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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

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Comments

  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    33" tires do not cause axle seals to leak...
    Just an excuse...
    Jeep/Chrysler?Dodge will not stand behind any of their junk...
    Get a repair manual and follow the directions replace them yourself or find a real mechanic...
    By the way if you do go off-road with you Jeep broken leaky things are just part of the game...
    Quit taking it to the dealer.
    They only want to work on street-wheelers anyway.
    I love my Jeep.
    I hate my Jeep Dealer.
  • jacknimblejacknimble Member Posts: 171
    My 2001 Wrangler with 4.0l auto tranny and 48k miles just did something weird - I had the accelerator floored and it would not upshift from 1st to 2nd gear, and I think it must have hit the rev limiter because the engine cut out a couple of times. I let off the gas and it went into gear, and driven normally, it shifts fine. Should I worry about this? It has always been reluctant to downshift to first gear in cold weather when coming to a full stop, but that is only while the engine is cold. After about 5 minutes, everything is fine.

    Of course, I rarely floor it, I inadvertenly pulled out into some traffic and needed to speed up quickly.
  • npatten11npatten11 Member Posts: 4
    how would i find out if i have a D35 or D44 axle? its a 2005 Jeep wrangler Sport with 26000 miles on it. They are also saying that my 4" skyjacker lift is putting the pinion at a steep angle causing that to leak too. I really have no mechanic training for the exception of changing a tire and changing my oil and oil filters. So any info would help a lot. Thanks for you replies.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Your automatic transmission is usually incredibly reliable unless it's abused. Usual methods of abuse are by heat, contaminating the fluid, or by neglect of service.

    Excessive heat is often caused by towing, aggressive driving especially offroad or on mountainous roads, and long periods in low range (high rpm/low road speed).

    Fluid contamination is usually water (driving too deep) or particulates, which can come from poor cleanliness when servicing or wear particles from worn internal components, which usually come from a lack of servicing or just general wear and tear due to high mileage.

    Servicing is very important, but also very easy. It consists of dropping the pan, draining the fluid, replacing the filter, adjusting the front and rear bands (very important and often overlooked), cleaning and replacing the pan, then filling with fresh fluid.

    Does any of the above apply?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If it's a D35 the differential housing will look like this:

    image

    and if it's a D44 it will look like this:

    image

    These of course are rear axles. Your front one will be a D30, and look like this:

    image

    With regard to your 4" Skyjacker lift, if no other mods have been done to correct the driveshaft angle, then they're most probably correct about the pinion housing leak. You can also expect premature failure of the universal joints.

    Few major modifications come without side effects, one of which is that they can put stress on related components, and another is that consequent warranty claims connected to the modified components can be denied.
  • saharastevesaharasteve Member Posts: 15
    Kelly,
    Success at last..... After changing the complete ignition system, crankshaft position sensor, catalytic converter, fuel pump etc. and getting NO codes, I decided to look into the exhaust manifold a little closer. In order to see if it was causing the O2 sensor to get false readings, I took the O2 out of the equation by unplugging it. While it won't be good for fuel economy, it did stop the problem. I am ordering a new manifold to stop the leak and will probably install a new O2 sensor. Don't know if it would be your same problem, but the problem seems to be resolved on mine. Let me know what you find on yours.
    Steve
  • npatten11npatten11 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for you help Mac24, is it a hard process to change axle seals myself? if so is there a specific reference or manual you could suggest for me?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's not hard, though it will require the use of a press. As I mentioned before, you should change the bearings at the same time. You can remove the axle half shafts yourself, then take them to a machine shop, a local mechanic, or even NAPA, to have the old bearings removed and new ones pressed on.

    The best reference is the Factory Service Manual (FSM) which costs about $100 (or two tanks of gas). Alternatively, you can have twelve months unlimited access to the FSM for $25 here at: AllData
  • jacknimblejacknimble Member Posts: 171
    No, not really. I did tow a really heavy generator one time (I'm guessing 3 or 4000lbs), but that was only for 20 miles or so, and I was very easy on it, and the Jeep was brand new.

    I've serviced the transmission, and although I'm not sure what the manual says, once under 49k should be enough.

    Wonder if the bands were adjusted?
  • kelly99kelly99 Member Posts: 7
    Hi, just posting to let you know the outcome of mine. This is going to be of NO help to you at all. I decided to sell the Jeep while it was still worth a good bit of money. I was trying to wait until it got fixed to sell it, but the Jeep dealership took six days to get the CAM sensor in. By then, I had found a car that I wanted, so the mechanic never did pick up the part, never did fix it, and I took it to the dealership to sell it today without it being fixed. Soooooo...obviously I don't know how it will run anymore.

