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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Martin,
    I have new one, transmission-related on my 2004. After fully warming up (in traffic or on the highway), and pulling up to a stop (usually a stop sign or traffic congestion where you pull up really slowly) the auto-tranny will shift down into first or disconnect the torque converter, whatever it's doing, with a really violent thump. Engine RPM dips and then comes back to idle (600). It feels similar to driving a stick and not releasing the clutch when stopping until the very last moment. Fluid level seems ok, only 25k miles on it. Not a huge problem, but am I about to lose the transmission?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I don't see it as a separate item in my parts guide. However, in the TSB which covers the 'official' fix for that problem, a cluster connector patch harness is used, and a part number is given. I've never seen one, but it sounds like it would be the relevant part. I'll print the complete TSB below. Personally though, I'd try to fix the existing socket in position with epoxy. The plate it's fixed to won't move, and once it's engaged with the pins on the back of the instrument panel it can't go anywhere.

    Funnily enough, I just did mine two days ago for the first time (it's a '99). Don't forget to use dielectric grease on each of the socket's pin location holes.

    "TSB NUMBER: 08-15-99

    GROUP: Electrical

    DATE: May 21, 1999

    THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER 08-20-98 REV. A, DATED OCTOBER 2, 1998, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE BOUND TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN BOOK, PUBLICATION NUMBER 81-699-99003. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION TO THE PROCEDURE.

    SUBJECT:
    Erratic, Intermittent Cluster Operation/Intermittent Air Bag Warning light.

    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves installing a repair harness containing a revised instrument cluster connector.

    MODELS:

    1998 - 1999 (TJ) Wrangler
    1998 - 1999 (XJ) Cherokee

    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    Some vehicles may exhibit an intermittent illumination of the air bag warning light or an intermittent tachometer or speedometer drop out. An Airbag Electronic Control Module (AECM) fault code - "No Cluster CCD BUS" message will be present.

    DIAGNOSIS:
    Using the DRB III(R), read and record all active and stored fault codes in the AECM. This condition is caused by minor oxidation of the BUS circuit terminals at the instrument cluster connector. Electrical terminals will show signs of oxidation, which will appear as darkened lines or marks on the cluster male terminals. These often appear as gray or black marks rather than the appearance of oxidation or corrosion usually associated with higher current carrying circuits. This condition will set a "NO CLUSTER CCD BUS" message. The fault code will usually be stored and not active. THIS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WILL NOT ADDRESS FUEL OR OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ISSUES. If this fault code is present, either active or stored perform the Repair Procedure.

    PARTS REQUIRED:

    1 05016261AA Cluster Connector Patch Harness
    1 04856975 Electric Contact Cleaner
    2 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing
    POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

    TIME ALLOWANCE:

    Labor Operation No: 08-90-90-91 0.6 Hrs. "
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Fluid level seems ok, only 25k miles on it. Not a huge problem, but am I about to lose the transmission?

    I doubt you're about to lose the transmission, but it really only needs to keep going until you can drop it off at the dealer to get it taken care of under warranty. ;)

    It rather sounds as though it could be connected with the torque converter locking up when it's not supposed to. Whether it a fault with the t/c itself, or whether it's being commanded to lock at the wrong time I don't know. You probably can't fix it yourself, so off to the dealers with you :)
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Thanks, Mac! I think I might go the epoxy route.
  • meswbesttjmeswbesttj Member Posts: 1
    hey guys,
    I was wondering is anyone had encountered this problem before.My 97 Tj will not hit over 85 mph. Thats it!I have asked other Tj owners and they say theirs hit 100mph.I am wondering if it could be the catalytic converter or the tires.I have a 2.5L with 31 size tires.Also,when i am cruising a certain speed(like 65 and im in 5th gear)I have to down shift to maintain in a small hill.the pedal to the metal and i see no advancement.Your expertise will be appreciated.

    You can will help me achieve the ultimate off roading machine.Thanx
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm amazed that you can reach 85mph with a 2.5L and 31" tires! You need to regear the axles to improve your performance, and though I doubt you'll increase the top speed you will improve acceleration and remove the need to downshift in fifth.

