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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • ozark200ozark200 Posts: 5
    Mac 24 You were right on in addressing this problem. Took Jeep to 2nd 5 Star Jeep dealer and aimed them at electrical solution. They found it in a corroded pick-up coil. Thank you a bunch.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    A misfire can also be caused by a faulty injector, oil contamination of the plug, worn rings, bad valve, coolant leak, gasket leak, worn cam lobe, bad cam follower, to name a few.

    On multiple cylinders it could also be a fuel problem (pump, filter, regulator, etc.), coil, either CPS, and so on.

    Reading and identifying the code is just the beginning of diagnosis.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Nice to know that my wild guesses are occasionally on target! :blush:

    Glad you got it fixed.
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    My first Jeep (a used '94) was from the New Jersey coast and there was pretty significant rust on it, even though it was ony 3 years old. So yes, they can pick up a lot of rust in a salty environment. It's a used car and obviously you have concerns about it just looking at it, so don't buy it.

    My '98 has some light surface corrosion on the underside but has lived most of its life on the West Coast so it's pretty minimal.
  • aubre81aubre81 Posts: 1
    I have the same promblem with my 01 wrangler, except I have pressure when I first hit the brakes and then the second time my brakes hit the floor. Did you find a solution to your problem and if so please help.
  • mvickmvick Posts: 2
    Thanks Mac, I have a friend who is really good with the diagnosing part. I will have have a look at all of these areas.
  • kelly01kelly01 Posts: 2
    I have a 4-cyl 1991 Wrangler (manual trans.). Considering the age of it, it handles considerably well.

    HOWEVER, lately...I've been having a problem with it. I'm going to explain what it is doing the BEST I can.

    It doesn't do this ALL the time but...when I am in 3rd or 4th feels like it is about to lose power at times. It will start making this popcorn sound and sounds as if it's coming from under the drivers seat. If it does this while in 4th gear, it will stop if I change to a lower gear. But then again, after awhile...while in 3rd gear, it will start up again.

    I've talked to soooooo many different people about this and nobody has a clue what I'm talking about. And of course, it ONLY happens when I'm driving it. A good friend of mine has driven it to hell & back trying to figure out what the deal is but it never happens when he is driving. Is there ANYbody here that has experienced anything like this with their Wrangler? Or anyone who can tell me what I need to check?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    This sounds related to engine timing or ignition. I'd check the distributor tightness and its contents. I did have a similar experience with a '91 6 cylinder Jeep---it was a bad distributor.

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  • kelly01kelly01 Posts: 2
    What about the master cylinder? Could that be it? A friend of mine mentioned to check that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    Oh, I guess he means that if the power brake booster is leaking brake fluid into the engine's combustion chamber? A long shot, but possible...but this would be easy to diagnose because you would be losing brake fluid rapidly and also the misfire would probably only occur as you step on the brake.

    These kinds of issues are not easily diagnosed but ARE diagnosable. You need to find a technician who goes about it methodically, like Sherlock Holmes..."well, it's not this so we go on to that". It's called a "diagnostic tree".

    Having someone esle guessing with YOUR checkbook is no fun.

    I think your engine is "pinging" and that often means a timing issue, or overheating, or really rotten gasoline.

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  • newjack1newjack1 Posts: 10
    I had an 89 Wrangler years ago and it leaked from the dash down both sides after heavy rains. I thought it was just that jeep. I recently bought a 90 Wrangler, the same problem exists. It just stormed and I looked behind the dash before I pulled off, it was dry. As I drove I heard the water sloshing and as I turned the corner it came pouring out on my feet. I stopped and looked behind the dash, it was wet. The water must be pooling in the windshield frame. As far as I can see there are two port holes in the middle of the bottom of the frame. I assume water is flowing out of there. How it is getting in the windshield frame is beyond me.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The '90 has the same windshield as the '89 so it's not suprising really.