    I can tell you it's a heartbreaker to give up your Jeep, but ours was going to start costing us more money than I wanted to get into with the roof leaking, potential rust issues, the cracked manifold that will eventually need to be fixed, etc.

    Anyway, best of luck with yours. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help with this.
  • tjbobtjbob Member Posts: 3
    Took the jeep to the 2nd dealership and they said it was normal engine noise caused by the fuel injectors. Does this sound right to anybody?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    While the injectors do make a tapping noise, I can't tell from here if that's actually what you're hearing.

    If the noise suddenly appeared, or if other Jeeps don't make it, then it's not normal and needs to be addressed.
  • jplymanjplyman Member Posts: 90
    Did my first modification this past weekend - a minor one albiet - I switched out rear bumpers on my '06 Unlimited. After I was done the tailgate will not close properly it seems to be mis-aligned now. It stops about an inch or 2 before close and needs a little umph to get it to close - I don't think I used the tailgate to help myself up - I did have it open for probably 5 or 6 hours while I was working in the yard between taking off the rear bumper and putting the new on - is the rear tailgate mis-aligned and if so how do I re-align.

    Thanks in advance.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Does you new bumper rub the bottom of the spare tire.
    You might need to shim the bumper down. This happens some times.
    Oil the hinges...10w/30 works ok.
    The trail gates on theses seem to need a little maint. now and then.
    The hinges on the TJ's are pretty sturdy but don't hang a tire bigger than a 10.50/31. If you hang anything bigger they will self distruct.
    Check the torx screws around the latch on the gate. Blue LockTite is a Jeepers best friend.
    Check the bolts on the hinges.
    As for realignment...probably not needed...
    If all else fails get an 8lb BFH (Big Farmers Hammer)
    Good luck.
  • jplymanjplyman Member Posts: 90
    Thanks - some times it is the simpliest things we over look - like the tire rubbing against the new bumper - :blush:

    Thanks - but hey the bumper does look good....
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    Cool,
    Enjoy.
  • kevco3kevco3 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 Wrangler and the speedometer/tach stops and starts operating at random. The airbag light comes on when this happens and the gauges freeze where they are. Any ideas on what is causing this.
    Thanks
    Kevin
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's a common problem and if you search here and on the Jeep Wrangler forum you'll find the TSB and full details.

    The short version is to remove the instrument housing and tweak the connector pins on by about 10º. Then inject a little dielectric grease into each of the corresponding sockets (about 20 in total). Re-assemble and the job's done!
  • lephnt5lephnt5 Member Posts: 5
    Hey everyone. First time asking for help but have already found this forum more than useful for my 98 Jeep TJ. I think I may be having the same problem as Kelly99 with my Wrangler lunging while I'm driving only now it's also stalling out frequently. I took it to a supposed Jeep guy at a local shop who couldn't even reproduce the symptoms I mentioned. I drove it there late in the day after commuting to and from work and then another time left it there over night so they could start it in the morning and see if they could reproduce the problems when the engine was cold. They said go to a Jeep dealership who said they ran every diagnostic they could and found nothing wrong, couldn't reproduce the problems, lunging and stalling, and said it just ran like an old car...and charged me for the tests. As I drove out of the dealership, it stalled out! Called me annoyed. I'd rather fix it if I could than get another vehicle right now. It gets regular oil changes and I'm great about regular maintenance. What's the deal?
  • saharastevesaharasteve Member Posts: 15
    I was having the identical problem that Kelly99 was having. I changed the complete igniton system, not the problem! No trouble codes from the computor so I could not narrow it down that way. Changed the exhaust, Crankshaft position sensor, and fuel pump. Still had the same problem. Then I remembered that Kelly99 mentioned the exhaust leak on her exhaust manifold and some of the comments about that affecting the O2 sensor. I unplugged the O2 and it stopped cutting out. I called 1Aautoparts from the web site and when I told them that I had a jeep, he immedatly knew that I was ordering a manifold.... said it was a very common problem that Chrysler won't address. Needless to say, I changed the Exhaust Manifold and the O2 for good measure and my 98 Sahara has been running like a top. Good luck and let me know if it works for you.
    Steve :shades:
  • lephnt5lephnt5 Member Posts: 5
    I will get right on it and let you know how it turns out. Thanks.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    My 99 did the same thing...
    Every time I drove it down a bumpy road...
    The problem was the connectors on the insterment panel.
    The panel is a fairly straight forward removal.
    Just take the dash cover off and pull the inst panel out.
    The connectors need to be shimmed up so that the make positive connection. A little diaelectric grease couldn't hurt too.
    Jeep knows about this.
    There was a recall and service bullet. Fat chance getting them to admit there is a problem as the recall only involved a small number of VIN.
    Love my JEEP...Hate JEEP service...
  • kevco3kevco3 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for helping answer my question. I did go back and read the previous post and # 223 by mac24 was very helpful. This in fact did save me a trip to and the expense of going to the dealer.
    Thanks again
    kc
  • newjack1newjack1 Member Posts: 10
    As I am driving, for lack of a better word, somae vapor, is wafting out of the vents. It used to stop, but now it is getting worse and not stoping. Given that the vapor appears after the car reaches operating temp I believe it is coolant evaporating due to a problem with the heater core. Assuming it is the heater core, is it difficult to replace the Heater Core? The Haynes manual does not look particularly detailed enough to the do the job. Has anyone else had this experience. Thanks