    If you really need to make a Wrangler go 100mph, then buy a 4.0 or install a supercharger.
  • francosfrancos Member Posts: 3
    :lemon: I purchased a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport. It has a 6" lift with 35" AT BFG's. When accelerating the jeep starts vibrating at 25 to 40 mph. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the tires and once they heat up it goes away. But, I had the tires checked out and they said it wasn't the tires. A couple of other mechanics told me it was something in the transmission. The dealer changed the U-Joints, the drive shaft and the Torque converter. And the problem still exists. The dealer tells me that the drive shaft is on a real bad angle and that is what is causing the vibration and is blaming the lift. I don't believe it. I think the transmission is shot. Since they changed the torque converter, there is another rattling noise coming from the transmission. It sounds to me like a lose nut on the heat shield. When I look under there, I noticed they stripped a bolt for the bellhousing cover. Is there anyone that could give me any insight on what the problem could be with the vibration/rattling noise?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I purchased a 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport. It has a 6" lift with 35" AT BFG's. When accelerating the jeep starts vibrating at 25 to 40 mph..............The dealer tells me that the drive shaft is on a real bad angle and that is what is causing the vibration and is blaming the lift. I don't believe it.

    Well maybe you don't believe it but I'd say he has a good chance of being correct. I'm sure you have stripped bolts and rattling parts, but they're most likely caused by the vibration and aren't the cause of it!

    A six inch lift is difficult and/or expensive to set up for satisfactory use at highway speeds, and I've never heard anyone who says it's perfect under all conditions. A six inch lift with 35" tires is usually done to enable better offroad performance and it's not realistic to expect it to perform well on the highway too

    There are things that can be done to place less strain on the propeller shafts but you'd have to explain what lift components you have on your Jeep first. Do remember that a six inch lift is an 'extreme' lift.
  • francosfrancos Member Posts: 3
    thank you ... this is my first lifted jeep i have owned mostly ford p/u's with same size lifts and tires... I would realy like to leave the jeep the way it is but all i can tell you is that it has a pro comp lift... ... what i do see under is new coil springs, shocks and how can i say this... i guess i'll put it this way... looks to me like they welded some sort of tubes from the frame to the axles just below the shock mounts... The lift is a Pro comp explorer if that helps... Is there a way to lower the angle of the tranny or something to take some pressure off the shaft and tranny.... thank you so much for you help... If you need to know anything else let me know where to look ... Because Jeeps to me is a whole new ball game Thanks again
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I'm a bit puzzled here because although there is a Pro Comp Explorer 6" Suspension Lift which requires spring seats to be welded to the axles, the kit is for a YJ and it's to convert the suspension from leaves to coils. The YJ ended in '96, so that rules out your '99 Sport which is TJ.

    Pro Comp Explorer make a TJ lift, but the highest is a 4" and it doesn't require anything to welded to the axles. From what I can see, neither kit makes provision for either raising the motor mounts or lowering the transfer case. Neither do they include, though they do recommend, a transfer case tailshaft conversion kit (commonly called a Slip Yoke Eliminator or SYE kit) which will allow the use of a rear propshaft with a double cardan joint (often incorrectly called a CV joint) like that fitted to the front.

    It's also possible that either axle may need to be rotated upward, though this is not ideal. Without knowing exactly has or hasn't been done to your particular Jeep it's hard to take it much further. Also remember that every Jeep seem to respond a little differently to suspension modifications.

