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Continued on towards work, by this time off the interstate, and it happened again but this time without the "jumps". Wouldn't start by popping the clutch, so I guided it into a parking lot. Turn the key and it started right up and I got to work.
This happened last year, and after much searching, my mechanic seemed to have corrected it. Took him a while, but he said it was some type of chip had overheated. Now the problem is back.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks for your reply. I think that I'll look around for a used compressor. Was this model (1997 4 cylinder) sold without A/C? I'm thinking that I could take the compressor off and use a fan belt off of a non-A/C model until I find a replacement.
Regards.
Regards.
me it was not engaged.
Two days ago I was going to the local Pizza place and another Jeep driver noticed my Jeep was still in Four Wheel Drive...he noticed the spinning under the front. No light was on indicating that I was still in four wheel drive. He told me to put it in reverse and drive backward. That "fixed" the problem. He said it had something to do with the automatic locking hubs. Any suggestions? If the light does not indicate 4 wheel drive I don't want to have to look underneath all the time.
You don't have automatic locking hubs on your Wrangler, and the thing spinning under the front is the front propeller shaft, which is what it's supposed to do. In 4WD it's locked to the back one in the transfer case so that they are both driven together. In 2WD it's disconnected from the rear and allowed to spin independently. It turns because it's driven by the front wheels.
If the 4WD light remains on after offroad use, you should back up a few yards while zig zagging at the same time. This will release any stress in the drivetrain and allow the front propshaft to disconnect within the transfer case.
tidester, host
i just happens out of nowhere. on the highway i can pop the clutch and it will usually start back up. now, today, it did it driving in the city but no soo lucky. i did let it set for a few minutes and it started back up but gave me the same trouble over the next mile.
i did notice the the tacometer will drop to 0 when it stalls, even when the jeep is rolling in gear dead. this makes me think its electrical.
i took the air cleaner off while it was dead and checked to see if it was getting fuel, it was.
so maybe its the coil? i thought it was a fuel problem but it feels like electrical and it was getting gas. i didnt check spark while it was down because i was solo and need someone to bump the ignition.
please let me know what you found out.
doug
However, if they work ok after the first hiccup or two I might be inclined to live with it.
Funny you should ask.
A couple of days later, it happened again. I finally got it started and made it to the Jeep Dealer. That was a week ago last Friday. I called last week and they admitted to me that they finally had the problem occur while they were test driving it, and they were now troubleshooting.
I just got off the phone with the shop and they said it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor that was bad. Did a google search and found that this is a relatively common problem for Wranglers and Cherokees. No necessarily expensive but annoying.
Hope you get yours fixed.
Jim
Sorry to hear that, but good luck though.
Be sure to feel around all the points the hose touches anything to check for problems. Mine was not visible but it was a pretty deep hole.
Hope this saves someone from getting stranded!
Chad
I don't know, but as a new tube is about $2 at the local auto parts store it's probably not worth pondering over.
Use the old stuff on a squeaky hinge or something. :shades:
Hey Mac! I'm not THAT cheap The problem was that all the auto parts stores were closed when I performed the latest surgery. If I have to tear into it again I will buy a new tube. In any case, the problem did not reappear this morning, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed...
Problems are, when parked in the sun (anywhere), the factory fog/road lites turn on by themselves, if I exercise fog lamp switch on the end of the turn signal stem the lites will go out. I am sure this switch/lever has to be replaced. Do It Yourself or best left to a dealer? are there other fixes? is this a known problem by Jeep or am I the only one? I checked Edmunds dealer and NHTSA recall info, nothing there.
Question 2. There is a leak similar to other complaints located on the front passenger side under the dash, carpet gets soaked, I will check what I have read (I read all postings) to see if I can fix it.
Last thing is for those in the know! The current (2007)Rubicon; is this a better vehicle than the Sahara? or are the differences so small the Sahara can run the larger tires and wheels, differential ratios, tranny, etc. OR JUST BUY A Rubicon?????? Nothing EXTREME NON RADICAL only upgrades to improve off road use.
Thank you for any info.
K. QUICK
If you get the water intrusion either during or after the use of the a/c, then it's probably a blocked condensate drain or it need a 90º elbow fitted to it. Otherwise, use a garden hose to find the leak.
The '07, Rubicon or otherwise, is a totally different vehicle to your '01. There are lots of mods you can easily make to your Sahara to improve its offroad performance beyond that of a comparable Rubicon.
The new seal should stop water passing under the frame, but it might cause water to be trapped inside it, if indeed water is entering as you suppose. You need to ascertain the entry point and seal it.
I first noticed the problem with the fog lights week before last (during the last So Cal heat wave) and then again last week I stopped by to pick up some cigars and when I came out the lights were on. It was parked in the sun. I will try the heat gun to verify.