    90 Wrangler
  • newjack1newjack1 Member Posts: 10
    I was looking at replacing my stock Carb with this Weber 34 DGE model from Quadratec. Of course the ad says it increases HP up tp 18% and fuel economy 10-20% over stock. Has anyone had any experience with updating their stock Carb? I imagine this Weber has to be better than the stock carb I have now. Just wonder if it is worth the money considering the stock one seems to be working ok right now. Thanks

    90 Wrangler
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's quite doable, but not fun. It's fiddly, frustrating and time consuming, but there's no heavy lifting or special tools needed unless you have a/c, in which case you'll have to have the system refilled afterwards.

    I sometimes think that they start with the heater core, then build the rest of the vehicle around it! ;)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    If your present carb is running fine then count your blessings and don't mess with it. The only upgrade that really works is to go to fuel injection, but that's an expensive option. The Weber is only worthwhile if your original carb is shot.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I sometimes think that they start with the heater core, then build the rest of the vehicle around it!

    The first generation BMW sevens were far worse; you have to remove the console, the A pillar covers, and the dash pad. Nine hours. :surprise:
  • rockyprockyp Member Posts: 6
    My wife's Jeep stalled out when she pulled into a driveway this weekend and now the engine light has stayed on since then. I drove it in to work today with the light on, but nothing seems to be wrong. Any ideas are appreciated!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Having the 'check engine' light on means (among other things) that the computer is holding a code that will point you in the direction of the problem. Have it read at Autozone for free.
  • smurf6smurf6 Member Posts: 27
    I have had the check engine light go on twice in the last 2 months. The first time it was a wire from the powertrain control module to the ldp pumb rubbed through behind the dash against the frame and the second time it was a throttle position sensor that needed to be replaced. In the past it has also come on when the gas cap wasn't sealed properly. As Mac said, it can be any number of things. If it is the gas cap, I have found the light will usually go off after a few starts.
  • rebecca1880rebecca1880 Member Posts: 3
    I recently traded in my 2000 Jeep Wrangler (160,000 miles) for a new 2006 Jeep Wrangler. My new Jeep is a Sport model with an automatic transmission. Over the past 3 months I have experienced what seem to be "power surges" when decelerating. It occurs while I am driving and apply the brake to either slow down or stop. The engine revs and I feel the Jeep lunge forward as if the accelerator has been applied. It only lasts a split second and since I have my foot on the brake pedal, it doesn't lunge forward very much, perhaps a matter of inches if anything. It doesn't happen all the time, in fact it has only happened 3 times since I bought it 3 months ago. I have taken it to the dealer twice already and they can't diagnose the problem and therefore can't fix it. I want to get this resolved as soon as possible because it could cause an accident and the Jeep is still under warranty. Anyone ever experience this who can help me?
  • newjack1newjack1 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the heads up. I am not messing with it. I do have A/C and did not even think that would be affected. I knew it could not have been as simple as Haynes made it look. I also believe they start with the heater core and build the car around it.
  • newjack1newjack1 Member Posts: 10
    Yeah it is not shot fortunately, but it is not exactly great. Just wanted to kick the idea around. Wouldn't spend the money now when it drives pretty smooth.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I recently traded in my 2000 Jeep Wrangler (160,000 miles)............

    Always nice to hear of someone getting good use from their Jeep. Was it a reliable 160K?