    Probably the first thing to establish is whether you really have a '99 TJ, or some kind of converted YJ.
  • francosfrancos Member Posts: 3
    hello again: iwent outside to look at the lift .. there are brackets on the under side of the frame to me they look stock but i dont know what comes on a Jeep... thats why i thought that was part of the lift kit. and unless someone messed with the serial no# then it should be a 99 jeep tj... ( Hopefully) lol . now if it is a four inch lift will 35" tires fit on that?... i have a quadratec catalog and from what i can get out of it 35's only fit on a 6" lift... See i "really dont know. Please say that 35's can fit on a four inch lift... If they do then i have a 99 Jeep TJ like you said ... if not someone at the dealer is goona hear a rash of "POOP" from me.if everything is what you say it should be what would you recommend doing. Maybe putting a smaller tire like 33" or am i just fubared. Something tells me i should of just stuck with the Ford trucks ... i never had any problems with them and i went up to a total of 9" lifts with 38's. thank you so much for repleying again.. i hope to hear from you soon ...also the rattling sound i'm guessing was when they changed the torque conv... they stripped one of the nuts on the metal sheild that covers the bell housing...So when i was driving and appling gas that plate might of been vibrating really bad and the regular vibrating might of just made it worst, again im guessing at that what do you think? The tranny shifts fine nothing is binding up or getting stuck... I wish i knew more about Jeeps than i do... i really like this thing and want to keep it so you see i need to fix the problem or im never truely gonna enjoy it.... Franco
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You can fit 35's with a 4" lift and they'll be ok on the street but you can expect contact when the suspension articulates offroad.

    You can't really compare a Wrangler to a Ford pickup. The Ford has a totally different suspension and a much longer wheelbase.

    The best advice I can give you is to find a specialist 4x4 shop rather than a Jeep dealer, explain the vibration problem you're having, then have them put your Wrangler on a lift and explain to you what you have and don't have under there. Once you know the details of your lift you're then in a position to decide what alterations you may need to make.
  • bamafeverbamafever Member Posts: 4
    i have a 88 jeep wrangler-it will crank-and stay started for about 5 min or less--i have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump--can't figure what the problem is--any suggestion anyone--the jeep was down for about 2 months-due to transmission problem--it ran for a week-now this-
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It could either be an electrical component breaking down, or fuel related. You need to check if you have fuel in the carb when it stops, and whether or not you have a spark at plugs. You could also check on the quality of the fuel in your tank. Water in ther bottom of the float bowl of the carb would be a good clue.
  • bamafeverbamafever Member Posts: 4
    i have removed the injector frrom carb and there was gas there. my carb does not have a bowl.
    i have not been able to find out if i have a spark any where as of yet.
    do you this that my coil could caused these problems.
    the fuel in tank is fresh since i just replaced the fuel pump and filter on friday.
    i had a reddish spark at the plug it died and stop at the same time.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The spark should be a strong blue white color. Assuming that the plugs, wires, rotor and cap are all good then yes, the next suspect item would be the coil.
  • bamafeverbamafever Member Posts: 4
    hello again
    thanks for the help but i still have that problem
    i have good blue sparks now but when it dies i have gas present at carb.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Pull a couple of plugs after it dies. If they're wet with gas then either it flooded or lost spark. If they're dry then you lost gas to the cylinders.

    Check that the fuel tank is vented ok (leave the cap off while you test run the engine), and that any cold start enrichment device (choke) is disengaging after the engine starts to run.

    If you have the correct fuel/air mix, plus compression, plus a spark at the right time, it will run.
  • saharatjsaharatj Member Posts: 2
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Can anyone give saharatj any suggestions/opinions regarding his noise problem?

    Thanks!

    tidester, host
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    There are little clips that are supposed to keep the brade pads from rattling in the calipers. Maybe yours are missing.
  • mss3mss3 Member Posts: 2
    I just experienced an electrical problem in my 2002 Jeep Wrangler. First as I was driving the AC stopped working, but the car continued to drive. When I arrived home I turned the car off, opened the gate and then could not start the car. All of the dash lights began flashing, the speedo jumped and the car would not start. It was as if it were posessed. If anybody has experienced this any help would be useful. I live in Italy and Jeep dealers here are not to be found.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    There are anti-rattle springs riveted to the rear of the disc pads, a claw shaped one on the piston side and a flat one on the fixed side. I guess they could have broken away, but it would be unusual for them all to fail at the same time.