The water problem I first noticed after I went through the local car wash a week after I brought it home from the dealer, this is a hard top so I did not think about water intrusion. I have since been in the rain (Those thunder storms in Big Bear)and found the same issue but not as bad. I will also check for a clogged hose just incase I have two problems.
Where would you suggest I look to compare the differences between the Rubicon and the 2001 Sahara and determine which items will improve my jeep. I am also looking at a little better performance which I plan on installing an aftermarket air filter system and a "catback exhaust" Not knowing the jeep that well I'm concerned about doing anything to radical or creating more problems than I solve. But information is gold and you my friend seem to be a great source.
Thanks again for your info. It helps a lot.
KQ
Before itemizing the differences in the Rubicon, which is specifically optimized for rockcrawling, it would be helpful to know what size tire you're currently running, the type of rear axle (D35 or D44) installed, and whether you have a factory limited slip differential (Trak Loc) fitted.
After fitting a catback exhaust and air filter system, the main difference will be in the sound the vehicle makes, rather than in its performance. The 4.0 I6 works well in standard configuration and any performance gain will be a minor one at the top end, i.e. wide open throttle and peak rpm.
I don't wish to dampen your enthusiasm for modifying your vehicle, but you might be surprised at what a standard Wrangler can do when correctly driven. It's hard to fully appreciate the benefits of any modifications when you haven't fully stretched the capabilities of the standard vehicle.
You can also buy a test kit that checks for combustion gases in the coolant.
Last of all, check for water in your oil.
The percentage of air that leaks from the cylinder is measured and the figures are compared from cylinder to cylinder. The big advantage is that you can see or hear any problems. Air leaking past a valve can be heard in the exhaust or intake. A leaking head gasket will be revealed by bubbles in the radiator. Worn rings and you'll hear air blowing from the dipstick tube or oil filler.
Any good mechanic should be able to perform this test, and it shouldn't take more than half an hour on a four cylinder engine.
As far as the windshield frame I will try your suggestion. Do you think if I took the roll bar off and attached it to the windshield frame first it would be easier to attach to the back bar? I have never removed them so I don't know or maybe if loosening the screws on the back that would allow me to bring the roll bars closer to the windshield. Thanks
Thanks, :confuse:
However, you have an '04, and unless the warranty has expired because you have exceeded the mileage I strongly suggest you let the dealer take care of it to avoid possible future warranty issues.
I have a 2001 Sahara 4WD Auto trans 4.0L.
I had requested info on the difference between the 2001 Sahara and the new Rubicon. You had asked about the tire size and the diferential size and type of use.
The tires are 31x10x50R15LT on stock 15 " jeep wheels.
The rear diferential is unknown but I would assume (bad thing to do) that it is a stock 3:07 without seeing a tag or marker. I checked the serial number but could not find any reference info on the web to cross with and since I purchased this as a used car I do not have the original window sticker to answer the question.
Yes you are correct, it is bascially the driver that makes the difference, but I firmly believe that the right tool for the right job. My goal is to have a sound set of basics for or framework before I find myself sitting somewhere asking "Why Me" I also am a firm beliver in "A machines reliability is directly proportional to the maintenance it receives" so with that in mind I am searching for assemblying the best foundation for multiple uses and reliability, and then taking care of it.
My off roading is in the San Bernardino mountains aprox 6000 to 10,000 feet elevation, some desert touring in Lucerne Valley and road driving to get back and forth.
The lay of the land is dirt roads, sometimes very rutted, dyr or muddy, some rocks and beautiful sceenery, the desert is mostly a bad place to be, but have I friends that ride in the dirt bike races and ralleys, I like to tag along for the fun of being there.
Thanks again for your input.
K. Quick
I'm in full agreement with you there, though bad luck can always play its part.
To get the full spec on the original build of your Sahara, just give the VIN to your local dealer and they can access it on their computer in a couple of minutes. You can also contact DC via Jeep.com and get a quick response.
The Rubicon is specifically built for rockcrawling. The transfer gearing is a lot lower than standard, which is great for climbing up and down steep rocky slopes but not so good for mud and trails. It has locking diffs, and when unlocked the rear is a limited slip (which you may or may not have). Tires are 1" larger than yours and it has rear disc brakes. The rear axle is a D44, the heavy duty option, which you also may or may not have. The front axle is also heavier duty.
For your type of offroading I don't see that the Rubicon would be any advantage. Neither vehicle is designed to offroad at speed. If you want to spend the money, then a Rubicon won't disadvantage you to any great extent, and of course just wanting one is a valid enough reason to buy one, even if you just drive it on the street.