My 93 wrangler seems to have the same leaking problem as your 89. The water is actually coming from the heater ducting. There is an easy fix though. There is a drain hose located on the passenger side of the firewall in the engine compartment. This hoze sometimes plugs up with debris. Just pull off the hose and make sure that there is nothing in it. I live in Oregon too and it is amazing where you sometimes find pine needles.
  • glassgirlglassgirl Member Posts: 8
    This is how they said they fixed it. They put it up on the racks and "ran" it for about 100 miles, after writing the mileage down. They said nothing was leaking anywhere and they couldn't find anything wrong and that their estimation was around 16.9 mpg. They filled it back up and sent it back to me, we will see how it goes. I have the mileage wrote down myself. Nice that they didn't charge me huh?
  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Member Posts: 250
    Thing they did to get the gas mileage is so dumb I can't even think of anything to say about it. Maybe something will come to me later. Meanwhile, find another place to get it serviced.

    Terry
  • mgainesmgaines Member Posts: 1
    Took my Jeep (2005 Wrangler, Auto.) to the dealer due to the check engine light coming on. I would bog down around 4.5 rpm under load( usually going up a grade/hill) took them a week but I got it back yesterday. They replaced the cam shaft, so far it's gravy however now if I shift into reverse it dies and my a/c only blows out the defrost vents ( really sucks average temp where I live is 100 deg. + and it's getting hot now) so any suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to know if I would be able to do any of the work myself, I wasn't very impressed with the "service" from the local service dept. Thanks again.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Thing they did to get the gas mileage is so dumb I can't even think of anything to say about it.

    You've got that right; what a bunch of morons. I bet those imbeciles measure precipitation by weighing a pile of dirt before and after a rain shower...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ......however now if I shift into reverse it dies and my a/c only blows out the defrost vents........

    I'll take a chance and assume that the a/c isn't a problem only in reverse. ;)

    It sounds like a vacuum problem, as they shouldn't have been anywhere near the HVAC unit to replace the camshaft. Could be a damaged vac hose, or one improperly replaced. (Vacuum actuators are used to control the airflow direction doors in the HVAC unit).

    As for dying in reverse, it could be connected with the aforementioned leak, or it could be other things. It's possible that you'll have fault codes which will help with the diagnosis, and you can that checked out at Autozone for free.

    Unless you can spot a loose vacuum hose under the hood, I'd let the dealer take care of it to preserve your warranty coverage. If he messes up it's Jeep's problem, if you mess up it's yours!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I was going to say "Words fail me!", but they don't............I just can't say them here! :mad:

    RUN, as fast as you can to another dealer.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I bet those imbeciles measure precipitation by weighing a pile of dirt before and after a rain shower...

    That would require some thought. It's more likely they would just count the number of turkeys looking up with their mouths open. ;)

    tidester, host
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    That would require some thought. It's more likely they would just count the number of turkeys looking up with their mouths open.

    Good point! LOL!!!
  • mmitschmmitsch Member Posts: 7
    I was driving home tonight and when I went to change grears I lost tension in the clutch pedal and couldn't change gears. I managed to get the Jeep home by shutting the engine off, manually changing to 2nd, and then starting the Jeep up and going (couldn't change while running). Anybody ever had this happen? Any clues as to what might be wrong or what I should check? It's a 99 Sahara with a 4.0l 6 cyl. and 5 speed transmission.

    Let me know.

    Thanks!

    Mike
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like a failure of the clutch hydraulics, though it could be something as simple as the pedal becoming disconnected from the master cylinder. It's unlikely to be the clutch itself as it wasn't slipping at all. Shouldn't be too expensive to fix.
  • mmitschmmitsch Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the response! Do you have any schematic or know a site where I can get a diagram or drawing of what and where I check for the pedal connections. I am unsure of hydraulics, but the feel of the problem when it happened is like a cable broke.

    At any rate, I really appreciate you help and kind response!

    Mike
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Can't post a '.pdf' here, which would be needed to show the diagrams, but you can get access to the full Factory Workshop Manual online for a year for $25 from AllData.

    Here's how the FSM describes the hydraulics:

    "HYDRAULIC LINKAGE COMPONENTS
    The hydraulic linkage consists of a clutch master
    cylinder with integral reservoir, a clutch slave cylinder
    and an interconnecting fluid line.
    The clutch master cylinder push rod is connected
    to the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder push rod is
    connected to the clutch release fork. The master cylinder
    is mounted on the driver side of the dash panel
    adjacent to the brake master cylinder and booster
    assembly. This positioning is similar for both left and
    right hand drive models."