    The calipers move on guides and bushings and they might have worn. You might also want to check for play in the wheel bearings. You really need to be 'hands on' to properly check this one out.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    What happened when you turned the key? Did the engine turn over but not fire, or was there a click but the engine didn't fire, or was there complete silence?
  • mss3mss3 Member Posts: 2
    The engine would not turn over an there was only a click. Other than the seat belt warning, and the "key-is-in the-ignition-and-the-door-is-open" warning there is not other sound. I moved some of the relays around and now it I get a rattle sound as if a relay is opening and closing rapidly. The Anti-lock brake relay felt warm after the car had sat for a day and I turn the ignition on for a while, but this may not mean anything.
  • releksreleks Member Posts: 1
    Hope I get some thought out responses to this,

    I have a 2000 Wrangler (Sahara) that I purchased brand new. I love this car & I never had any problems w/ it. A couple of days ago the check gauges light came on then it went out (immediately). It was due for some minor things so I bring it to where I usually do, they check it out fine.
    The next day the same check gauge light comes on w/ a drop in oil pressure. I just changed the oil but I check it again & I have plenty of oil. I bring it back & they find it only has 8-9 lbs of oil pressure. In addition they find metal shavings & pcs in the oil pan. I'm told I need a complete engine rebuild or a new engine.
    This engine only has 70,000 miles on it, has been maintained & not abused. Has anyone else had this or heard of this problem b :confuse: :confuse: before? Any thoughts suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
    Dave
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Unfortunately this sounds as though either one of the shell bearings broke up, or the oil pump failed (or both). I'd guess at the shell bearing.

    Three options are open to you. One, replace the engine, either new, rebuilt or secondhand. Two, rebuild your engine. Three, drop the oilpan and repair as necessary.

    If it was me, and I'd be doing the labor myself, I'd pick option three. It would involve dropping the pan, replacing the shell bearings on the rods and mains, replacing the oil pump, then reassembly. Obviously the crankshaft journals would be checked before going ahead, and there would be a small risk that there might be some debris remaining in the oil system.

    However, if I was paying for labor I may well end up choosing a new or reconditioned engine with a warranty (but that's just me).

    Good luck!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like either a high resistance connection somewhere, or a faulty relay, possibly the ASD (Automatic Shut Down relay).

    If it's a connection it could be anything from the battery itself, to maybe the PDC (Power Distribution Center). Unless it's something very obvious you'll need to get to work with a good multimeter and the electrical diagrams in the FSM (Factory Service Manual).
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I just had a new hard top put on my 06 wrangler. The Jeep is new but the top that came with it had a discoloration problem.
    They told me not to drive it for 24 hours because the back windows needed to dry first. The rear window is about an inch out at the bottom. I can put my little finger between the window and the rubber. Is there an ajustment I could make. I hate taking it back to the dealer but I might have to...its been very wet lately in Ct.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Sounds a little confusing. Why would the windows need to dry? When you say that the rear window is out, do you mean the rear glass (hatch) door is open at the bottom?
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    ...remind me never to accept a ride with meswbesttj

    This is a Jeep, not a Mustang. The ultimate off-roading machine was not designed to go that fast. With a short wheelbase, stiff springs, and the aerodynamics of a gas station, all it will take is one little rise in the road that you may not even see, and that TJ will become total carnage.