    The water normally gets in under the windshield frame. There's a rubber gasket under the frame that compresses and rots with age. The frame itself will often rust too. The gasket is available and isn't expensive. The hardest part will be persuading the windshield hinges to allow the frame to fold forward. Lots of PB Blaster and patience usually do the trick.
  • saharatjsaharatj Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, 6 cylinders, manual transmission, with 47000 miles. lately, I have been hearing a rattling noise seems to be coming from the front wheels. I hear the noise with the windows down at speeds 15-20 mph. however, this rattling noise will disappear when I slightly apply the brakes. I removed both of my front tires and check the brakes for any loose items. Everything looked normal and the brakes are 75% life. I would appreciate any help with this issue. Thanks.
  • newjack1newjack1 Posts: 10
    Thanks. I have a buddy with an 89 and he is about to replace that gasket. I figured I would see how it worked for him. I can push down on my gasket and see the rust coloring on the rubber. So is the bottom of the frame rusted open to allow that much water in? Should the frame be replaced?
  • alawhaalawha Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Wrangler, 4cyl, stick shift. I bought it new and 9 years later I STILL LOVE IT! It came with a factory installed anti-theft device, to which the car won't start unless you disengage the system with the special key, or press the kill button under the steering column. My Jeep wouldn't start after it was off for only 10 minutes. The symptoms were the same as if I hadn't tripped the anti-theft device. Does anyone know if this anti-theft device could cause the Jeep from starting? Battery is good, lights don't dim when I try to start it. HELP! I can't handle another day of driving a ridiculous Chevy Aveo rental car!! :cry:
  • mdfinn2mdfinn2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Wrangler Sport Auto. I have had this Jeep for about 2 years now and I love it. The problem is, it seems everytime it gets hot out and I drive it in excess of 65mph the check engine light starts blinking and the jeep "clicks over" and the engine starts to rattle and the speed decreases. When I pull over and stop my jeep the check engine light is still blinking and the engine is shaking and idling very weird. If I turn off the engine and restart it, it seems fine but the problem starts up again once I hit that certain speed or accelerate too quickly. I think I read on this forum a few months ago that this could happen because of the fuel line. I would appreciate any help with this problem. Also, while idling at a light my jeep sometimes stalls out. Thanks
  • goducks1goducks1 Posts: 432
    had an 89 Wrangler years ago and it leaked from the dash down both sides after heavy rains. I thought it was just that jeep. I recently bought a 90 Wrangler

    The true solution, of course, is to buy a 91 Wrangler.

    Seriously, if it's coming in under the dash, have you checked to see if the small grill between the windshield and hood is draining correctly? My YJ leaked like crazy until I realized that small box was clogged and draining through the floorboard vents since that feeds the HVAC.
  • gpmooregpmoore Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem. I just bought this car used with 83k miles. Any help would be appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    In both case you should have a trouble code stored in the computer. Autozone, among others, will read it for free. That will be a starting point in diagnosing the problem.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    While I had the instrument cluster out to -once again- tackle the "dead gauge fix", I noticed that the left harness plug had slipped out of the blue plastic holder. The two side latches on the harness plug are broken so it won't stay snapped into the holder. Is it possible to buy just the harness plug?
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Posts: 168
    I have new one, transmission-related on my 2004. After fully warming up (in traffic or on the highway), and pulling up to a stop (usually a stop sign or traffic congestion where you pull up really slowly) the auto-tranny will shift down into first or disconnect the torque converter, whatever it's doing, with a really violent thump. Engine RPM dips and then comes back to idle (600). It feels similar to driving a stick and not releasing the clutch when stopping until the very last moment. Fluid level seems ok, only 25k miles on it. Not a huge problem, but am I about to lose the transmission?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I don't see it as a separate item in my parts guide. However, in the TSB which covers the 'official' fix for that problem, a cluster connector patch harness is used, and a part number is given. I've never seen one, but it sounds like it would be the relevant part. I'll print the complete TSB below. Personally though, I'd try to fix the existing socket in position with epoxy. The plate it's fixed to won't move, and once it's engaged with the pins on the back of the instrument panel it can't go anywhere.

    Funnily enough, I just did mine two days ago for the first time (it's a '99). Don't forget to use dielectric grease on each of the socket's pin location holes.

    "TSB NUMBER: 08-15-99

    GROUP: Electrical

    DATE: May 21, 1999


    Erratic, Intermittent Cluster Operation/Intermittent Air Bag Warning light.

    This bulletin involves installing a repair harness containing a revised instrument cluster connector.


    1998 - 1999 (TJ) Wrangler
    1998 - 1999 (XJ) Cherokee

    Some vehicles may exhibit an intermittent illumination of the air bag warning light or an intermittent tachometer or speedometer drop out. An Airbag Electronic Control Module (AECM) fault code - "No Cluster CCD BUS" message will be present.

    Using the DRB III(R), read and record all active and stored fault codes in the AECM. This condition is caused by minor oxidation of the BUS circuit terminals at the instrument cluster connector. Electrical terminals will show signs of oxidation, which will appear as darkened lines or marks on the cluster male terminals. These often appear as gray or black marks rather than the appearance of oxidation or corrosion usually associated with higher current carrying circuits. This condition will set a "NO CLUSTER CCD BUS" message. The fault code will usually be stored and not active. THIS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WILL NOT ADDRESS FUEL OR OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ISSUES. If this fault code is present, either active or stored perform the Repair Procedure.


    1 05016261AA Cluster Connector Patch Harness
    1 04856975 Electric Contact Cleaner
    2 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing
    POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.