    First check is to remove the master cylinder cap and see if you've lost fluid.
  • omega5omega5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 jeep wrangler and recently when ever I accelerate, in any gear, I hear a wierd pattering sound, if I had to describe it, it sounds like a childs bike who has a baseball card in the spokes, but muffled, and it continues evertime I depress the gas pedal. Are there any suggestions for what this problem could be?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    It sounds like it could be an exhaust leak.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yes it does. Didn't that model have some issues with cracked exhaust manifolds or did I just make that up?

    Anyway, exhaust leak is a very good guess.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    As an owner of a '98, I know all about the exhaust manifold issue! Didn't I read that it affected engines from something like '91? I could have that wrong, but I know it was a long time before they changed the design.

    Definitely check yours - mine sounded like what I think you are describing. We ended up ignoring it for probably a year, until it needed a smog check.
  • sickofmyvwsickofmyvw Member Posts: 2
    Hi All,
    Im thinking of buying a used Wrangler from someone in the area. Its a '98 Sport, and I dont know a hell of a lot else about it or its history. Drove it a little bit, it handled as I expected. Upon inspecting underneath I noticed a LOT of rust and corrosion on the brakes and calipers. Is this normal for wranglers to have these parts deteriorate? I get the impression that this car doesnt get driven very often, and sits for weeks at a time which Im sure doesnt help. But I was surpised to see this kind of corrosion. Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone else has seen this. I really dont know much about Jeeps, never bothered researching them, always liked them, and Im looking for something different than a boring road car. Thanks! :D
  • mmitschmmitsch Member Posts: 7
    Thanks SO much for your reply. Unfortunately my problem is a big one. I took my Jeep to our mechanic (he's trustworthy) and it springs had come off the friction plate (I think) and caused me clutch problems, etc., etc., etc.. It is at the doctor now and, with parts and labor, I guess it all will come to around $1,000 to fix. Started as a noise and now it's a financial boom!

    If you or anybody else knows how much clutch replacements usually run let me know (maybe I can negotiate it this sounds too much).

    Mike
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Anything other than light surface corrosion is not normal and obviously poses a safety risk. Good news is that re-manufactured Wrangler calipers aren't expensive.

    It could have been used in an area that salts the roads in the winter, or maybe it's been used on the beach.

    Wranglers definitely aren't boring though!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .....springs had come off the friction plate (I think) and caused me clutch problems.....

    Actually that doesn't make a lot of sense. If the springs on the friction plate had come adrift it would be very noisy but it shouldn't affect the pedal feel. If there was a problem with the spring on the pressure plate then the pedal might go the the floor, but the clutch would slip badly and you wouldn't be able to drive it. As I remember it, your problem was that the pedal went slack and the clutch wouldn't disengage, so you started it in second gear and drove slowly home.

    How was it diagnosed? The only real way to check the friction plate is to remove the transmission and strip the clutch assembly.

    Labor costs vary so much based on location and type of shop that I couldn't price it for you, apart from saying that $1K seems high. A complete clutch kit (pressure plate, friction plate, and release bearing) costs around $150, and labor should be around 4-5 hours. Your best bet is to make a few phone calls and get several estimates for fitting a complete replacement Wrangler clutch.
  • jt828jt828 Member Posts: 12
    can someone help me with some info on replacing the wheel bearing on drivers side front wheel i cannot figure out how to get everything apart 97 tj
    :sick:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    What you may be missing is that the bearing housing and hub are supplied as a complete assembly. Some people have managed to match the bearings and have them pressed in and out, but it has to be done with some precision and it isn't easy. However, there are non-OE hubs available that are better priced than at the dealer.

    Here's the FSM instructions:

    "HUB BEARING REMOVAL

    (1) Raise and support the vehicle.
    (2) Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
    (3) Remove the brake caliper, rotor and ABS wheel
    speed sensor, refer to Group 5 Brakes.
    (4) Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and axle
    hub nut.
    (5) Remove the hub bearing mounting bolts from
    the back of the steering knuckle. Remove hub bearing
    from the steering knuckle and off the axle shaft.