    I have experienced what seem to be "power surges" when decelerating. It occurs while I am driving and apply the brake to either slow down or stop.........

    I can only give you straws to clutch at I'm afraid. The first (which you won't like, but do think about it) is that the main cause of this problem is just catching the throttle pedal with the edge of your shoe when you brake. We very often make the minimum of movement with our foot from the 'go' to 'stop' pedal, and it's usually only evident when you look at the wear pattern on the brake pedal.
    I know I'm at fault on this. :blush:

    The second reason is much less common and concerns a fault in the brake booster. What happens is that the booster uses, or allows to bleed off, more vacuum than is normal. This has the effect of mimicking an inlet manifold leak, a symptom of which is to increase engine revs. This can be a constant or intermittent fault.

    Sorry I can't be of more help, but it's especially difficult to diagnose an intermittent problem.

    Good luck!
  • lephnt5lephnt5 Member Posts: 5
    Interesting and sad that this is occuring in a new 2006 especially when, if you read back over the last year, numerous Jeep owners have reported lunging problems and all that they went through. The jeeps effected have gone way back to 98's (mine) and the Chrysler defect is still ignored by the manufacturer. Search lunging problems and stalling problems in jeeps and you will hear the cycle of problems. The fact that it's happened 3 times in 3 months is not an ONLY problem. That's way too often, too soon.
  • rebecca1880rebecca1880 Member Posts: 3
    Always nice to hear of someone getting good use from their Jeep. Was it a reliable 160K?
    I loved that Jeep and was very heartbroken to have to trade it in. I always kept up with the regular maintenance on it and it never had any major problems. The only reason I traded it in was because I drive so much I would have been over 200,000 within the next 6 months and it would only be a matter of time before I would have to start dumping money into keeping it running. I also figured it would be in my best interest to trade it now while it was still in great condition and could get a good amount for it and also get a great deal on the overstock 2006 Jeeps.
    Sorry I can't be of more help, but it's especially difficult to diagnose an intermittent problem.
    Thanks so much for your thoughts on this problem. (It is funny you should suggest it could be my foot because my brother said the same thing; however, I can tell when I "bump" the pedal and unfortunately that is not the cause of this issue.) I guess only time will tell if it will be on going problem or if it can be fixed. Thanks again.
  • rebecca1880rebecca1880 Member Posts: 3
    Interesting and sad that this is occurring in a new 2006 especially when, if you read back over the last year, numerous Jeep owners have reported lunging problems...

    Thanks for the information. I will definitely do some more research now that I know others have experienced similar issues. I sincerely hope that there is a way to fix this problem though... I spent a lot of money custom ordering this Jeep and expected it to be in perfect condition. I am concerned that it is having this safety issues already. Thanks again!
  • hoverhover Member Posts: 10
    That sucks .. I had the same problem, only with the front seals and the dealer did fix it. The difference ? The dealer installed the 4 in lift kit and the 33's..
  • mikeylitomikeylito Member Posts: 1
    (or CSI: Sahara)

    I have a '94 Wrangler Sahara, approx. 125K miles, 4.0 6cyl.
    I'm about to make a transcontinental trip and would like to diagnose and fix this problem before I head out.

    The Jeep starts up fine when cold and runs well on short distance runs. However, once it warms up, it tends to run for about 20 miles before it starts stalling out. Sometimes it does this while driving at speed; other times it does this when I take my foot off the gas preparing to stop.

    After stalling out, I wait about a minute or two and the Jeep starts right back up again.

    As I'm in the California desert, I should note that summertime temperatures tend to run in triple digits when the problem seems most prevalent. However, it has happened in the winter especially during wetter weather.

    Needless to say, I don't want to start cross-country and have the Sahara die out on me. Unfortunately, I'm not mechanically inclined; so, I'd like to have some ideas before a mechanic looks the vehicle over.

    Also, would I be wise to let a dealer perform the diagnosis -- not usually my first choice since they tend to diagnose problems other than the usual cause -- however, considering my situation, I might go that way.

    Secondly, can someone tell me what kind of fuse I need for the cigar lighter/radio in the same vehicle? Is the heater on the same fuse? (I would think not, but I'm dumb when it comes to this stuff.)

    Any suggestions would be helpful.
    Thanks!