    Labor Operation No: 08-90-90-91 0.6 Hrs. "
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Fluid level seems ok, only 25k miles on it. Not a huge problem, but am I about to lose the transmission?

    I doubt you're about to lose the transmission, but it really only needs to keep going until you can drop it off at the dealer to get it taken care of under warranty. ;)

    It rather sounds as though it could be connected with the torque converter locking up when it's not supposed to. Whether it a fault with the t/c itself, or whether it's being commanded to lock at the wrong time I don't know. You probably can't fix it yourself, so off to the dealers with you :)
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Thanks, Mac! I think I might go the epoxy route.
  • hey guys,
    I was wondering is anyone had encountered this problem before.My 97 Tj will not hit over 85 mph. Thats it!I have asked other Tj owners and they say theirs hit 100mph.I am wondering if it could be the catalytic converter or the tires.I have a 2.5L with 31 size tires.Also,when i am cruising a certain speed(like 65 and im in 5th gear)I have to down shift to maintain in a small hill.the pedal to the metal and i see no advancement.Your expertise will be appreciated.

    You can will help me achieve the ultimate off roading machine.Thanx
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I'm amazed that you can reach 85mph with a 2.5L and 31" tires! You need to regear the axles to improve your performance, and though I doubt you'll increase the top speed you will improve acceleration and remove the need to downshift in fifth.

    If you really need to make a Wrangler go 100mph, then buy a 4.0 or install a supercharger.
  • francosfrancos Posts: 3
    :lemon: I purchased a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport. It has a 6" lift with 35" AT BFG's. When accelerating the jeep starts vibrating at 25 to 40 mph. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the tires and once they heat up it goes away. But, I had the tires checked out and they said it wasn't the tires. A couple of other mechanics told me it was something in the transmission. The dealer changed the U-Joints, the drive shaft and the Torque converter. And the problem still exists. The dealer tells me that the drive shaft is on a real bad angle and that is what is causing the vibration and is blaming the lift. I don't believe it. I think the transmission is shot. Since they changed the torque converter, there is another rattling noise coming from the transmission. It sounds to me like a lose nut on the heat shield. When I look under there, I noticed they stripped a bolt for the bellhousing cover. Is there anyone that could give me any insight on what the problem could be with the vibration/rattling noise?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I purchased a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport. It has a 6" lift with 35" AT BFG's. When accelerating the jeep starts vibrating at 25 to 40 mph..............The dealer tells me that the drive shaft is on a real bad angle and that is what is causing the vibration and is blaming the lift. I don't believe it.

    Well maybe you don't believe it but I'd say he has a good chance of being correct. I'm sure you have stripped bolts and rattling parts, but they're most likely caused by the vibration and aren't the cause of it!

    A six inch lift is difficult and/or expensive to set up for satisfactory use at highway speeds, and I've never heard anyone who says it's perfect under all conditions. A six inch lift with 35" tires is usually done to enable better offroad performance and it's not realistic to expect it to perform well on the highway too

    There are things that can be done to place less strain on the propeller shafts but you'd have to explain what lift components you have on your Jeep first. Do remember that a six inch lift is an 'extreme' lift.
  • francosfrancos Posts: 3
    thank you ... this is my first lifted jeep i have owned mostly ford p/u's with same size lifts and tires... I would realy like to leave the jeep the way it is but all i can tell you is that it has a pro comp lift... ... what i do see under is new coil springs, shocks and how can i say this... i guess i'll put it this way... looks to me like they welded some sort of tubes from the frame to the axles just below the shock mounts... The lift is a Pro comp explorer if that helps... Is there a way to lower the angle of the tranny or something to take some pressure off the shaft and tranny.... thank you so much for you help... If you need to know anything else let me know where to look ... Because Jeeps to me is a whole new ball game Thanks again
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I'm a bit puzzled here because although there is a Pro Comp Explorer 6" Suspension Lift which requires spring seats to be welded to the axles, the kit is for a YJ and it's to convert the suspension from leaves to coils. The YJ ended in '96, so that rules out your '99 Sport which is TJ.

    Pro Comp Explorer make a TJ lift, but the highest is a 4" and it doesn't require anything to welded to the axles. From what I can see, neither kit makes provision for either raising the motor mounts or lowering the transfer case. Neither do they include, though they do recommend, a transfer case tailshaft conversion kit (commonly called a Slip Yoke Eliminator or SYE kit) which will allow the use of a rear propshaft with a double cardan joint (often incorrectly called a CV joint) like that fitted to the front.

    It's also possible that either axle may need to be rotated upward, though this is not ideal. Without knowing exactly has or hasn't been done to your particular Jeep it's hard to take it much further. Also remember that every Jeep seem to respond a little differently to suspension modifications.

    Probably the first thing to establish is whether you really have a '99 TJ, or some kind of converted YJ.
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