    INSTALLATION

    (1) Install the hub bearing and brake dust shield
    to the knuckle.
    (2) Install the hub bearing to knuckle bolts and
    tighten to 102 N·m (75 ft. lbs.).
    (3) Install the hub washer and nut. Tighten the
    hub nut to 237 N·m (175 ft. lbs.). Install the nut
    retainer and a new cotter pin.
    (4) Install the brake rotor, caliper and ABS wheel
    speed sensor, refer to Group 5 Brakes.
    (5) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
    (6) Remove support and lower the vehicle."

    The hardest part is usually removing the three bearing carrier mounting bolts.
  • sickofmyvwsickofmyvw Member Posts: 2
    Yeah, our roads are salted, but this looks like its really pretty bad. Ive asked around and have ben given a lot of conflicting info. one wrangler owner said his entire undercarraige is rusty, as wranglers are prone to rust. someone else said theyre supposed to be treated with something so the rust should be minimal. dangit, I dont know what to do. :mad:
  • csuttoncsutton Member Posts: 1
    I just took my 2003 jeep in to the shop for the same problem. The whole shifter is going to be replaced. I had to jeep mechanics look at it and they agreed that the tip of the shaft inside the shifter itself had broke off causing the shifter button not to push the locking pin down enough to allow it to shift. If you remove the cover itself which pops off around the gear shift you can slide the cover up the shaft and manually push the pin down with your thumb to get it into gear. The good news is that the whole shifter itself is only $45. The labor is quoted at $75. Hope this helps......
  • mvickmvick Member Posts: 2
    I own a '97 Wrangler with the 2.5L 4 cyl. While idling, driving with or without acceleration there is a NOTICEABLE hesitation in the engine. I got an engine light and had the guys at advance read it. Initially he said it was a cylinder 3 misfire. Then later the same day after replacing the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, it still ran like poop and showed another misfire (multiple cyl).
    HELP!!!!
    Thanks, Mike :confuse:
  • ozark200ozark200 Member Posts: 5
    Mac 24 You were right on in addressing this problem. Took Jeep to 2nd 5 Star Jeep dealer and aimed them at electrical solution. They found it in a corroded pick-up coil. Thank you a bunch.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    A misfire can also be caused by a faulty injector, oil contamination of the plug, worn rings, bad valve, coolant leak, gasket leak, worn cam lobe, bad cam follower, to name a few.

    On multiple cylinders it could also be a fuel problem (pump, filter, regulator, etc.), coil, either CPS, and so on.

    Reading and identifying the code is just the beginning of diagnosis.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Nice to know that my wild guesses are occasionally on target! :blush:

    Glad you got it fixed.
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    My first Jeep (a used '94) was from the New Jersey coast and there was pretty significant rust on it, even though it was ony 3 years old. So yes, they can pick up a lot of rust in a salty environment. It's a used car and obviously you have concerns about it just looking at it, so don't buy it.

    My '98 has some light surface corrosion on the underside but has lived most of its life on the West Coast so it's pretty minimal.
  • aubre81aubre81 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same promblem with my 01 wrangler, except I have pressure when I first hit the brakes and then the second time my brakes hit the floor. Did you find a solution to your problem and if so please help.
  • mvickmvick Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Mac, I have a friend who is really good with the diagnosing part. I will have have a look at all of these areas.
    Mike
  • kelly01kelly01 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 4-cyl 1991 Wrangler (manual trans.). Considering the age of it, it handles considerably well.

    HOWEVER, lately...I've been having a problem with it. I'm going to explain what it is doing the BEST I can.

    It doesn't do this ALL the time but...when I am in 3rd or 4th gear...it feels like it is about to lose power at times. It will start making this popcorn sound and sounds as if it's coming from under the drivers seat. If it does this while in 4th gear, it will stop if I change to a lower gear. But then again, after awhile...while in 3rd gear, it will start up again.

    I've talked to soooooo many different people about this and nobody has a clue what I'm talking about. And of course, it ONLY happens when I'm driving it. A good friend of mine has driven it to hell & back trying to figure out what the deal is but it never happens when he is driving. Is there ANYbody here that has experienced anything like this with their Wrangler? Or anyone who can tell me what I need to check?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This sounds related to engine timing or ignition. I'd check the distributor tightness and its contents. I did have a similar experience with a '91 6 cylinder Jeep---it was a bad distributor.
  • kelly01kelly01 Member Posts: 2
    What about the master cylinder? Could that be it? A friend of mine mentioned to check that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh, I guess he means that if the power brake booster is leaking brake fluid into the engine's combustion chamber? A long shot, but possible...but this would be easy to diagnose because you would be losing brake fluid rapidly and also the misfire would probably only occur as you step on the brake.