    Ciao for now!
    Mike
  • jen4jrjen4jr Member Posts: 1
    My 97 Wrangler has a 3 speed auto trans 59,000 miles. It recently start either not shifting or slipping with a hard shift. When it doesn't shift I can lift my foot off the gas and it will shift fine. It seems to do it more when the vehicle is cold, but doesn't do it all the time. I had the fluid changed after this started and it didn't seem to help.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Even if I was with your Jeep I'd find it very difficult, not to mention time consuming, to find the cause of an intermittent fault that only occurs every twenty miles or so. If you want a WAG, check the fuel tank venting. If blocked, it could be causing enough of a vacuum after twenty miles that the fuel pump can't overcome it. The good news is that it restarts each time so you're unlikely to be stranded.

    Can't help with the fuse, but it's always worthwhile to have a workshop manual, which is sure to carry that information.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    If your jeep will run 20 miles and stalls for one or two minutes. It will only add 4 hours to a 41 hour trip from L.A. to New York City. This will give you time to see parts of the USA that you would miss in a Chevrolet. Enjoy the trip.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    That particular transmission is normally incredibly reliable. The main causes of problems are fluid contamination, overheating, and lack of servicing. Damage caused by any of the above is unlikely to be repairable without removing and rebuilding the transmission. Apart from servicing (fluid and filter replacement, and band adjustment), little else can be done with the transmission installed.

    My best advice is to take it to an independent transmission shop for diagnosis.
  • burntupburntup Member Posts: 64
    If your jeep will run 20 miles and stalls for one or two minutes. It will only add 4 hours to a 41 hour trip from L.A. to New York City. This will give you time to see parts of the USA that you would miss in a Chevrolet. Enjoy the trip.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I noticed that I can spin the back tires easily in the rain going from a stop making a right or left hand turn. I know the Jeep folks say one can use 4wd in the rain but I have heard owners say..NO. I am concerned about the coming New England winter. We have partly dry roads mixed with snow and black ice during the winter months. Do I have to keep taking it in and out of 4wd for the varying conditions? Its hard to tell when you will be coming up on black ice. We have black ice warnings but most of the road it dry so I guess I can't use 4wd. Rear wheel drive is worse than front wheel drive in these conditions IMHO. I have a new grand-daughter and I don't want to hit black ice and start spinning or hit a 50 yard patch on snow without using 4wd. although I know NO vehicle is that good on ice...it seems that 4wd would be better than rear wheel drive.

    Bottom line..can I routinely go back and forth between 2 and 4wd even though I may have to do it many times during a short trip or a long one? I read where one test driver said he used it when there was a LOT of water on the roads and it helped with no apparent damage. TIA
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .......although I know NO vehicle is that good on ice...it seems that 4wd would be better than rear wheel drive.

    On black ice there's virtually no traction with regular tires. No system of 4wd/awd/abs/traction control/stability control etc., will help when there's no traction. The only way it can be predictably driven is with chains or studded tires.

    .......can I routinely go back and forth between 2 and 4wd even though I may have to do it many times during a short trip or a long one?

    If you feel you must. The biggest practical problem with engaging 4wd on the highway is finding that you can't disengage it without stopping and reversing. This is because you've driven on a dry part of the road for too long. If you continue for too long, steering will become progressively more difficult and the entire drivetrain will be placed under excessive strain, though the damage is liable to be longterm rather than immediate.

    The real answer is that if you're driving in conditions that are liable to cause you to lose traction and spin out, you're going too fast........slow down!

    As for driving in snow, the Wrangler is quite capable but is hampered by its short wheelbase. It also handles differently between 2wd and 4wd, and also if it has an LSD or locker. The best way to get comfortable with its manners is to go and practice in a big empty snow covered parking lot.
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    I don't worry about driving on a fully snow covered road..I simply put it in 4wd and go. I have experience with that condition. I also have experience in off-roading...its the in-between stuff I was concerned with. While going too fast is definitely one problem when driving in adverse conditions..its not a problem I have. Say I am on the highway with a FWD car and hit some snow and I am traveling at a reasonable speed, I usually have no problems...not true with RWD vehicles. I am 57 yrs old and I remember the days of driving nothing but rear wheel drive vehicles. Without good snow tires, studs and or chains it was always difficult.
  • gezzymangezzyman Member Posts: 4
    :sick: ">link title I have a 97 wrangler 2.5 ltr. after driving between 3 & 3.5 miles it starts to miss and sputter, almost as if timing is slightly off. i had the codes read at AZ and they showed a miss fire and throttle position sensor error so i replaced the tps, map sensor, crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor but i still have the same problem.... can anyone help me???
  • absurajabsuraj Member Posts: 1
    Thanks..98' Sahara had same problem.
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