    Our Jeeps were designed to do amazing things at 5mph, and highways are just the long boring stretches between trails.
  • drewmeisterdrewmeister Member Posts: 168
    Appreciate the advice. I'm going in Monday to have them drive it.
  • kevaelkevael Member Posts: 2
    Tonight when I went for a drive, I could not get any air flow in the cab of my 1997 Wrangler. Regardless of the fan setting, no air flow was present. I tried adjusting the temperature and various vent settings. I do not have an owner's manual. I would like to start by replacing the appropriate fuse. Does anyone know which one is responsible for the fan or air flow? If it is not this simple, what is the next step. Thanks in advance.
  • bamafeverbamafever Member Posts: 4
    hi mac24
    i finally got my jeep to run
    it was the engine control unit ( computer )
    i replaced it and it runs great.
    but had replaced just about the entire electrical
    system.
    thanks for the info
    john & trisha
  • kev4kev4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a question but not sure if I really want to know the answer due to the actual solution to the problem. My 2000 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 makes a strange, with lack of better terms, gurgle sound when I shut it off. I constantly am looking underneath for any sign of a leak. It even gives a hint of antifreeze at times after I shut it off but once again no sign of any leaks. Fluid levels are good, but the sounds and smells make me really nervous. I would appreciate the advice and help if anyone has it. Thank you.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Glad to hear you got a good result in the end. :)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's probably either the refrigerant in the condenser (in front of the radiator), or the coolant returning to the radiator from the expansion tank.
  • ufmikeufmike Member Posts: 4
    I am trying to check my transmission fluid. There are two bolts near one another. Which one is the fluid level check and which one is the fluid fill? I have a 97 jeep wrangler sport. There are two bolts in question one is higher up than the other, and the higher one is a longer bolt. Also the owner's manual says to use 75W-90 GL5 transmission fluid. Would 80W-90 GL5 work O.K?
    -THANKS
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    What's carpeting doing in a Jeep Wrangler anyway? I don't blame Chrysler's attitude. The Wrangler was never designed to be used like a regular vehicle. It's best suited for what it's designed for....going through the mud, crossing creeks, hunting, climbing trails etc.
  • 98greenmachine98greenmachine Member Posts: 1
    My 98 Wrangler is doing the same thing and it is getting worse. I use to restart it within a few miles of the house, then it was fine. Now I often have to restart it more than one. No check engine light. Mr. Tire already cleaned the fuel system and replaced spark plugs/wires.

    Did you ever get your's fixed?
  • fnd222fnd222 Member Posts: 1
    trying to replace my girfriend wiper motor on a 94 wrangler. any help would be appricated.
  • jwwhitejwwhite Member Posts: 1
    I have a 04 Wrangler Sport and the emergency flashers, brake lights, and turn signals went out. I replaced all bulbs, replaced the fuse for the turn signals and replaced the flasher. I could not find any bad fuses. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong?
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    You have to drop the windshield to get to the wiper motor. The wiper motor is under the cowl seal in front of the drivers area.

    If you have a hard top it must be removed and the soft top must be disconnected from top of the windshield frame. I don't have a soft top so I am being assumptive as to how you remove it.

    Remove the bolts holding the roll bar to the windshield frame. Remove the bolts holding the bracket at each side of the dashboard where the windshield assembly hinges (on the inside of the Jeep). The windshield should now rotate toward the hood. Disconnect the old motor and replace with new. It may also be a good idea to replace the cowl seal while you are in there.

    Good luck!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's probably either a faulty multi function switch, or a bad connection to it from the Power Distribution Center (PDC).

    Have you exceeded the mileage limit of your warranty?
  • heidinjimheidinjim Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 wrangler 5 speed manual ax15 i need to know if the hole in the bell housing can be used for a crank angle sensor or if it is only to set the timing for the trans. :D
  • goducks1goducks1 Member Posts: 432
    When I start up my Jeep in the AM, there is a chirping noise coming from the timing belt. The belt looks fine and has ~30K on it. It does this primarily when the engine is cold or it's humid out. Should I just fiddle with the tensioner? How do you do that? It's a nut, right?
  • captrscaptrs Member Posts: 1
    The jeep's a 1991, and sometimes will stop running or not start at all, but sometimes it starts and runs fine. Before we purchased it, the previous owner had this problem and replaced the battery and fuel sending unit (and thought he fixed the problem). It will start when we use starting fluid, but once that burns, it dies. It is getting spark also.
    What would be the next place/part to look into to fix this problem? Any help would be great.

    Thanks
  • shelleyk721shelleyk721 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 7 month old Wrangler with 4,800 miles on it. I was driving home today and the check engine light came on! It's not driving any differently and all the guages are reading what they should. Any idea why this would happen?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Did you fill up with gas recently? A loose gas cap is the most frequent trigger for the check engine light, so double check that first.

    Steve, Host
  • anthony261anthony261 Member Posts: 1
    I wanted to change the shift knob on my jeep wrangler, but I can't get it off. Does it just unscrew or am I missing something? Please help!!
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