    These kinds of issues are not easily diagnosed but ARE diagnosable. You need to find a technician who goes about it methodically, like Sherlock Holmes..."well, it's not this so we go on to that". It's called a "diagnostic tree".

    Having someone esle guessing with YOUR checkbook is no fun.

    I think your engine is "pinging" and that often means a timing issue, or overheating, or really rotten gasoline.
  • newjack1newjack1 Member Posts: 10
    I had an 89 Wrangler years ago and it leaked from the dash down both sides after heavy rains. I thought it was just that jeep. I recently bought a 90 Wrangler, the same problem exists. It just stormed and I looked behind the dash before I pulled off, it was dry. As I drove I heard the water sloshing and as I turned the corner it came pouring out on my feet. I stopped and looked behind the dash, it was wet. The water must be pooling in the windshield frame. As far as I can see there are two port holes in the middle of the bottom of the frame. I assume water is flowing out of there. How it is getting in the windshield frame is beyond me.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The '90 has the same windshield as the '89 so it's not suprising really.

    The water normally gets in under the windshield frame. There's a rubber gasket under the frame that compresses and rots with age. The frame itself will often rust too. The gasket is available and isn't expensive. The hardest part will be persuading the windshield hinges to allow the frame to fold forward. Lots of PB Blaster and patience usually do the trick.
  • saharatjsaharatj Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 6 cylinders, manual transmission, with 47000 miles. lately, I have been hearing a rattling noise seems to be coming from the front wheels. I hear the noise with the windows down at speeds 15-20 mph. however, this rattling noise will disappear when I slightly apply the brakes. I removed both of my front tires and check the brakes for any loose items. Everything looked normal and the brakes are 75% life. I would appreciate any help with this issue. Thanks.
  • newjack1newjack1 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks. I have a buddy with an 89 and he is about to replace that gasket. I figured I would see how it worked for him. I can push down on my gasket and see the rust coloring on the rubber. So is the bottom of the frame rusted open to allow that much water in? Should the frame be replaced?
  • alawhaalawha Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Wrangler, 4cyl, stick shift. I bought it new and 9 years later I STILL LOVE IT! It came with a factory installed anti-theft device, to which the car won't start unless you disengage the system with the special key, or press the kill button under the steering column. My Jeep wouldn't start after it was off for only 10 minutes. The symptoms were the same as if I hadn't tripped the anti-theft device. Does anyone know if this anti-theft device could cause the Jeep from starting? Battery is good, lights don't dim when I try to start it. HELP! I can't handle another day of driving a ridiculous Chevy Aveo rental car!! :cry:
  • mdfinn2mdfinn2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Wrangler Sport Auto. I have had this Jeep for about 2 years now and I love it. The problem is, it seems everytime it gets hot out and I drive it in excess of 65mph the check engine light starts blinking and the jeep "clicks over" and the engine starts to rattle and the speed decreases. When I pull over and stop my jeep the check engine light is still blinking and the engine is shaking and idling very weird. If I turn off the engine and restart it, it seems fine but the problem starts up again once I hit that certain speed or accelerate too quickly. I think I read on this forum a few months ago that this could happen because of the fuel line. I would appreciate any help with this problem. Also, while idling at a light my jeep sometimes stalls out. Thanks
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    had an 89 Wrangler years ago and it leaked from the dash down both sides after heavy rains. I thought it was just that jeep. I recently bought a 90 Wrangler

    The true solution, of course, is to buy a 91 Wrangler.

    Seriously, if it's coming in under the dash, have you checked to see if the small grill between the windshield and hood is draining correctly? My YJ leaked like crazy until I realized that small box was clogged and draining through the floorboard vents since that feeds the HVAC.
  • gpmooregpmoore Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem. I just bought this car used with 83k miles. Any help would be appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    In both case you should have a trouble code stored in the computer. Autozone, among others, will read it for free. That will be a starting point in diagnosing the problem.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    While I had the instrument cluster out to -once again- tackle the "dead gauge fix", I noticed that the left harness plug had slipped out of the blue plastic holder. The two side latches on the harness plug are broken so it won't stay snapped into the holder. Is it possible to buy just the harness plug?
    Thanks!
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